[vdubster]

I looked in the FSM and it tells me the glow plug timer is located under the instrument panel on the passenger side. I took the pass side kick panel off but it's not there. Can anyone help me out?

It's a 1982 BJ60 with the superglow system intact. It's really hard to start in the morning. I've checked the glow plugs and both relays. I put a voltmeter on the glow plugs and it looks to me that the timer is not letting the plugs stay on long enough.


Mike.

[Diesel Dude]

Have you tried double glowing I had to do that with one I had everytime. I let it glow then whe the light went out I turned the key off and back on and glowed it again. Did this for 400000Kms and never wore anything out any faster than normal.

[cruiser_guy]

I glow mine based on the voltmeter. Watch the volt meter and you'll see the way the system works. When the glow light goes out the volt meter jumps up a bit, when the plugs are well and true finished glowing it jumps up the rest of the way. It worked great that way when I was home in B.C. and it works even better here in Guatemala! One cycle and it fires up right away.

[vdubster]

Yes, Ive tried that method but all I really want to know is where the glow plug timer is located so that I can test it.

Thanks,

Mike.

[Greg_B]

It should be in the drivers kick panel I believe.

The fuel relay is in the passenger kick panel.

If your glow plug timer has packed it in, it's time to bypass it and go push button.

hth's

gb

[vdubster]

Thanks for your help.

Mike.

[silvercrusher]

Is there not also a sensor on your thermostat housing that is wired in to the timer. The temp/signal that it sends to the timer dictates how long the system stays active. I thought that was the case anyway. Also i hope you aren't assuming the plugs are good because they are getting voltage. You need to do a continuity/resistance test not just check for voltage. If the plugs show that they are infinate/0 ohms, they are shot. I believe they should read around 5 ohms.

[Greg_B]

Originally Posted by silvercrusher

Is there not also a sensor on your thermostat housing that is wired in to the timer. The temp/signal that it sends to the timer dictates how long the system stays active. I thought that was the case anyway. Also i hope you aren't assuming the plugs are good because they are getting voltage. You need to do a continuity/resistance test not just check for voltage. If the plugs show that they are infinate/0 ohms, they are shot. I believe they should read around 5 ohms.

Yes...If you unplug the sensor, your system should go into the max glow cycle per the FSM. The FSM has the specs for checking the temp sender too.

My superglow quit on my BJ60 just a while ago. The quick hit at the beginning was not happening, however the after glow was. I checked the high end main relay, and it was fine, it was just net getting activated by the timer. After using a wire for a few weeks, taking 12V's directly from the battery to the beginning of the glow plug current sensor heading to the busbar as a means of getting the truck started in the morning, I decided a push button would be nice and simple, and not require trouble shooting the timer. Lazy, I know. But it works great! So did the wire.

A buddy figured a way to use the stock wiring and stock relay while including the glow light, so after a little bit of wiring I now press the button, the light comes on, and the stock relay sends voltage to the busbar.

gb

[jfc]

sounds better then geeting another timer, cause you know its gona work
that what i'm gona do when mine goes
jim

[bj70alex]

I priced the pre-heating timer from a toyota dealer and even with 25% discount the price is a bout $600CAN or something in that nature.

Alex
TLCA #3558
85 BJ70
93 FZJ80

[silvercrusher]

There can't possibly be that much to one of these timers. I wonder how it works inside hmmm. $600 that is insane its probably a 10 cent diode that fries.

[Greg_B]

There a business for you then silvercruiser! Gather them all and fix, then sell. Core exchange and bob's your uncle.

gb

[brownbear]

hey Greg, do you know what your buddy did to re use the stock wiring and relays? Its time for me to go manual. I was going to run all my own wires and what not. but decided to try an alter the stock wires. removing the timer and using my self as the timer. but I don't want a lower voltage afterglow. so I will basically put it on full. with a toggle switch that you have to hold to keep on. easy to forget on when you using it after the start to settle things down. I replaced my glow plugs a few months ago and don't really see an advantage over the old ones. So I am presuming it to be a crappy timer. or wrong voltage glow plugs. either way they are getting the whole 12 v soon.

[vdubster]

Thanks for the replies. I did check the glow plugs and they test out good on the Ohmmeter. I think I'll just wire in a toggle switch at the timer itself and use the factory wiring and light. Sounds like a great ideal.


Mike.

[silvercrusher]

Do up a tech article on it and show us the wiring before and after for future reference.

[Greg_B]

Do not use a toggle switch for something like this. Use a push button that returns to the default position. In fact for this mode, use a normally open push button.

