Rear Control Arm Skid

KENSOFFROAD · 10-06-09, 09:13 AM

I made a set of these for a guy on a whim, and he suggested that I start to sell them, so I figured I post some pics and specs and get some honest feed back. Is this a path worth traveling, or is there already something on the market that fills the void and does a better job? Spent most of my time working on Jeeps so this Toyota stuff is new territory for me. Thank you

Sean

These were made with 1/4in steel.

knoll0351 · 10-06-09, 01:09 PM

I would say that if you extend the forward section all the way to the frame rail you will have more interest. Very nice work!

Brock · 10-07-09, 07:38 AM

good idea...and yes there are a couple others already doing this out there. Outrider Suspension Armor is one and I have them on my rear LCA you can see in my build thread in signature.

Mine were already bent and scraped so required a 2lb sledge and some prying to get it all realigned properly when I installed the armor skids. Love them though...

Nice work you did...good luck.

KENSOFFROAD · 10-07-09, 08:15 AM

I really appreciate the advice, and I will go back and make the neccesary changes

Thank you

Sean

DrUnit · 10-07-09, 09:32 AM

That bolt on the front would be a problem. One good whack on a rock and it's toast. It doesn't really need that bolt to stay on, though it might keep it from rattling.

knoll0351 · 10-07-09, 03:46 PM

Maybe you could use a carriage bolt if you can get a nut on from the inside...

KENSOFFROAD · 10-08-09, 07:31 AM

I think a carriage bolt could work, I added the bolt/hole afterwards because the skid did move a little and I didn't that was a good idea.

Someone else mentioned makeing it go to the frame, do you also think it might be neccesary to also have the skid almost like plate the bottom of the frame, then come down over the control arm bracket?

Sean

knoll0351 · 10-08-09, 12:19 PM

I was thinking if it came to reast at the frame, resting on the weld joint, that woudl provide ample protection. Now that you mention it running along the frame is another option. The only concern I would have here is if the leading edge could then get "snagged" up on obstacles...

Digger422 · 10-19-09, 07:26 AM

The front link mount armor was a pain in the butt to work up.

2 proof of concept models and 4 prototypes later - I took it to the market and so far I have had 1 slight revision. I am very pleased to say that I have had no failures and I just had a full set of armor run the Rubicon without issue.

The red components are the armor products that I make.

If you have any questions please feel free to shoot me a PM.

NCFJ · 10-19-09, 02:58 PM

I think that the bolt in the front is a good idea, although a rounded head like that of a carriage was a great idea. There have been reports on other forums of similar skids made by several other companies that only use the LCA mounting bolt having problems with the bolt hole wallowing out. It seems repeated hits on the skid transmits all the force of the hit directly to the bolt.

Digger422 · 10-20-09, 11:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NCFJ

I think that the bolt in the front is a good idea, although a rounded head like that of a carriage was a great idea. There have been reports on other forums of similar skids made by several other companies that only use the LCA mounting bolt having problems with the bolt hole wallowing out. It seems repeated hits on the skid transmits all the force of the hit directly to the bolt.

Yep..

That is the reason I designed mine the way I did.

I have approximately 45 sets out and haven't had a single one wallow out. But then again, the side plates are made of 1/4" and I am using the factory diameter (but longer) bolt in a 10.8 spec for a tight tolerance fit in the bolt up points.

Tight Tolerance = tight fit = no slop or flop.

Digger422 · 11-10-09, 12:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Digger422

Yep..

That is the reason I designed mine the way I did.

I have approximately 45 sets out and haven't had a single one wallow out. But then again, the side plates are made of 1/4" and I am using the factory diameter (but longer) bolt in a 10.8 spec for a tight tolerance fit in the bolt up points.

Tight Tolerance = tight fit = no slop or flop.

Here is a well used set of my front & rear link mount armor and rear diff armor on Nick Power's (SouthTexasCruiser) FJC.

These have been well used at places like Katemcy Rocks, Barnwell Mountain, Rock Creek, Cline's and The Rubicon Trail.

Tons of abuse with no problems.

96r50 · 11-10-09, 09:38 AM

Maybe I'm way off base here, but why don't you start your own thread instead of hijacking this one and promoting your own products over those of the OP? He posted up a design and asked for feedback, not for another vendor to start shamelessly advertising his own version of the same thing.

Just my 2 cents, do with it as you please

Quote:

Originally Posted by Digger422

Here is a well used set of my front & rear link mount armor and rear diff armor on Nick Power's (SouthTexasCruiser) FJC.

These have been well used at places like Katemcy Rocks, Barnwell Mountain, Rock Creek, Cline's and The Rubicon Trail.

Tons of abuse with no problems.

knoll0351 · 11-10-09, 10:09 AM

I think it does prove the point that the design is solid