Anyone tried Royal Purple

[joebob2586]

Im getting ready to change out all of my fluids on the FJ I wanted to change everything to synthetic and if possible run the same brand throughout the FJ...I was watching an episode of trucks and they tested royal purple and after the dyno it showed an actual Gain in power, while improving gas milage and when they checked the temp of the diffs and trans it was all running ten degrees cooler...im pretty much sold on it but just wanted to double check if anyone else has tried it and what they thought...

Thanks.

[FirstToy]

check 80s tech for discussion about it

I think RP is not as good as other synthetics for the money.

[NoHandleBars]

Originally Posted by FirstToy

check 80s tech for discussion about it

I think RP is not as good as other synthetics for the money.

Mind explaining that? I've been using RP for quite awhile and noticed a difference the second I switched from Valvoline Full Synthetic to Royal Purple Synthetic. The engine "purs" and idles much smoother, I also used it in my rear differential when I changed that out at 15k, WAYYY smother thier gear oil is AWESOME! As to the comment above...don't know why people say that without backing it up, unless of course it's just a random opinon...anyway, stay away from Castrol and Valvoline. Castrol is NOT a full synthetic regardless of what it says, and Valvoline just wasn't that good. The THREE You want to decide on are, Mobile1, Royal Purple, and Redline.

Royal Purple and Redline are made more for people who rev\race their engine around quite a bit compared to Mobile1, however Mobile1 still makes a fantastic synthetic oil, that is easily found at most places. Personally, I'd say Royal Purple, just because I've had great experiences with it. From what I hear, Redline is a BIT better than RP, but I can't find it in any local stores so I'm not going to bother with it. My engine and gears seem to love RP, so I'll stick with it.

BTW, why would you add a high-grade synthetic oil to a 80's Toyota? If you ask Royal Purple they DONT even recommend doing that, you're not going to see NEARLY the benefits on an old engine like that, and ontop of that if you've been running dino forever switching to SYNTHETIC can cause "complications". Old engines like those are best left on dino, as that was what was out at the time, so they were made for it. Never seen a test done on THAT old of a vehicle showing any benefits of synthetic, only on NEW cars have I seen the dynos.

[FirstToy]

Originally Posted by NoHandleBars

Mind explaining that? I've been using RP for quite awhile and noticed a difference the second I switched from Valvoline Full Synthetic to Royal Purple Synthetic. The engine "purs" and idles much smoother, I also used it in my rear differential when I changed that out at 15k, WAYYY smother thier gear oil is AWESOME! As to the comment above...don't know why people say that without backing it up, unless of course it's just a random opinon...anyway, stay away from Castrol and Valvoline. Castrol is NOT a full synthetic regardless of what it says, and Valvoline just wasn't that good. The THREE You want to decide on are, Mobile1, Royal Purple, and Redline.

Royal Purple and Redline are made more for people who rev\race their engine around quite a bit compared to Mobile1, however Mobile1 still makes a fantastic synthetic oil, that is easily found at most places. Personally, I'd say Royal Purple, just because I've had great experiences with it. From what I hear, Redline is a BIT better than RP, but I can't find it in any local stores so I'm not going to bother with it. My engine and gears seem to love RP, so I'll stick with it.

BTW, why would you add a high-grade synthetic oil to a 80's Toyota? If you ask Royal Purple they DONT even recommend doing that, you're not going to see NEARLY the benefits on an old engine like that, and ontop of that if you've been running dino forever switching to SYNTHETIC can cause "complications". Old engines like those are best left on dino, as that was what was out at the time, so they were made for it. Never seen a test done on THAT old of a vehicle showing any benefits of synthetic, only on NEW cars have I seen the dynos.

