What's an H worth?

[Mad Jack]

Originally Posted by RufusTheDufus

I do appreciate all of the feedback. I thought the H/2H engines get 16 - 20 MPG.

I have an h in my troopie..I get in the mids 20's depending on how hard and where I'm driving. I do think a 4cyl would get less as the weight and drivetrain will slow it down. Just my 2 cents. Grats on the troopie by the way...its too fun!


Pics, pics!!!!

[TOBASH]

Seems to me that for safety sake, an H engine will get ya onto the highway more effectively. My 2b stresses me out. Custom Mitsu 13 turbo with 8-10PSI is in my future. I agree w/ MadJAck in that a 4 cylinder in such a heavy truck needs to be run at all times closer to redline, making it less fuel efficient. Sometimes larger engines with lower RPM's are safer and more effective and more fuel efficient.

Might I suggest doing a custom turbo on the H, and saving some money in that manner? Then re-assess your options in 6 months. I would kill for a 2h in my truck.

I was pissed about some rust on my BJ-44, but now that I see your rear ambulance door hinge, perhaps I should shut up and be happy.

You have an AWESOME truck. I would restore it but not change a blessed thing. Just my humble 0.02. Hope I am not offending.

P.S. did your truck come in on the recent Wallenius Wilhelmsen cargo ship Texas. If so, we were bunk buddies, (well our cars were anyways).

Best,

T

[RufusTheDufus]

Yep, it was on the Texas. The trucker that picked up my Troopy said there was another 45 sitting right next to it on the docks.

[crushers]

what a waste of a troopie when a 44 would have worked perfect

we are in the process of designing a full fiberglass 44/46 with the rear axle relocated back similar to that idea. if it progress passes paper then it will be running the 1HZTI with a H55F, 2.48 t/case and 3.7 gearing on 34" boots.
the ride should be greatly improved over the 40 without the overhang of the 45 troopie... we will see.

Originally Posted by matt.mcinnes

It's been chopped bobbed cut weld all in the good name of the magazine so Roothy can drink beer and write about it

[RufusTheDufus]

Originally Posted by roscoFJ73

If it has good compression I would ask around $2k for a complete turn key engine ,fan to flywheel,inc pump.
If you test the compression and display the figures it will move much faster

I finally got around to putting a compression tester on it today. Bad news for me. All cylinders are above 400psi except for #4. #4 is at 200 - 219 after a three rounds of testing. I'm really surprised the engine runs as smooth as it does with one cylinder essentially dead.

I did put a little oil in #4 to see if the compression would spike up indicating bad rings but there was no difference. Makes me think it's valves, head gasket or a cracked head. It does not run hot or appear to have any exhaust leakage into the cooling system. It smokes a little at start up, looks like blue smoke and will sometimes puff a little blue smoke at idle. I haven't put enough miles on it yet to know if it uses any oil.

I'm going to adjust the valves over the weekend to see if that changes things at all. Maybe I'll just put the leakdown tester on it too while I'm at it.

[crushers]

you have 3 at 400 and one at 200-219...
retest one of the others to comfirm the tester isn't at fault.
i had one engine that i suspected was in great shape and the same happened to me, i retested one of the first cylinders and found the tester crapped out...just a suggestion

[RufusTheDufus]

I have 5 at 400+. I ran through all six in series. Then went back and retested 4, then 3, then 5 and then 4 again. I wanted to verify that 3 and 5 didn't appear to have problems related to 4.

I thought that my tester may have crapped out because the engine fired once on the cylinder being tested!. It appears to be OK though because it's still within 5 - 10 psi of the results previously taken. I'd expect it to go down a little bit because it took me so long to do all of the testing. The engine had a chance to partially cool.

I'm going to torque the head and adjust the valves tomorrow. It looks like the H has a valve cover gasket and not a o-ring like the 3B. I hope I don't ruin the gasket taking the cover off.

[Henry James the 47th]

I wanted to comment on the fuel economy issue - I just drove my HJ47 (2-seater, not a troopie) across North America, with at least a ton loaded on the back. After adding up my receipts and using Mapquest to check the actual mileage covered, the truck actually did 17.5mpg. I think that's pretty good!

My tires are slightly larger than stock (235-85-R16), so my speedo and odometer don't read perfectly accurately. I am guessing that unloaded the truck should be getting 24~26mpg.

I would sell your H engine, especially after your compression test results. Parts are getting hard to come by for those early engines. It's not much better for the 2H, but it is better.

I would also give strong consideration to swapping a 12HT into place, as it would be a lot simpler swap than going to the B series of engine. Well, I am not totally sure about that, as I haven't seen the H engine up close in detail, but it would certainly be the case if swapping between 2H and 12H-T.

I'm thinking about the complexities involved when moving between H and B series engines, since they are mirror-image reversed to one another. Exhaust and air cleaner would need to be moved to opposite sides, as might the battery tray mount. Engine mounts of course. And then there is the vac reservoir, which Toyota places on the opposite side to where the exhaust runs. The wiring will need re-configuring. The !3B-T also uses Superglow (different relays) and glow screens (no glow plugs, and you will need the glow timer), so there's another significant difference. It would not be a Sunday afternooin job anyhow, and i'm sure you realize that. I hope you post up a build thread when you go ahead with the swap, whatever you may choose to for a replacement engine.

