6 speed vs Auto - What's the real difference?

woooody · 04-18-06, 12:04 AM

OK, I'm really having a tough time on this one.

6spd means Fulltime 4wd
Auto means part-time 4wd

Auto = better mpg

6spd = 3.91 diff
Auto = 3.72 diff

Auto = $400 more

Auto = Chain drive transfer case(?!?!)

Maybe Tacoma/4Runner owners could comment -- which is better?

Seems like Autos are more plentiful. The concensus of other threads are that the auto is better off road. But what about the chain drive xfer case? I thought those were problematic on the v6 mini/tacomas?

Any comments appreciated

Ocelot · 04-18-06, 09:43 AM

6-Speed is the only way to go. The differences can best be summed up as such:

Manual = Totally Awesome
Auto = Worthless pile of garbage

The 6-Speed Full-Time 4WD is the only way to go. You get a locking torsen limited slip center diff in addition to the optional rear locker which is totally wicked.

I'm not sure of the mechanical details of each transfer case but I dont think durability will be a problem with either of them. I think the one in the auto is similar to the ones used in the taco, and I personally haven't heard problems about the TC in the tacos.

I wouldn't say the auto is way better off-road so much as it is way easier. But the 6-Speed is plenty easy off-road as well, most of these people just have no skillz.

I'm a die hard manual fan though... so take my opinions with a grain of salt

powderpig · 04-18-06, 10:52 AM

Opinions are always taken with a grain of salt, especially when using verbage "worthless pile of garbage", "most of these people have no skill", etc.

Both t-cases are chain drive cases. Pulling trailers the FJ, the west coast team have gotten better milage with the manual transmission FJ. The west coast team can not comment on mileage with out the trailers as they have not got the chance to drive long distance without the trailers.

It still takes skill to pick a line and to work a auto on hard terrian. But what you gain is not having to replace a worn out clutch when you burn one. Left foot brakeing allows you to crawl a section and work with the torque of the engine.
I personally like a manual for expedition type of travel and for crawling stuff you can not beat a auto for it workability.
But hey, differences of styles makes the world work in a mannor that benifits us all in the grand skeem of things.
The FJ teams were given autos and I personally like them for wheeling the stuff in Moab and the mountain trail of Colorado so far(I personally think I have a little skill). Next will be New Mexico and the terrain down there and then off to the Hollister hills and what they have to offer. I can then say more to that type of terrian they have to offer. In a couple of months I can comment on the woods of Tellico and other places (which I am looking forward to).
I jsut finished a ten day stint in Moab with Easter Jeep Safari and had a wonderfull time with the Jeep Crowd and the FJ's were well recieced by the end of EJS.
Later robbie

woooody · 04-18-06, 11:46 AM

Thanks for the comments.

According to the FJ dealer brochure there is a difference between the Auto and the Manual xfer cases, as they specifically single out chain drive on the auto xfer case. Hence the question. They can't be identical, as one is full time, the other isn't. The gearing is the same, however.

powderpig · 04-18-06, 12:22 PM

The pic's I have in the training manual both show chains. I have not seen a FSM on them yet. That would show the full story. later robbie

FusionCruiser · 04-18-06, 02:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by woooody

Thanks for the comments.

According to the FJ dealer brochure there is a difference between the Auto and the Manual xfer cases, as they specifically single out chain drive on the auto xfer case. Hence the question. They can't be identical, as one is full time, the other isn't. The gearing is the same, however.

The part time vs full-time difference is usually in the additional requirement of a center diff so front and back wheels can travel at different speeds when necessary (for a full time 4 wheel drive setup).

Both part time and full time have a Transfer case but when you disengage the tc on an auto you don't have any power going to the front wheels while on the manual the power is still routed through the center diff to both front and back wheels.

Might not be the best description of it but I'm kind of distracted right now.

