oil pan man

brownbear · 09-29-05, 11:41 PM

Ok, gotta q for the "perts" amongst us.

I have my oil pan off right now, getting ready to weld my NPT fitting to the pan for my turbo return.

My first Q, is there anything STRONGLY recommened that should be looked at while in there? So far everything looks great with my first boo.

Second Q, what is everyone using for a gasket for re-install. My old gasket is in pieces and is very hardened. Should I buy a yota one? or go the sealent way. I have lots of red RTV high temp.

My turbo install is near complete, but it will take some time to fab a nice looking intake to turbo pipe.

pics upon install will follow........

crushers · 09-30-05, 06:44 AM

from 85 on Toyota used only sealent, no gasket...
i have always been a gasket type of guy but i am slowly changing over.
i would go with a gasket if you can find one and silicone the block side. makes pulling the pan much easier in the future as the gasket stays in place while the pan is off...
cheers

fjbj40 · 09-30-05, 06:46 AM

use " great stuff " , about $ 20.00 a tube , put my oil pan on 2 years ago and not a drip.
Daryl

Vegard · 09-30-05, 07:19 AM

I'm at about the same stage in my turbo-mounting process. I will also use sealant, allthough I think a gasket would have made it a lot easier to remove the pan.

As for the oil dump into the pan, I will use a little pipe thing which I do not know the english name for... I will post a picture this evening (Norwegian time). It does not require welding, and is intended for taking fluids through e.g a oil pan wall. For a gasket I will use the same sealant as I use for the oil pan towards the engine.

cruiser_guy · 09-30-05, 08:18 AM

I would check the condition of the oil pan. Many of the '60 series oil pans are getting thin due to rust etc. I replaced mine about 2 years ago since it was weeping THROUGH the pan. Same thing is happening with my daughters truck right now.
If you've cleaned the pan prior to working on it (probably), you might have cleaned off the last layer that seals it!

brownbear · 09-30-05, 10:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cruiser_guy

I would check the condition of the oil pan. Many of the '60 series oil pans are getting thin due to rust etc. I replaced mine about 2 years ago since it was weeping THROUGH the pan. Same thing is happening with my daughters truck right now.
If you've cleaned the pan prior to working on it (probably), you might have cleaned off the last layer that seals it!

wow, that would be thin.

I don't have rust issues on my pan, and the coating inside is perfect. won't be after I weld. But I do no how to control my heat(damp rag, slow welding) also it will be only a seal weld, not a huge penetration weld.

I will see what a gasket goes for.......

but I got lots of sealent. just don't think it will come off easy with sealent in the future.

cruiser_guy · 09-30-05, 11:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by brownbear

wow, that would be thin.

I don't have rust issues on my pan, and the coating inside is perfect. won't be after I weld. But I do no how to control my heat(damp rag, slow welding) also it will be only a seal weld, not a huge penetration weld.

I will see what a gasket goes for.......

but I got lots of sealent. just don't think it will come off easy with sealent in the future.

I've seen 3B pans where you can see daylight through!! There were no rust issues with my daughters oil pan when the engine was redone last year either and the coating looked good too. It kind of sneaks up on you!

jzilla · 09-30-05, 04:51 PM

I used the gasket, they are like 50 bucks, Sealant is just as good though, get the permatex ultra black, that is what the shops use, it is great stuff.
Cruiser guy is right about those pans leaking, my pan has already been fixed once before due to the rust.

Vegard · 09-30-05, 05:01 PM

Here is what I will use to dump oil to the oil pan. I posted it in the wrong thread at first... getting tired.

jzilla · 09-30-05, 05:24 PM

You can get a similar fitting to that from toyota for the toyota celica oil return.
The year of celica is 90-92 I think. It is nice and large, about an inch in diameter.

fjbj40 · 09-30-05, 05:42 PM

hey Brownbear , my oil pan had a few small holes in it so I put it in the blast cabinet and cleaned it up real good . Cleaned it with MEK and then put the PRC 1440 b to it on the inside where the holes were and then coated the whole outside with it . 3 years later and not a weep . WAY cheaper than a new one from Toyota and the best rust protection available !

