Expedition BJ74 Buildup

[lowenbrau]

Don’t get too excited, this buildup is bound to be quite a bit slower than those found in other sections. Fortunately, in the 70 series section I shouldn’t have to bump the thread too often to keep it on the front page

The truck:
NAME: Random (daughter of Arthur Dent)
1987 BJ74LX 173,000km originally imported by Luxury Imports, Sold to me by Snowking

The parts donor:
NAME: Ol Smokey
1986 BJ74VX 250,000km Formerly Crushers’ trail rig

The Plan:
To create an expedition rig equally at home on the Alaska Highway or the Rubicon. The goal is to find the fine line between off road ability and on road drivability, even if I have to spend the price of a tow rig to do it. I have accumulated most of the parts to assemble the rig but have no shop to do it in anymore. Most of the fabrication will have to be outsourced.

Front axle;
60 series axle, sprung over, shackle reversed, out boarded springs. 4x4 labs steering arms, DOM rods, hydraulic assist, 4Runner calipers. 80 series locking diff modified to air actuation. Custom axles and Longfields.

Rear axle;
60 series FF, 4 link on airbags, factory cable locker modified to air actuation. Custom axles.

Drivetrain;
Stock for this year, dialed up boost and fuel. Marlin Toybox to follow.

Accessories;
Technitop roof top tent, 24V Waeco Fridge/freezer, Webasto diesel heater, CB, Ham, 24V Cat radio. Drawer system, RMM onboard shower&shower tent.

Bumpers;
Custom home built. Front has mounting for winch and IPF lights. Rear will have facilities for mounting spare, fuel cans, high lift.

Winch;
Hydraulic Superwinch. Powered by PTO hydraulic pump 11.2 gal/min, 200ft Amsteel blue

Tires;
Off-road. 11.2x16 (37.5”) Titan Tractor tires on custom 16x10 3”BS Steel rims.
On Road (undecided) probably 38/14.5-16 Toyo Open Country MT on 16x10 4”BS (aluminum) rims

Trailer;
1990 M101cdn s/o 35” tires for hauling tractor tires to trailhead when required.

[Deny]

Any before Pics?
Cheers,
Deny

[crushers]

engine too small for long distance traveling with 38" boots??

[lowenbrau]

Deny, yeah I'll add some before pictures tonight.

Wayne: I'm gamblng the 13BT is capable of doing as well on 38s as the 3B in my last rig did on 35s. I don't think an expedition rig needs to cruise faster than 110kph.
I'm not complete settled on those 38s for the road, though, but the next size smaller is less than 35. If Toyo made a 36 I'd be all over that.

[Tapage]

Originally Posted by Deny

Any before Pics?
Cheers,
Deny

With trailer ..

And why not keep the cable system for lockers .. ?

[lowenbrau]

Originally Posted by Tapage

With trailer ..

And why not keep the cable system for lockers .. ?

I don't have "the cable system" and I already modified the electric front to air so it seemed like the right thing to make the rear match. Those nifty cable locker handles and bracketry amount to big bucks if you try to buy them seperately from a truck.

[crushers]

Originally Posted by lowenbrau

Deny, yeah I'll add some before pictures tonight.

Wayne: I'm gamblng the 13BT is capable of doing as well on 38s as the 3B in my last rig did on 35s. I don't think an expedition rig needs to cruise faster than 110kph.
I'm not complete settled on those 38s for the road, though, but the next size smaller is less than 35. If Toyo made a 36 I'd be all over that.

i got a set of 35" street tires if that would work...
hint hint.

[Greg_B]

Originally Posted by lowenbrau

Don’t get too excited, this buildup is bound to be quite a bit slower than those found in other sections. Fortunately, in the 70 series section I shouldn’t have to bump the thread too often to keep it on the front page :

Nice build plans Bruce. Sounds somewhat the same as I've be contemplating for my BJ74...

I've got the rear storage pretty much built, but needs some finishing. Exo-cage wanted as well, with an X though the roof behind the seats, but I've not come up with a good solution for water proofness when coming through the FRP top.