Good luck,
Shawn

logic2 · 04-18-06, 02:48 PM

The technical specs above should be plenty of info for you to decide which one would mechanically suite you better. Personally: I just sold my 03 Rubicon (Automatic tranny) that was plenty enough low geared (4:11) and I never had problems off roading with the auto, in fact, I was never in a position where I "wished" I had a Manual. Skills are skills - Auto or Manual.

When I purchased my FJC, I elected for a 6-speed Manual and have no buyers remorse. I'm glad I went with the manual for the reasons below:

1.) It's just more fun to drive - with 245 HP, the manual is a blast.
2.) I believe (my opinion) that I can deliver more tourque, or at least can deliver the appropriate torque to the wheels under the appropriate circumstances, whatever they may be. I know this may be a very subjective statement, and maybe even the wrong use of "torque", but with a manual, I have more control of the ratio of RPM's to wheel rotation - i.e. it's easier for me to keep the cruiser in the same gear at higher RPMs, without the Automatic Tranny being smarter than I am and shifting gears when (it) wants to and not when (I) want to. There have been plenty of times where I wanted to keep the tranny in 2nd at high RPMs for faster throttle response and torque. You can always shift an Auto down into Low, but it's just not the same and in some instances, keeping an Auto Tranny in Low could really heat it up.

The Auto also has it's advantages - Steep inclines, etc...but I'm here to say the Manual is just fun to wheel with and gives more control to the driver - but not necessarily better off-road ability.

powderpig · 04-18-06, 06:38 PM

1.) It's just more fun to drive - with 245 HP, the manual is a blast.

The HP is only 239 and torque 278 ftlbs, for both trannies.

2.) I believe (my opinion) that I can deliver more tourque, or at least can deliver the appropriate torque to the wheels under the appropriate circumstances, whatever they may be. I know this may be a very subjective statement, and maybe even the wrong use of "torque", but with a manual, I have more control of the ratio of RPM's to wheel rotation - i.e. it's easier for me to keep the cruiser in the same gear at higher RPMs, without the Automatic Tranny being smarter than I am and shifting gears when (it) wants to and not when (I) want to. There have been plenty of times where I wanted to keep the tranny in 2nd at high RPMs for faster throttle response and torque. You can always shift an Auto down into Low, but it's just not the same and in some instances, keeping an Auto Tranny in Low could really heat it up.

In defence of the Auto and techinques used with the auto.
You can deliever lots of torque with the left foot brake method(left foot on brake, right on throttle, raise rpm to 1k or more to get more torque, modulate the brake to move) on the flats and the down hill sections to crawl over sections very slow. The auto in the FJ will hold second if put in second( used it for many hours at a time on trails in Moab recently). I have never over heated a toyota auto (in low range on trails)in the almost 10 years of drving toyota autos on cruisers if the cooling system is working properly. I had a fj 62 that needed a external trans cooler besides the one in the radiator, for pulling loads on the highway.
Over heating a domestic tranny is more likely then a toyota auto tranny. Basing generalizations of domestic hardware vs toyota is a mistake.

I was also suprized that the Fj crusier idled down the trail slower then some of the other jeep products on the trails I was on(considering the 3.72 final drive ratio's and the first gear of 3.52 in the auto), while not as slow as a real low gear ratio, but slow and in control, and only using the brakes for down hill when necessary or left braking tech when I needed to crawl down a ledge. Best of all no stalling the engine.

later robbie

steven4mc · 01-01-07, 01:04 PM

THAN!

LandCruisers4Life · 01-01-07, 01:47 PM

The 6 speed has an overall lower crawl ratio than the auto. I prefer the stick to allow me to control rpm levels and when I want to shift. Auto has an advantage not to stall, but if you're diligent, you will not stall your manual, and if you do, there is the clutch override button to start your cruiser in gear. Auto has the disadvantage of burning up under low speed travel, putting lots of heat on the whimpy auto trans fluid. If you have an auto, I suggest coolers for your transmission.

