Oil filter...which one?

[shane4x4]

I run the K&N, seems to work pretty well.

[NoHandleBars]

Originally Posted by Toledo FJ

I was comparing the burst pressure against the Pure Power filter which lists at 1000 psi. I never even mentioned K&N. I really don't care if you bite or not.

Clearly you aren't sold on the SS filters and that is fine. But to make claims that their data is jibberish, and that they don't work isn't true.

I am saying their data is jibberish to anyone who has run anything higher-grade than a stock filter. They say "35 Micorons" or "30" ok, absolute, nothing larger than that can pass through, HOW does that in any way tell me how small of particles it can filter? K&N tells me straight out, Truflow doesn't, I'm done talking about this as it's getting old. You're content with it, that's all that matters, if it makes you happy, it was worth it.

[DEWFPO]

For clarity: Rarely does an oil filter's bypass valve kick in. Only when a filter is getting plugged up or the oil is so thick (from cold/viscosity) that the differential pressure across the oil filter element exceeds a predetermined value (which varies depending on the engine application), the bypass valve opens so oil can continue to flow to the engine. A portion of the oil still flows thru the filter if it can. An oil filter is rarely ever completely plugged, unless it has never been changed or there is a problem with the engine.

As well, if the engine is operating fine and the bypass kicks in because you are running straight 30 weight dino in -30F temps, as soon as the oil thins out the bypass stops and you are filtering ALL of your oil again. That's the same oil that was sitting in your oil pan, clean, filtered oil. So it's not a problem to run that oil thru your engine for a few minutes under the unlikely conditions I mentioned above.

There is NOT a bunch of junk floating around in your oil. Only small enough particles that are not filtered out by your filter (bypass or not). That's what makes it dark. The only way to remove those is to run something like an Amsoil dual/bypass filter that filter's down to sub-micron levels.

I hope this helps.

DEWPFO

[Toledo FJ]

Hey Dewfpo,
I read a review of some filters a while back, sorry I can't remember where, that said some of the cheaper ones had valves that were partially opening under normal operating pressures. If I can find the article again, I'll post a link.

I haven't had a chance to call Trufilter to ask what the smallest particle it will stop is, but i'll try to do that today. I take it you haven't called to ask them anything either? I think it is safe to assume that it will filter down to the same size of any of the other filters using the identical SS media. If you look at the design of these filters, they are essentially identical. They have a base, a filter, and a top. So I don't see how one will filter better than anoter using the exact same filter.

All I can speak on at this point is my personal experience with the trufilter, which has been excellent. All you have to do is open the top and look inside to confirm that it is doing its job.

I don't think the conversation is gettin old, considernig we haven't gotten the answers to your questions yet. I'm not trying to challenge you or irritate you. I just want to know what the truth is. If I'm wrong about the trufilter, I'll be happy to switch back to the high end synthetic filters. Honestly, as long as it filters as well as the stock filter, I'm cool with it. If you change your oil regularly, and replace or clean your filter you aren't gonna have any problems. It's a yota! So if it is at least as good as the stock filter, the economic, environmental, and aesthetic benefits justify it as a good purchase as far as I'm concerned. I run only Nippon ENEOS full synthetic 5W-40 oil and I change oil every 3000 miles and thoroughly clean the filter religiously. I have no doubts that my engine will last for many, many years.

Prior to purchasing my FJ, I was really not able to do much more than change a tire and my oil. And honestly, I didn't ever change my own oil. The FJ has totally changed all of that and I'm getting more confident in my mechanical abilities every day. Now I've done bumpers, rock rails, CAI install, Full suspension swaps, including all contorl arms etc. For me this truck has opened me up to a new fun hobby and I've made some good friends via FJ mod days in my area. For me the trufilter has the added benefit of being one more cool part to play with and get my hands dirty. I just think it is fun to be able to take things apart, see how they work, see how well they are working, etc... So yes, I'm very happy with my decision, and as you stated, that is really all that matters. Good luck with your rig and whatever you decide to do with it. I have nothing but love for fellow FJ'ers! I'll let you knwo what I find out when I talk to the folks at Trufilter.

