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Old 05-11-08, 07:45 PM   #61
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slickrock View Post
bolt i thorugh and use marine grade grommets to keep the rain out.
You mean like the ones on page 3662 here: McMaster-Carr ?

Thanks,

Al


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Old 05-12-08, 03:03 PM   #62
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no idea. your link is for the main page.


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Old 05-12-08, 10:01 PM   #63
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no idea. your link is for the main page.
Put 3662 in the search bar, it will take you to the catalog page; the grommets are at the top of the page.


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Old 05-13-08, 09:15 AM   #64
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If you are putting it on a 60, 80, or 100 series with a metal roof, it should be OK if you distribute the moutning points accross the hood and keep the weight to a reasonable weight. But on a 40 series, the fiberglass top isn't meant for load bearing.

Those seasl should work great.

I had a conferr rack on a Cherokee I was messing with as a tota trail beater and it held up great mounted to the roof. It never leaked or had any issues. I didin't use gutter mounts because I needed to get it into the garage and it would have been an 1' too tall so the roof was the only way I could mount it.


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Old 06-16-08, 01:06 AM   #65
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Here is a picture of my roof rack, mounting bracets I made and a link in my sig to more plus a plan (I think)





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Old 06-17-08, 06:49 AM   #66
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Great idea on the RR clamps! Looks solid!
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Old 06-30-08, 11:49 AM   #67
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would 4-5'' of clearance over the roof and below the rack be excesive?

what is the norm? 2-3''s?


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Old 06-30-08, 11:52 AM   #68
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I say 2-3 inches is good if your rack isn't deflecting enough to hit the roof when fully loaded. A lower mount also reduces noise and drag.


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Old 06-30-08, 03:22 PM   #69
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i'm curious, what is the weight of your home made roof racks?



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