BC_FJC · 01-01-07, 02:26 PM

clutch override button works everytime....

drfdog · 01-01-07, 03:17 PM

Also take into account what the primary use of this vehicle is going to be used for and where. I choose the auto for the simple reason that I live in socal and had no daily use for ft4x4. The extra wear and tear due to constant use on dry pavement/concrete did not way kindly to a ft4x4 vehicle. Had I lived in lets say Utah where I might experience some real change in weather I might of opted for the manual. My usage has been 80% daily driver and 20% off roading/towing. So my choice was simple.

Dog

LandCruisers4Life · 01-01-07, 09:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by drfdog

Also take into account what the primary use of this vehicle is going to be used for and where. I choose the auto for the simple reason that I live in socal and had no daily use for ft4x4. The extra wear and tear due to constant use on dry pavement/concrete did not way kindly to a ft4x4 vehicle. Had I lived in lets say Utah where I might experience some real change in weather I might of opted for the manual. My usage has been 80% daily driver and 20% off roading/towing. So my choice was simple.

Dog

Many people bring up the wear and tear, the 'extra maintenance' etc. But do tell me, wouldn't you prefer 4 wheels pulling rather than 2 in a torrential downpour when you're picking up your kids from school? Just an example, but to me the added security is well worth it. When driving my full time 4wd on the highway in the rain, I experience perfect control of the vehicle, which didn't happen in part time vehicles I had also owned before. As well, when in 4hi unlocked position, there is no binding because none of the differentials are locked.

bulldog-yota · 01-02-07, 11:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by woooody

OK, I'm really having a tough time on this one.

6spd means Fulltime 4wd
Auto means part-time 4wd

Auto = better mpg

6spd = 3.91 diff
Auto = 3.72 diff

Auto = $400 more

Auto = Chain drive transfer case(?!?!)

Maybe Tacoma/4Runner owners could comment -- which is better?

Seems like Autos are more plentiful. The concensus of other threads are that the auto is better off road. But what about the chain drive xfer case? I thought those were problematic on the v6 mini/tacomas?

Any comments appreciated

Both transfer cases are chain driven, I can't remember the last transfer case from the Toy factory that was gear driven. I believe the 80s and 100s have cahins as well, not sure on the older LCs.

As said above the auto's transfer case is part time with no center diff, while the MT gets the transfer case from the 4Runner with a center torsen diff (splits orque ratios as needed). Unfortunately Toyota didn't think it necassary to make the center diff lock a seperate function from 4H and 4L, so it is locked in 4Lo. The torsen diff does make a big difference when driving at speed on gravel roads, you can push it pretty hard till VSC stops the fun. The rear stays much more planted than with a part time transfer case.

I think people underestimate the autos capability for offroad. With 5speeds and a torqueconverter it actually has good crawling capability, it also locks up in gear when going downhill providing a lot of engine braking.

I really would prefer if Toyota would bring out the auto with the torsen transfer case. Till then it is up to the user to figure out what works best for their needs. If the auto is released with torsen xcase there would be no debate. For the MT it would be really useful to get a crawler fitted. Maybe I'm just lazy, but the auto makes things so much easier than a MT offroad.

Tools R Us · 01-02-07, 09:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bulldog-yota

Both transfer cases are chain driven, I can't remember the last transfer case from the Toy factory that was gear driven. I believe the 80s and 100s have cahins as well, not sure on the older LCs...

Not sure on the 100, but 80 series and older LC's are all gear driven.

brew8 · 01-02-07, 10:26 PM

I have always used manual trannys in my personal vehicles while my work trucks use autos, I wheel a lot getting to remote location comm sites, on steep rocky terrain I like the manual, in mud or snow, the exception being frozen springtime snow drifts, I prefer the auto any time, so i bought the auto in the FJ cruiser but the FJ40 will always be a manual, Larry

bulldog-yota · 01-03-07, 01:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tools R Us

Not sure on the 100, but 80 series and older LC's are all gear driven.

Right you are

Jim_Chow · 01-03-07, 02:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tools R Us

Not sure on the 100, but 80 series and older LC's are all gear driven.

Looking at the 03 LX FSM, there is no mention of any chain for the t-case. Also, the 1st gen 4runners (85-89) had gear driven t-cases.

