Solar Converter - Final Setup.

[Canuck]

Originally Posted by Stone

I have a 6-gang fuseblock that uses the regular automotive ATC fuses in my passenger side kick panel. I've used up 5 slots already...waiting for my Hella 8-gang to arrive. I don't really have a link to the whole setup, just ask any questions you may have. Cheers.

Hey Stone, how did you mount the fuse box in the passenger kick panel and where did you buy the 6-gang fuseblock?

[Stone]

Originally Posted by Canuck

Hey Stone, how did you mount the fuse box in the passenger kick panel and where did you buy the 6-gang fuseblock?

Just screwed it into the sheet metal behind the kcik panel and routed the wires behind it. I'm sure there are probably better places to mount it, and it's easy enough to make a bracket for it...someone will eventually make a suggestion. The fuse block brand is Cole Hersee and is available in a larger size than a 6-gang. I bought mine from Lordco for around $23 CAD + taxes.

The Hella fusebox is interesting. It is cheaper and is easily adaptable to whatever size you want. It also looks kind of OEM with a clear splash resistant clear cover. The only thing I don't like it that you have to solder the wire that supplies the box and also solder short leads coming from the fused locations that you can splice to later. But it has potential for being a cleaner install.

[Canuck]

Thanks for the reply Stone. Where did you order the Hella box from. I looked on their website but can't find any info or even part numbers. I wouldn't need an 8 gang, probably only a 6 if they make that.

[Stone]

Also from Lordco.

Fourth link from the bottom of the list on the left side of the page:

http://www.hella.com/produktion/Hell.../ElecProd2.pdf

[Canuck]

Cool, thanks!

[Canuck]

Picked up my Solar Convertor this week from Greg_B (thanks again Greg ) and have to get going with the install. Those of you that have these mounted, did you run the 12V wire into the cab through an existing hole or did you make a new one?

[beauh]

i found an awesome spot for my solar. right under the glove box. bolt it upside down in to the bottom of the glove box. You can run the wires into the same hole in the firewall as the a/c condensation tube.

[Greg_B]

Originally Posted by Technikev

Hey Stone, correct me if I'm wrong in my thinking on this, but there is something that has been sort of bugging me since i read this post a while ago: instead of using a manual switch like you did, couldn't a person instead use a relay and hook the wire up to the normally open leads like you did with the switch and then when you turned the key to the run position, it would close the relay and complete that circuit, switching over to battery equalization instead of 12 volt conversion. This would just require one extra wire off the ignition on circuit to switch the relay. I would use 24 v to avoid any possible goofyness when switching the 12 v source.

That way one wouldn't have to remember to switch the switch to equalization when driving or back off when not using the vehicle for a long duration. Just a thought, but would like someone else's opinion on this.

-Kevin

I did just this yesterday, and will be running it for the winter to test it out.

All my 12V needs are fed from a 12V fusebox in the cab, direct from the converter.

I tapped off the 12V feed line, in the engine bay, routed this to a 24V relay, then returned from the relay to the positive pole on the lowside battery. The relay is tripped from the power supply box underhood, using the ignition connection.

I could not find a HD 24V relay that had a diode, so while I do not anticipate any issues...we will see.

Relay #87113. Pg 18 of this PDF: http://www.hella.com/produktion/Hell.../ElecProd1.pdf

hth's

gb

[curious1]

Have any of you guys used the converter to do the opposite? I need it to go from 12V to 24 volts. If I read the instructions correctly it does not equalize the batteries in this mode. Is this true? I actually don't need to equalize my batteries because I am using a painless dual battery isolator. I need the converter to supply 24V to my glow timer, glow screen, tach and turbo lights. I think that it will not have enough amperage. I have an FJ60 in the states that I installed a 12HT motor into. The crusier is 12 Volts but the engine acessories are 24 volt.

[Greg_B]

Originally Posted by curious1

Have any of you guys used the converter to do the opposite? I need it to go from 12V to 24 volts. If I read the instructions correctly it does not equalize the batteries in this mode. Is this true? I actually don't need to equalize my batteries because I am using a painless dual battery isolator. I need the converter to supply 24V to my glow timer, glow screen, tach and turbo lights. I think that it will not have enough amperage. I have an FJ60 in the states that I installed a 12HT motor into. The crusier is 12 Volts but the engine acessories are 24 volt.

Maybe contact Stickboy of this thread: http://forum.ih8mud.com/diesel-tech-24-volts-systems/12794-13bt-into-fj60.html

He installed a 24V 13BT into a FJ60, and is using a Solar Converter to supply the vehicle with it's 12V needs.

hth's

gb

[The Dude]

Stone,

What happened to your pictures???

I would love to see them again.

And any that you have Greg.

[Stone]

Originally Posted by The Dude

Stone,

What happened to your pictures???

I would love to see them again.

And any that you have Greg.

Hi Brad:

Sorry about that...I was cleaning up my photo website and I thought that the Solar Converter pics have been up for a while and that I could take them down. I'm out of town right now (visiting family in Kelowna), so I'll put them back up when I get back to the Coast on Sunday.

Cheers,
Stone

[Greg_B]

Originally Posted by Stone

Hi Brad:

Sorry about that...I was cleaning up my photo website and I thought that the Solar Converter pics have been up for a while and that I could take them down. I'm out of town right now (visiting family in Kelowna), so I'll put them back up when I get back to the Coast on Sunday.

Cheers,
Stone

Here is a picture of the HD relay and the converter install location on my BJ74.