I've been debating the 3rd battery for 12V draws, the ARB fridge, laptop..etc and really like Peters 3rd gel-cell at the front. Have you thought about making the room somewhere for a dedicated deep cycle to isolate the starting system? I've also thought about a solar charge system for the 3rd...for long stays. That said, the solar converter set to run only in load balance mode when the truck is running worked well, and we had a lap-top, battery charger, sat stereo, CB, etc running during the trip to Alaska with no issues at all...but this does not isolate the starting system which is imo the goal in any rig you want to use off the road for a few days (or even as acamping weekend rig).

I was thinking some 80 series RHD locked axles on coils, but your 60 series with the rear linked and the front SR would suffice...for sure, and the spec'd inner and outer axles. Whatever links the rear...make sure it is trail proven.

Body lift in mind to assist clearing those tires?

I've plans to include my Cdn spec military trailer too, and have been watching your build. Roof-top tent, flip lid, water, fuel, parts, battery, cooking platform added to what you have done, as well as a couple other folks on this forum...

At the pace I work right now, you will be bringing the page to the front much more then I...

On a more positive note...Poo seems sorted...just needed some loving care by dr_rob...

With my truck weighted down for Alaska (just shy of 7000lbs), and running the 35x16 SSR's on steel rims I was maintaining highway speeds on the flats and most hills (that's LC highway speeds). The large hills slowed me down due to EGT's, with dump set at 10.5psi or so. I think the DI 13BT will handle scads more, but you would then need to consider an intercooler or some other system that would cool down the intake air and increase density and/or amount of O2. I must say...the 13BT has NEVER run better then after that trip, and it was run hard for 60 hours there and 60 hours back.

gb

[PacToy]

Originally Posted by lowenbrau

Don’t get too excited, this buildup is bound to be quite a bit slower than those found in other sections. Fortunately, in the 70 series section I shouldn’t have to bump the thread too often to keep it on the front page

The truck:
NAME: Random (daughter of Arthur Dent)
1987 BJ74LX 173,000km originally imported by Luxury Imports, Sold to me by Snowking

The parts donor:
NAME: Ol Smokey
1986 BJ74VX 250,000km Formerly Crushers’ trail rig

The Plan:
To create an expedition rig equally at home on the Alaska Highway or the Rubicon. The goal is to find the fine line between off road ability and on road drivability, even if I have to spend the price of a tow rig to do it. I have accumulated most of the parts to assemble the rig but have no shop to do it in anymore. Most of the fabrication will have to be outsourced.

Front axle;
60 series axle, sprung over, shackle reversed, out boarded springs. 4x4 labs steering arms, DOM rods, hydraulic assist, 4Runner calipers. 80 series locking diff modified to air actuation. Custom axles and Longfields.

Rear axle;
60 series FF, 4 link on airbags, factory cable locker modified to air actuation. Custom axles.

Drivetrain;
Stock for this year, dialed up boost and fuel. Marlin Toybox to follow.

Accessories;
Technitop roof top tent, 24V Waeco Fridge/freezer, Webasto diesel heater, CB, Ham, 24V Cat radio. Drawer system, RMM onboard shower&shower tent.

Bumpers;
Custom home built. Front has mounting for winch and IPF lights. Rear will have facilities for mounting spare, fuel cans, high lift.

Winch;
Hydraulic Superwinch. Powered by PTO hydraulic pump 11.2 gal/min, 200ft Amsteel blue

Tires;
Off-road. 11.2x16 (37.5”) Titan Tractor tires on custom 16x10 3”BS Steel rims.
On Road (undecided) probably 38/14.5-16 Toyo Open Country MT on 16x10 4”BS (aluminum) rims

Trailer;
1990 M101cdn s/o 35” tires for hauling tractor tires to trailhead when required.

Bruce, I'm not excited. Let me help you out a bit.

Truck is a BJ74. Damn good truck to start with but a expedition vehicle? Ok, well, lets go from there BJ74 expedition vehicle for the Rubicon or Alaska..