Runner Ryan · 01-03-07, 06:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jim_Chow

. Also, the 1st gen 4runners (85-89) had gear driven t-cases.

Not entirely correct. Only the manual 4cyl had the gear driven t-cases. The autos, and the V-6 powered trucks all had chain. Never really heard of any issues for either.

fjlien · 01-04-07, 03:52 PM

My biggest tip on the Auto vs. Manual is simple:
Be honest with how you intend to drive the vehicle.

My FJC is a 6MT- but I had years of 5spd manual experience with my '77 FJ40- RPM/wheelspin control, etc.- all the cake. The Honest portion of my advice is answered by the following: My on-road (more daily) vehicle is a 2000 Tundra. Fully automated right down to the coffee maker. If you aspire to be a rockstar- and are told by friends (without the "r") that anybody who uses an Auto off-road is a wannabe- I'd see if the percentage of off-road use warrants the sacrifice of lovely daily convenience (and better mileage).

Incidentally, the remarks stating the Auto is only $600 or so more are shadowed by the fact that you cannot obtain a rear locker without spending a heap of money in package costs (around 2k in Boise). Sincerely, BD

Jim_Chow · 01-04-07, 11:32 PM

It's also a lot easier & cheaper to replace the manual tranny fluid vs. auto tranny fluid...just drain & fill.

Noisycow · 01-07-07, 11:16 PM

If you do a lot of off roading, particularly stop and go on hills/rocks, get the AT. Otherwise, the 6mt is generally just more fun to drive all around. Just imo.

fj_jason · 01-08-07, 05:36 PM

..yes but with auto you can engage 4wd any time

Avet4 · 04-13-07, 10:35 AM

Yes but are you able to drive on dry pavement in the Auto in 4HI without drivetrain damage?

I have an 07 4runner V6 with the"multi-mode" 4WD that allows you to drive it like a fulltime 4WD. Does the Auto FJ still allow you to drive this way?

I ask because my girlfriend is looking for a smallish SUV and I think an FJ would be perfect for her as long as she can keep the truck in 4HI with the auto (cant drive stick). We live in Boston so this would be ideal for wintery situations without having to constantly switch from 2HI to 4HI.

FJTex · 04-13-07, 10:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Avet4

Yes but are you able to drive on dry pavement in the Auto in 4HI without drivetrain damage?

I have an 07 4runner V6 with the"multi-mode" 4WD that allows you to drive it like a fulltime 4WD. Does the Auto FJ still allow you to drive this way?

I ask because my girlfriend is looking for a smallish SUV and I think an FJ would be perfect for her as long as she can keep the truck in 4HI with the auto (cant drive stick). We live in Boston so this would be ideal for wintery situations without having to constantly switch from 2HI to 4HI.

you can drive it on the pavement in 4wd however, on dry pavemnt there will be more stress placed on the driveline, thats not my opinion, its just physics... there is no milti-mode type option, however it is possible to shift on the fly from 2HI to 4HI safely up to i think 40mph (i'd have to double check the manual) no need to shift into neutral or anything, just let off the gas and tug the stick (by way of reminder, especially considering that it would ostensibly be a girl driving the truck, the first dozen shifts or so will be very tight, it may be helpful to throw it into 4HI a couple of times just to get the feel for it, rather than getting into a situation where its snowing and dangerous out and she dosent realise how stiff the lever will be and is afraid of messing somthing up and leaves it in 2wd)

drfdog · 04-13-07, 10:58 AM

Why would you want to drive in 4HI on dry pavement? This is a semi hi profile vehicle so any cornering advantage you might have with all wheel drive is nagated with the hi profile. this is not a sports car, so for the auto verse manual question I think it boils down to what is the majority of driving you are going to experience. I too am about 80/20 commute/offroad so this was a no brainer. auto. This is from someone who hates autos as well! Had the manual not been f/t 4x4 I would of considered it more. No matter what you choose...just have fun!!!

