Thoughts on this possibility?

[Island Moose]

Not to go on and on about this, but I have little else consuming me...

My brother-in-law, who was once a Dodge mechanic, tells me that even though injectors can be rebuilt and tested, the piston of the nozzle can be the wrong size for the "bore" and let too much fuel into a cylinder or all cylinders. In other words, the wrong nozzles were used to rebuild mine, causing the problem I'm having...does this sound like a possibility? Wayne at Northshore Toyota said almost the exact same thing...that rebuilt injectors still might not work properly...

It's more now what I want to look at first, injectors or timing. I suppose I will eventually have both diagnosed, just looking for a strategy.

[landcrusiergod1]

I work on diesel engines in the AF - So First a word about rebuilt injectors - U might get one good and one bad, All depends on work was working that day. Second DO NOT TOUCH THE Tips of the injectors, They will clog and drip fuel instead of spraying fuel in a mist. ( guessing u might have done this) They are easy enough to bench check at a local diesel shop - or return them to the manufacture for newer rebuilt ones. -- Timing if you didn't mess with orginal timing it should be fine. -- The fuel pressure might be off ( too high or too low) but thats just a gauge inline to read and see what pressure u have. Too low pressure and fuel drips out ( or doesn't mist ) And doesn't combust, too high and it will dump more fuel that needed. Hope this helps RAy

[PVVH]

Moose
I feel for you. I've been watching your saga and hoping that you have found the answer every time I log on. I have to say though that your trials are freaking me out a bit. I want to import a Cruiser when I come back to Canada. I think I have found someone here who will take me to the auction (here in Japan) and do all the paperwork. I'm wondering what your feelings are now on owning an imported Cruiser. Especially when you can't just stroll into Toyota to get a problem fixed when a real head scratcher arises. Let me know your thoughts. Paul

[crushers]

I am not Moose but:
there is enough help on the list(s) that almost every problem can be fixed. Moose's problem will turn out to be frustrating but an easy fix. if I thought that there could be BIG problems of getting the imports fixed then I would not be importing them to begin with.
the only real downside to the RHD imports is the RHD specific parts and the engines that we don't have here. the nice thing is we can get almost everything "in time" from either Australia or Japan. also the trucks are very strong so the need to buy parts are limited. good routine maintenance is important so things do not go wrong in the first place. Don't fix it if it isn't broken, is a good motto.
what are you bringing back with you?
cheers

[beanz2]

Originally Posted by moose_sv1000s

It's more now what I want to look at first, injectors or timing. I suppose I will eventually have both diagnosed, just looking for a strategy.

Why not do both? Like Ray said, take the rebuilt injector to a shop, maybe a different one and see if they can bench test it. My local shop will do it for free. Maybe the shops near you will too. Timing is a little more complicated, but you can buy or borrow those clip on inductive diesel timers that allows you to use a regular gas engine timing light. It is rare that timing would be off unless the fuel pump has been rebuilt or otherwise removed.

Dave

[Island Moose]

I have no regrets buying the import, all vehicles have troubles, especially when you buy 2nd hand. As Wayne says, it will turn out to be something very small. The frustrating bit is not having a manual, which someday may be resolved if we can find some on backorder.

If I had a choice between this particular fuel pump and the much more common inline unit, I would pick the inline. Being the only guy with this set-up is frustrating, everyone wants you to rotate the housing to time it, which isn't the procedure for a Bosch.

Rust free, unique, low mileage, affordable...JDM's are a God-send. If I had the money, I'd bring more in and set-up a bio-diesel station on the Island.

[Radd Cruisers]

This problem you are having is something I have seen on cummins rebuilt injectors. Although Ziggy and Loydd are very fuel and turbo system guys they lack one tool.

The ability to flow test along with pressure release test is very important, they lack the flow test equipment.


Rob

[Island Moose]

Originally Posted by Radd Cruisers

This problem you are having is something I have seen on cummins rebuilt injectors. Although Ziggy and Loydd are very fuel and turbo system guys they lack one tool.

The ability to flow test along with pressure release test is very important, they lack the flow test equipment.


Rob

Interesting...suppose I find and outfit with a flow bench...what are the target settings?

[Radd Cruisers]

I thought they had all the specs on most stuff like engine rebuild companies who pay a fee for online instant specs?

Not sure who in Vancouver whould have a flow bench?

[Island Moose]

I've now heard that my injector opening pressures (1750psi) are way low for the rotary pump version of the 3B. Supposed to be 2800-2900 psi. If I choose to believe it, that's a sure cause of my troubles and an easy fix. Hard as hell waiting for that Euro- manual to show up.

[Greg_B]

IDI B and 3B nozzles new are: 1,636-1,778 psi, and used are 1,493-1,778 psi.

DI nozzles for the 11B-13B and 13BT new are: 2,845-2,987 psi, and used are 2,560-2,987 psi. (though Max Ellery disagrees with the 13BT figures in the OEM manual).

You are IDI, and may be the same as the 3B inline pump ones...but...don't know for sure.

gb

[Greg_B]

Originally Posted by moose_sv1000s

Being the only guy with this set-up is frustrating, everyone wants you to rotate the housing to time it, which isn't the procedure for a Bosch.

Moose, it is the procedure for the Toyota pumps, as explained in the OEM engine manual for the 3B in section EM-23. The Max Ellery Diesel 4&6 cyl manual explains near the beginning under the "Maintenance and Tune-up L, 2L and 2LT" (all rotory) how to Inspect and Adjust the Injection Timing, which includes rotation the injection pump housing to advance or retard depending on what the "plunger stroke measuring tool" and "dial indicator" tell you. Is your rotory 3B pump the same? Perhaps, and likely...but again...don't know for sure.

You choice is to mark and adjust (playing to see what happens) as Peter suggests, or wait for the factory manual.

gb

[PVVH]

So, I guess the best advice is to get a manual as soon as you get your truck. And to make sure that you can get an english manual for whatever model you get. I hope you get your manual soon and can solve your problem. Keep us posted.
Wayne, I'm looking at bringing back an HJ61 or if I'm lucky an HDJ80. I found an exporter in Osaka who will take you to the auction and help you export what you buy. I just have to hire a broker in B.C. or figure out the paper work myself for customs. Big plans, but I haven't put them in action quite yet!

[ridgerunner]

Originally Posted by moose_sv1000s

Being the only guy with this set-up is frustrating, everyone wants you to rotate the housing to time it, which isn't the procedure for a Bosch.

You do rotate a Bosch VE.

Timing a Bosch VE pump is relatively simple, though it requires some specialty parts.

Per a 6AT,

You'll need a dial indicator, and a bolt to hold it in the back of the pump. I had a friend make a 6? or 8? mm bolt that the dial indicator slipped into, and a small screw perpendicular to the indicator held it in place. Once the pump is set at piston #1, you bascially set the indicator to zero, and following the manual for your engine, rock the pump and engine back and forth to when you get the right setting at 15? degrees btdc. I haven't done it in a while, but the hardest part was putting the 6 fuel lines back on.

Easy. Just need specs!