Take your BJ74 and do a good solid SOA on it. I agree with a good steering system. 4x4Labs will handle it all that you mentioned. Re-enforce your frame where the power steering box is!!!

Hit up your front axle with a bit of chromoly axles and birfs (30 spline) in the front( 27 spline chromoly birfs will work fine too). In the rear get a good set of drive plate studs for the rear.. Need a rear traction bar for sure. Everything else will be ok.

13B-T with with 40" radials will be fine. 13B-T with bias plys no bigger than 38". 4.88 gear change. You will be fine with no trailer required. Will not be a speed machine but it will keep up.

Put breather tubes everywhere. Hit all points.

If need be go to Downey and order your cables for you lockers. IMO do not put a non-mechanical system into the picture. Downey will custom make the cables for you if you ask them.

IMO your plans are way too jiggy. You can get that 74 to work like a charm and still be drivable at NA highway speeds. Spend the rest of your monies on making it a happy vehicle for your comfort.


Just My Opinion.

Regards,

Randy

[lowenbrau]

Finally, I have added some before pictures to the original post.

Thanks for the comments, y'all. Your input helps more than you know. I've gotten a few raised eyebrows about the fourlink plan and want to justify it. Rear springovers need trac bars or pinion breakage is inevitable on a heavy truck. A trac bar forces the leaf to act as the lower link and in ends up in compression and after a few hard trips (like the Rubicon) you wind up having to swap leafs. I know somebody will jump in and tell me how their truck has done lots of wheeling and never broke a pinion or turned the leafs s shaped but I'd be surprised if they also told me the rig weighed more than 3 tons. With all that in mind I watched as my shopmate, Shaker, built and then rebuilt his 4link to make it work flawlessly. The pinion is always at the designed angle, the antisquat is calculated, the bags allow full performance through the entire load range. The Rubicon Express ends are field servicable, widely available and severe use proven. The added bonus is that it can be used for leveling when you are camping on the roof A reliable air sytem is a design requirement for this rig and as a result I feel less concerned about air actuation of the lockers even though I've never had any luck with air lockers.

This truck, thankfully, came with a few upgrades. The solar converter is already there (I'll have to modify the wiring to the latest Stone version) and it has boost and pyro guages already installed.

The following pics show two rigs I have spent a lot of time with and you can see the 4link working perfectly and the s/o crying out for mercy. To the credit of the leafs, they are still working today though somewhat curved.

[Tapage]

Originally Posted by lowenbrau

I don't have "the cable system" and I already modified the electric front to air so it seemed like the right thing to make the rear match. Those nifty cable locker handles and bracketry amount to big bucks if you try to buy them seperately from a truck.

I thought you have the hole system .. and change it to air ..

[lowenbrau]

Originally Posted by Tapage

I thought you have the hole system .. and change it to air ..

No, it would be dumb of me to move away from the cable lockers if I had the whole system.

[lowenbrau]

And for those that don't know, here is my previous rig, Arthur Dent. A CDM 86BJ70LX. Wheeled in Alaska, California, Washington, BC, AB, SK, MB, ON ... never trailered. It's now parted out and a fair amount of the goodies are going into the new rig.

Also a couple pics of my latest trail trailer. It suffices while I wait for the expedition rig to complete.

[Josie'sLandCruiser]

Hi All:

Wow Bruce! Big project!

I'd have to agree with Randy's comments, but that is not much of a surprise considering my lack of awe for fancy suspensions.

I take it that Peter's SOA BJ74 does not impress you with its performance?

Regards,

Alan

[bj70_guy]

Well, you KNOW I'm excited to watch this truck come together!
I don't have anything to add that you didn't already know 10 years ago. Sounds like your plans have gone a little further (and gotten a little bigger) than when we talked before christmas (hey, you never came back for sushi!), and certainly a lot further than "I promised myself no bigger than 35s!"

[Radd Cruisers]

I have wheeled little, but the little I have seen makes me want four link only.


I only see advantages.


Past weekend, two broken leaf packs, replaced and broke again.

[Tapage]

Originally Posted by Radd Cruisers

Past weekend, two broken leaf packs, replaced and broke again.

but the hole pack . .. ?

