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Old 08-23-05, 10:10 PM   #1
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1978 BJ40/42 - Buying one from Canada, anything to look for?

First time in the international section, but figured this would be the place for this question(s).

A young man that used to work for me who is currently a pilot flying Chinnook helicopters in Iraq emailed me a couple days ago. He is looking for a project cruiser to work on when he gets back around the 1st of the year. He was wondering if I knew of any? Of course I told him of the typical ebay stuff, plenty of that around. I also mentioned a 1978 Diesel BJ40/42 (FJ, not even sure what it is?) that I knew about across the border in Canada. I've known for a while the guy who wanted to sell it, but I've already got 2 -40's and another project in the pipeline so never really inquired about it?

So, I called the guy tonight, still got it, he's wants $800 US. Says it was rolled many years ago, no top or doors. Still has the roll bar and jump seats, he said all that was straight. He said it starts and seems to run fine, shifts, 4wd works, goes down the road, etc.... Body he said, rusty as hell, personally he thought the body is toast.

Anway, for $800 I'm pretty much expecting junk anyway. I guess my question to you guys who know this stuff: Anything I should be looking for? I guess mainly pertaining to the Diesel. I think I know a lot about FJ40's with the 2F, but I've never seen a 40 with a Diesel in it? Anything that should jump out at me that I should be looking for?

Like I said, not expecting much for $800, but I don't want to take this thing home and have an $800 useless pile of iron in my yard waiting for this guy when he gets home from Iraq.

Any comments sure appreciated,

Thanks, Matt


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Last edited by buckroseau; 08-24-05 at 12:06 AM.
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Old 08-24-05, 07:17 AM   #2
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if that one does not work out for you i have a good friend that has a rusty but great running BJ40 for sale for $2000 CND.

do a coolant pressure test, these are notorious for coolant leaks where the head cracks between the valves
do a compression test, a 3B can be an expesive engine to rebuild properly
check the frame before and above the rear solid spring mounts espec where it goes close to the muffler
if you need a body check with Mike Gozzard for a fiberglass unit, much nicer than aluminum and won't rust like steel
check for vacumm pump, this is a very expensive fix since you will need to replace botht eh alternator and the pump itself

that is all i can think of right now...
HTH
cheers


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Old 08-24-05, 07:20 AM   #3
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First look hard at the frame. A lot of cruisers up there have really severe rust problems and the frame is not immune. Some in ebay have been pictured with holes easily large enough to put a fist through right in the frame rails! Look at and behind the spring hangers first.

As to the engines - there are a lot of people who can speak to that better than I can as I've only just aquired one of them. Wayne, known by "crushers" in here can be particularly helpful to you if you happen to be lucky enough to catch him in a very rare civil mood . The BJ40 and BJ42 will have either a 'B', a '2B', or a '3B' depending on year model. They're a family of four cylinder engines mostly made by Hino, a subsidiary of Toyota. Generally they can last a very long time but watch out for signs of having been overheated as that, along with running low on oil, is likely the biggest killer for them. They're solid lifter mechanical injected engines so expect a nice bit of racket that isn't necessarily harmful.

There's much more, but I think a lot of people would be happy to buy that truck at $800. for the driveline alone - engine, trans, and that.

The vehicle you mentioned (1978 BJ40) is 25 or more years old it's an easy import as it would be exempt from EPA and DOT requirements. Newer than that can be problematic.


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Old 08-24-05, 07:24 AM   #4
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Why, there's Wayne, in person! La!


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Old 08-24-05, 07:29 AM   #5
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good morning,
you are right, if the engine has not been overheated or too many missed oil changes then the B series engines is about as tough an engine as you can find. i guess the reaso i keep bashing them is to let everyone know they are not bullet proof and you should know the seller before you buy...
cheers


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Old 08-24-05, 07:36 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crushers
good morning,
you are right, if the engine has not been overheated or too many missed oil changes then the B series engines is about as tough an engine as you can find. i guess the reaso i keep bashing them is to let everyone know they are not bullet proof and you should know the seller before you buy...
cheers

Yes, there IS a misconception on the part of many people in the US that diesels "last forever". I think that you're right to do as you do in order to both protect yourself and to try to bring people to realize that ALL mechanical devices, diesel or otherwise, do wear, breakdown, and otherwise fail to satisfy. I personally don't view diesels as a class of things to be any better than gasoline engines by nature. In both spheres are examples of incredible longevity as well as ones of horrific and early demise.

BTW, several owners of diesel trucks down here, when faced with a failed vacuum pump system, simply convert to an aftermarket electrical one and drive on. Sucking is sucking, eh?


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Old 08-24-05, 07:45 AM   #7
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I guess I don't know the seller that well, more or less stumbled across it because mutal people knew I was into cruisers and they knew this guy had one. He's an older farmer/logger just north of the border. After talking to him he seems like a straight shooter.

I knew about the 25 year and older exempt thing, I had called the border and asked. I actually know quite a few of the border guys here, US and Canada, I only live 9 miles from it.

