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Old 12-09-05, 07:50 PM   #1 (permalink)
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2H into '88 FJ62, advice

Hey there,
I am trying to convert my '88 FJ62 with a 3F-E to diesel as reasonably as possible. From reading other threads, I believe that the 2H will match with the A440 tranny that is already in the truck. Is that correct? I believe I read it in reference to a 2F to 2H conversion, is it the same for a 3F to 2H? How about for a 12HT?

Are the engine mounts the same? is this a "drop-in" conversion?

How about making the 12V to 24V translation? Can the 2H be run on 12V? Seems I read this somewhere, maybe it was a different spec. engine?. Any advice would be appreciated.

What are the mandatory peripherals that I will need? I am trying to get a 2H from a truck that is getting a 12HT, which leaves me wondering how many of the peripherals the seller would be parting with??? ie what is a mandatory replacement for the 12HT and what is reusable in the 12HT ?

Thanks for any and all advice!
Gavin


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Old 12-10-05, 10:20 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Hi Gav The 2H radiator has outlets that are opposite to the F radiatior .The tranny should bolt up no problems but 2H automatics are not common in ,so tracking down a radiator with a built in oil cooler might not be easy except in Japan
Probably easier to get a radiator from a manual 2H and fit an aftermarket cooler
All diesel landcruisers inc the 2H are 12v in Australia. I think they start on 24 v but run on 12V There is a fair bit of commonality between the 2H and 12HT as they share the same block.
A lot of "peripherals" such as power steering pump and fuel filter (I think)are bolted to the H engines so if they are on the 12HT then they will hopefully come your way with the 2H

Engine mounts will be ok,exhaust ok. The old fuel line to the expansion chamber will be your new fuel tank breather
Try the search function,there have been sEveral discusssions recently on 2H swaps.

Should be the easiest engine swap you can do on a 60/62

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Old 12-10-05, 04:35 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Rosco-
Thanks for the info... why not use the existing 3F radiator? and an aftermarket oil cooler? I am dealing with an NA spec FJ62 and a Canadian 2H. How hard is it to convert the 24V 2H to 12v?

I've been trying the search function but have come up with more questions than answers. Thanks for the help, I need it!

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Old 12-11-05, 01:54 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Well I suppose you could use the old radiator but I like the hoses as short as possible.

The 2H as far as I know uses a 24v starter motor and runs on 12v for the oil pressure,temp sender .
So in theory you will just need a 12v diesel starter,try aussie ebay they always seem to pop up on there.
There is still the tacho and glowplugs to sort out as well.
The F tacho gets its signl from the coil,the 2h has a pick up on the flywheel so the old tacho may not work on a diesel.
For the glow plugs Im using a simple 12vset up where I hold the button down for 5-10 seconds in the morning.There are timers available
You will need the 2H alternator as it has the vac pump to run the power braake booster
I havent seen too many 24v jobs so Im hoping the canucks who have can chime in

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Old 12-11-05, 06:18 AM   #5 (permalink)
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i have a very solid used 2H rad sitting here if you need it...

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Old 12-11-05, 08:48 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Colorado bound radiator.

Quote:
Originally Posted by crushers
i have a very solid used 2H rad sitting here if you need it...
Hopefully you can bring it to Colorado with my motor How about the alternator, power steering pump and fuel filter? What else will be attached to the 2H or unused by the 12HT transplant ? I pm'd you.

How about the tachometer that rosco mentioned? got a spare?

Also curious about how the 24v to 12v conversion works, I have read much about the Solar converter, is that the simplest solution in both install and maintenance terms?

Sorry for all the newbie questions, inexperienced but committed and eager. I will order the HJ60 shop manual so that I can answer so more of these on my own.

best, Gavin

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Old 12-11-05, 12:20 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Hey Gavin!

What's up buddy! Good to see that you are on the board. John, here. The Cruiser guy as people refer to me, the one with the Cummins 60 in Carbondale.

Are you planning to turbo that 2H. Be aware that it is not the best to turbo as it has no bottom end piston cooling. It cannot tolerat a lot of boost. If you are not going to turbo, it will be very sluggish especially at our altitude.