I recently broke my master leaf .. after 8 years of hard wheeling ( 3 years SO ) but the hole pack .. wou !

[Greg_B]

Originally Posted by lowenbrau

No, it would be dumb of me to move away from the cable lockers if I had the whole system.

Ya, that is why I am really undecided about the RHD locked 81 axles...but 60 series locked are getting harder and harder and harder...and

I've felt the front lift a few times and had to turn downhill, and they were not extreme sidehills. I did have a fair bit of weight up top, but was also running 1.5" spacers on each side, so in effect had the width of 60 series axles.

If your going to the trouble of linking the rear, why not link the front too?

I've got my fridge mounted on the drawer system. Puts more weight up higher, but to place at floor level take up a lot of potential storage space. If you're trying to minimize weight up high consider somewhere else.

I am very glad I built an easily accessed storage area behind the seats as part of the rear bin. It comes in very handy when treking and packed up.

As you know from your 70, the dash is nice and flat and becomes a collection spot. I found when you need defrost you have to move everything...to...well that's the issue. While it looks dorky, a shelf built from side to side across the top of the windshield would be a boon. Just make sure it has padding and does not come out too far.

Consider moving the seat mounting system back 3".

There's more, but have to run.

hth's

gb

[PacToy]

You mean something like this?

Rock Crawl event in Kyoto, Japan.
PZJ-7?

A Rock Crawler not an expedition rig, sorry.

[lowenbrau]

[quote=PacToy;
A Rock Crawler not an expedition rig, sorry.[/QUOTE]

Watch and learn, Grasshopper

[PacToy]

Originally Posted by lowenbrau

Watch and learn, Grasshopper

Well, best post up pics as you go, Turdburglar.

I should charge you money for that pic. I had to push Stedman's HZJ-79 down a rest area parking lot in the rain to get there. Alt took a shit.

Randy

[lowenbrau]

To answer your questions Greg:

I'm using 60 axles because they are what I've got. I like the idea of matching R+Ps and the aftermarket support is pretty good for them.

I'm used to the feeling for the front lifting and occasionally the back too. Some amount of armor will be prudent but I don't know how much. I need to hold the tent on the FRP and had though about just caging the interior and bolting a roof rack through it. I have a spare top at the moment so I might just do that.

Linking the rear is primarily to solve three problems. 1) Wrecked leafs, 2) Broken pinions and 3) variable load. I could solve 3 by just adding bags to the top of stock leafs but the links are not going to add much $ to the equation will solve 1 and 2 in the process. The front is much more difficult if you don't want King Coils sticking up above your hood and there are fewer benefits.

Thanks for the fridge comments, I think the spare does more of the same. It’s a reality. The trick is going to be packing with as much weight low as possible. The advantage to the bags here is they can be slammed for stability and COG concerns on the road.

Totally agree on the cabin storage. I'm willing to sacrifice drawer length to make sure this happens.

Seats will likely be more Supra ones and will be positioned back, as you say.

Cheers,
Bruce

Originally Posted by Greg_B

Ya, that is why I am really undecided about the RHD locked 81 axles...but 60 series locked are getting harder and harder and harder...and

I've felt the front lift a few times and had to turn downhill, and they were not extreme sidehills. I did have a fair bit of weight up top, but was also running 1.5" spacers on each side, so in effect had the width of 60 series axles.

If your going to the trouble of linking the rear, why not link the front too?

I've got my fridge mounted on the drawer system. Puts more weight up higher, but to place at floor level take up a lot of potential storage space. If you're trying to minimize weight up high consider somewhere else.

I am very glad I built an easily accessed storage area behind the seats as part of the rear bin. It comes in very handy when treking and packed up.

As you know from your 70, the dash is nice and flat and becomes a collection spot. I found when you need defrost you have to move everything...to...well that's the issue. While it looks dorky, a shelf built from side to side across the top of the windshield would be a boon. Just make sure it has padding and does not come out too far.

Consider moving the seat mounting system back 3".

There's more, but have to run.

hth's

gb