[Icantdive55]

With the groups blessing I would like to start a rebuild thread on my 65 FJ 40. I've had it for a few years now and my intentions are to keep it as stock as possible (read "as $$ allow"). All the inforamtion on this side of MUD is what I need. Pics to follow if the group lets in another 40.

Rod

[Cruiser_Nerd]

Maybe we'll have to get the section changed to 25's and early 40's. Be glad to have it as long as you understand we don't have the traffic of the other sections and we're mostly labelled as "purists" although I'm liking "old school" although I think it that means sometime in the 80's or 90's to some people................

[My wife said no FJ!]

I'm tuned in

[Dobster]

Happy to see it here - There seems to be quite a following. I'm in

[Icantdive55]

The purist or Old School is exactly why I want to post here. If I do something in my restoration that isn't stock I want to know and I think this is the best place to find out.

A little history if I may. My Dad purchased the familys first LC in 66 or 67. It was a used 45 wagon from Deal N Davy in Susanville CA. We had it until my brother talked him into trading it in for a 72 40. Ya I know, I would love to have that rig now. Anyone know where it's at? The plate was TOG 774. In 75 I bought a used 72 40 for myself,wrecked it around 82. Fixed it and then sold it for a 76 55 in the late 80's. Sold that and now I have my project. Wish I still had the 45 the 55 and my 65 but oh well.

This is how the project came home





Now I'll have to figure out how to upload more than 3 pics. I bought a star yesterday just for that reason.

I've already gained a wealth of information from some of you here and am looking foreward to the rest of the project.

[JohnnyC]

welcome to the "old world" ...or...is it "old purists"....no wait

ahhh never mind

can't wait to see the updates to your thread nice tailgate

[Icantdive55]

Current photos

I still have motor mounted to the frame. it's a great place to store it for now.



I put the tub on a Poor mans rotisserie for some body work. Besides having a 1/2" of bondo on one corner the PO drilled over 100 holes. 3 of them were to mount a 3 point Roll bar to the frame. It has the typical rust but I don't think it's too bad for a 65. The 3 holes have been filled and I'm working on the rust now.


Thanks for looking.

Rod

[Icantdive55]

Observant eyes mentioned to me in a different thread that my top (newer) didn't fit the windshield frame correctly. So I went and got the frame out of the shed and took some pics. It amazes me how observant some of you are! I will get a Paki Top to complete this rig so I may not do much to repair the current top. But just in case, ANY ideas on how to get a good fit would be nice.

No holes in the frame to bolt the top to. I won't be drilling any either so what ever I come up with have to work around that.


The top was cut away in the corners and notched for the wipers.



This top was never attached to the rig. I set in place to tow it home. I think that the PO bought it and tried to get a fit. He told me that it wasn't very good and may not work. I thought I had it figured out when I did a little body alingment but never checked it out. Eventually it will have a PAki top so I may just have trading material here. We'll see.

Rod

[a.greenspan]

something changed in the States
...old schoolers grow and grow
.... not a bad development
.... I like it
Cheers
Peter

[destin]

nice man looking good

More photos!

[Icantdive55]

Thought I would try my luck a filing a hole creatd by the PO. I read on one of the sites about using a washer so I went to the store and bought some the same thickness as the tub steel and with as small a hole in the center as possible.

I put a small magnet underneath, set it in place and welded it in very slowly.

All in all I think it came out OK. What method do you use to fill holes. Most of mine arn't this big


Rod

[Icantdive55]

During the disassembly several bolts twisted off inside the weld nuts. I looked all over for the correct one to replace them. All I could find were the ones from McMaster Car. I took a grinder to them to get a better OE look. Any one have a source for the real thing?


I also need a few of the captured weld nuts that are around the tranny hump. No pic of those.

Rod

[Corrugated Toy]

Great lookin' project! I'll be keeping an eye on it.

[Icantdive55]

Year of vehicle is early 65. Feb/March.

On my rig i noticed that the turn signals were the same color as the body so were the rear bumpers. I thought that is was a P/O think but i now know it's the correct way. But what about under the hood, body color or balck. And what about in the cab, seat frames and fuel tank.

Rod

[wesintl]

under hood and front of cowl is black. seat frames pewter and fuel tank same as body color

[Icantdive55]

Originally Posted by wesintl

under hood and front of cowl is black. seat frames pewter and fuel tank same as body color

Thanks you guys are the best. How about the fuel tank straps?

Rod

[Corrugated Toy]

Straps are body color as well.

[Cruiser_Nerd]

Originally Posted by Icantdive55

During the disassembly several bolts twisted off inside the weld nut Any one have a source for the real thing?

I also need a few of the captured weld nuts that are around the tranny hump. No pic of those.

Rod

I've used the nut-serts (pop rivet type). Not having the proper installing tool I tacked them on the exposed collar and compressed them with a regular bolt.

The captured nuts around the tranny hump are regular nuts in a welded on cage, you can open the cage and slip in a new nut.

[Icantdive55]

Thanks for the replies. Having the fuel tank the same color as the body will be nice. I'll be able to paint it the Spring Green I think it was originally and if I don't like it, choose a different color for the tub.

