Turbo Position

[Diesel Dude]

Ya it is a unique one for sure. I had many people scratchin there head over it. But you should be able to get a tighter bend on the hard line then the braided line anyway because if you bend the braided line too much then you crack the inner coating.

[wesintl]

metric inverted flair 12x1.25 I think?. I went by 2 race shops that have all the different fittings. Most of the Hydro places don't deal with anything less than 3/4. Best I could come up with was compression fitting to the hard line or cutting the inverted flair and having it welded to a T then I can run it straigt to a -4 braided line. The later is quite a few dollars though.

I'll definatly consider a body lift but I dout I can get it done at the same time as this DIY. Did you use a 40 series body lift Bruce? Thanks!

wes

[lowenbrau]

I can't remember why but I left my BJ70 with Rob Mullen for six months while I was working out of town. I think the mad scientist had some 70 series ideas that Alf wouldn't let him experiment on his truck so mine became the Guinea pig. It had no lift at the time. Rob used chunks of 2x4 tubing which he cut in half to make u shaped pieces. He bolted these to the factory body mounts and then used 4 runner stock height replacement bushings. I'll snap a photo next time I'm at the farm (where my 70 is) to explain better.

The short answer is, you can do this yourself with 32 nuts and bolts, about 2' of 2x4 HSS, a drill and a grinder with a cutting disc.

Cheers,

[wesintl]

Hey another member mentioned that the turbo being only 1/8 to 1/4 inch from the hood would melt the paint. I really didn't think of this now that I found the banjo for the pressure line. Any thoughts? I don't have any hood insulation. I knew it was close but I didn't think of the heat from it.

Regards,
Wes

[Diesel Dude]

You can buy heat tape which is sticky on one side and very shinny this does a very good job of deflecting heat. If you are really worried you can buy a silicon heat deflector it is wooly on one side and a orange silicon on the other, I use it on my sled and my exhasut pipe touches my coolant line with this being the only protector and it hasnt wore it down at all. Ill try to get some pictures as well as a more exact name for the stuff.
Cheers

[Radd Cruisers]

Originally Posted by crushers

i will be posting a few pics once this one is done... it should be wrapped up tomorrow and in for the exhaust shortly after that...

Did you get a chance to shoot a couple of pics?

[Nic]

any updates?

[wesintl]

none from me.. The turbo is so close to the hood I dunno if it will work on a 7x. Besides the paint I don't know if the engine torque will cause it to hit the hood. I'm still kinda 50/50 on whether to spend the time and money to see if it will barly fit. Otherwise I'll sell the turbo and parts that I have. I'm sure a bj42 and bj60 have more room. Once I get back from moab I'll access what i'm going to do and if i'm going to sell it.

[crushers]

not from me either since the truck is not in my hands any longer...
cheers

[brownbear]

I looked at DieselDudes set up yesturday. It was a super clean looking install. I like the idea of using the mitusbishi turbo. Not having to deal with welding adapters is a good thing.

Diesel dude took me for a ride and it pulled nicely. I think for a good economical turbo this is the choice.

[tlcruiserman]

I will shoot some pictures of 13BT turbo on 3B when I get out to shop tonight, stay tuned...

Cheers,

Michael

[tlcruiserman]

Here are promised pictures:

[expat]

Is that a grainger valve between the two pieces of blue tubing?

[tlcruiserman]

Originally Posted by expat

Is that a grainger valve between the two pieces of blue tubing?

Yes it is.

[Diescipel]

Stoney -- should we sticky this one? Tons of Turbo info. OR maybe link it to the FAQ for turbo info.

B

[wesintl]

Originally Posted by lowenbrau

Wesintl,

Man, 70s are begging for a body lift. 1.5" max. Everything is so much easier then. The front clip has a second set of holes that work well for dropping the rad. The fuel tank tucks up for better protection. The t-case shifter drops into the floor so passengers don't interfere with it.

I can see what your talking about now. Steve Morris from Ontario had a body lift on his 70 and I would have never known. I just may pursue that route. Thanks!!

[dieselcruiserhead]

back to top for this ols school thread...

We are turboing a Can spec '84 BJ42 and are thinking of taking the
Mitsu TC05-10A route.. Probably do a custom exhaust at the same time but am worried about too much boost at highway speeds if we really open up the exhaust (3")? Found a few of the turbos for about $200-$350 on ebay, possibly a little high? I would love to find one locally if possible and pull all the oil feed fittings and other stuff as opposed to sourcing the parts all over like Wes..

