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07-03-09, 04:42 PM
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#31 (permalink)
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Site Addict
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Being stalked by 2 hillbillies
Posts: 2,034
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tim-HJ61
I run up to 600°C - 1100°F before chickening out but am intrigued by Dougal's comment of their being a temperature not to exceed. What is it?? I'd be highly anxious if I saw 750°C on the gauge. That'd freak me!
This is on a 12H-T.
Tim
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750C is the absolute upper limit for sane people. Put whatever safety factor on that you like.
750C is 1382F.
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VOODOO Engineering: Doing it first time with one clay doll, not four times with two.
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07-03-09, 05:10 PM
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#32 (permalink)
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Turbo Diesel Lover
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Panamá
Posts: 11,426
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dougal
750C is the absolute upper limit for sane people. Put whatever safety factor on that you like.
750C is 1382F.
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how much time you will keep this temp in any IDI engine .. ?
I'm under the idea ( maybe from here  ) all over 1250°F will kill my engine ..
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crushers
if you are achieveing the max boost then it isn't the boost that is going to kill your engine... it is your right foot.
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07-03-09, 05:19 PM
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#33 (permalink)
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250+ Club
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Asturias(Spain)-London(England)
Posts: 362
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I'm useless as a mechanic, so as long as I have to take it to a garage to install the pyrometer and I'm spending too much in my 80 and the budget is really tight now, let me ask you some questions:
1-Can any regular mechanic do a safe and clean pre-turbo pyrometerer installation or should a take it to a specialist?. I found a mechanic that's been told to be very good, he setup competition vehicles and he knows 80's, but he charges three times as much than the regular mechanic.
2-You said that the post turbo installation is cheaper. How many hours of labour do you think it takes to do a pre turbo and a post turbo installation?
Thank you.
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07-03-09, 06:54 PM
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#34 (permalink)
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Site Addict
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Being stalked by 2 hillbillies
Posts: 2,034
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tapage
how much time you will keep this temp in any IDI engine .. ?
I'm under the idea ( maybe from here  ) all over 1250°F will kill my engine ..
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I don't own any IDI engines, for that reason and others.
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VOODOO Engineering: Doing it first time with one clay doll, not four times with two.
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07-04-09, 04:14 AM
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#35 (permalink)
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Forum Regular
Join Date: May 2009
Location: australia
Posts: 46
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i put probe post turbo and measured egt's in stock 12ht and then added exhaust and boost and fuel to get correlation of stock egt's to modified egt's to get a good safe tune in engine
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07-04-09, 07:51 AM
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#36 (permalink)
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Forum Lifer
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Tamarindo, Costa Rica
Posts: 2,840
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post-turbo shouldn't take any time at all.... even if you are a crap mechanic, all you have to do is drill a single hole in the exhaust pipe, then use the clamp included w/ the pyrometer to clamp the thing in. 15 minutes?
then some electrical wires. maybe give an hour to do it "nicely".
It is easier than installing an alarm or stereo.
__________________
91 fj80 w/ 93 1HD-T. OME 850/860 w/ 1" front spacer, LEDs, HIRs, Geolander MT's 33x12.50r15, Tuffy center, ARB rear locker (in progress), in garage: lightforce lights, full rack, superwinch X9, maggiolina tent, hella horns.
ask me about Costa Rican Realty
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07-04-09, 11:47 AM
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#37 (permalink)
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250+ Club
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Asturias(Spain)-London(England)
Posts: 362
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sandcruiser
post-turbo shouldn't take any time at all.... even if you are a **** mechanic, all you have to do is drill a single hole in the exhaust pipe, then use the clamp included w/ the pyrometer to clamp the thing in. 15 minutes?
then some electrical wires. maybe give an hour to do it "nicely".
It is easier than installing an alarm or stereo.
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Thank you, sandcruiser.
And what about pre-turbo?, how much time would it take to a regular mechanic to do it nicely and safely?
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07-04-09, 04:00 PM
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#38 (permalink)
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Site Addict
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Being stalked by 2 hillbillies
Posts: 2,034
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Quote:
Originally Posted by plumma
i put probe post turbo and measured egt's in stock 12ht and then added exhaust and boost and fuel to get correlation of stock egt's to modified egt's to get a good safe tune in engine 
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As soon as you increase boost or fuel, your correlation to the original EGT's are lost.
__________________
VOODOO Engineering: Doing it first time with one clay doll, not four times with two.
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07-05-09, 05:12 PM
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#39 (permalink)
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Forum Lifer
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Tamarindo, Costa Rica
Posts: 2,840
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pre turbo, it'll take more time, but I don't have a good estimate of what it "should" take.
it took me all day, but a part of that was learning how to use a tap
__________________
91 fj80 w/ 93 1HD-T. OME 850/860 w/ 1" front spacer, LEDs, HIRs, Geolander MT's 33x12.50r15, Tuffy center, ARB rear locker (in progress), in garage: lightforce lights, full rack, superwinch X9, maggiolina tent, hella horns.
ask me about Costa Rican Realty
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07-05-09, 05:59 PM
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#40 (permalink)
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250+ Club
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Asturias(Spain)-London(England)
Posts: 362
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Thank you Sandcruiser.
I hope it doesn't take that long to my mechanic
Anyway, as you are in Costa Rica, you may be able to tell me, what's the exact translation to spanish of Tap, in this context?
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07-06-09, 07:59 AM
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#41 (permalink)
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Forum Lifer
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Tamarindo, Costa Rica
Posts: 2,840
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not really sure about "Tap"... finding a tap set here was difficult. "un macho para hacer roscas" seemed to get the message across, but that may vary from CR to Spain. "broca para cortar roscas" also seems to get some understanding on the faces of the hardware store guys.
"cortar roscas" would be the closest verb for "to tap". As far as I can tell.
__________________
91 fj80 w/ 93 1HD-T. OME 850/860 w/ 1" front spacer, LEDs, HIRs, Geolander MT's 33x12.50r15, Tuffy center, ARB rear locker (in progress), in garage: lightforce lights, full rack, superwinch X9, maggiolina tent, hella horns.
ask me about Costa Rican Realty
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07-06-09, 12:16 PM
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#42 (permalink)
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Turbo Diesel Lover
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Panamá
Posts: 11,426
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dougal
I don't own any IDI engines, for that reason and others.
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in my field experience, it looks mi DI engine can raise much more easy the EGT compared to my IDI engine .. both boosting the same and both with plenty of diesel available at the IP ..
also .. the IDI looks will raise the water engine temp before you have real high EGT problem ..
__________________
HJ-60 2H-T Intercooled Tencha
HDJ-80 1HD-T not stock at all ! Marilu
FZJ-80 1FZ-FE ready to Play ( wife rig ! )
Join us at our local Panamá Off Road Forum
Quote:
Originally Posted by crushers
if you are achieveing the max boost then it isn't the boost that is going to kill your engine... it is your right foot.
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07-06-09, 02:48 PM
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#43 (permalink)
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Site Addict
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Being stalked by 2 hillbillies
Posts: 2,034
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tapage
in my field experience, it looks mi DI engine can raise much more easy the EGT compared to my IDI engine .. both boosting the same and both with plenty of diesel available at the IP ..
also .. the IDI looks will raise the water engine temp before you have real high EGT problem ..
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Yes, the IDI engines lose more heat into the cooling system through the head and precups. Because the Di combustion chambers have less surface area the heat stays in the gas better.
__________________
VOODOO Engineering: Doing it first time with one clay doll, not four times with two.
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