One last thing I want to mention is that I don't think a company website is always a good indicator of a quality product. For instance, Budbuilt and Dirty Parts are known in the FJ community as providing some of the very best products and info on the FJ. Bud's website is way outdated. He doesn't even list half of the products he sells or is working on for the FJ. The website for Dirty Parts is basically totally nonfunctional. Larry is considered a FJ Guru by many, so his website isn't a reflection of his buisness.

[DEWFPO]

Hi ToledoFJ,

My post was in no way specific to any particular oil filter. I was just trying to explain how the bypass valve in most engine/oil filters work so that folks could try to understand it.

I think it's great your doing so much research on the Trufilter. Discussions such as this are healthy (as long as they stay civil). I myself have tried many different premium oil filters over the years, so my curiosity is somewhat similar to yours.

I think we need to have another one of those oil filter tests that was done back in the 90's with all the new filters out there. An updated version.

Perhaps someone has already done that at "Bobistheoilguy" forum.

Cheers.

DEWFPO

[Toledo FJ]

i just checked the trufilter website to get the number so I can talk to them and i saw that they are starting a discussion forum on oil filtration. Maybe able to find some good info there in the future once it gets going and grows in membership. The trufilter doesn't have a bypass valve so it isn't an issue for me regardless, but thanks for the info. I'll post up tomorrow whatever I find out. take car guys.

[NoHandleBars]

If I see solid proof that the Truflow or Purepower filters more effecitvely than my cellulose media K&N, then I'm sold. Until then, I'll sit back and wait. If Truflow says "Oh it does" without a true-chart comparison...yeah...no go.

[XDodgeFJ2]

Running royal purple, using K/N"prechargers" over dual spectre cones, and the Bosch filter , my oil would be darker at change time(every 3-4000),or change time would be shortened(I'll change it early if its gettin ugly) then after switching to K/N. If I'm just sucking cabin air, it does last longer, but does still darken considerably-which I attribute to temp as my foot is heavy, and our humidity is a m/f. I'll drop some onto paper towels(the oil spreads out and the solids make a "target").No obvious metal after the first 2-3 changes, that would change I'm sure if went longer between changes. Now I'll ask a possibly stupid question,is there any benefit to running some clean oil(2 quarts) through the engine(start, stop redrain),prior to changing out the filter and refilling w/oil? This was suggested to me by a friend out west
who does it regularly as part of "his war on dust/sludge"....I may be wasting time , but dam# if doesn't pick up more trash. The spot test reveals smaller "targets" by half, but still a lot of solids obviously in suspension.

[NoHandleBars]

I just noticed something that the tru-filter DESPERATELY needs.... a nut on the top of it. Why the hell would they have a reusable filter without a nut for easy and safe removal? Isn't anybody learning from K&N here? >.<

[XDodgeFJ2]

YEP-Gotta love that nut.

[Toledo FJ]

not sure why you think you need a nut for easy removal. The Trufilter is extremely easy to remove and service. I just use a little craftsman rubber strap wrench and it is all good. you can either leave the base on and just remove the top or if you want you can place the strap at the bottom if you need to pull the entire filter for some reason. I just leave the base in place, unscrew the top and pluck out the filter screen. It is really easy and fun (IMO) to service these filters. So no need for any nuts.

I called yesterday but missed them by a few minutes. I tried calling pure power to see what they say but they are out of the office until wed. due to a death in the family. I'll keep you updated as soon as I get some good info to share!

[NoHandleBars]

Originally Posted by Toledo FJ

not sure why you think you need a nut for easy removal. The Trufilter is extremely easy to remove and service. I just use a little craftsman rubber strap wrench and it is all good. you can either leave the base on and just remove the top or if you want you can place the strap at the bottom if you need to pull the entire filter for some reason. I just leave the base in place, unscrew the top and pluck out the filter screen. It is really easy and fun (IMO) to service these filters. So no need for any nuts.

I called yesterday but missed them by a few minutes. I tried calling pure power to see what they say but they are out of the office until wed. due to a death in the family. I'll keep you updated as soon as I get some good info to share!