PRC....you got to love that shit man...when I rebuild the 40 this winter every seam is going to be sealed with it !

Daryl

Vegard · 09-30-05, 05:44 PM

I got this one from a shop selling gear for boats. It is 26 mm in outer diameter, price was around 6$

brownbear · 10-01-05, 12:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fjbj40

hey Brownbear , my oil pan had a few small holes in it so I put it in the blast cabinet and cleaned it up real good . Cleaned it with MEK and then put the PRC 1440 b to it on the inside where the holes were and then coated the whole outside with it . 3 years later and not a weep . WAY cheaper than a new one from Toyota and the best rust protection available !

PRC....you got to love that shit man...when I rebuild the 40 this winter every seam is going to be sealed with it !

Daryl

yup PRC is the bomb. I buy the sim kits for my plane. Mix up the tube and spread. PRC took man to the moon. #1 aerospace sealent out there.

But I DO NOT have a leaky pan, thanks for tip though. Cruiser guy is saying IF.

I think after using POR-15 it would make a tank non porous and very strong. That stuff is awesome. I am going to paint the outside of my pan with it before re-install.

I had too many oil leaks to have rust, LOL! some of the bolts were finger tight. wonder if the vibration loosened them over time??

brownbear · 10-01-05, 12:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Vegard

Here is what I will use to dump oil to the oil pan. I posted it in the wrong thread at first... getting tired.

Thanks for the pic. I will post the drain I have once I stick it on.

Mine is a .500 hole, but to weld the scully to the pan requires a 1 inch hole.

I have a .250 px line and .5 return line. I used a JIC fitting with a 45 elbow going into a NPT scully. You shall see hopefully tomorrow. Lets see how productive I am tomorrow. Better not get into any vino tinto........

Vegard · 10-01-05, 02:37 AM

So Brownbear, we are mounting a turbo to each our 3B on the same weekend. That is kind of cool. I am some hours ahead of you due to my timezone :-)

Good luck!

Eric Winkworth · 10-01-05, 05:54 AM

make sure you guys take tons of digital photo's I am not overly knowledgable about turbos, and I would like to do my own junkyard turbo setup sometime in the next year.

Any help would be greatly appricated

andrewfarmer · 10-01-05, 06:23 AM

Easy return line tip.
Get a sharp tapered punch.
Punch a hole on the side of the sump.
Tap for 1/4NPT (or 3/8 if you prefer) with grease (to control swarf).
Screw in NPT fitting.
No drilling, no mess, no nees to remove sump.
Trick is punching hole to correct depth.

Eric Winkworth · 10-01-05, 07:33 AM

lol no dought

crushers · 10-01-05, 08:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by andrewfarmer

Easy return line tip.
Get a sharp tapered punch.
Punch a hole on the side of the sump.
Tap for 1/4NPT (or 3/8 if you prefer) with grease (to control swarf).
Screw in NPT fitting.
No drilling, no mess, no nees to remove sump.
Trick is punching hole to correct depth.

trick is that your oil is returning with NO pressure so a 1/4" hole is no where big enough...
cheers

Eric Winkworth · 10-01-05, 08:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by crushers

trick is that your oil is returning with NO pressure so a 1/4" hole is no where big enough...
cheers

what size do you go with Wayne?

cruiser_guy · 10-01-05, 08:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Eric Winkworth

what size do you go with Wayne?

AXT uses 1/2" and I also used 1/2" on my daughters FJ55/3B turbo which is a Volvo turbo. The supply on the other hand is only 1/4" or so on both.

crushers · 10-01-05, 09:14 AM

agreed, i run 1/2" ID return line... this was recommended to me by the turbo shop...

brownbear · 10-01-05, 06:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Vegard

So Brownbear, we are mounting a turbo to each our 3B on the same weekend. That is kind of cool. I am some hours ahead of you due to my timezone :-)

Good luck!

oh I've been at it for a while.......so I most likely have had 3b turbo installing weekends with many by now..