Also, you would greatly benefit from a Overdrive transmission. You will not see the best fuel economy nor highway speeds with the 2H/A440 combo especially if you are not turbo'd.

I know that you are trying to do this as cheap as possible but, make sure you are getting what you want out of your truck.

Good luck. Ask a lot of questions and use the Search feature. You'll find the right option best for you.
John

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Old 12-11-05, 02:42 PM   #8 (permalink)
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back in town?

Hey John-
Great to hear from you! I saw you and Mitzi rolling down Main St. last week. Such a nice Rig!!!!! Welcome back to town.

I have been reading a bunch- one of your recent threads has been really insightful. http://forum.ih8mud.com/diesel-tech-24-volts-systems/63774-toyota-diesel.html

What I really want is perfectly restored late 80's *j60 with a 12HT or 13BT and a WVO system, but that sounds like about $15-17K.

What I have is a FJ62 with 217K on a 3FE & A440 with rust at the wheel wells and needing a coat of paint, but good interior and rust free frame. Ok I should have bought your 3B/H55 a few months back, but I did not know enough then!!!

So here are my thoughts.... please check them for me.

Limitation #1.....Must be inexpensive and/or doable by the inexperienced (me). So it has to be easy and need a min. of parts.
#2 Preferably doable in increments, rather than big lumps.

So I am neither a power nor speed junky, but am more interested in fuel efficiency and WVO systems- mind you I would love an overdrive at some point, but could live without for a year or so if need be (H55 in the future?). I have read several comments that the 2H is a fairly efficient engine and I have seen it fairly cheap (1-2,000), also that it is able to be turbo'd just not pushed very hard. Also, it is simple as I can reuse the existing transmission for the moment.

A 12HT would be fantastic, but $5K and scarce seems to be the order of the day for those. The 3B(t) and 13BT seems to share the same fate.

Am I deluding myself in eagerness to get something going?

If you are around, let's have a beer- my treat / your knowledge.

Gavin

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Old 12-11-05, 07:39 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Gavin,
Yep, I know your Cruiser. I am assuming that you bought Randall's right? I am back in town for awhile. Well, I should say that I will be around. Mitzi and I sold our house and we are now in limbo. I will be in and out of Carbondale but will be mostly in Paonia and hangin' out at Proffitt's for a few months. I have decided to build up a Cruiser that I have had awhile. And then, I'm done! I promise.

Are you set on using a Toyota diesel or are you exploring other options? A GM diesel might be an option for you. They are readily available and adaptors are available to mate to your A440. The 2H is a good engine, don't get me wrong. But again, they were only brought to Canada for a few years. Parts are available for them, but you may wait a week or more for them.

If you do go with the 2H option, I would recommend finding an HJ60 in Canada that is rusted out but still driveable. Get it down here to Colorado and we'll throw that puppy in your 62. I might even give you a few bucks for the H55F 5 speed if it comes with one. That way you see how it is all wired up and have all the small parts to make it a clean installation.

I'll be around Bone'dale primarily on the weekends. I'll take you up on that beer!

John

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Old 12-12-05, 12:39 AM   #10 (permalink)
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You can get the 2h/ 12HT engine manual online at birfield.com- I think this is the address- http://www.birfield.com/downloads-cat-1.html

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Old 12-12-05, 12:52 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Keep in mind also you need a 2H alternator or, aftermarket ( external ) vacum pump ..

My 2H engine are all around 12V and the PS pump have some tricky bracket bottom front the diesel pump.

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if you are achieveing the max boost then it isn't the boost that is going to kill your engine... it is your right foot.
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Old 12-12-05, 09:46 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Thanks for the Manual connection

jzmq Thanks for the manual link! I had not found those.

Tapage- I'm hoping it comes with alternator, but not sure yet.Thanks

Grease- Are you thinking the GM 6.2? Been pretty committed to Toyota, but will poke around looking at that conversion- I have only found one so far http://home.earthlink.net/~joemama1/LC.html the price is right $75!!!!! but the mileage is a little weak 17mpg- can't have everything. I'll pm you my cell number, give a call and the beer is on me.