Dog

soggy60 · 04-13-07, 11:19 AM

My Two Pennies:

IF when I get an FJC, it will be amannual tranny.

I keep vehicles for a long long time. (My 21 yr old FJ60 , over 400K miles)

Most vehicles dumped after 4 or so years is cause the auto tranny poops out and the owner doesn't want to pay 4 grand to fix.

In the manual, vehicle failure is clutch: a grand if ya have Toy do it, less if ya do it at home....

Again, the above is IMO . . .

tacollie · 04-13-07, 03:38 PM

I want full time 4wheel drive. If that doesn't matter to you then get which ever you like to drive more. I can wheel pretty good with a manual because that is what I have always had. I took my brothers 100 out and embarassed myself because I had never wheeled with an auto. Both are will last if you take care of them. If you are worried about the auto tranny, an aftermarket tranny cooler or synthetic trany fluid go a long ways in keeping your tranny cool and is cheaper than a rebuild. I don't think you will have problems either way.

04-18-06, 12:04 AM	#1
woooody IH8MUD Addict Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: Vallejo, Ca TLCA# 7704 Posts: 874	6 speed vs Auto - What's the real difference? OK, I'm really having a tough time on this one. 6spd means Fulltime 4wd Auto means part-time 4wd Auto = better mpg 6spd = 3.91 diff Auto = 3.72 diff Auto = $400 more Auto = Chain drive transfer case(?!?!) Maybe Tacoma/4Runner owners could comment -- which is better? Seems like Autos are more plentiful. The concensus of other threads are that the auto is better off road. But what about the chain drive xfer case? I thought those were problematic on the v6 mini/tacomas? Any comments appreciated __________________ Ross Woody TLCA #7704 72 FJ40 - ORION #342 ROTW 10/6/08 07 TRD FJC

04-18-06, 09:43 AM	#2
Ocelot IH8MUD Regular Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: The great white north Posts: 330	6-Speed is the only way to go. The differences can best be summed up as such: Manual = Totally Awesome Auto = Worthless pile of garbage The 6-Speed Full-Time 4WD is the only way to go. You get a locking torsen limited slip center diff in addition to the optional rear locker which is totally wicked. I'm not sure of the mechanical details of each transfer case but I dont think durability will be a problem with either of them. I think the one in the auto is similar to the ones used in the taco, and I personally haven't heard problems about the TC in the tacos. I wouldn't say the auto is way better off-road so much as it is way easier. But the 6-Speed is plenty easy off-road as well, most of these people just have no skillz. I'm a die hard manual fan though... so take my opinions with a grain of salt __________________ IFS: Inferior Front Suspension / It Failed Suddenly / It F@#%ing Sucks

04-18-06, 10:52 AM	#3
powderpig IH8MUD Addict Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: Boulder Foothills, CO TLCA# 8901 Posts: 731	Opinions are always taken with a grain of salt, especially when using verbage "worthless pile of garbage", "most of these people have no skill", etc. Both t-cases are chain drive cases. Pulling trailers the FJ, the west coast team have gotten better milage with the manual transmission FJ. The west coast team can not comment on mileage with out the trailers as they have not got the chance to drive long distance without the trailers. It still takes skill to pick a line and to work a auto on hard terrian. But what you gain is not having to replace a worn out clutch when you burn one. Left foot brakeing allows you to crawl a section and work with the torque of the engine. I personally like a manual for expedition type of travel and for crawling stuff you can not beat a auto for it workability. But hey, differences of styles makes the world work in a mannor that benifits us all in the grand skeem of things. The FJ teams were given autos and I personally like them for wheeling the stuff in Moab and the mountain trail of Colorado so far(I personally think I have a little skill). Next will be New Mexico and the terrain down there and then off to the Hollister hills and what they have to offer. I can then say more to that type of terrian they have to offer. In a couple of months I can comment on the woods of Tellico and other places (which I am looking forward to). I jsut finished a ten day stint in Moab with Easter Jeep Safari and had a wonderfull time with the Jeep Crowd and the FJ's were well recieced by the end of EJS. Later robbie __________________ 93 FZJ 80, 4.6 l, 6 slee suspenion, Front and rear and side aromor, 44 gal aux tank, 4.88, 35 MTR, daily driver, 36 TSL fun tire, drawer system, dual batteries. Can't wait for a trip. Senior Driver FJCTT