The FZJ80 is a 94-97 vehicle.

http://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-te...teresting.html

as I said, a wealth of reading
IH8MUD.com Forum - Search Results
IH8MUD.com Forum - Search Results

[NoHandleBars]

Once again...testing on a OLD vehicle, you or whoever decided to do that, prob had about 100,000 miles of DINO oil through it. At that point, WHY do you think switching would make a difference? You would already have deposit buildups, and on top of that if you've been running dino forever SYNTHETIC can have an effect on the seals. On top of that an old engine like that was made to run tride and true on dino, and could handle oil sludge problems with a breeze. Engines on the FJ, (1GR-FE) are far more sensitive, as anyone who has ever worked on the engine can tell you. Do a test on the FJ, use REGULAR dino, then SYNTHETIC, you SHOULD\WILL notice smoother idleing, smoother cold-starts due to the better low and high temperature viscosity performance, and down the road you'll see that you should have no, if any, oil sludge problems. And the the fact that synthetic oil breaks down so much slower and is so much better in winter weather than dino (which can freeze) it's just a win win with new engines. A great vehicle to see the difference on if you REALLY wanna feel it, would be BMW's M3 (07), it runs poor as hell with Dino, and the engine just chugs along as it doesn't handle thick oil very well.


Anyway, I'm done, RP worked for me, I felt and saw the differences on the scanguage. If you want to a right test, do it on the vehicle on discussion. Using a high-grade synthetic on a vehicle that has been using dino for ages just doesn't make sense and isn't going to give you the benefits. That's like buying a truck that requires 87 fuel, and putting 93 in it. You wont tell a difference, and it MIGHT mess it up a bit. Where as the FJ can RUN 87, but works far better, and runs smoother, with 93. Same thing with synthetic oils in the sucker, it just runs smoother with it.

Oh, and only ONE link you posted worked. However, I did enough studying of synthetic oils before I switched my baby over to it, so I have no need to read them.
If we are gonna be posting links, then here's dyno list of RP.
Royal Purple Summary of Independent Tests

BTW, I am NOT trying to bash you or disprove you, I know for a fact on old cars\older cars synthetic shows no benefits, such as my friends Tahoe, he had 100k of dino run through it, and synthetic didn't even make a slight difference. all I'm saying is I believe in synthetic oil in newer engines, and I have personally seen the difference...that's all. So I WILL recommend it to people, at least on the FJ Cruiser, and you WILL see the benefits down the road when you have no sludge build up, and you're engine has been fully protected during cold-starts, and the lower temperature during hard\long driving.

[NYCTRD]

RP all the way (except AT of course which requires a proprietary "voodoo" blend of oil, vinegar & swamp mud).

The only other synthetic I've used is AGIP so I can't really comment on how it compares with Mobil, etc....it's expensive, so it's gotta be better...right?!

[NoHandleBars]

Originally Posted by NYCTRD

RP all the way (except AT of course which requires a proprietary "voodoo" blend of oil, vinegar & swamp mud).

The only other synthetic I've used is AGIP so I can't really comment on how it compares with Mobil, etc....it's expensive, so it's gotta be better...right?!

Lol. Checked up redline...2-3$ more than RP...yeah....maybe when I buy a superbike when I get tired of life.

[Brock]

there is more to good synthetic oil than HP gains.....you want heat shear resistance, viscosity breakdown resistance, cleaning properties, and scar wear tests typically done with 4 ball test. If you only go for extra HP gains then you may be opening your engine up to long term effects that may affect reliability.

Me personally....think all synthetics are going to give you the same HP gains given similar weights and ratings on oil tested for full synthetics. The other numbers that tell how well it is protecting your engine is more important...and you want a good all around synthetic not one that is very high in one area and then subpar in the others. Just my 2 cents...

if you are happy with it...then keep on...but better oils out there than RP in my opinion.

[NoHandleBars]

Originally Posted by Brock

there is more to good synthetic oil than HP gains.....you want heat shear resistance, viscosity breakdown resistance, cleaning properties, and scar wear tests typically done with 4 ball test. If you only go for extra HP gains then you may be opening your engine up to long term effects that may affect reliability.

