[amaurer]

Originally Posted by Dougal

So instead of assemblies, everything is a multi-body part?
That method certainly has it's uses, but it makes some things really difficult.

For some things, sure.

In this case, for example, you might make a model of the block and the studs, and then a model of the exhaust flange, and then an assembly to mate the two and ensure they fit.

I, however, would probably just make a sketch or a feature in my part with the block/stud arrangement, then make another feature with the flange arrangement, constrained against the features on my stud/block sketch. Maybe another sketch with the screw head diameter to ensure there is clearance there too. It works for me.

[cruisedeisel]

Yeah! my square tube manifold works awesome, almost 10,000kms on the turbo so far, i didn't use stainless but there ain't no cracks. the tubing was alot thicker. more time to cool down with the head. but flows awesome.

looks pretty f-ing scookum.

[RufusTheDufus]

I picked up a couple of M8 cap screws today at the local hardware store. $.97 each for these things and they only had 4 of them. The tubing fits perfectly between the heads. No modifications necessary. I think a weld bead might interfere. I'll snap some photos when I get the holes drilled and the stubs cut.

[BinaryDude]

any gnus?

[RufusTheDufus]

No gnus is good gnus.

I've been away for a bit up at camp for my wife's Bday. Not much time spent on the Cruisers in the past week. I've been practicing with the TIG welder a bit here and there and planning the radiator move to make room for the intercooler.

My next step on the manifold is to make up a jig that I can bolt the flanges to for welding the whole thing up. I don't want to worry about warping while welding it.

[RufusTheDufus]

Here's a little eye candy. Not much to talk about specific to the turbo.

Pulled the bib off to work on moving the radiator back a couple inches to make room for an intercooler. There's a bunch of rust to deal with as well so I'm going to pull the fenders and attend to the rust prior to getting it all back together.



Here's a view of the flange and the stub pipe on the head. It gives you an idea of what it looks like.


Just the flange.



Practicing on some scrap stainless with the new TIG and mild steel rod. I obviously need a lot more practice. I think a 1/16" ceriated tungsten for the torch will provide better control than the 3/32" tungsten I used for most of these test passes.



Here's what I'm using for an turbo oil return fitting on the oil pan. The big nut gets welded to the pan.




I hope to work on the head template next week when I get back from a trip to Ohio for a family reunion.

[RufusTheDufus]

Finally getting around to putting some time in on the Cruiser projects again. I spent some time tonight looking at fitment issues and started planning the welding sequence.

Tomorrow I plan to tack weld the stubs to the flanges. When that's done I can work on fitting the long log part of the manifold to the stubs. There's too much of a gap on the rounded edges of the 2" tube. I'd like less of a gap prior to welding if possible.






I spent some time working on a welding jig so I could bolt the flanges to it for welding. The idea is to keep the flanges stationary to avoid warping. I gave up on the jig. It's difficult to get 12 holes drilled in the exact correct location. I'm just going to use the old head as a welding jig. That will work just as well or possibly better.

[RufusTheDufus]

I forgot to mention that Iron Giant had some Remflex gaskets made for the Toyota H diesel head. These will help alleviate any leaks due to warping. They are about 3x thicker than the stock exhaust gaskets.

[RufusTheDufus]

It's moving along nicely. I wish I was better with the TIG welder. It's a little ugly but the welds have good penetration.

I had to cut an angle at the ends of the log to provide clearance at the firewall and alternator.

I still have a couple more hours of welding left before I fit the turbo mounting flange. Unfortunately my argon tank only has about 30 minutes left in it.

[RufusTheDufus]

Some more progress today. I haven't finished the manifold yet. Ran out of argon in the bottle and still waiting on some flat 316L to cap the ends of the log.

With all the heat and welds on the stub side of the manifold I've developed about .125" of warp in the center of the manifold. I did 90% of the welding with the manifold bolted tightly to the head and the other 10% with it bolted to some 1/2" plate steel. And it still warped. I guess that's to be expected over two feet of tubing. I took it to my friend with the fabrication shop today and he said we can preheat it in his furnace and throw it on the press while it's hot to take the bend out of it.

I have plenty of room for the turbo and exhaust. I'm going to run the compressor output under the alternator to the intercooler up front. It looks like routing the intercooler plumbing should be fairly straightforward.

I hope to get my argon bottle refilled by the end of the week so I can hopefully finish the manifold and start working on getting this thing running again.






And the part number of the $150 Chinese T3 clone:

[BinaryDude]

are you going to weld the turbo on, or weld a t3 flange to bolt to?

I wish Oswald had not just torn up something in the drive train... i would have you make me the same setup...

[RufusTheDufus]

I have a stainless T3 flange.

[dingbatt]

Nice work mate, looking good!

[RufusTheDufus]

Been real busy with work stuff lately. Finally had a chance to do some welding and fitting. I'm a little bummed with the quality of my welds. I'm finally figuring out the TIG unit now that I'm done with the hard stuff. (I am going to TIG up a 2.5" stainless exhaust which will be fun.)

I also spent some time cleaning up the frame and an giving it the Rust Bullet treatment.

Next I'll re-clock the turbo center section and work on the oil lines.

[herbs]

Any luck with those oil filter adaptors?

[RufusTheDufus]

Not yet.