04-18-06, 11:46 AM	#4
woooody IH8MUD Addict Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: Vallejo, Ca TLCA# 7704 Posts: 874	Thanks for the comments. According to the FJ dealer brochure there is a difference between the Auto and the Manual xfer cases, as they specifically single out chain drive on the auto xfer case. Hence the question. They can't be identical, as one is full time, the other isn't. The gearing is the same, however. __________________ Ross Woody TLCA #7704 72 FJ40 - ORION #342 ROTW 10/6/08 07 TRD FJC

04-18-06, 12:22 PM	#5
powderpig IH8MUD Addict Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: Boulder Foothills, CO TLCA# 8901 Posts: 731	The pic's I have in the training manual both show chains. I have not seen a FSM on them yet. That would show the full story. later robbie __________________ 93 FZJ 80, 4.6 l, 6 slee suspenion, Front and rear and side aromor, 44 gal aux tank, 4.88, 35 MTR, daily driver, 36 TSL fun tire, drawer system, dual batteries. Can't wait for a trip. Senior Driver FJCTT

04-18-06, 02:48 PM	#7
logic2 IH8MUD Junior Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: Denison, Texas TLCA# 16081 Posts: 128	The technical specs above should be plenty of info for you to decide which one would mechanically suite you better. Personally: I just sold my 03 Rubicon (Automatic tranny) that was plenty enough low geared (4:11) and I never had problems off roading with the auto, in fact, I was never in a position where I "wished" I had a Manual. Skills are skills - Auto or Manual. When I purchased my FJC, I elected for a 6-speed Manual and have no buyers remorse. I'm glad I went with the manual for the reasons below: 1.) It's just more fun to drive - with 245 HP, the manual is a blast. 2.) I believe (my opinion) that I can deliver more tourque, or at least can deliver the appropriate torque to the wheels under the appropriate circumstances, whatever they may be. I know this may be a very subjective statement, and maybe even the wrong use of "torque", but with a manual, I have more control of the ratio of RPM's to wheel rotation - i.e. it's easier for me to keep the cruiser in the same gear at higher RPMs, without the Automatic Tranny being smarter than I am and shifting gears when (it) wants to and not when (I) want to. There have been plenty of times where I wanted to keep the tranny in 2nd at high RPMs for faster throttle response and torque. You can always shift an Auto down into Low, but it's just not the same and in some instances, keeping an Auto Tranny in Low could really heat it up. The Auto also has it's advantages - Steep inclines, etc...but I'm here to say the Manual is just fun to wheel with and gives more control to the driver - but not necessarily better off-road ability. __________________ Aye-chee-wa-wa Mike Silver 4x4 6-speed FJC Denison, Texas www.AmericanOwned.com