I got two things left. a intake pipe. made, just have to put on a flange and weld it up, as well I got to weld the scully on.....

I should have the turbo done this weekend, then I can get back to the body panels. there is never enuf time in the day. And when you work as a mechanic during the day its hard to jump into it at night. But these are excuses eh?

ya the law of scavenge lines should be double the pressure line. To make up for expansion. as well as pressure drop across the bearing......

uebercruiser · 10-01-05, 07:53 PM

where'd you get your turbo brownbear?

brownbear · 10-01-05, 09:30 PM

at the autowrecker in town.

brownbear · 10-02-05, 11:51 PM

started by drilling a 1 inch hole. then placed the already tightened scully with jic .5 inch elbow.

tacked into place and finished welding. ignore the welds. I am new to the world of welding. But it is fun......

brownbear · 10-02-05, 11:53 PM

heres the inside of the pan, welded inside as well,

then whole pan cleaned with marine clean/metal ready and POR-15'd.
gotta love that stuff.

brownbear · 10-02-05, 11:57 PM

then I started making the turbo to intake pipe. I used 1.5 inch pipe, stretched to bigger size, then an intermediate size, ending at 2.25 inch, that same size as the intake.

as well I made a steel flange to weld the pipe too. the one that mounts to the turbo. Not easy when its this style of turbo.

next I will weld a fitting to the pipe for the boost gauge. Also the pipe will get ground smooth and painted with POR...

That was as much as I wanted to do this sunday......

crushers · 10-03-05, 05:20 AM

looks like it should work just fine.
i find it amazing with the amount of turbo's being installed this month...

Vegard · 10-03-05, 05:27 AM

Looks good! What kind of turbo are you using? What car did it come off?

09-30-05, 06:44 AM	#2
crushers IH8MUD Lifer Join Date: Feb 2004 Posts: 9,793	from 85 on Toyota used only sealent, no gasket... i have always been a gasket type of guy but i am slowly changing over. i would go with a gasket if you can find one and silicone the block side. makes pulling the pan much easier in the future as the gasket stays in place while the pan is off... cheers __________________ pulling this info out of my ass so take it with a pound of salt "People are poor because they don't spend money wisely, tough sh!t !!! " John Galt 09/22/08 "educate yourself. Sorry if that seems too blunt." John Galt 11-01-08 Wayne in Ontario http://www.ivoac.ca join today

09-30-05, 06:46 AM	#3
fjbj40 IH8MUD Regular Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: east coast Canada Posts: 369	use " great stuff " , about $ 20.00 a tube , put my oil pan on 2 years ago and not a drip. Daryl __________________ 74 fj/bj40 88 fj/bj62 , full OME lift kit , home brew turbo , 4 runner brakes .

09-30-05, 07:19 AM	#4
Vegard IH8MUD Junior Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: Tromso, Norway Posts: 101	I'm at about the same stage in my turbo-mounting process. I will also use sealant, allthough I think a gasket would have made it a lot easier to remove the pan. As for the oil dump into the pan, I will use a little pipe thing which I do not know the english name for... I will post a picture this evening (Norwegian time). It does not require welding, and is intended for taking fluids through e.g a oil pan wall. For a gasket I will use the same sealant as I use for the oil pan towards the engine. __________________ Greetings from Northern Norway, Vegard.

09-30-05, 08:18 AM	#5
cruiser_guy IH8MUD Lifer Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Mixco, Guatemala/Cranbrook & Vancouver, B.C., Canada TLCA# 16387 Posts: 7,362	I would check the condition of the oil pan. Many of the '60 series oil pans are getting thin due to rust etc. I replaced mine about 2 years ago since it was weeping THROUGH the pan. Same thing is happening with my daughters truck right now. If you've cleaned the pan prior to working on it (probably), you might have cleaned off the last layer that seals it! __________________ '82 BJ60 H55 tranny, AXT turbo 3B diesel, high nickel alloy head, A/C, BDS lift, factory PTO, Aussie rear locker, OEM LSD front, 4:11's, 32's, PERFECT frame! '76 FJ55, 3B turbo, alloy head, H41 tranny, 3 sp. transfer, 33's, A/C, PTO winch, long range tank! '67 FJ45LV shop project c/w 3B turbo diesel transplant & H41 4 speed, 3 speed transfer, PTO! www.wirrell.com