[RufusTheDufus]

I've been busy with real life distractions for quite a while. It's getting cold up this way so I made some room in the garage for the Troopy and will be getting to work on it a bunch more soon.

Here's a few photos of the intercooler setup.











I've also spent a little time thinking about how I'm going to add an oil cooler to the H. I've settled on modifying a stock filter mount to handle a common sandwich adapter. This way I'll get rid of the PITA stock canister I can switch to a common PH8A compatible oil filter. I'll be able to use the same filters on my 3B and the H. (BTW, I'll have a batch of stock H oil filters to sell soon.)

I posted photos of the oil filter adapter idea in this thread.

[OinkOinker]

Ill be watching...

[rchalmers3]

C'mon and light that thing! I wanna hear it run, hear the turbo spool, see it boost and smell the rubber burn.....

Welcome back and thanks for sharing.

Rick

[RufusTheDufus]

Yeah, me too. Life has just been getting in the way lately. It's hard to free up any Cruiser time. I'll fire it up soon and post a video.

I've gotten mentally derailed on the HJ45 recently. I've been working on planning the wiring for installing a set of Cadillac CTS heated seats. I want the electric seat motors to work in addition to the seat heaters.

[RufusTheDufus]

It's alive. (YouTube video link)

I started it up for the first time today. It was nice to hear it run after being out of commission for so long.

Before putting the glow plugs back in it I disconnected the EDIC actuator arm and put a bungee cord on the injection pump to keep it in the "off" position. Then I cranked the engine in five second intervals (5 on, 5 off) until I showed oil pressure on the mechanical gauge.

After I was sure I had oil pressure I put the glow plugs in it, hooked the EDIC up and started cranking. (I had previously bled the fuel filter and injection pump.) I was very surprised how long it took for the injection lines to pressurize to the point that the engine would fire. It took about two minutes of cranking time in brief intervals so I didn't overheat the starter.

When it finally fired up the smoke was insane. It smoked like a coal-fired locomotive until I bled the air from each injection line. After doing that it cleared right up and idled nicely.

So far no leaks and no problems other than a slightly loose v-band clamp on the turbo downpipe. I don't want to run it too long without a good load on it so the piston rings can seat properly. (That's why I'm revving it up so much in the video.)

There's still a lot of little stuff to do before I can get it on the road. I'm waiting on the 3/4" 16tpi tap to arrive so I can finish my oil cooler adapter. Hopefully it arrives soon. When that's done I'll get the whole front end back together. In the mean time I'll get all of the gauges installed and work on mounting and wiring the heated Cadillac CTS seats.

[rchalmers3]

ATA-WAY-BOYEEEE!

Rick

[RufusTheDufus]

I installed the boost gauge and pyrometer today and took it for a spin down our dirt road to the unmaintained logging roads. What an amazing difference in power a turbo and good compression makes.

I haven't adjusted the fuel yet to match the turbo. I'm going to wait a little while to give the rings a little longer to break in. At the moment the turbo only hits a max of 5 psi @ 850 degrees F (pre-turbo). It's getting colder outside (42 degrees F) so I assume the intercooler must be helping a bit with the low exhaust temps.

I did forget to tighten the lug nuts on one of the rear wheels. Thankfully I caught it before the wheel fell off. Completely trashed a brand new stock steel rim. It's not even usable as spare. I get so frustrated when I do stupid crap like this.

I'm really looking forward to installing the 5 speed now. It should cruise down the road nicely running on 33s. Time to start reading through all those threads.

I've got another set of stainless flanges I won't need if you're looking to do your own manifold for the H. You can have six them for $30+ shipping. If you would rather do steel I can give you the contact info for the laser cutting service in Portland, OR that made them for me and you can order a set directly from them. I'm quite happy with this manifold and turbo setup. Hopefully I'm still happy with it six months down the road.

[prado t]

Sweet, I am happy that she is back on track. Very nice exhaust manifold. How has it been doing during the HEAT CYCLES?

[RufusTheDufus]

It's been cold here and I'm driving around without a hood or fender aprons so it's not a real world test for heat under the hood. I'm also only driving for 25 to 45 minutes at a shot.

I haven't turned the fuel up yet either. I haven't gotten past 850 F on the pyrometer, pre-turbo so that's not much of a heat cycle test either.

I'm waiting for a tap to arrive so I can finish my oil filter adapter project. When that's done I'll button everything back up and get her on the road for some sustained highway driving and tune the fuel screw. I don't seem much need to turn it up though if the thing can cruise comfortably at 65 MPH. I don't need to go faster than that.

Thus far I have only been testing on the logging roads and our dirt road here at the house. I can hit 50 MPH for brief periods but it's not really a good idea to drive that fast. The frost is starting to setup in the road so it alternates between mud and firm ground in the sunny/shady spots.

I am liking the Cadillac CTS seat. It sits up a little higher than the stock seat giving a much better view out over the front of the truck.

I'm starting to plan the 5 speed swap now. I'm going do some rust repairs under the cab so I might as well pull the tranny at the same time. A friend can do the driveshaft work for me. The rest should be pretty straightforward.

[RufusTheDufus]

The stock 45 air cleaner wouldn't fit with the turbo over there so I flippedit to the other side of the engine. I didn't even have to modify the air cleaner assembly. Just a 2" spacer under one side and drilled a few holes in the fender. It almost looks like it belongs there.