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Old 06-16-09, 02:35 PM   #31 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by lshobie View Post
Yes I have read the post over quickly, my understanding is that glazing is what happens during improper break in procedures, if not properly broken in you will end up with glazed walls and oil consumption.

When I idle my truck I always idle high and so do guys up north - a low idle is not good and won't keep the engine warm. I also idle the fire trucks at high idle but that is for the alternator and lights as you mentioned.

Go to just about any truck stop and you will see truck idling for hours over night - nothing new there.

Maybe we should follow the mine truck method of break in, here it is:

From the first time you start the truck put it in 4 low and put the pedal to the floor and hold it there until the shift is over, then the next guy takes it and does the same thing. Do this for 10,000 hours and then rebuild. Or, in my engines case, 4200 hours of combined max RPM and long periods of idling, 24 hours a day 5-7 days a week. Change oil regularly.

I just checked my compression again about 30 minutes ago, all 6 cylinders are 600-620psi each. Not bad for idling all it's life

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Those engines are on a high idle. When we say idling is bad for the engine we mean the lowest RPM the engine will run is bad for long periods of time. Engines on high idle can idle for very long periods of time.


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Old 06-16-09, 02:39 PM   #32 (permalink)
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Idle, versus low idle, versus high idle. If we are all taking about "high idle" then we are all on the same page I think.

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Old 06-16-09, 02:54 PM   #33 (permalink)
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Yes I would suspect so. High idle would probably be 800-1200rpm on a 1HZ. Factory idle is 600rpm. I suspect I idle mine at about 800-1000 depending on what I am doing, ie winching, cooling down, keeping warm in winter etc etc.

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Old 06-16-09, 04:14 PM   #34 (permalink)
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Louis, lets take the new 70 out with some bigger tires and see if we can get the " glaze " out LOL ! I think it needs a work out...

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Old 06-16-09, 04:19 PM   #35 (permalink)
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I think you are right, I have to replace the fan clutch - when that is done it will get the drive of its life

Did you notice the white smoke when I was at the lights the other day?? I fixed that.

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Old 06-17-09, 08:58 AM   #36 (permalink)
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the only time i notice smoke is when i turn the key, then there is a small black poof of smoke, going down the highway there seems to be no smoke not even when i kick down on the auto tranny.

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Old 06-17-09, 09:38 AM   #37 (permalink)
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the only time i notice smoke is when i turn the key, then there is a small black poof of smoke, going down the highway there seems to be no smoke not even when i kick down on the auto tranny.
If it's set-up right, a turbo usually means no (black) smoke regardless of how heavy your right foot is. NA, I can always make smoke, especially when people are tailgating me.

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Old 07-10-09, 05:29 AM   #38 (permalink)
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I haven't had a problem with my old truck idling for long periods.
I use a air compressor mounted to the engine for long periods for work. It can sometimes run all day at idle in the Australian outback.

The old truck has done 490k with out any major work. It burns less oil than the newer rigs.

I use it for heavy towing most days of the week.
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Old 07-10-09, 11:44 AM   #39 (permalink)
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I use it for heavy towing most days of the week.
That would help prevent any glazing buildup from low idling.

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Old 07-16-09, 06:45 PM   #40 (permalink)
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Louis, lets take the new 70 out with some bigger tires and see if we can get the " glaze " out LOL ! I think it needs a work out...
I have seen many vehicles (petrol & diesel) that have been driven by the 'old boygirl' that have not seen anything more than 2500-3000 rpm during years of ownership. Along comes the new owner and gives it a good thrashing 'just to loosen it up' only to find that a couple of thousand miles down the road and the engine starts to burn oil and even start running rough.

Think of the wear ridge at the top of the bore where the top ring stops, after many thousands of miles this ridge can be quite pronounced, so when the new owner starts using high revs the rotating mass actually stretches and can cause the top ring to hit this ridge and chip of the moly coating, sometimes scoring the bore or even breaking the ring, a worse case scenario I have seen was the top ring crushing the upper ring land of the second ring preventing any movement/expansion and eventually leaving the engine down on power and running as rough as a bears a*se.

If you have such a motor you should build the rev higher over quite a few thousand miles to allow the wear ridge to be softened.

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Old 11-11-09, 10:54 PM   #41 (permalink)
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I have an 82 BJ42 with 196km and runs like a champ, only notice white smoke at startup (smells like diesel fuel). However, when I warm the glow plugs twice, I don't get the smoke. Anyone have a reason why?

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Old 11-12-09, 11:36 AM   #42 (permalink)
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I have an 82 BJ42 with 196km and runs like a champ, only notice white smoke at startup (smells like diesel fuel). However, when I warm the glow plugs twice, I don't get the smoke. Anyone have a reason why?
If you are glowing twice, you have a hotter combustion chamber and therefore more complete combustion. The white smoke is unburnt diesel. If your glow system is working right, you shouldn't need to glow twice.

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Old 11-17-09, 08:37 AM   #43 (permalink)
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I read somewhere that another reason for not idling is that the turbo seals need pressure to seal correctly, and they don't get this at idle, so you get some oil seepage.

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Old 11-24-09, 02:36 AM   #44 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Greg_B View Post
White smoke:

White smoke is caused by raw, un-burnt fuel passing into the exhaust stream. Common causes include:
· Incorrect fuel injection timing
· Defective fuel injectors
· Low cylinder compression
Is air in the injection system a cause for white smoke at startup too?

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