I ain't good a der tech article...so will just do a simple write-up here. I am not at home to reference the chicken scratching I created. When I get there, I will do a short write-up here.

gb

[brownbear]

Originally Posted by Greg_B

Do not use a toggle switch for something like this. Use a push button that returns to the default position. In fact for this mode, use a normally open push button.

I ain't good a der tech article...so will just do a simple write-up here. I am not at home to reference the chicken scratching I created. When I get there, I will do a short write-up here.

gb

ya that would be great. no worries if it isn't too tech, just an idea with what you did will work. I just have to think of what wires I will splice into at the timer. As the way I am going to do it maybe, is have my switch as an overide. then if I don't hold the sw the timer still does it things. my timer seems ok in the warmer temps, but the minus temps I don't feel they are on long enough.

my vw holds the glowplugs on for about 20 seconds. not the quick little blip that my bj does. normally I wait till I hear the secondary click off on the lower voltage, then I start. around 0 it normally always goes .

[cruiser_guy]

Originally Posted by brownbear

ya that would be great. no worries if it isn't too tech, just an idea with what you did will work. I just have to think of what wires I will splice into at the timer. As the way I am going to do it maybe, is have my switch as an overide. then if I don't hold the sw the timer still does it things. my timer seems ok in the warmer temps, but the minus temps I don't feel they are on long enough.

my vw holds the glowplugs on for about 20 seconds. not the quick little blip that my bj does. normally I wait till I hear the secondary click off on the lower voltage, then I start. around 0 it normally always goes .

Brownbear,
To do it this way you'd need two switches as I see it. One to maintain continuity when the timer is in use because a momentary switch in that case sort of defeats the purpose of the timer, and a second momentary switch that operates off a separate terminal from the above switch for when you don't feel the timer is quite enough.

[Greg_B]

Originally Posted by cruiser_guy

Brownbear,
To do it this way you'd need two switches as I see it. One to maintain continuity when the timer is in use because a momentary switch in that case sort of defeats the purpose of the timer, and a second momentary switch that operates off a separate terminal from the above switch for when you don't feel the timer is quite enough.

No no no....turf the timer. Throw it far away. Step on it. Give it to someone who want's to see what is wrong with it. Throw it in the scrap bin...



One switch only.

gb

[crushers]

just reading this thead,
i had a customer with a bad timer and he took it to a computor repair shop, one that knew how to read a circiuit board and he got his back in repaired state for $50...
you might want to check a shop like that ...
just a suggestion...

[cruiser_guy]

Originally Posted by Greg_B

No no no....turf the timer. Throw it far away. Step on it. Give it to someone who want's to see what is wrong with it. Throw it in the scrap bin...



One switch only.

gb

Sounded to me like he want's to keep the timer as well as add a momentary switch for really cold days. I don't know if that's possible but if it is I think two switches would be required. Probably not the wisest thing to do though.

[Greg_B]

Manual Switch Bypass Glow Timer

BJ60 Bypass

Fist off I believe I am one of many pilferer's of great ideas, and as such I hope not to get credit where credit is not due. Kudos to master Toyota Tech Ciaran Wilson of Langley, BC. He has run this system in his BJ60’s (or variations of) for at least 5 years. I am sure the LandCruiser community will be hearing more of him in the coming years.

I also do not take detailed notes, such as pin # on connections, so if anyone who uses this wants to add to the tech sheet feel free.

The fuse panel has one 7.5amp fuse marked Glow. In reality, all this fuse does it light up the glow light on the dash.

Access the glow timer in the kick panel on the drivers side. Undo the factory connection to the glow timer. Among all the wires heading up the harness are two black/red wires (opposite ends of the plug). One goes to the high end glow relay, and the other goes to the afterglow relay (picture supplied on this post; I removed the cover of the relay so it would identify easier---the one you want is on top of the inner fender, not the one beside the starter relay). I pushed a wire into one connection at the kick panel, and ran it out the door and to engine bay. I simply completed the loop at the battery using the age old “push the bare wire onto the positive pole” method, and listened for which glow relay it activated. When I got the right relay I marked and cut the wire at the harness in the kick panel.

I took the instrument cluster out, and cut the two wires going to the glow light, in effect severing the light from the harness; I believe one is black/red and one is red/white. One is powered when the key is on ACC (I think it was black/red). This is the one you want to run to one side of the NO switch. Dead head the other wire.

Run two wires off the other side of the NO switch: One to the glow light bulb pigtail you left yourself, and one to the black/red wire that heads to the main relay from the drivers side kick panel area.