Another question I was planning on calling and asking the border guys today, but maybe you guys know. No title, need one to get across or can a guy whip up a quick bill of sale as parts?

Not to concerned about the title, might try to obtain one, but I have a 79 FJ40 clean title I told him he could have if it was impossible to get one.

The Diesel thing just seems cool................

Thanks, Matt


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Old 08-24-05, 08:29 AM   #8
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A bill of sale as parts will work but depending on the particular crossing people what makes it parts and not a whole can vary. I've heard of people being denied if the whole vehicle is present, dissassembled or not. Others apparently have come through with cut in half frames. As far as I know the exemption should apply regardless the form, but a whole vehicle will still need a showing of it's origin. That means a title from oone of the Canadian provinces.


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Old 08-24-05, 08:41 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by buckroseau
I guess I don't know the seller that well, more or less stumbled across it because mutal people knew I was into cruisers and they knew this guy had one. He's an older farmer/logger just north of the border. After talking to him he seems like a straight shooter.

I knew about the 25 year and older exempt thing, I had called the border and asked. I actually know quite a few of the border guys here, US and Canada, I only live 9 miles from it.

Another question I was planning on calling and asking the border guys today, but maybe you guys know. No title, need one to get across or can a guy whip up a quick bill of sale as parts?

Not to concerned about the title, might try to obtain one, but I have a 79 FJ40 clean title I told him he could have if it was impossible to get one.

The Diesel thing just seems cool................

Thanks, Matt
why is there no title?


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Old 08-24-05, 09:26 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crushers
why is there no title?
I asked, he said he got the rig from his brother years ago and he got it from some guy up in the Yukon. He had no idea where that would be?

I did how ever since my last post call the DMV and the border patrol 9 miles north of me.

Border patrol said they didn't need a title or registration card, just a bill of sale whipped up by both parties with a price would be fine.

My local Minnesota DMV said to swing by and pick up a duplicate title form. Have the guy sign it when I pick it up, the rest I can fill out. She said, not a big deal, can obtain a new Minnesota title.

Matt


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Old 08-24-05, 09:53 AM   #11
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that sounds too easy...
congrates on having a senseable guard and DMV person... i have heard a few horror stories over the years...
cheers


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Old 08-24-05, 10:21 AM   #12
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I've been told different at the border. They told me if there is a VIN number you need a title, period, end of story. I'd check really careful. The last thing you want, even worse than a rusty pile of junk in your yard, is a rusty pile of junk at the border and you in jail for importing "stolen cars". That's the reason for the title requirement and the three business day wait. They use that time allegedly to check if the vehicle is stolen and some places presume it's stolen if you can't produce title!


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Old 08-24-05, 10:31 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crushers
that sounds too easy...
congrates on having a senseable guard and DMV person... i have heard a few horror stories over the years...
cheers

Yea that's what I thought? I work kinda in a highly visable public retail position locally and I know the people I'm talking to, gotten to know them over the years, so that probably helps?

I'm expecting a POS. Assuming everything goes as planned hopefully I can post some pics Saturday night

Matt


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Old 08-24-05, 10:35 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cruiser_guy
I've been told different at the border. They told me if there is a VIN number you need a title, period, end of story. I'd check really careful. The last thing you want, even worse than a rusty pile of junk in your yard, is a rusty pile of junk at the border and you in jail for importing "stolen cars". That's the reason for the title requirement and the three business day wait. They use that time allegedly to check if the vehicle is stolen and some places presume it's stolen if you can't produce title!

When I spoke to the border guy this morning he told me Canadian vehicles have a registration card, not a title. I'm trying to argue, just repeating what he said. He just said it wasn't required to bring this vehicle across.

Matt


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Old 08-24-05, 11:55 AM   #15
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so here i am....
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Old 08-24-05, 12:01 PM   #16
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concern: diesel sounds cool because its different but is it going to be a bust?

diesel (B which from what i found produces 80hp@3600rpm and 141ftlb@2200rpm)
vs.
gas (2F 135hp@3600rpm 210ftlb@1800 rpm)

is a guy going to be disappointed with that kind of perfomance?
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Old 08-24-05, 12:20 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HeavyLift
concern: diesel sounds cool because its different but is it going to be a bust?

diesel (B which from what i found produces 80hp@3600rpm and 141ftlb@2200rpm)
vs.
gas (2F 135hp@3600rpm 210ftlb@1800 rpm)

is a guy going to be disappointed with that kind of perfomance?

I don't think he's buying it to drag trailers around the US or anything like that, so big performance #'s aren't a huge issue. I think his main reason(s) for buying this particular cruiser is because the fact that it is a Diesel. Sometimes it's fun to be different, we don't have those cool engines in the states

I think he is honestly looking for a project and he likes the FJ40's. I know he bought an older heep a few years ago, but I think he finally is seeing the light He contacted me because I have a little back ground in brining a few 40's back from the dead. I'm going to be helping him on the initial stages of the project when he gets back from Iraq around Jan. He will be then stationed in GA for a year or so he said where he wants to try to finish it up.