04-18-06, 06:38 PM	#8
powderpig IH8MUD Addict Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: Boulder Foothills, CO TLCA# 8901 Posts: 731	1.) It's just more fun to drive - with 245 HP, the manual is a blast. The HP is only 239 and torque 278 ftlbs, for both trannies. 2.) I believe (my opinion) that I can deliver more tourque, or at least can deliver the appropriate torque to the wheels under the appropriate circumstances, whatever they may be. I know this may be a very subjective statement, and maybe even the wrong use of "torque", but with a manual, I have more control of the ratio of RPM's to wheel rotation - i.e. it's easier for me to keep the cruiser in the same gear at higher RPMs, without the Automatic Tranny being smarter than I am and shifting gears when (it) wants to and not when (I) want to. There have been plenty of times where I wanted to keep the tranny in 2nd at high RPMs for faster throttle response and torque. You can always shift an Auto down into Low, but it's just not the same and in some instances, keeping an Auto Tranny in Low could really heat it up. In defence of the Auto and techinques used with the auto. You can deliever lots of torque with the left foot brake method(left foot on brake, right on throttle, raise rpm to 1k or more to get more torque, modulate the brake to move) on the flats and the down hill sections to crawl over sections very slow. The auto in the FJ will hold second if put in second( used it for many hours at a time on trails in Moab recently). I have never over heated a toyota auto (in low range on trails)in the almost 10 years of drving toyota autos on cruisers if the cooling system is working properly. I had a fj 62 that needed a external trans cooler besides the one in the radiator, for pulling loads on the highway. Over heating a domestic tranny is more likely then a toyota auto tranny. Basing generalizations of domestic hardware vs toyota is a mistake. I was also suprized that the Fj crusier idled down the trail slower then some of the other jeep products on the trails I was on(considering the 3.72 final drive ratio's and the first gear of 3.52 in the auto), while not as slow as a real low gear ratio, but slow and in control, and only using the brakes for down hill when necessary or left braking tech when I needed to crawl down a ledge. Best of all no stalling the engine. later robbie __________________ 93 FZJ 80, 4.6 l, 6 slee suspenion, Front and rear and side aromor, 44 gal aux tank, 4.88, 35 MTR, daily driver, 36 TSL fun tire, drawer system, dual batteries. Can't wait for a trip. Senior Driver FJCTT

01-01-07, 01:04 PM	#9
steven4mc IH8MUD Rookie Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: San Ramon, CA TLCA# 14294 Posts: 32	THAN! __________________ Stock 71/FJ40 FJC

01-01-07, 01:47 PM	#10
LandCruisers4Life IH8MUD Lifer Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: San Antonio, Texas TLCA# 16244 Posts: 1,612	The 6 speed has an overall lower crawl ratio than the auto. I prefer the stick to allow me to control rpm levels and when I want to shift. Auto has an advantage not to stall, but if you're diligent, you will not stall your manual, and if you do, there is the clutch override button to start your cruiser in gear. Auto has the disadvantage of burning up under low speed travel, putting lots of heat on the whimpy auto trans fluid. If you have an auto, I suggest coolers for your transmission. __________________ 2004 Land Cruiser UZJ100 "El Rinoceronte" Only 100 Series on earth with an Inti rack on top.

01-01-07, 02:26 PM	#11
BC_FJC IH8MUD Addict Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Vancouver, BC TLCA# 16085 Posts: 685	clutch override button works everytime.... __________________ Drew '07 Voodoo Blue FJ Crusier with a few upgrades Photos

01-01-07, 03:17 PM	#12
drfdog IH8MUD Rookie Join Date: Jun 2006 Posts: 46	Also take into account what the primary use of this vehicle is going to be used for and where. I choose the auto for the simple reason that I live in socal and had no daily use for ft4x4. The extra wear and tear due to constant use on dry pavement/concrete did not way kindly to a ft4x4 vehicle. Had I lived in lets say Utah where I might experience some real change in weather I might of opted for the manual. My usage has been 80% daily driver and 20% off roading/towing. So my choice was simple. Dog Last edited by drfdog; 01-01-07 at 07:38 PM.

01-02-07, 10:26 PM	#16
brew8 IH8MUD Addict Join Date: Apr 2004 TLCA# 7165 Posts: 766	I have always used manual trannys in my personal vehicles while my work trucks use autos, I wheel a lot getting to remote location comm sites, on steep rocky terrain I like the manual, in mud or snow, the exception being frozen springtime snow drifts, I prefer the auto any time, so i bought the auto in the FJ cruiser but the FJ40 will always be a manual, Larry __________________ Larry Brewster, TLCA 7165, Billings, MT