09-30-05, 04:51 PM	#8
jzilla IH8MUD Regular Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: N Vancouver, BC Posts: 267	I used the gasket, they are like 50 bucks, Sealant is just as good though, get the permatex ultra black, that is what the shops use, it is great stuff. Cruiser guy is right about those pans leaking, my pan has already been fixed once before due to the rust. __________________ 81 BJ60 turbo, intercooler, snorkel, etc.

09-29-05, 11:41 PM	#1
brownbear Mod in Hibernation Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: Where diesels purr and turbos whine TLCA# 15584 Posts: 6,183	oil pan man Ok, gotta q for the "perts" amongst us. I have my oil pan off right now, getting ready to weld my NPT fitting to the pan for my turbo return. My first Q, is there anything STRONGLY recommened that should be looked at while in there? So far everything looks great with my first boo. Second Q, what is everyone using for a gasket for re-install. My old gasket is in pieces and is very hardened. Should I buy a yota one? or go the sealent way. I have lots of red RTV high temp. My turbo install is near complete, but it will take some time to fab a nice looking intake to turbo pipe. pics upon install will follow........ __________________ -84 BJ60, Finally on the FN road! -91 FJ80, wife's ride Iron Butt award winner of the Cruise Moab 08 !

09-30-05, 05:01 PM	#9
Vegard IH8MUD Junior Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: Tromso, Norway Posts: 101	Here is what I will use to dump oil to the oil pan. I posted it in the wrong thread at first... getting tired. __________________ Greetings from Northern Norway, Vegard. Last edited by Vegard; 01-13-06 at 06:55 AM.

09-30-05, 05:24 PM	#10
jzilla IH8MUD Regular Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: N Vancouver, BC Posts: 267	You can get a similar fitting to that from toyota for the toyota celica oil return. The year of celica is 90-92 I think. It is nice and large, about an inch in diameter. __________________ 81 BJ60 turbo, intercooler, snorkel, etc.

09-30-05, 05:42 PM	#11
fjbj40 IH8MUD Regular Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: east coast Canada Posts: 369	hey Brownbear , my oil pan had a few small holes in it so I put it in the blast cabinet and cleaned it up real good . Cleaned it with MEK and then put the PRC 1440 b to it on the inside where the holes were and then coated the whole outside with it . 3 years later and not a weep . WAY cheaper than a new one from Toyota and the best rust protection available ! PRC....you got to love that shit man...when I rebuild the 40 this winter every seam is going to be sealed with it ! Daryl __________________ 74 fj/bj40 88 fj/bj62 , full OME lift kit , home brew turbo , 4 runner brakes .

09-30-05, 05:44 PM	#12
Vegard IH8MUD Junior Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: Tromso, Norway Posts: 101	I got this one from a shop selling gear for boats. It is 26 mm in outer diameter, price was around 6$ __________________ Greetings from Northern Norway, Vegard.

10-01-05, 02:37 AM	#15
Vegard IH8MUD Junior Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: Tromso, Norway Posts: 101	So Brownbear, we are mounting a turbo to each our 3B on the same weekend. That is kind of cool. I am some hours ahead of you due to my timezone :-) Good luck! __________________ Greetings from Northern Norway, Vegard.