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Old 12-12-05, 09:54 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grease Cruiser
Gavin,

If you do go with the 2H option, I would recommend finding an HJ60 in Canada that is rusted out but still driveable. Get it down here to Colorado and we'll throw that puppy in your 62. I might even give you a few bucks for the H55F 5 speed if it comes with one. That way you see how it is all wired up and have all the small parts to make it a clean installation.


John
Bruce lowen(lowenbrau) I think has a parts hj60 for sale.....................

I have seen mostly auto tran's on most cnd hJ60's . This could be just my experience. But they are almost all auto's that I have come accross.

I have not seen one CND hj60, in my limited experience with a manual tranny. Not saying we didn't get any...........but when I have looked around there tends to be mostly the auto's......weird eh?

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Old 12-13-05, 06:37 AM   #14 (permalink)
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BB, the HJ60 manual are here just in few numbers, i have seen a half dozen or so go through my shop...

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Old 12-13-05, 07:01 AM   #15 (permalink)
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[QUOTE=brownbear]Bruce lowen(lowenbrau) I think has a parts hj60 for sale.....................

I have seen mostly auto tran's on most cnd hJ60's .

Does this imply that the 2h is particularly well suited for the A440? or just a freak of importation? For those that do know the engine in auto's what is reasonable cruising speed? Any worse than my stock set up now- 60-70 mph? Is it/ should it be lower because of keeping rpm down for the diesel?

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Old 12-13-05, 07:17 AM   #16 (permalink)
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[QUOTE=gavin]
Quote:
Originally Posted by brownbear
Bruce lowen(lowenbrau) I think has a parts hj60 for sale.....................

I have seen mostly auto tran's on most cnd hJ60's .

Does this imply that the 2h is particularly well suited for the A440? or just a freak of importation? l
I guess its to do with the quirks of consumer tastes.

When HJ60 autos come up for sale in oz they usually advertise it as "rare" although they are more common behind the 12HT.

The HJ60 here was more of a work vehicle and fitted with a 5sp , barn doors and 3 seats in the front
This works out well for you

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Old 12-13-05, 09:24 PM   #17 (permalink)
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BB, the HJ60 manual are here just in few numbers, i have seen a half dozen or so go through my shop...

thats good to know. But you agree you have seen more autos?????? Maybe?

I did not want to say they did not come in manuals. But the ones I see for sale are mostly autos.........weird eh? I have not seen one manual for sale, not that I am searching non stop for hj60's for sale. Just refereing to when I purchased my BJ60.

Not an expert opinion here, but I think a 2h auto would cruise fine. And I see no problem turbo' it for low boost. In OZ they offer many turbo kits for it, so it must be OK. Everything non stock on any engine reduces engine life. That is life IMOP.

I also must mention for the OZ here, in Canada and the US almost all the vehicles sold currently and for the last 20 yrs are autos. only econo cars are manuals. Having a manual is generally looked upon as being "cheap".
Only really imports in recent times are manuals, or sports models.
for domestics they are almost all autos. trucks too. Toyota tundras with the V8 only come in autos. To get a standard you have to eliminate the v8 and 4x4. also choose the reg cab not the extended version.

Toyota sucks. They do not offer much choice.

GM ford and Dodge, probably only offer manuals on their trucks in stripped down versions too. Auto is the king here.

Ok history lesson over.

Install the 2h with your auto. Put in one of those turbo glide tranny kits, and turbo the engine, all will run nicely...........See the write ups on the tranny kits, there has been a few in here on it. The Dude did one and I think Greg_B. More on the Hj61 with the 12H-t and the auto....

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Old 12-14-05, 01:33 AM   #18 (permalink)
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I have seen mostly auto tran's on most cnd hJ60's . This could be just my experience. But they are almost all auto's that I have come accross.