01-04-07, 03:52 PM	#20
fjlien IH8MUD Rookie Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: idaho: trail capital of the NW Posts: 12	My biggest tip on the Auto vs. Manual is simple: Be honest with how you intend to drive the vehicle. My FJC is a 6MT- but I had years of 5spd manual experience with my '77 FJ40- RPM/wheelspin control, etc.- all the cake. The Honest portion of my advice is answered by the following: My on-road (more daily) vehicle is a 2000 Tundra. Fully automated right down to the coffee maker. If you aspire to be a rockstar- and are told by friends (without the "r") that anybody who uses an Auto off-road is a wannabe- I'd see if the percentage of off-road use warrants the sacrifice of lovely daily convenience (and better mileage). Incidentally, the remarks stating the Auto is only $600 or so more are shadowed by the fact that you cannot obtain a rear locker without spending a heap of money in package costs (around 2k in Boise). Sincerely, BD

01-04-07, 11:32 PM	#21
Jim_Chow IH8MUD Lifer Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: Tucson, AZ Posts: 2,355	It's also a lot easier & cheaper to replace the manual tranny fluid vs. auto tranny fluid...just drain & fill. __________________ '03 LX470: ART slotted & cryo'd rotors, Porterfield R4s pads, Stoptech stainless hoses, ARB sahara & Kaymar bars, HID's. '86 4Runner: lots of mods incl rear electric locker, front truetrac, regeared, OME lift, ARB/Kaymar bars. '01 Prelude SH: stock '00 Honda CRV: stock

01-07-07, 11:16 PM	#22
Noisycow IH8MUD Rookie Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Lake Oswego Oregon Posts: 65	If you do a lot of off roading, particularly stop and go on hills/rocks, get the AT. Otherwise, the 6mt is generally just more fun to drive all around. Just imo. __________________ We are screwed.

01-08-07, 05:36 PM	#23
fj_jason IH8MUD Rookie Join Date: Jan 2007 Posts: 6	..yes but with auto you can engage 4wd any time

04-13-07, 10:35 AM	#24
Avet4 IH8MUD Rookie Join Date: Apr 2007 Posts: 1	Yes but are you able to drive on dry pavement in the Auto in 4HI without drivetrain damage? I have an 07 4runner V6 with the"multi-mode" 4WD that allows you to drive it like a fulltime 4WD. Does the Auto FJ still allow you to drive this way? I ask because my girlfriend is looking for a smallish SUV and I think an FJ would be perfect for her as long as she can keep the truck in 4HI with the auto (cant drive stick). We live in Boston so this would be ideal for wintery situations without having to constantly switch from 2HI to 4HI.

04-13-07, 10:58 AM	#26
drfdog IH8MUD Rookie Join Date: Jun 2006 Posts: 46	Why would you want to drive in 4HI on dry pavement? This is a semi hi profile vehicle so any cornering advantage you might have with all wheel drive is nagated with the hi profile. this is not a sports car, so for the auto verse manual question I think it boils down to what is the majority of driving you are going to experience. I too am about 80/20 commute/offroad so this was a no brainer. auto. This is from someone who hates autos as well! Had the manual not been f/t 4x4 I would of considered it more. No matter what you choose...just have fun!!! Dog

04-13-07, 11:19 AM	#27
soggy60 IH8MUD Addict Join Date: Nov 2004 Posts: 699	My Two Pennies: IF when I get an FJC, it will be amannual tranny. I keep vehicles for a long long time. (My 21 yr old FJ60 , over 400K miles) Most vehicles dumped after 4 or so years is cause the auto tranny poops out and the owner doesn't want to pay 4 grand to fix. In the manual, vehicle failure is clutch: a grand if ya have Toy do it, less if ya do it at home.... Again, the above is IMO . . . __________________ Nov 85 FJ60

04-13-07, 03:38 PM	#28
tacollie IH8MUD Rookie Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Colorado Springs Posts: 29	I want full time 4wheel drive. If that doesn't matter to you then get which ever you like to drive more. I can wheel pretty good with a manual because that is what I have always had. I took my brothers 100 out and embarassed myself because I had never wheeled with an auto. Both are will last if you take care of them. If you are worried about the auto tranny, an aftermarket tranny cooler or synthetic trany fluid go a long ways in keeping your tranny cool and is cheaper than a rebuild. I don't think you will have problems either way.