My experience with my rigs is documented on my website,

www.crustycruisers.com

I finished up, "Matt's Cruiser" about 2 years ago, currently working on, "Lana's 45 Wagon" All those links are on the side bar.

I know he's emailed me a couple times this morning from Iraq this morning and now is probably watching this thread. I imagine he might pipe in with a few questions, probably under the user name, "RPGDOGER". Seems to be what he goes by...........

Matt


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Old 08-24-05, 12:21 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by buckroseau
First time in the international section, but figured this would be the place for this question(s).Thanks, Matt
Welcome

Quote:
Originally Posted by buckroseau
I also mentioned a 1978 Diesel BJ40/42 (FJ, not even sure what it is?) that I knew about across the border in Canada. Thanks, Matt
If it is a 1978 BJ40, it will have the B engine, not the 3B. The B is ok, and there are ones still hauling trucks around, and have good service left. Be warned however that when the engine does fail, parts will be very hard to come by. If a 3B has been swapped in at some point, then great, there is good support for this engine for years yet imo. It should also not have a splitcase, unless the engine/tranny has been swapped at some point.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Crushers
do a coolant pressure test, these are notorious for coolant leaks where the head cracks between the valves, do a compression test, a 3B can be an expensive engine to rebuild properly.
All good advice, except I would consider the 2LT to be the "notorious" 4cyl Toyota diesel that leaks coolant from cracks, and takes head gaskets. I would say the 3B is notorious for continuing to run even with all the abuse thrown at it. Yes, the heads develop cracks as well, occasionally leaks coolant, and drops pre-cups. In fact the 3B in Poo has developed a severe knock, and is off the road. I will post up when I find out what the issue is.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Crushers
i guess the reaso i keep bashing them is to let everyone know they are not bullet proof and you should know the seller before you buy...
Good, I am glad to hear you say this, and to hear you are on board with everyone knowing the propensity for the L series of engines to take head gaskets, crack heads and leak coolant when stressed. The cooling systems for these engines must be at peak efficiency at all times.

Quote:
Originally Posted by honk
I think that you're right to do as you do in order to both protect yourself and to try to bring people to realize that ALL mechanical devices, diesel or otherwise, do wear, breakdown, and otherwise fail to satisfy.
Correct, and good advice. Some are built better then others though…whether gasoline or diesel. This is one reason we have started doing all BEB’s on 1HD-T’s after checking a few that came through G&S, and also let everyone know that it was appearing to be an issue. I am glad other vendors have adopted this philosophy after we posted our information.

If you do get this truck for your buddy I would second Wayne’s advice about Gozzard. I really want to do a Gozzard truck at some point!

hth’s

gb
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Old 08-24-05, 12:26 PM   #19
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Matt,

HeavyLift or RPGdodger its all the same....

travis
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Old 08-24-05, 12:46 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Greg_B
If you do get this truck for your buddy I would second Wayne’s advice about Gozzard. I really want to do a Gozzard truck at some point!

hth’s

gb
I am pretty familiar with Gozzard's stuff, I used his product on my 40 that I finished a couple years ago. Pics on my site of my rig and build http://www.crustycruisers.com/matt.htm

I agree, extremely nice stuff. I'm pretty sure that's what he is leaning towards. In fact, he's posted on this thread now under, "Heavy lift". He can start answering some of these questions But unfortunetly he can only ask questions, ultimetly I am the one who has to make the descision since he is far, far away until Jan.

Matt


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Old 08-24-05, 01:00 PM   #21
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i would go with the Gozzard tub...matt has me convinced its a great option.

still wondering if that engine is gonna be a bigger headache than we think....
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Old 08-24-05, 03:35 PM   #22
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Any of you gentlemen have any experience with the B engine?
Curious if you found it underpowered....
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Old 08-24-05, 05:20 PM   #23
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The math will contradict this but the B actually *feels* faster in a stock rig. Something about the power curve I guess. I'm pretty sure it will lose in a race with a 3B powered rig but if you drive them one at a time the B will seem faster. This has been my experience anyway.

You can't really lose on an $800 rig anyway. drive it around while you fix the body and then swap in a 13BT later

My folks live just across the lake from you guys and I'm surprised there's a cruiser in NW Ontario I don't know about. I'll have to have a chat with my spies there.


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Old 08-24-05, 05:33 PM   #24
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what happens when you throw on a pair of 33's?
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Old 08-24-05, 05:35 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lowenbrau
You can't really lose on an $800 rig anyway. drive it around while you fix the body and then swap in a 13BT later :cool
Ya, I was thinking along those lines: Make sure it has a good frame, papers, and is a runner for a while. Tub it, drive it, keep your eyes out for a donor rust bucket parts truck with a 3B drivetrain, buy, build over time...swap in.

Or a 13BT

Definately factor a different engine into the picture with time...

gb
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