Run another other wire from the back of the glow light bulb to ground of your choice (I took it to a bolt on the firewall).

Test the system, then finalize all your connections. With the key is out, you should be able to press the button, and nothing happens. Turn the key to acc and when the button is pressed current should go through to both the glow light, and the main glow relay, tripping the relay and glowing your plugs, as well as turning on the glow light.

Make sure your connections are sound (solder and shrink wrap), put back together and enjoy.

This system has been used for at least 5 years with no issues appearing. It works great on my truck. Wire it in at your own risk.

Leave the glow timer right out of the system, and you have a totally manual system. You could hook the timer back up, deadhead the one black/red cut wiring coming out the timer, and in effect have total control of the high end glow and still maintain the afterglow, if it still works.

I have not yet changed out the plugs from the 12V super glow Toyota=19850-68050 (51) 12V-6V to the manual glow 12V Toyota=19850-68010 12V-10.5V…one day.

Brownbear, I suppose one could not sever the connection at the timer relay, and simply T into that with the above wiring system. You could then “super afterglow” the system with the button if you choose.

Alternatively, you could check the wiring and see if you can do much the same as the 13BT/12HT glow system fix that Mike Forbes pioneered. I believe Stone has some excellent posts further defining this override on Mud. I have not confirmed, however if it is the same you can tap into the water sensor loop for the glow with a normally closed switch. When you push the button you in effect mimic very cold weather, and fool the system into glowing as long as the button is pushed. When you release the button, the normal glow cycle happens. Again, I have not checked to see if this would work with the BJ60 super glow system; I figured plan old manual would be the best for me.

hth’s and hope this made sense!

gb

[brownbear]

Thanks Greg, that basically tells me all. I am going to try an dive into it after work tomorrow.
just have to go buy a push buttom switch.

[brownbear]

ok, I am now manual. I did it the same way as Greg explained.

seems to work . my big test will be tomorrow. I ended up buying a decent push button from Napa. and I had to buy a little wire and shrink wrap. All in all spent about 20 dollars in parts/supplies and little less than a half hour to complete. Longest part of the work is getting your tools out and at the vehicle.

That seems to be the simplest way to convert to manual glow plugs, thanks Greg_B

[vdubster]

Thanks Greg. That looks like the best and easiest solution to my problem. I'll be rigging that system up as soon as I can.

Mike.

[brownbear]

to locate the black/red wire in the connecter at the timer my one was the thicker blk/rd. the lower voltage relay(afterglow) was the thin wire. you will see the noticeable difference.

plus it doesn't hurt to do Gregs tip of running a wire from the socket of the blk/red wire and touch it to the battery, you will hear and be able to feel for the right relay. as per his picture.

[Greg_B]

Cool...or rather...warm...

One should really change out the glow plugs to the manual 12V application, ala this thread: http://forum.ih8mud.com/diesel-tech-24-volts-systems/24821-3b-glow-plug-prices.html on post #14.

I have not yet, and I believe Ciaran said he did not change his out...but you "should".

It's back to the old days of my 1981 BJ42 where I have to glow about 8-10 seconds in the morning to get it going, and hit it a few seconds once in a while after to get the coughing gone, but at least it starts now...

gb

[brownbear]

I remember starting that post , longest glow plug discussion ever!

So Greg others mention the Y107R as a 10.5v and also as the replacement for superglows. Thats what I am using now. they were different than the originals. but they should be ok with the longer times on now?. I have heard they will handle the voltage for super extended times.

But is the manual 12v plugs you mention, they should be used. because of the longer times on? so we don't burn out the lower rated units?

I had the best start this morning then I have ever had, it was minus 7 or so, unpluged and not an ounce of smoke. I held the button for about 20 secs.

we need a FAQ section, some of these really good posts should make the list. Thanks for the tech right up again.

[Greg_B]

Dunno BB. I would think the 10.5 will hold up fine...better then the super glow 6V's anyway. The manual 12V plugs from Denso are 10.5-12V. I would like to see the voltage stamped on the side of the NGK Y-147T , as the Y107R match's what I would have thought was needed. A number of sources, including NGK Canada have said that the Y-147T is the correct cross over though.

So...all you repair folks who will install this system on customers Cruisers, and those who will install it on their own...how about calling it the "Wilson Switch". Then in 10 years we can sit around campfires and listen to people talking about a manual over ride that someone hooked up, saying it's call the Wilson switch...and asking..."Why is it called the Wilson Switch?)

gb

[brownbear]

Wilson it is! lol