Turbo Position

[wesintl]

I"ll take some measurements and try and find another turbo shop that can make me the fittings from the turbo to the intake and the airbox to the turbo. I figured if you had a place make one they could probably repro it real easy.

[Diesel Dude]

The best place to make your intake tubing is a muffler shop those specialty shops tend to charge a lot of extra money. my .02

[jzilla]

I drain mine in the oil pan, it wasn't that hard. taking the oil pan off is pretty easy.
I agree that is a clean setup. Congrats.
What u guys think about a hood scoop or something to slam as much air into the turbo as possible? I guess a snorkle would work too, but i d'ont know about cutting a hole in the hood.

[crushers]

if you slam air into the intake then you could also slam water in as well... air good, SMALL amounts of water ie rain good
large amounts $$$$
cheers

[Diesel Dude]

I agree with wayne lots of water. not good. However I was thinking of putting a scoop on mine and then putting an intercooler on top of the engine this would allow a intercooler that doesnt block air flow to my rad, which is already jepordized by my winch and lights and things.

[crushers]

the closer the intake for the scoop is to the front of the hood the better the air flow... i can not see why that idea wouldn't work...
cheers

[jzilla]

By slam I wasn't suggesting I wanted water, just air, but I know what you are saying. I might give the scoop a shot, what would be the best way to limit rain water from entering?

[wesintl]

When you guys T off the alt vac. Diesel dude made his own banjo bolt for it but both oil lines still compete with the size of the banjo bolt hole into the block. I'm thinking of just T into the soft line since the oil still has to compete either there or at banjo. Trying to find a banjo like that is difficult and I'd probably have to pay someone to make a bolt like that.

[crushers]

on all the "B" series engines there is another spot to tap full pressure from. i will have pics soon for those that are interested in not starving their vacumm pump of oil...
cheers

[Diesel Dude]

Yes the bolt I made has a slightly larger boar than stock and it is a bit longer however the bolt size is the same, I guess having access to a machine shop really does pay off.

[wesintl]

For pressure I T'd off the sender.. I'm talking about the scavange line back into the block.

[crushers]

the rule of thumb is twice the size of the pressure line for the return line, if you run both into the same return then one or the other will be restricted and the return line that you talk about is too small for the turbo return line by itself let alone for yet more oil to try and find it's way home.
twice is minimum, i was told 3 times the size is even better. and i was informed a long time ago NO 90 degree bends.
remember that the return line is gravity fedd, not pressure...
cheers

[Diesel Dude]

Do you have some pictures that you could post of how you tapped into your oil pans or some other drain ideas. I live in Calgary so I wouldnt mind comin down and havin a look either if you got soem time.
Email me at docwarren@shaw.ca
Thanxs

[wesintl]

yeah.. Just my point was that the restriction seems to be the same wether it's at the banjo or T'ing the soft line. I might just hook it up now to T the soft line just to get it running. Once I want to make a mess I'll pull and tap the pan.

[Diesel Dude]

Once you tap into you soft line though from the T down ALL of your draining oil from the turbo AND from the vac pump are going down that line. Somthin to think about.

[crushers]

Originally Posted by Diesel Dude

Do you have some pictures that you could post of how you tapped into your oil pans or some other drain ideas. I live in Calgary so I wouldnt mind comin down and havin a look either if you got soem time.
Email me at docwarren@shaw.ca
Thanxs

i will be posting a few pics once this one is done... it should be wrapped up tomorrow and in for the exhaust shortly after that...

[wesintl]

Well maybe someone with a bj42 or a bj60 wants to try out this turbo. I don't think I can get the oil line to clear the hood. Fawk me!

The hood on the 70 slopes down and has no room

[cruiser_guy]

Originally Posted by wesintl

When you guys T off the alt vac. Diesel dude made his own banjo bolt for it but both oil lines still compete with the size of the banjo bolt hole into the block. I'm thinking of just T into the soft line since the oil still has to compete either there or at banjo. Trying to find a banjo like that is difficult and I'd probably have to pay someone to make a bolt like that.

All I did with the FJ55/3B was get a barbed connector of the size to take the oil return hose from the turbo, get someone to braze the barbed connector to the end of the banjo bolt and then run the biggest drill bit that fits in the connector to open up the banjo bolt for oil return from the turbo. It got me a 1/2" diameter return line straight into the block and the banjo bolt still works as originally intended and the turbo return hose itself is even larger than 1/2"! I'm sure that's loads better than a double banjo bolt and it won't be significantly obstructing the altenator/vacuum pump oil return either.