[RufusTheDufus]

My choice of engine for the swap is easy because I already own them. I don't mind doing the work to swap stuff around from the H to the 13BT. I think it will be fun. A friend here locally has a CNC plasma cutter so I can design just about anything I'll need from sheet or plate steel stock. (engine mounts, battery trays, etc.)

First I'm going to try to tackle this compression problem. The engine runs really well despite low compression on that one cylinder. It's most likely valve related. I'll find out tomorrow when I put the leakdown tester on it. I didn't get a chance today since we took a 275 mile motorcycle ride through parts of Maine, New Hampshire and Quebec and my ass is sore.

If I ever hope to recover some of the money I've "invested" in Cruisers thru the sale of this engine I have to make sure it's running properly. If I can get the H running right I may just fab up a turbo exhaust manifold for it and leave it in there. I have an IHI RHB6 turbo I can throw on it.

[RufusTheDufus]

I decided to adjust the valves tonight. I didn't get a chance to recheck the compression. I don't think I'm going to though. This engine needs serious work. I wouldn't sell it other than for parts.

I thought that there was a serious exhaust leak just in front of the muffler. Turns out that the crankcase vent tube was connected to a hose that ran down the frame for a few feet ending near the muffler. When I removed the hose from the vent tube it was like uncorking the exhaust. I think there's more smoke coming from the vent tube than the exhaust pipe. I think it's a sign that something is seriously wrong.

[crushers]

i respect an honest man...

[patches84]

Bear in mind that Roscofj73 says $2000, but that is in Australia- where the prices of most things would make the average American faint (my registration alone costs nearly $1000 per year for a 1984 FJ40 LX). I would think that you are looking at closer to $500 in the US if it runs perfectly.

I sold my 2H back in 2000 for $3000, and it had been re-built, had a stainless steel head, performance injectors and an ARB turbo-charger on it. I also had a factory 60 series power steering pump on it. It took me nearly 3 months to even find a buyer for it.

I think that a 13Bt will work fine, because you are at sea level. Roothie drove his rig down to South Australia (he lives in QLD), and said (in the magazine article- I've never met him) that the power was just fine, except in the hills of the Voctorian Alps- where the altitude sapped alot of power from it.

When I lived in Panama, I had a friend with a BJ42 with a 13Bt in it. The power in that was great! I don't know what fuel economy was, but when we drove to Isla Grande one weekend, he used a lot less diesel than I did in my HJ75 pickup.

I love the Vortec in my troopie, but I would prefer a 1HD-T if I'd had my druthers. I had to put a US-spec engine in mine, because it was not 25 years old when I brought it in, and I could not get the 2H to pass the federal smog cops to save my life.

My troopie, with 3:73 gears, H55F, 33X10.50X15 BFG A/T tyres gets 19 MPG on the freeway from Santa Fe to Boulder at 70 MPH. I can get 22 MPG if I keep it to 60-65, and 16 MPG at 85 (and I can stir up dust with the fuel guage when I drive it at 90 MPH). I do love the power of my Vortec, and I would not trade it now. The fuel economy is fine, and when you consider that diesel costs another 20% or so, my Vortec is probably cheaper to run than a 12HT would be.

The best I ever got out of my 2H turbo was 24 MPG at 60 MPH. If I really used it, and drove at 75 MPH (which was about the fastest it would go without over-temping the exhaust), my fuel economy was closer to 17 MPG. I think the best thing I did for fuel economy was not the turbo, but the 3:73 gears. I have a friend in Utah with a 12Ht in a troopie, and he swears he gets 25-30 MPG. I really think that any direct injected diesel will return decent fuel economy. The indirect injected H and 2H is just old technology-with or without a turbo.

Cheers,

Josh

[1tontoy]

I sold an H out of my troopy for $100USD

[joshoisasleep]

Originally Posted by patches84

Bear in mind that Roscofj73 says $2000, but that is in Australia- where the prices of most things would make the average American faint (my registration alone costs nearly $1000 per year for a 1984 FJ40 LX). I would think that you are looking at closer to $500 in the US if it runs perfectly.

I dunno man... Australia's full of Toyota diesels and in the US there are only what's been imported. I wouldn't be THAT pessimistic about it, there's still really low supply, yet SOME demand.

Originally Posted by patches84

I think that a 13Bt will work fine, because you are at sea level.

I bet a 13bt would pwn a NA H at altitude. Gassers struggle at altitudes where I ride smooth with my turbo...

Originally Posted by patches84

The indirect injected H and 2H is just old technology-with or without a turbo.

Yeah, but sometimes that's sweet. My old inline pump munches through partially gelled and crappy fuel that the pump on a HDJ80 would not like... possibly even be killed by. They don't make em like they used to