[alpinecowboy]

I just ordered a new alternator from Rock Auto for my BJ60 - it is an 81 with the external regular. Well, what I got looks nothing like the one that is in the rig:

More Information for REMY 14339

The one in the rig has a box bolted to the top of the alternator and then a ton of stuff mounted to the back of it. I'm not as solid mechanically with diesels as I am with gassers so I'm not 100% sure what I'm missing on this one.

The one on the truck looks more like the one with the internal regulator:
More Information for REMY 14340

My truck is a hybrid BJ60 + FJ62 so I don't have good info on the donor rig that was the BJ.

Any way of telling for sure which one is on my truck? Sorry for thew newbie question - I tried to search but didn't come back with much. I just want to make sure I order the correct part this time.

Attached is a pic of my alternator as well.

Thanks
Koby

[cruiser_guy]

How about neither!

The "thing" on the back of the altenator is a vacuum pump. Diesels do not produce vacuum so you need an alternate source and that is what Toyota did.

What EXACTLY makes you think you need a new altenator? Is the old one not rebuildable? Often the regulator is bad or the brushes are short, both are easily available stateside. I have only had one that was on my trucks that needed rebuilding. I currently have two in for rebuilding (I have a stash of spares just in case) that I bought and do not know the condition of. It will be tough to impossible to find the right altenator stateside for that truck.

I think one of the ones I have in for rebuilding now is like yours.

I could potentially do an exchange on one of mine but I'd need your old one first.

The altenator you need is one from a non-power steering equipped BJ60. That would be '81 or '82. You also need the internally regulated one, not an external regulator. The regulator is under the cap where the red wire is attached.

[alpinecowboy]

Cruiser_guy
Thanks a ton for jumping on this.

My rig is my daily driver so I need to be able to fix it in a single day, hence the completely rebuilt alternator as I figured it would be plug and play.

I am looking at replacing the alt because the current one is not charging well. My batteries keep dying and I had the alternator tested and it is barely hitting 12.... barely. My gut is that the batteries aren't getting a full charge and are slowly getting killed each time I start the rig up... the drive just isn't enough to get them back up to full power.

I could do the brushes/vr but for $55 plus shipping a totally rebuilt alternator seems like a good deal.

Are you saying that neither of the alternators Rockauto has for the BJ60's are correct?

Thanks in advance
Koby

[jfc]

The ones in the links dont look right, if you are good at sodering than you can change the brushes yourself pretty quick, brushes should be less that $5, or just take the brushes out an bring it too a auto electic place, and they should do it for you with no more than an hour labour, would probably be less thatn the $55, but you never know.

[cruiser_guy]

You will not find the right altenator for $55 I can guarantee that! If you do, buy all of them 'cause they are worth MUCH more!

I consider it a decent deal to get a take out for a couple of hundred dollars!

That's right, none of the altenators you posted links for is the right one. I suspect they think that the FJ60 and BJ60 use the same altenator, they do NOT!

The regulator is about $30-40 and the brushes should be available at any altenator rebuilder or auto-electric shop.

If you are reasonably handy you should be able to change both in the auto-electric places yard. Just make sure you disconnect batteries first!!

[american psycho]

is that a 12 or a 24 volt?

i've found on ebay in germany both alternators new without core charges for around €100 - just gotta get them to ship stateside.

Here is a link

[alpinecowboy]

It's a 12 volt. Thanks for the links on that.

I'll try the voltage regulator/new brushes route. Too bad that the alternators at Rock are wrong - they've always been great in the past for finding parts.

Anyone know where I can get a new voltage regulator?

[roalco]

Alpinecowboy, if you pull the black cover off the top of your alt (remove the wires and the second nut) the regulator is right underneath, sitting on the brush holder. Call up a local alternator repair shop and ask for a "Transpo" (brand) IN218 voltage regulator (about $30), it is a common unit used in lots of 12v vehicles. It is a direct replacement for the Denso 12V 126000-0180 which is a direct replacement for a toyota 27700-57060-84 (@ about $182). While you are at it, ask them for a DA46 brush set (about $7). My local alternator guy says these are common parts too.
BJ60 alternators have a weak spot, the vacuum pump drive splines, but other than that, they just keep on putting out, with a regulator relacement every decade or so.
It's only about a half hour job to replace the regulator and brushes.
Good luck!

[alpinecowboy]

roalco
that rocks, thank you for that. someone else mentioned "if I'm good at soldering I can replace my brushes".... how good do I have to be?

[roalco]

Sorry, just had to run out to the shop to get my spare brush set (to jog my memory...). It's dead easy, if you have a soldering gun. All you have to do is, one at a time, unsolder the two lugs on the top of the brush holder, let the springs pull the brush and braided wire out of the body, clean the holes of excess solder so you can pull the brush wires through (with the springs on!!!) and then resloder the wires to the lugs (ensuring you have given them enough slack for the brushes to feed out of the holder. I seem to recal there is a measurement for this in the FSM. Oh and make sure you check the way the curve at the end of the brush (the face that sits on the commutator) sits on the brush set you take out, and make sure the new ones go in the same way. You'll understand when you look at it. Or ask the shop guy to do it, I'm sure it wouldn't take him more than 10 minutes (an a case of beer).

[alpinecowboy]

Thanks a ton

[Dieseler]

Make sure you have a good hold on the brushes while you are soldering because if you dont they will shoot out along with the spring....been there a few times