Me personally....think all synthetics are going to give you the same HP gains given similar weights and ratings on oil tested for full synthetics. The other numbers that tell how well it is protecting your engine is more important...and you want a good all around synthetic not one that is very high in one area and then subpar in the others. Just my 2 cents...

if you are happy with it...then keep on...but better oils out there than RP in my opinion.

Yes...of COURSE there are better oils, but you're looking at upwards of 10-12$ a quart, and on top of that, can you even FIND these "better oils" locally?

[Brock]

if you only do oil chane once or twice a year depending on what you are comfortable...they are paying for themselves compared to regular oil every 3k miles as most allow 15,000+ between changes for full synthetic with quality filter. Mobil 1 is routinely one of the best oils...as is AMSOIL. Both available locally and online delivered to your door within 4-6 days.

[FirstToy]

Originally Posted by NoHandleBars

Once again...testing on a OLD vehicle, you or whoever decided to do that, prob had about 100,000 miles of DINO oil through it. At that point, WHY do you think switching would make a difference? You would already have deposit buildups, and on top of that if you've been running dino forever SYNTHETIC can have an effect on the seals. On top of that an old engine like that was made to run tride and true on dino, and could handle oil sludge problems with a breeze. Engines on the FJ, (1GR-FE) are far more sensitive, as anyone who has ever worked on the engine can tell you. Do a test on the FJ, use REGULAR dino, then SYNTHETIC, you SHOULD\WILL notice smoother idleing, smoother cold-starts due to the better low and high temperature viscosity performance, and down the road you'll see that you should have no, if any, oil sludge problems. And the the fact that synthetic oil breaks down so much slower and is so much better in winter weather than dino (which can freeze) it's just a win win with new engines. A great vehicle to see the difference on if you REALLY wanna feel it, would be BMW's M3 (07), it runs poor as hell with Dino, and the engine just chugs along as it doesn't handle thick oil very well.


Anyway, I'm done, RP worked for me, I felt and saw the differences on the scanguage. If you want to a right test, do it on the vehicle on discussion. Using a high-grade synthetic on a vehicle that has been using dino for ages just doesn't make sense and isn't going to give you the benefits. That's like buying a truck that requires 87 fuel, and putting 93 in it. You wont tell a difference, and it MIGHT mess it up a bit. Where as the FJ can RUN 87, but works far better, and runs smoother, with 93. Same thing with synthetic oils in the sucker, it just runs smoother with it.

Oh, and only ONE link you posted worked. However, I did enough studying of synthetic oils before I switched my baby over to it, so I have no need to read them.
If we are gonna be posting links, then here's dyno list of RP.
Royal Purple Summary of Independent Tests

BTW, I am NOT trying to bash you or disprove you, I know for a fact on old cars\older cars synthetic shows no benefits, such as my friends Tahoe, he had 100k of dino run through it, and synthetic didn't even make a slight difference. all I'm saying is I believe in synthetic oil in newer engines, and I have personally seen the difference...that's all. So I WILL recommend it to people, at least on the FJ Cruiser, and you WILL see the benefits down the road when you have no sludge build up, and you're engine has been fully protected during cold-starts, and the lower temperature during hard\long driving.

Always heated debates when it comes to oil and there always seems to be someone who must attack other opinions.
I don't run syn in my FZJ80 but I do in my turbo4 car and have had, you guessed it, a 1GR-FE for 3 years. I know exactly what works and what doesn't.
Do you want to know who put the first OME suspension lift on the 120 platform in the US?
If you think I don't know anything about this motor or engineering on this vehicle, you're mistaken.

SEARCH for information. I am not saying RP is bad. I'm saying for the money, you can do better. Somewhere in the archives, there is some info on RP not measuring up to other syns.
I have RP in my car transmission and I don't like the feel of it but too lazy to change it again.

At this point, I am really happy no one else has gotten ridiculous. It could be a good thread on RP discussion so let's do that instead.

