6" lift for the fjc

[modified cruiser]

who's got one installed and by whom did the get it for and how much??? would you have done it for what clearance space you gained???

[FJinFredericksburg]

I have one installed, did it myself and posted the whole process on another board. I bought mine soon as it was released from RC last Sept. I gained the height I needed to make the 35's clear everything.

[Lemony]

Pro comp stage 2 2400$ for the kit, 600 to rent stall w lift for a week took me about 18 hours

back spacing is a pain, need <4" and trench wheels are 6 so I have 2" spacers on the front but I wanted all black spokes that get the covered wagon wheel look. My 325 50 22 still rub a little + I need to chop the frame back some more on the drivers side. 295 70 17 mt's clear everything.

[modified cruiser]

Great news to hear others are getting lifted. With back spacing an issue I'm wondering if my walker evans bead lock with 3 3/4" backspacing with MTX mickey thompsons will work with the RC 17 x 9.5? These wheels are the wrong size for the procomp that is stating only the 18" rims will work.

[jumper540]

I just got the rc installed, parts and labor $2250. if you dont have 4 5/8 back spacing or more your wheels will not fit. ii went through three sets that the shop said would fit before i got a set to fit right. the wheels are helo 957's.

[jumper540]

also with pro comp they have to cut lots of the frame, rc 100% bolt on.

[jumper540]

Here is the new rig. performs great on and offroad.

6 inch Rough Country lift kit
35x12.50x17
Helo 957 wheels
Nitto Mud grappler tires
Spare tire carrier spacer from warrior
new headers
new cold air TRD intake system

[XDodgeFJ2]

I have the 5.5 Procomp w/bilsteins, and am running 35"Khumo MT's on Moto metal 18x9.5". This kit keeps the angles and dangles w/ t case/third membersand steering in stock as engineered set up.This requires the removal of a 6"section of the second frame x member to drop the front third member. This gives me 13 1/2" clearance from cradle to ground. The stock frame attachmentears and gussets are roughly 1/8", and the cradle framing is 3/16's with lots of metal. To "go back" to stock, the section is rewelded in place. You can increase your travel with upper a arm replacements, and new bump stops(air or hyd).Currently I do rub in front occaisionally with full turn/suspension compression-at the rear inside(frame nubs) of wheel wells.Shortening the rear bumps keeps therear down at speed over stutter bumps and SMALL drops....While I've put this kit through the ringer-I would say the weak link will be the outer lower a-arm @ball joint attachments-and I wouldn't seriously submit it to baja race conditions.I'm sure I've left something out here....real happy with it so far.

[NoHandleBars]

Random question, is there ANY logical benefit to these current 6" lifts compared to the high-end Icon, Walker Evans, and even OME lifts? Or is it just for looks? Why not go for a long-travel?

[XDodgeFJ2]

For the ICON, i WOULD SAY COST.Otherwords, it allows larger tire size and better clearance.You should look at going wider the more you go go upper, so to speak. Just going upper with spacers as a back up, lends you to the tippy side of things. My "hi-center" factor was greatly improved-some from the lift, some from the new tire size. Nothing is free though, and your mods to suspension and lift should be carefully considered as to application.I'm 4 inches wider, 5.5 inches higher, with bilstiens and hyd bumps to boot, the result was much beter offroad handling, no extra angular stress on the drive lines/axles except tire size(ie- no extreme drive line angles vs designed ), and it drive good on road.With any lift, your center of gravity goes up quicker in proportion to width , so there will always be a compromise.Do it wisely, and you will be quite satisfied, if you just want to be as high as a 8 inch lifted F250, well............NO COMMENT.

[NoHandleBars]

Originally Posted by XDodgeFJ2

For the ICON, i WOULD SAY COST.Otherwords, it allows larger tire size and better clearance.You should look at going wider the more you go go upper, so to speak. Just going upper with spacers as a back up, lends you to the tippy side of things. My "hi-center" factor was greatly improved-some from the lift, some from the new tire size. Nothing is free though, and your mods to suspension and lift should be carefully considered as to application.I'm 4 inches wider, 5.5 inches higher, with bilstiens and hyd bumps to boot, the result was much beter offroad handling, no extra angular stress on the drive lines/axles except tire size(ie- no extreme drive line angles vs designed ), and it drive good on road.With any lift, your center of gravity goes up quicker in proportion to width , so there will always be a compromise.Do it wisely, and you will be quite satisfied, if you just want to be as high as a 8 inch lifted F250, well............NO COMMENT.

More clearance? How is this more clearance than a 3" with 33s? You're dropping your differential. You're not getting any more clearance. I have spacers now, but will be going with Toytec 3" Coil-overs and 1" Spidertrax spacers in the wheels. I can't see the point of the 6" however I'd love to see a direct comparison. I know on the "FJCRUISERFORUMS" everyone there keeps looking down on them saying they aren't needed. I think they look really good, but I can't see the practicality in it.

[XDodgeFJ2]

Its a trade off either way, third member clearance is probably close to the same. My objectives were
to get really good approach and departure angles, and get a good high center clearance. Without actually measuring the angles, my lower radiator x-member is 20" from axle ,23" off the ground, and with roughly 9' from axle to axle, my center clearance is 20". There is PLENTY metal in front, and under the front third member for protection, incase you end up straddling a rock(usually, I'll get rubber on that rock and thats that...). The rear third member has 11 1/2" in the center, and my hitch is 33" out from same and clears 22". While I have had contact a few times on sharp break overs at the top of steep inclines, it was minimal. My drive line angles remain as engineered, so there is not elevated wear and tear here with daily driving, and that lower a arm ball joint connection(take a look at the fabbed angle change and taper just inside of the actual b/j mount) is not constantly under greater load due to the angle change. I would definately NOT go higher, and if I was gonna go somewhere that required lots of borderline sidehill angles I would throw on some 33x13'5's....if I can find some way to get 'em into the
back shed without someone else catching me. Until then, we'll see what breaks first, and go from there....

[XDodgeFJ2]

How did the numbers compare with the 3" OME/33"'s, compare to the 5.5" an 35"'s?