Anyone else every try this turbo install and did it work well? Seems to be plenty of room for the turbo and the oil feed line under the tall hood of the BJ42 of course...

[cody c]

if anyone is looking to weld onto their existing manifold for a turbo you want to find a nickel-iron rod. you'll be looking for these labels: A5.15, which is the aws class and ENiFe-CI which means electrode nickel iron for welding cast iron. you can get a product from acklands that is something like UTP-55 which means 55% nickel, typically most rod of this kind is 45%-60% nickel. if it says something like Ni-99 it is a nickel rod not nickel iron and will work but may not be quite as good as nickel iron. these rods are also made for dissimilar metals but SA-106 "grade-b or high temp carbon pipe" i'm told is better for the heat involved. but just regular steel plate to the SA-106 pipe with regular welding rod should be ok.sorry for high jacking the direction but thought the info might help anyone deciding to go this route. and now back to the mitsu's.

[Radd Cruisers]

Originally Posted by dieselcruiserhead

back to top for this ols school thread...

We are turboing a Can spec '84 BJ42 and are thinking of taking the
Mitsu TC05-10A route.. Probably do a custom exhaust at the same time but am worried about too much boost at highway speeds if we really open up the exhaust (3")? Found a few of the turbos for about $200-$350 on ebay, possibly a little high? I would love to find one locally if possible and pull all the oil feed fittings and other stuff as opposed to sourcing the parts all over like Wes..

Anyone else every try this turbo install and did it work well? Seems to be plenty of room for the turbo and the oil feed line under the tall hood of the BJ42 of course...

Hey Andre, I had been burned twice on ebays with turbos, be leary.

Rob

[mallred]

Originally Posted by Radd Cruisers

Hey Andre, I had been burned twice on ebays with turbos, be leary.

Rob

Got burnt once myself on a turbo, my first neg feedback given out.

Myrle

[wesintl]

Originally Posted by dieselcruiserhead

I would love to find one locally if possible and pull all the oil feed fittings and other stuff as opposed to sourcing the parts all over like Wes..

Finding a d-50 in the yard is a needle in a haystack. I dunno what the later turbos came one.

I wouldn't worry about the oil line. I found a 2 fittings that would work. I wouldn't use that hard line with a banjo fitting anyway. I'd run the adaptor to a braided line. The intake hoses are pretty much worthless (imho) and the cast steel exhaust from the turbo shouldn't be a big deal since I know you can fab one.

I sold my set up though.

[dieselcruiserhead]

I hope I don't get burned, that would suck.. Looks like a brand new unit though, we got it for $199. A little expensive but all considering, not too bad.. See how it goes I suppose.. Thanks for the heads up though guys...

[cruise diesel]

I am new to Ih8mud, but a long time cruiser guy. I recently picked up a 1984 BJ-42 from Canada, it is an amazing truck. However, I live in Park City, UT @7000 ft. above sea level, the engine needs a boost. I bought a mitsu turbo, it is oil cooled and I am having a hard time finding oil fittings, lines, etc. Could you give me some more info on this Dodge turbo, sounds like a great alternative. I would appraciate a part # , thanks so much.

cruise diesel

[brownbear]

Hello this is an old thread brought back to life.

Reading above with guys having a hard time finding fittings.. not sure if this is applicable.
But why would anyone want to use a banjo fitting for oil pressure to the turbo? or tee it off of the transmitter or low oil px switch? You can pull the plug out near the front of the oil passage and install a 1/8 BSP to 1/4 jic fitting and then run a 1/4 inch pressure line up to your turbo. For return it is very simple to weld a fitting onto the oil pan. Go double the size(.500 inch).

I pulled my return line off and inserted into a milk jug, at idle there was a pretty good flow of oil thru there.

I would be very worried to rob the alternator of any of its oil. I think the only reason axt uses the alt oil is it's very simple to hook up to there. no drilling and welding.

[cruise diesel]

Thanks for the idea, that is the way we are going to go.

[Radd Cruisers]

Old thread for sure, but all this talk about turbos and clocking plus water or no water side which is best.

Seems its leaning towards no water????

[magnus_heydoc]

i was burned as well on ebay.........bought a turbo and it had glass beads down inside it. It sounds like the Lebaron turbo is the simplist.

[Radd Cruisers]

Pretty sure the D50 truck is by far the best fit and most claim good power from that unit, from down low.

Originally Posted by magnus_heydoc

i was burned as well on ebay.........bought a turbo and it had glass beads down inside it. It sounds like the Lebaron turbo is the simplist.