10-01-05, 05:54 AM	#16
Eric Winkworth IH8MUD Lifer Join Date: Mar 2005 Posts: 1,419	make sure you guys take tons of digital photo's I am not overly knowledgable about turbos, and I would like to do my own junkyard turbo setup sometime in the next year. Any help would be greatly appricated __________________ 1986 BJ70, 24v with a 3B

10-01-05, 06:23 AM	#17
andrewfarmer IH8MUD Addict Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: Wellington, NZ Posts: 798	Easy return line tip. Get a sharp tapered punch. Punch a hole on the side of the sump. Tap for 1/4NPT (or 3/8 if you prefer) with grease (to control swarf). Screw in NPT fitting. No drilling, no mess, no nees to remove sump. Trick is punching hole to correct depth. __________________ My ROTW thread...

10-01-05, 07:33 AM	#18
Eric Winkworth IH8MUD Lifer Join Date: Mar 2005 Posts: 1,419	lol no dought __________________ 1986 BJ70, 24v with a 3B

10-01-05, 09:14 AM	#22
crushers IH8MUD Lifer Join Date: Feb 2004 Posts: 9,793	agreed, i run 1/2" ID return line... this was recommended to me by the turbo shop... __________________ pulling this info out of my ass so take it with a pound of salt "People are poor because they don't spend money wisely, tough sh!t !!! " John Galt 09/22/08 "educate yourself. Sorry if that seems too blunt." John Galt 11-01-08 Wayne in Ontario http://www.ivoac.ca join today

10-01-05, 07:53 PM	#24
uebercruiser IH8MUD Rookie Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Smithers, BC Posts: 21	where'd you get your turbo brownbear?

10-01-05, 09:30 PM	#25
brownbear Mod in Hibernation Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: Where diesels purr and turbos whine TLCA# 15584 Posts: 6,183	at the autowrecker in town. __________________ -84 BJ60, Finally on the FN road! -91 FJ80, wife's ride Iron Butt award winner of the Cruise Moab 08 !

10-02-05, 11:51 PM	#26
brownbear Mod in Hibernation Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: Where diesels purr and turbos whine TLCA# 15584 Posts: 6,183	started by drilling a 1 inch hole. then placed the already tightened scully with jic .5 inch elbow. tacked into place and finished welding. ignore the welds. I am new to the world of welding. But it is fun...... Attached Images __________________ -84 BJ60, Finally on the FN road! -91 FJ80, wife's ride Iron Butt award winner of the Cruise Moab 08 !

10-02-05, 11:53 PM	#27
brownbear Mod in Hibernation Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: Where diesels purr and turbos whine TLCA# 15584 Posts: 6,183	heres the inside of the pan, welded inside as well, then whole pan cleaned with marine clean/metal ready and POR-15'd. gotta love that stuff. Attached Images __________________ -84 BJ60, Finally on the FN road! -91 FJ80, wife's ride Iron Butt award winner of the Cruise Moab 08 !

10-02-05, 11:57 PM	#28
brownbear Mod in Hibernation Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: Where diesels purr and turbos whine TLCA# 15584 Posts: 6,183	then I started making the turbo to intake pipe. I used 1.5 inch pipe, stretched to bigger size, then an intermediate size, ending at 2.25 inch, that same size as the intake. as well I made a steel flange to weld the pipe too. the one that mounts to the turbo. Not easy when its this style of turbo. next I will weld a fitting to the pipe for the boost gauge. Also the pipe will get ground smooth and painted with POR... That was as much as I wanted to do this sunday...... Attached Images __________________ -84 BJ60, Finally on the FN road! -91 FJ80, wife's ride Iron Butt award winner of the Cruise Moab 08 !

10-03-05, 05:20 AM	#29
crushers IH8MUD Lifer Join Date: Feb 2004 Posts: 9,793	looks like it should work just fine. i find it amazing with the amount of turbo's being installed this month... __________________ pulling this info out of my ass so take it with a pound of salt "People are poor because they don't spend money wisely, tough sh!t !!! " John Galt 09/22/08 "educate yourself. Sorry if that seems too blunt." John Galt 11-01-08 Wayne in Ontario http://www.ivoac.ca join today

10-03-05, 05:27 AM	#30
Vegard IH8MUD Junior Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: Tromso, Norway Posts: 101	Looks good! What kind of turbo are you using? What car did it come off? __________________ Greetings from Northern Norway, Vegard.