[David*BJ70]

Originally Posted by wesintl

Well maybe someone with a bj42 or a bj60 wants to try out this turbo. I don't think I can get the oil line to clear the hood. Fawk me!

The hood on the 70 slopes down and has no room

So I understand that your Mitsu Turbo don't work under the 70 hood with the flip manifold ?

I'ts bad for me too now... I was planing to make the same !

[wesintl]

THe turbo just clears (or should I say touches) the hood with no insulation. But so far I can't find a way to get the oil pressure line to clear.

[lowenbrau]

Wesintl,

Man, 70s are begging for a body lift. 1.5" max. Everything is so much easier then. The front clip has a second set of holes that work well for dropping the rad. The fuel tank tucks up for better protection. The t-case shifter drops into the floor so passengers don't interfere with it. You can install the valve for your hydraulic winch on top of the rad shroud... no, on second thought, scratch that last one it was a dumb idea. It will, however, provide the necessary room for the H55f Toybox that I talked to CJ at Marlin Crawler about today.

I'll trade an HJ60 for a ToyBox.
I'll trade a BJ60 for a ToyBox.
I'll trade a set of 70 series axles c/w 4:88s and cash for a ToyBox.

Jeez i wonder what I should ask for for Christmas?

[crushers]

nice pic there Bruce...

[Radd Cruisers]

Originally Posted by lowenbrau

Wesintl,

Man, 70s are begging for a body lift. 1.5" max. Everything is so much easier then. The front clip has a second set of holes that work well for dropping the rad. The fuel tank tucks up for better protection. The t-case shifter drops into the floor so passengers don't interfere with it. You can install the valve for your hydraulic winch on top of the rad shroud... no, on second thought, scratch that last one it was a dumb idea. It will, however, provide the necessary room for the H55f Toybox that I talked to CJ at Marlin Crawler about today.

I'll trade an HJ60 for a ToyBox.
I'll trade a BJ60 for a ToyBox.
I'll trade a set of 70 series axles c/w 4:88s and cash for a ToyBox.

Jeez i wonder what I should ask for for Christmas?

After the 1HZ intot the 45 and putting a 1.5 body lift I am sold on this making life real pleasant during a install.

At first I thought it was taboo, but after speaking with Mike M in Surrey he also agreed this is the way to go for ease of installation.

Nice pic.

[wesintl]

Originally Posted by lowenbrau

Wesintl,

Man, 70s are begging for a body lift. 1.5" max.

It's always something. Personally I don't like the look of body lifts but that's just me. Not to mention the rust thats probably hiding in the body mount sections. It could be another major project in itself. At least it's a better idea than my buddy came up with. He said to cut into the hood and put a scoop on it. I'm not that ghetto yet.

I'm going to try and get a tighter bend on the pressure tube(like a brake line). But I've about had it with this DIY project.

[crushers]

i was never a big fan either of body lifts til i saw Bruces... it looks like it should have been that way form the factory... maybe it is just his but it looks good, the 70 is aobut one of the few trucks tha t does...

[crushers]

Originally Posted by Diesel Dude

Okay I got it.

Todd,
i was thinking about your setup last night and may i make a suggestion?
pull the pyro out of the exhaust for a bit and mount it close to your throttle body and see what type of temps you are pushing into the engine. i would be very curious to see how hot it really is getting in there. the harder a trubo has to work the hotter the air being charged is...
then after you intercool you can test again and see how cold the air really is... it would be nice to know...
cheers

[cruiser_guy]

Originally Posted by wesintl

I'm going to try and get a tighter bend on the pressure tube(like a brake line). But I've about had it with this DIY project.

Check the local hydraulic hose supplier. They have a good selection of fittings available. I had to do the same thing with the water line on my AXT kit to ensure that the oil drain was pointed vertically down and to allow the clearance required at the valve cover. I gained a 1/2" with their fitting suggestions.

[crushers]

the fitting should be a pipe thread into the housing so go to your local fittings place and get a 90 degree and about a 1" male/female pipe thread extension this should let you clear the turbo and have the line come in nice and low...
HTH