I have not seen one CND hj60, in my limited experience with a manual tranny. Not saying we didn't get any...........but when I have looked around there tends to be mostly the auto's......weird eh?[/QUOTE]
I've found the exact opposite. All the HJs I've seen are 5spds and I haven't seen many with ATs .My HJ is a bit gutless with the 5spd and I really think it would be a lot worse with an AT. If you're decided about a 2H then I would look for an HJ that's rusted out with a 5spd but they still seem to ask around 5K Cdn. and those usually have around 400 km on them so you may have to rebuild it soon too. There's another 4K or so.
I'm rebuilding my 2H and swapping it into a rustfree FJ but only because I don't have much money and already have everything on hand otherwise I would buy a 12HT, although they are getting hard to find now.
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Old 12-14-05, 05:21 AM   #19 (permalink)
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Quote:
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Having a manual is generally looked upon as being "cheap".
....
How perceptions can differ Aussies think auto Landcruisers are ghay

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Old 12-14-05, 06:28 AM   #20 (permalink)
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Quote:
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thats good to know. But you agree you have seen more autos?????? Maybe?

....
nah, i would say 50/50. i wasn't trying to belittle your statement, i was just making one of my own.
a healthy 2H runs fine in front of manual or auto. i have one customer that has owned his since new, it has 500,000++ on it and it pulls strong. i had to pop the hood and check it out for myself whether he had turbo'd it or not. never rebuilt and the compression is perfect across the board. i was totally shocked to say the least.

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Old 12-14-05, 07:35 AM   #21 (permalink)
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The only issue with the auto tranny in a 2H powered TLC are the posibilities to upgrade tires without re-gearing ..

So here in Panama we have more manual than auto, the people perseption are about auto tranny are to slow in climbs or so ..

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if you are achieveing the max boost then it isn't the boost that is going to kill your engine... it is your right foot.
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Old 12-14-05, 08:16 AM   #22 (permalink)
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i always hated autos in the bush at least i thought i did. this past weekend taught me a diferent impression. when you take a run at the hill the tranny automaticly upshifts (duh!!) but without wheel spin and as you are climbing the hill it down shifts without wheel spin. this takes quite a skill to master with a manual....and you can over ride the auto.
i am begining to like driving the automatic...

cheers

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shit all flows down hill and pools around your feet. The object is to
keep shovelling it away. If the shit is gaining you better figure out
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Old 12-14-05, 05:46 PM   #23 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roscoFJ73
How perceptions can differ Aussies think auto Landcruisers are ghay

I know.....

My wife wanted here TDI Golf VW to be an auto, I did not. But She won as it was her car. And I tell ya, sitting in traffic for hours or just moving along, or light to light in the city.

Then I like the auto. The manual becomes too much work and hassle. For the town life here, I prefer the manual, it spices things up. Also feels nice in the mountains.

My experience towing boats out of the ocean or lakes I prefer autos too. Nothing worse than having to work the clutch to drag a 5-10 thousand pound boat out of the water.

Simply put, to me auto is easy(lazy) and manual is more fun, but can be more work in the city. And does not have the image of luxury in the high end vehicles.

That said, I would prefer a Land Cruiser with a manual. Depends on your driving.
Oh and the old myth that manuals are faster and get better mileage is now no longer a norm. Typical cars today are faster with autos as the trannys do better shifts, and with the smart computer controlled gearing and driver memory they produce better mileage numbers hands down. If you dont belieave me

Your loss.

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Old 12-16-05, 09:57 PM   #24 (permalink)
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Autos and other thoughts.

Needless to say I have been thinking about all of this ALOT and the more I read- the more varied the opinions. I have been driving thuggish, sluggish and slow cars for a while now...an '86 F250 and now this FJ62...and I am totally fine with it- a bit of a meditative practice really. Everyone passes me and there is nothing I can do about it!

Priority number one for me is a simple and inexpensive diesel conversion and I do not see a more straight forward conversion out there than the 2H into the vehicle I already have. I am sure that this is the first step in a growing addiction, sort of a twelve step program into addiction.... and that as soon as I have tasted the glory I will want more power, more speed, more sophistication .... but that is for years to come.

Thanks to all for their advice and thoughts and input- I'll post (with a million questions) when I actually start the conversion.