First off, strap wrenches can be a hastle, and often if have to go buy one (most people don't own strap wrenches) secondly, it's far more convient and easier to take off the filter via the nut on the TOP of the filter and you don't risk damaging it. If the strap wrench dosen't work (they won't produce as much torque as a normal wrench) then you have a problem. You use clamps on it, then that "lifetime filter" is done.

[Toledo FJ]

Well, I can tell you from personal experience that it isn't an issue. As I said before, it is very easy to remove and service the filter. I don't know how the design of the top nut works to hold on the filter, but I have only seen them on solid case, disposable filters. The Trufilter and its competitors have three peices. The base, the case, and the filter. I don't know if the nut design would work with a filter that comes apart, although I'm sure it could be designed to function with one.
You can get a strap wrench at any auto parts store or hardware store for less than $5. They are a good thing to have in your tool box regardless of the filter you use. You are only supposed to tighten the filter on using your hands anyhow, so it shouldn't be so tight you'd have troubble removing it. If you overtighten your filter, you'll crush the o-ring that makes the seal and you'll get leaks. I don't know about the nut design, so I can't speak on it, but I assure you that the Trufilter doesn't desperately need one because it works just fine as is. I've now changed the oil and cleaned the filter 5 times and it has been a breeze every time and I haven't had any leaks. DEWFPO pointed this post out to me about Royal Purple plugging the TruFilter. Check out post # 39 in this link :
http://forum.ih8mud.com/fj-cruiser/2...ml#post3324280

I know this doesn't provide any data, but the fact that Royal Purple suggests using Trufilter is one more peice of circumstancial evidence for their quality and effectiveness. I should be able to get through to Trufilter and or Pure Power today to get some real data.

I don't doubt that the top nut is a good design that makes things easier, but IMO making something that is already very easy, even easier isn't a huge improvement. Don't take that the wrong way... I agree that the top nut is a superior design for the type of filter you use. I just don't know if it would be applicable on these filters.

[Toledo FJ]

OOOPS! I didn't see that you were # 40 in that thread! I don't think we are arguing ! Just trying to get to the bottom of an interesting topic .

While I didn't talk to the compaines directly yet, I did do a little looking around about SS filters in general. I just found that they are fairly common in NASCAR, formula one teams, offroad racing teams, and racing bikes on and off road. But I will not rest until we get some solid data to compare against. I also found a thread on another fourm for some sports car and a woman had changed from Mobile 1 to Trufilter. She claims to have send samples of her oil after running each filter and she said the Trufilter was cleaner. She didn't provide any specific data, but made the claims nonetheless.

[NYCTRD]

OMG-I don't know if I've learned anything from this thread.

I have a feeling that since I use the OEM filter and change the oil & filter (not synthetic) every 3-k...I'm OK.

The K.I.S.S. philosophy!

[Brock]

best you can do is read a little information....study the options...and form your own conclusion. if you read too much or listen to too many people you will never figure out what is best....too much personal opinion out there. LOL

[Toledo FJ]

Originally Posted by NYCTRD

OMG-I don't know if I've learned anything from this thread.

I have a feeling that since I use the OEM filter and change the oil & filter (not synthetic) every 3-k...I'm OK.

The K.I.S.S. philosophy!

You're right, if you change the oil and filter regularly, you will be 100% fine and your engine should run as long as you want to keep it.

I haven't learned anything yet either, which is why I'm having various filters, including TruFilter, Lab tested. It will take a while to get results, but you should feel like you learned something when it is all done.

[NYCTRD]

If you change the oil more often (whether a high quality standard or synthetic oil) it';s going to get dirty. So why not spend 1/2 as much on the oil and filter and simply change it every 3-k.

I don't buy the "use synthetic and get 10-k out of it" way of doing it.

The same contaminats are going to get in there anyway, and the sooner they're flushed...the better IMHO.

Plus I remember the old daze of points, condensors & cetrifugal timing advances! In those days it was an oil & fileter ever 30k. And even my dicey Italian cars ran well over 200-k.

Toyota sez: The AT fludi should last the liftime of the x-mission.

I say: that LIFETIME may be doubled if you flush it every 50-k!!


PRECIOUS BODILY FLUIDS MUST REMAIN PURE-Don't forget Dr. Strangelove