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Old 02-08-06, 02:22 PM   #31
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The full voltage part of my timer has failed so I read this thread and looked at the wiring diagram to make sense of the above mod. I see two potential adendums to the proposed mod. First, what about running the glow plug indicator light directly off the glow plug bus bar? The advantage would be that the indicator lights up whenever power is applied to the glow plugs. The second is to run a NO double pole toggle switch that would activate the primary glow relay in one position and the afterglow relay in the other position. The advantage to this arrangement is that you have complete control (as mentioned) but all the control is housed in a single switch. Do these adendums seem plausible?

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Old 02-08-06, 04:48 PM   #32
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personally, I would not bother with afterglow. just use the primary for an afterglow when you're started.

what ever you use for the switch, ensure it turn off when you let go. Otherwise if you leave them on you will cook them possible to molten metal.

having the indicator light off the busbar will only tell you the relay works. Doing it as mentioned above is simple but will not tell you if the relay has stopped. Neither way is going to tell you that the glow plugs work, they could be burnt out.
I know when the glows are getting power based on the nose dive the volt meter does. And the light is not really needed. But does look nice to look at.

The light is nice if you use a switch that stays on, it can tell you that you left it on. But with a push button switch its not nessacary.

But its your mod, do as you please. Have mulitple switches and afterglows if you wish.

I like the simplicty of the mod Greg descibes.

Put in 10.5 volt glow plugs, lose the resistor and you will have great starts.

I left the resistor in and have to glow longer. As well use more battery juice.....I will remove it soon.


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Old 02-09-06, 09:26 AM   #33
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So which bit is the resistor? The manual is not too clear on this. I had a look last night and the only thing that I suspect might be the resistor is the part of the bus bar that looks like stainless. To bypass that could a fella just solder some ends on a bit of 1 Ga. and run from the post used by the relays?

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Old 11-13-07, 03:42 PM   #34
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Will this set-up work on a 86 hj60? Thx
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Old 11-13-07, 11:49 PM   #35
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Originally Posted by knorrena View Post
So which bit is the resistor? The manual is not too clear on this. I had a look last night and the only thing that I suspect might be the resistor is the part of the bus bar that looks like stainless. To bypass that could a fella just solder some ends on a bit of 1 Ga. and run from the post used by the relays?

Karl
The resistor is on the busbar. It's the one for the 6 volt plugs. Which are meant for fast heat and short glow.

The afterglow has a resistor as well, which I think is in the timer box, but I dunno.

To bypass the resistor you may be able to just stack the lead and bar together under the nut that screws into the resistor. And leave the resistor in place.


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Old 11-13-07, 11:51 PM   #36
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Will this set-up work on a 86 hj60? Thx
You mean go manual? It should work. But I don't know for sure.

Search "wilson" for some ideas.


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Old 11-14-07, 12:05 AM   #37
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it will work just fine make sure you wire it up from the main relay to the glow bar if not you will fry the after glow (because 4 will do it, 6 will do it faster)
I have a bj60 was super glow (now manual glow), and im almost 100% sure the hj60 super glow is the same system just 6 plugs instead of 4
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Old 11-14-07, 12:10 AM   #38
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i also switched plugs to ngk y-147T they are 10.5 volt and i can start my truck at -45 and fire the plugs for two mins + (it usualy only needs 15 sec to start and run smooth)
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Old 11-14-07, 07:45 PM   #39
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I took a voltage reading at the glow bar---glow 8.9 volts and 10.7volts afterglow. Are these reading correct for hj60 24volts system unmodified? Thx
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Old 12-02-07, 01:14 PM   #40
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Hmm, mike, those voltages seem backwards.


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Old 12-03-07, 06:57 AM   #41
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Yes those are the voltage readings I got . What should they be? Thx
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Old 12-06-07, 01:24 PM   #42
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The voltage at the bus bar should be higher (hotter plugs) in the initial glow phase, and lower in the afterglow (cooler plugs).


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Old 12-06-07, 09:22 PM   #43
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The voltage at the bus bar should be higher (hotter plugs) in the initial glow phase, and lower in the afterglow (cooler plugs).
What could be cause perhaps my timer has screwed up?
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Old 12-08-07, 11:31 PM   #44
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Sounds like fun from a previous owner... double-check all that wiring, and then suspect the timer.


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