So Wayne is that 2H engine still around? Still available? If you could pm me we could discuss transport, radiators, starters, alternators, fuel pumps, etc.. meanwhile I'll be reading manuals and other threads.....

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Old 12-17-05, 04:26 AM   #25 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gavin

Priority number one for me is a simple and inexpensive diesel conversion and I do not see a more straight forward conversion out there than the 2H into the vehicle I already have. I am sure that this is the first step in a growing addiction, sort of a twelve step program into addiction.... and that as soon as I have tasted the glory I will want more power, more speed, more sophistication .... but that is for years to come.

..
I couldnt agree more. A simple conversion like this will get you driving a diesel a whole lot quicker with less cost and frustration.

When its all done you can begin to plan the next phase.
The auto will be fine.
The only advantage I can see of a manual is you can push start it.

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Old 12-17-05, 05:50 AM   #26 (permalink)
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nothing wrong with one step at a time. the engine is having a compression test done today and i am off on a CCSS/River Shiver? 4th LJ78 off road test run so i will no tknow the results till either later tomorrow or monday.

i will PM you the results.

cheers

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Old 12-17-05, 08:05 AM   #27 (permalink)
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Rosco- Thanks for all the thoughts and vote of confidence! BTW where are you in Western Aus.? My uncle used to be a mine engineer and I visited him in Kalgoolie (probably misspelled) a couple of times, he now lives near Perth. And my Aunt & her husband Rupert run a cattle station somewhere North of perth. Rest of the family is scattered around- Adelaide, Melbourne, Noosa Heads.... I'm sure that next time I am over I willl spend the whole time trying to figure out how to import one of the incredible trucks that you lucky Aussies get!!!

Wayne- enjoy the test run! I look forward to the results.
Thanks, Gavin

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Old 12-18-05, 06:28 AM   #28 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gavin
Rosco- Thanks for all the thoughts and vote of confidence! BTW where are you in Western Aus.? My uncle used to be a mine engineer and I visited him in Kalgoolie (probably misspelled) a couple of times, he now lives near Perth. And my Aunt & her husband Rupert run a cattle station somewhere North of perth. Rest of the family is scattered around- Adelaide, Melbourne, Noosa Heads.... I'm sure that next time I am over I willl spend the whole time trying to figure out how to import one of the incredible trucks that you lucky Aussies get!!!

Wayne- enjoy the test run! I look forward to the results.
Thanks, Gavin
Im in Perth and think you missed an "r" from Kalgoorlie
I think you have to a have a vehicle that is older than 25 years and there isnt much to choose from.

IMO its easier and cheaper to strip out all the good stuff from a wreck here and fit into your LHD vehicle back home.
Suggested items,12HT or 1HZ or 1HD-T ,H55f gearbox ,full floater diffs ,barn doors and the big air filter box
Also there are lots of good LH front seats
3 cubic metres cost about $1000 US to LA

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FJ73+1HZ Diesel NEW GEARBOX
1HZ =same power as 3F with 30% better fuel economy
2in Dobinsons lift.Powerdown adj shocks
33 in BFG A/T
HJ61 with slidin windas regrettfully SOLD:(
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Last edited by roscoFJ73; 12-18-05 at 06:34 AM.
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Old 12-18-05, 07:29 PM   #29 (permalink)
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Little bit from "outerlimits" cheers.



carts



Joined: 28 Sep 2003
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Posted: Fri Nov 25, 2005 7:28 pm

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Den.R wrote:
Quote:- "Turbo, lotsa boost, lotsa fuel and lotsa intercooler, makes for lotsa power."

Does it really get up and go that well? Do you have dyno specs?

What boost are you running?
What size intercooler are you running? (front mount or top mount)
What is your tyre combination and what ratios in the diff are you running...
Did you modify the ports in the head, or change the cam? etc

You can PM me if you don't want it to be known publicly... I am very interested as the ute chop I have done has made the car 200kg's lighter and its now time to get the ol girl going a little better... (already turboed with intercooler and ratios on the way).


I am running 13psi. Intercooler is a bar and plate front mount cooler. Core size is 600*450*75mm roughly. Yes it is overkill for a 60, but it fits nicely in the front grill area.