Best diagram is the wiring schematic that Stone made up detailing his manual load balance/strict convert mode. Simply substitute the manual switch for the relay.

The relay is just below the left side hood hinge, close to the batteries to minimize run length. I used ignition power from the underhood "Power Box" to trip the relay and go to load balance.

hth's

gb

[Stone]

Hi Brad:

I put the pics of my own Solar Converter install in my BJ74 back up for you. Also put up the wiring diagram again with the marine switch for Load Balance/Convert modes.

Here's a couple of pics of one install that I did in a HJ61. The location is on the inside fender, passenger side of the vehicle. Same idea here with fabricating a simple metal bracket to hold the converter and use empty factory bolt locations to avoid drilling more holes.


When the wires are run neatly and loomed properly, it makes for a clean install. Can't really even tell that there's extra wires from this pic:

[The Dude]

thanks guys!!

I have all the pics dl so I won't lose them again!

[Diesel Weasel]

Did you fab that mounting bracket for the converter yourself Stone? Is it possible to buy one?

[Stone]

Originally Posted by Diesel Weasel

Did you fab that mounting bracket for the converter yourself Stone? Is it possible to buy one?

Yup...it was really easy and nothing fancy. It was a matter of using some cardboard to shape the right template that will have holes in the right places for two bolts in the empty factory locations. I then just kept those templates and now have one for a BJ74 (without the fancy headlight washer system) and an HJ61.

[Tim-HJ61]

Not sure why the focus on a solar convertor to do the battery balancing act when it's not built for this purpose. In my HJ61 24v I use a Redarc Battery Equaliser to do the job. Works fine.

I've installed it upside down underneath the high 12V battery (there's a great hidey hole underneath these if you've not discovered that) and feed the equaliser from the +ve and -ve of that same high 12v battery. Not the best place for creek crossings, but fine for the dust I'm usually encountering. I've installed a relay to the ACC to ensure the Equaliser switches off, other than that, it's entirely automatic and faultless.

Redarc is an Australian company with a good reputation here.
http://www.redarc.com.au/new/ce.htm

Tim

[Stone]

Originally Posted by Tim-HJ61

Not sure why the focus on a solar convertor to do the battery balancing act when it's not built for this purpose. In my HJ61 24v I use a Redarc Battery Equaliser to do the job. Works fine.

I've installed it upside down underneath the high 12V battery (there's a great hidey hole underneath these if you've not discovered that) and feed the equaliser from the +ve and -ve of that same high 12v battery. Not the best place for creek crossings, but fine for the dust I'm usually encountering. I've installed a relay to the ACC to ensure the Equaliser switches off, other than that, it's entirely automatic and faultless.

Redarc is an Australian company with a good reputation here.
http://www.redarc.com.au/new/ce.htm

Tim

Huh?!? What makes you say that the Solar Converter is "not built" for equalizing batteries? This is a direct quote taken from Solar Converter's site regarding the converter:

When connected as a battery equalizer, it allows large transient 12 V loads to be taken off the centre tap of a 24 V battery (made of 2 X 12 V batteries) without fear of upsetting the voltage balance of the battery and destroying the 24 V battery system that would otherwise occur.

http://www.solarconverters.com/product_frame.html


As for Redarc, I have heard good things about their products, and spent some time on the phone with them a little while ago regarding their 24-12v trailer logic circuit. Very nice and helpful people on the phone. But...I haven't been able to find a dealer on this continent, and I'm not about to ship a product back and forth to Oz if there are any warranty issues. Solar Converters have been well suited to our applications here so far, and they stand behind their product very well.

[Tim-HJ61]

I stand corrected.

I did not check the exact product you had been talking about and was trying to be helpful in suggesting an alternative I knew to work. I 'assumed', clearly incorrectly, you were talking about a solar regulator.

Tim

[Eric Winkworth]

Sorry to be annoying but I was wondering where you put the diagram back up, hope to install one this summer and get rid of my factory converter.

[Stone]

Eric: Post #14.

Tim: No worries. Like I said, Redarc puts out good products...I just wish they had a North American dealer. I guess with even the big rigs going to a 12V system, there really isn't much of a market on this side of the ocean to sustain that type of dealership.

[Eric Winkworth]

Such a nice diagram, looks nice and easy.

Where did you get the switch from and fuse box from?

[Stone]

Any marina will have the proper HD switch.

[BiffS]

so if using a 12V stereo with a Solar (or similar) convertor, I beleive that the stereo case is a chssis ground style of set up.

Would this present a problem if feeding a 12+ and a 12- to it if operating on a pure 24V truck? The metal frame of the deck would come into contact with the live chassis points, and I have a totally 24V truck.

[zander]

Originally Posted by BiffS

so if using a 12V stereo with a Solar (or similar) convertor, I beleive that the stereo case is a chssis ground style of set up.

Would this present a problem if feeding a 12+ and a 12- to it if operating on a pure 24V truck? The metal frame of the deck would come into contact with the live chassis points, and I have a totally 24V truck.

Wasnt a problem on mine or anyone elses set ups I dont think this would be a problem as ground would need a hot relative to it to create a circuit.

[Tim-HJ61]

As long as you use the same negative/earth as the 24v system, then it won't be a problem.

The only time this would be a problem is if you take your +12 and -12v off the high battery - then applying this voltage to the radio that was earthed to the radio and vehicle body/chassis would mean the radio would be fed 24v - a very bad thing I would imagine. Bad smell, sparks, sad and forlorn looks....

Do like most do, and take the +12v off the low battery and the - goes to the chassis/body.

Tim