[NoHandleBars]

Originally Posted by Brock

if you only do oil chane once or twice a year depending on what you are comfortable...they are paying for themselves compared to regular oil every 3k miles as most allow 15,000+ between changes for full synthetic with quality filter. Mobil 1 is routinely one of the best oils...as is AMSOIL. Both available locally and online delivered to your door within 4-6 days.

Mobile1 is better than RP? All the comparisons I've seen show Royal Purple have about a 4 degree drop in temp compared to Mobile1. I emailed RP about when I should change it, and how often I should change my oil filter, here's what they said

We recommend following Toyota’s recommended oil change intervals until you are out of warranty. If you were to extend the drains beyond the factory’s recommendations, they can void your warranty. Once you are out of warranty, we recommend 12,000 – 15,000 miles with a filter change at 3,000 - 5,000 miles.

The K&N filter is a great choice for your FJ.

Kyle Neal
Technical Sales Representative
1 Royal Purple Lane"






I guess I just can't see the point of RUNNING the risk of using any type of oil out there for 10k, to 15k, even that "weird" Mobile1 oil that says 20k+ miles (Extended Performance). To me it's just not worth the risk of having oil that could not be lubricating properly in there for THAT long of an extended time.... I mean who knows the quality of the oil at 10k? Each to their own I guess. I think the max I'd go is 8k.

[Brock]

just depends on who you want to believe....and whether you think independent tests performed at a manufacturers request are still valid. I have read a lot and still would use Mobil 1 or Amsoil before Royal Purple. I would use whatever you are most comfortable using at change intervals you are comfortable with...as in the end it is your vehicle.

that is why America is great...we got choices we can make based on money, reliability, protection, knowledge, recommendations, science, etc. Then we choose which is most important and put out our money.

Plus my quote says Mobil 1 is routinely one of the best oils. It is... Some use different additives...different way of going about the same thing..and because of this their products put more emphasis on one part rather than another. I know with my Cummins diesel...they definitely did not recommend Royal Purple. If I remember right it was Rotella and AMSOIL being recommended by the mechanics...

[NoHandleBars]

Originally Posted by Brock

just depends on who you want to believe....and whether you think independent tests performed at a manufacturers request are still valid. I have read a lot and still would use Mobil 1 or Amsoil before Royal Purple. I would use whatever you are most comfortable using at change intervals you are comfortable with...as in the end it is your vehicle.

that is why America is great...we got choices we can make based on money, reliability, protection, knowledge, recommendations, science, etc. Then we choose which is most important and put out our money.

Plus my quote says Mobil 1 is routinely one of the best oils. It is... Some use different additives...different way of going about the same thing..and because of this their products put more emphasis on one part rather than another. I know with my Cummins diesel...they definitely did not recommend Royal Purple. If I remember right it was Rotella and AMSOIL being recommended by the mechanics...

Everyone and EVERY mechanic you meet will have a different opinon. There is NEVER a product that everyone will agree and chose, so with SO many options for oil, there will always be a firery debate. But yes, I'll stick with RP since I can easily find it locally and have never had a problem with it.

[joebob2586]

just finished draining and refilling my front and rear diff with RP. Both the front and rear were jet black with metal shavings in them and i only have about 12500 miles on the FJ...i think next im going to do the Tranny and XFER Case.

[killerkoff]

I agree the nohandlebars i also saw about 4 degree lower than normal operating temp

[Woodeye]

Originally Posted by Brock

Plus my quote says Mobil 1 is routinely one of the best oils. It is... Some use different additives...different way of going about the same thing..and because of this their products put more emphasis on one part rather than another. I know with my Cummins diesel...they definitely did not recommend Royal Purple. If I remember right it was Rotella and AMSOIL being recommended by the mechanics...

Has anyone ever asked Toyota if using the synthetic oils will void the warranty?