I am running 35 mt/r's, with standard 4.1 ratios. Dumbdunce off this board has a multivalve 80 series, and between his 80 and my 60, they are pretty even when it comes to performance. The extra rev range in the 1hdf-t makes it a pretty mean competitor when it comes to acceleration challenges to 100km/h. The 2h seems to have the off boost torque over the multivalve though. At 110km/h, both seem to pull just as good as each other up hills. I don't have any dyno figures for it. We have talked about doing a dyno run just for fun. I may get around to it before I sell it!!

Apart from correcting the fuel for max boost, engine internals are stock. No head work! It isnt overfuelling at full boost either. EGT maxes out at 480 degrees full boost at 3000rpm 110km/h plus.

I have a members thread with photos. http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/PHP_Mo...ic.php?t=58247
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Old 12-18-05, 07:43 PM   #30 (permalink)
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Outer Limits 4x4 Board Forum Index » Toyota
Author Message
vanzbrown



Joined: 10 Jun 2005
Location: Victoria
Posted: Wed Oct 26, 2005 9:49 pm

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What tricks are there to tuning up an old 2H...

What generally gets tested when an old diesel goes in for a tune up.

Is there much that can be tweaked if i booked it in somewhere or is there not much too it and im better off doing it myself?

Just starting to think that over the past few months performance has started to really suck as compared to about 6mths ago (go the 2H)

Thanks
Leeroy





joel HJ60



Joined: 01 May 2005
Location: Belmont2280, Newcastle, N.S.W. And proud of it!
Posted: Wed Oct 26, 2005 10:17 pm

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Injection timing. Check it out. Maybe advance it a tad it you have a bigger exhaust and header + a snorkel fitted.

Compression test. See if your actually firing on all 6 properly. Are your glow plugs in good condition? Also the pre heating, charge system. Are the plugs being charged and fired properly.

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joel HJ60



Joined: 01 May 2005
Location: Belmont2280, Newcastle, N.S.W. And proud of it!
Posted: Wed Oct 26, 2005 10:18 pm

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There some things I would like to get done. Vale stems as well, and piston rings checked out.

Also are the valve clearances to spec??

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Last edited by joel HJ60 on Wed Oct 26, 2005 10:30 pm; edited 1 time in total




vanzbrown



Joined: 10 Jun 2005
Location: Victoria
Posted: Wed Oct 26, 2005 10:30 pm

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pre heating system is a problem... its clickin on and off more these days, and draining a @&@&@&@& load more off my battery...

Some mornings, i wait till the light goes off, then wait till i hear it click and start it up and my yard still gets full of white smoke...

Generally starts up fine though for the rest of the day...


I thnk it may need some preventitive maintenence...

Leeroy





joel HJ60



Joined: 01 May 2005
Location: Belmont2280, Newcastle, N.S.W. And proud of it!
Posted: Wed Oct 26, 2005 10:33 pm

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Basic stuff will go a fair way but. Engine oil filter, fuel and air filters. The basics. I wander what it costs for the pump timing to be checked?

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rock hopper



Joined: 08 Sep 2004
Location: GYMPIE QLD
Posted: Thu Oct 27, 2005 7:41 am

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joel HJ60 wrote:
Basic stuff will go a fair way but. Engine oil filter, fuel and air filters. The basics. I wander what it costs for the pump timing to be checked?


i charge to set the timming on a 2h $170-00 .
$90 to replace the diaframe .

i know your in vic but it aroung 3 hours to set the timming .

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joel HJ60



Joined: 01 May 2005
Location: Belmont2280, Newcastle, N.S.W. And proud of it!
Posted: Thu Oct 27, 2005 1:23 pm

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
rock hopper wrote:
joel HJ60 wrote:
Basic stuff will go a fair way but. Engine oil filter, fuel and air filters. The basics. I wander what it costs for the pump timing to be checked?


i charge to set the timming on a 2h $170-00 .
$90 to replace the diaframe .

i know your in vic but it aroung 3 hours to set the timming .