I will have to look into the nut serts, sounds like a way to go. When I was removing my tranny hump I used an air ratchet and it made a pretzel out of a couple of the captured weld nuts. I found these at McMaster Carr.


I also tried my luck at recreating one of the ribs for a rusted area of the wheel well. Used the techniques learned in a thread elsewhere in MUD. (sorry not sure how to link that here). Not to bad but I think I'll have another go at it to see if I can make it a little narrower. I used sheet metal that is 1/16 in thick and it is tough to hammer. I may have to go a little less than 1/16 to get the look I want. Has anyone esle tried the hammer and chisel/brick bolster method and have any other helpful hints. I only used a chisel but that darn thing took me SEVERAL hours to make! My hands are sore!

Rod

[a.greenspan]

Originally Posted by Icantdive55

.... I also tried my luck at recreating one of the ribs for a rusted area of the wheel well. Used the techniques learned in a thread elsewhere in MUD. (sorry not sure how to link that here).
Rod

Movie

Oldtimer-TV.com - Tipps und Tricks

Cheers
Peter

[Icantdive55]

Thanks peter, I'll have to give some thought as to how I will get the flat top to the rib. I think I have it figured out. The video DEFINITELY looks easier than what I spent the day doing.

Rod

[destin]

more photos man

great video btw Peter

[Icantdive55]

Well another 4 day weekend almost over and I got nothing accomplished, thats gotta change. Anyway I was looking over the threads that might in some way school me in the proper resto of my rig and I came across this photo (shamelessly stolen from that thread)


This is obvioulsy the factory method of securing the soft top. My Windshield frame looks like it once had this piece but now it's gone.

I would like to weld the proper channel in place. I read where a lot of people have screwed theirs into palce, has any one had any issues with welding it instead? When In place does it interfere with folding the windshield down?

While I'm on the subject of the windshield can someone tell me about this little hole in the very top of the frame. There are 4 of them total. I'm almost certain that they are a PO thing but he did such a good job of spacing them and they resemble the ones in the tub where the twist locks go I thought I better ask before I fill them.


Rod

[Cruiser_Nerd]

That must have been fun hammering that out of 1/16" steel. Looks great though, I'll have to look for that link I remember it.

[Icantdive55]

Originally Posted by Cruiser_Nerd

That must have been fun hammering that out of 1/16" steel. Looks great though, I'll have to look for that link I remember it.

It was a pain. The thread is in the 40/55 forum Mmmm Ribs. When I finished it it was too wide so I used a cut off wheel and cut it down the middle. Used a grinder to remove a little then welded it back together. Still not anywhere near resto quality but I did learn a little. Oh and it looks worse now for some reason. I have a coat of primer on it and I will look at it again later but I don't think I'll use it.

Rod

[Dusty 66]

Originally Posted by Icantdive55

Well another 4 day weekend almost over and I got nothing accomplished, thats gotta change. Anyway I was looking over the threads that might in some way school me in the proper resto of my rig and I came across this photo (shamelessly stolen from that thread)
Attachment 362872

This is obvioulsy the factory method of securing the soft top. My Windshield frame looks like it once had this piece but now it's gone.
Attachment 362873
I would like to weld the proper channel in place. I read where a lot of people have screwed theirs into palce, has any one had any issues with welding it instead? When In place does it interfere with folding the windshield down?

While I'm on the subject of the windshield can someone tell me about this little hole in the very top of the frame. There are 4 of them total. I'm almost certain that they are a PO thing but he did such a good job of spacing them and they resemble the ones in the tub where the twist locks go I thought I better ask before I fill them.
Attachment 362874

Rod

Rod It Nice to see you getting along on your 65,
the top of my Windshield frame has 7 - 6mm bolt holes to secure the soft top rail.
if not the 64 FSM said to use self taping screws to secure the rail http://www.root45.com/Owner's%20Manual.pdf

But I noticed your windshield frame looks like It has no ears so assume that the small hole on the outside edge is where to corner of the top fastens I think,
I would weld up the rest that do not have capture nut's then

[Living in the Past]

Picture one is a 62 soft top windshield. The second picture is the standard channels that bolt to the top of the winshield. The third picture is from the latest top I picked up. If was off a 67 that bolts like the newer ones but looks like the earlier welded on style. I seen a few 65s and 66s that have had the later style channel. I confused how this 67 channel was shaped like the earlier ones. It's the only one like it I've seen.

[Icantdive55]

Thanks for the Pics guys. Dusty shows that the windshield can be fastened down and the other shows the difference in the 2 types of channel. So now the question I have to ask is "does it make a difference which one you use if you have a Paki top". It looks like the last photo might hold the top a little lower therefore a little tighter. Does that make sense? My rig had the welded on channel at one time. I like the idea of the bolt on so that I can better seal the paint under it from rust then monitor it over the years. As you can see in the pic rust was a factor.


Thanks again for all the help. Rod

[Dusty 66]

I used both Paki and OEM channels with the Paki top I liked the OEM one It was a tighter fit.

[Living in the Past]

All the bolt on ones of mine are OEM. I like the type in the second picture because it's higher which would put less down pressure of the canvas against the rib on the top of the windshield. Less pressure against a narrow point in the canvas would help it last longer. Did that make any sense?