Woodeye

[Brock]

using any product for its proper application cannot void the warranty. Toyota would have to prove that the use of Synthetic oil ALONE caused or led to the failure.
as long as you are using a respected oil and not something put together by your 2nd cousin, 3 times removed on your great aunts side that is a hobby chemist....then you will be good. LOL

if manufacturers are not using synthetic it is to save money...nothing else could be influencing them. they then would have to prove that every other manufacturer using the same oils from the factory are doing something different then they are.

last thing is they cannot dictate a specific product to be used unless they provide that product to you. My wifes car requires specific type oil....so the dealership does her fluid changes for free. Once they stop...they can no longer hold us to using that same oil as long as what we use is rated the same or higher.

[NoHandleBars]

Originally Posted by Woodeye

Has anyone ever asked Toyota if using the synthetic oils will void the warranty?

Woodeye

No. They put Valvoline Synthetic when mine was just a baby at 3k.

[NYCTRD]

Originally Posted by Woodeye

Has anyone ever asked Toyota if using the synthetic oils will void the warranty?

Woodeye

Toyota has very specific requirements for all their lubricants.

Royal Purple meets them all for motor & gear oil.

As you know, their AT oil is "special". I plan on replacing that @ 30-k.

I never use synthetic in the engines of my vehicles. I change the oil & filter every 3-k. Synthetic or not, a lot of crud will build up if anyone would go 10-k between oil changes...

[REKCUT]

Using the royal purple is not what will or may void the warranty. Its going 12 to 14k between changes that can get you in trouble. If the truck has an issue that is oil related as in wear on the engine or build up that can be possibly linked to the oil change routine then they can decide not to cover the repair. They cant void the entire warranty, just decide not to pay for a certain item they deam is related to the oil change proceedure. In other words they cant decide to not fix your broken axle because you used royal purple and went 12k between changes. That is why the oil manufactures tell you to use the recommended mileage on changes. I use the Royal purple and am happy with it. I let it go 12k but change the oil filter every 6k

[Cruiserdrew]

Any oil change is better than no oil change, so if you want to use Royal Purple, go ahead. It will work fine, but then so will any number of lubes.

There is no science to say one synthetic is better than another, though most experience and long term results have been with Mobil1. They have the biggest market share, the best availability, and the biggest engineering department by far.

Like Amsoil, RP quotes lube qualities that may or may not be relevant to long term durability. In my view they are the new kids on the block with a stupid name, and therefore, are as yet, unworthy.

Me personally, I like Mobil1, not for any scientific reason, or because it runs 4 degrees cooler but because I've used it since 1984 and my cars have always gone to high miles with little wear. They have earned my business. Motor oil, gear oil, grease, ATF, I like it all. Just remember, that's opinion, not science.

Do some reading on Bobistheoilguy.com to get a perspective on all of the brand fights. My basic view-they are all good, and in most cases non-synthetics are just as good and cheaper. The key to longevity is having a maintanence interval and sticking to it, not exactly what you use.

I'm thinking that FJCs are built like other Toyotas and will run to very high mileage with just the routine changes prescribed by Toyota, so what oil to use is not a massively hard decision.

[NYCTRD]

Originally Posted by REKCUT

Using the royal purple is not what will or may void the warranty. Its going 12 to 14k between changes that can get you in trouble. If the truck has an issue that is oil related as in wear on the engine or build up that can be possibly linked to the oil change routine then they can decide not to cover the repair. They cant void the entire warranty, just decide not to pay for a certain item they deam is related to the oil change proceedure. In other words they cant decide to not fix your broken axle because you used royal purple and went 12k between changes. That is why the oil manufactures tell you to use the recommended mileage on changes. I use the Royal purple and am happy with it. I let it go 12k but change the oil filter every 6k

BUT they CAN easily void a warranty if you used a lubricant NOT APPROVED by Toyota (like regular AT fluid in the AT of the Cruiser as a drastic example). Using non-approved viscosities and GL ratings would likely cause warranty problems as well.


BTW-Anyone know what makes it purple? Not a real macho-manly truck kinda colour!~