$170 sounds reasonable! What's the diaphram?

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Den.R



Joined: 29 Jul 2004
Location: Sydney
Posted: Thu Oct 27, 2005 2:30 pm

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how do you know that you have the timing right? I know with a petrol engine you can hear the thing ping however the old 2h's are noisey and it is hard to hear the thing ping (other than its normal rattle)if the timing is too far advanced.

Do you spill time it every time you advance it? I have a 2h turbo, currently at around 7psi, with snorkel and 3' system and would love for it to go better but am hesitant as I don';t want to blow the thing.





carts



Joined: 28 Sep 2003
Location: Hornsby depot, annoying Gribble.
Posted: Thu Oct 27, 2005 4:57 pm

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Den.R wrote:
how do you know that you have the timing right? I know with a petrol engine you can hear the thing ping however the old 2h's are noisey and it is hard to hear the thing ping (other than its normal rattle)if the timing is too far advanced.

Do you spill time it every time you advance it? I have a 2h turbo, currently at around 7psi, with snorkel and 3' system and would love for it to go better but am hesitant as I don';t want to blow the thing.


I run 13psi on my 2h. But i am also intercooled. Goes pretty nice though.

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rock hopper



Joined: 08 Sep 2004
Location: GYMPIE QLD
Posted: Thu Oct 27, 2005 5:35 pm

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
joel HJ60 wrote:
rock hopper wrote:
joel HJ60 wrote:
Basic stuff will go a fair way but. Engine oil filter, fuel and air filters. The basics. I wander what it costs for the pump timing to be checked?


i charge to set the timming on a 2h $170-00 .
$90 to replace the diaframe .

i know your in vic but it aroung 3 hours to set the timming .


$170 sounds reasonable! What's the diaphram?

A DIAFRAME IS in your injector pump .

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joel HJ60



Joined: 01 May 2005
Location: Belmont2280, Newcastle, N.S.W. And proud of it!
Posted: Thu Oct 27, 2005 8:15 pm

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ah DIAFRAME sorry

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timcruiser



Joined: 02 Oct 2005
Location: south burnet
Posted: Thu Oct 27, 2005 8:20 pm

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joel HJ60 wrote:
ah DIAFRAME sorry
I think it is DIAPHRAM

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carts



Joined: 28 Sep 2003
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Posted: Thu Oct 27, 2005 8:37 pm

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timcruiser wrote:
joel HJ60 wrote:
ah DIAFRAME sorry
I think it is DIAPHRAM


hmmm, i think he means a diaphragm. The 'g' is silent.

And the diaphragm in question is the governor diaphragm. When it fails, and tears and starts to leak, your car will start to idle higher and overfuel. Its quite common in 2h's and 3b's.

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Go home Carter. You're a big dumb stupid head.





carts



Joined: 28 Sep 2003
Location: Hornsby depot, annoying Gribble.
Posted: Thu Oct 27, 2005 8:49 pm

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As to the original question about how to tune up a 2h, i got nothing.

Timing, fueling and compression is about the only things besides general maintenance that will make it go harder. And any gains you make will be minimal.

Turbo is the best performer, then go extractors if you are on a cheaper budget.

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joel HJ60



Joined: 01 May 2005
Location: Belmont2280, Newcastle, N.S.W. And proud of it!
Posted: Thu Oct 27, 2005 11:46 pm

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What did your entire turbo + intercooler setup cost?

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carts



Joined: 28 Sep 2003
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Posted: Fri Oct 28, 2005 5:01 pm

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
joel HJ60 wrote:
What did your entire turbo + intercooler setup cost?


if that question was aimed at me, it cost about $3800.

That includes new turbo, manifold, exhaust, installation, plumbing, intercooler core, intercooler plumbing in 3 inch stainless steel and blow off valve and boost gauge.

I think it was a reasonable investment.

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Go home Carter. You're a big dumb stupid head.





vanzbrown



Joined: 10 Jun 2005
Location: Victoria
Posted: Fri Oct 28, 2005 5:08 pm

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
carts wrote:
joel HJ60 wrote:
What did your entire turbo + intercooler setup cost?


if that question was aimed at me, it cost about $3800.

That includes new turbo, manifold, exhaust, installation, plumbing, intercooler core, intercooler plumbing in 3 inch stainless steel and blow off valve and boost gauge.

I think it was a reasonable investment.


Thats a cracker of a price... How much of that included work you did yourself and/or mates rates...

Thats sensational

Leeroy





carts



Joined: 28 Sep 2003
Location: Hornsby depot, annoying Gribble.
Posted: Fri Oct 28, 2005 5:56 pm

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
vanzbrown wrote:
carts wrote:
joel HJ60 wrote:
What did your entire turbo + intercooler setup cost?


if that question was aimed at me, it cost about $3800.

That includes new turbo, manifold, exhaust, installation, plumbing, intercooler core, intercooler plumbing in 3 inch stainless steel and blow off valve and boost gauge.

I think it was a reasonable investment.


Thats a cracker of a price... How much of that included work you did yourself and/or mates rates...

Thats sensational

Leeroy


Well, it was a work in progress for a while.

The turbo kit from denco cost $2400 about 2 years ago. That came with exhaust, manifold, turbo, cross over pipe, oil plumbing etc....a complete kit ready to be installed. Dumbdunce installed the kit for about $400. So stage one of the turbo install cost roughly $2800.

I picked the intercooler up from ebay for $240. I made up all the mountings for it and removed the front grill. Using a knibbler, dumdunce and I cut holes in the front apron just below the headlight surrounds to fit 3 inch pipe through.

I then took the car to windsor exhaust centre. They fabbed up 3 inch madrel bent stainless steel piping for the intercooler. Joints were done in silicone fittings. It cost $640 from memory for that component, which i thought was pretty reasonable for a full custom setup.

After all of that, compressor surge was pretty bad, so i picked up a new blow off valve off ebay for about $90. Installation was pretty simple, with the use of a mig welder and a decent hole saw. Blow off valve plumbing cost about $40 or so. Boost gauge was about $50.

All in all, that adds up to about $3860. Give or take another $100 in random parts and labour. If i was to do it again, i dont think i could do the intercooler setup any better or cheaper. The turbo component though, i reckon using a 2nd hand turbo and a custom made manifold, you could do it for about $1400 including all parts and labour (excluding full exhaust system) jus modding the original exhaust.

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dumbdunce



Joined: 15 Feb 2003
Location: Seven Hills NSW
Posted: Fri Oct 28, 2005 6:05 pm

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
vanzbrown wrote:
carts wrote:
joel HJ60 wrote:
What did your entire turbo + intercooler setup cost?



if that question was aimed at me, it cost about $3800.

That includes new turbo, manifold, exhaust, installation, plumbing, intercooler core, intercooler plumbing in 3 inch stainless steel and blow off valve and boost gauge.

I think it was a reasonable investment.


Thats a cracker of a price... How much of that included work you did yourself and/or mates rates...

Thats sensational

Leeroy


I installed the turbo, which was around 2800 installed from memory. it is a Denco kit with schwitzer turbo and includes full exhaust. the Intercooler was sourced on ebay, around $300?, Carts mounted it himself, we cut some holes in the radiator support panel for the plumbing, and the intercooler plumbing was supplied and installed in stainless steel by a reputable exhaust shop. we then found that with the air volume in the intercooler and boost over 10psi, boost was spiking (off the top of 15psi gauge) due to the throttle butterfly used to govern fuel delivery, so a BOV was sourced on ebay modified to work with the very low vacuum generated in the 2H inlet, then installed to the intercooler plumbing.

with a bit of imagination and perserverance its possible to do a custom turbo on a 2H with a second hand import turbo for very cheap - possibly as cheap as new extractors/full exhaust - and even if the turbo costs a few hundred more, the extra power is definitely worth it.

Although the 2H is not the best candidate for turbocharging, cart's one is standing up to 13psi quite well - the key thing is to keep the EGT's low - IO think we have his set up for 500C max post turbo.

It keeps up with (ok it's slightly quicker!) than my 80 series factory turbo multivalve.

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