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08-10-08, 04:30 PM
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#1 (permalink)
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Site Addict
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Cupertino, CA
Posts: 2,187
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3B valve stem seal replacement (pics!)
I *think* I've found the source of my occasional stink and oil loss. (see http://forum.ih8mud.com/diesel-tech-...l-mystery.html)
I don't see people talking about valve seals on 3B's much, but I found that 3 of them were loose, and 2 weren't even seated on the guides anymore, they were just floating up on the valve stem!!
Sadly, I couldn't get my hands on 8 seals, SOR only had 6 and I couldn't find ANY suppliers. I replaced 5, ruined one, and reused the tightest fitting of the old ones.  , I know.
Here are some pics, its an easy job...
#1 remove rocker cover and rocker ass'y.
#2 rig up a hose from your air compressor and set it to 90psi or so.
#3 i used a spare fitting from my compression tester set, if you do so, remember to drill out the schraeder valve inside it though.
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08-10-08, 04:32 PM
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#2 (permalink)
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Site Addict
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Cupertino, CA
Posts: 2,187
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#4 attach the compressor hose to your fitting with a clamp, and apply valve spring compressor
#5 tap the spring compressor to break the keepers loose and remove them
#6 remove the springs
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08-10-08, 04:34 PM
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#3 (permalink)
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Site Addict
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Cupertino, CA
Posts: 2,187
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#7 remove the old seal, just pull with a twist.
#8 install the new one. I used a socket to help push it down easily... they're TIGHT! so careful hammering is needed. I ended up ruining a seal by hammering it on cockeyed, beware!
#9 Voila! rinse, repeat.
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08-10-08, 05:09 PM
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#4 (permalink)
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Forum Regular
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Centre of the universe
Posts: 141
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Thanks man I never thought of that as a potential problem. It is also comforting to know that I am not the only one with a disaster for a garage! 
g
__________________
There is no such thing as a stupid question... just stupid people.
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08-10-08, 07:05 PM
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#5 (permalink)
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250+ Club
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Northern California
Posts: 600
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Another excellent tutorial.
__________________
1983 BJ42
1978 FJ40-Sold
1975 FJ40-Sold
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08-10-08, 07:26 PM
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#6 (permalink)
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Forum Lifer
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: New Zealand
Posts: 3,046
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Great work Drew. (I especially like the compressed air idea.)
__________________
Name's really Tom & I have a 1979 Australian-market BJ40 that is RHD and mainly "original" with Toyota PTO winch, 16" split rims, drums all round, B engine, H41 transmission and 12V electrics that I've owned since 1981
A hood is really a bonnet. A fender is really a guard. A windshield is really a windscreen. A zerk is really a nipple. A tire is really a tyre...........
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08-11-08, 08:48 AM
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#7 (permalink)
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Site Addict
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Cupertino, CA
Posts: 2,187
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gerg
Thanks man I never thought of that as a potential problem. It is also comforting to know that I am not the only one with a disaster for a garage! 
g
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I'm offended, thats the cleanest its ever been!!
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08-30-08, 10:06 AM
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#8 (permalink)
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250+ Club
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: San Diego, Pacific Beach
Posts: 338
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Thanks a LOT for the writeup. I'm going to need to do this on mine soon and pics always help a lot!
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08-30-08, 03:35 PM
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#9 (permalink)
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North Florida Cruiserhead
Join Date: May 2005
Location: The Sunshine State
Posts: 2,034
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Any other sources for the seals?
I don't even want to look at mine w/o new ones in hand.
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08-30-08, 03:58 PM
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#10 (permalink)
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Forum Lifer
Join Date: Feb 2004
Posts: 11,929
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nice write up...
thanks
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09-02-08, 08:05 PM
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#11 (permalink)
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250+ Club
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Maine
Posts: 836
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What gap did you set the valves to cold? Is there a general rule of thumb on what the cold gap should be? I know that the valves supposed to be adjusted when the engine is at operating temp but there has to be some baseline that's used as an initial setting.
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09-02-08, 09:08 PM
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#12 (permalink)
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250+ Club
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Maine
Posts: 836
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I found the answer in the FSM. (I should have checked there first.) The initial cold adjustment is the same as the hot.
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09-18-08, 06:04 AM
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#13 (permalink)
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250+ Club
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: land of oz
Posts: 308
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amaurer did this fix your oil usage problem,im doing my 12ht the same way tomorrow,ive got similar probs,good compression but chewing oil,keen to know how its going after you changed the seals
cheers goldchaser
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09-18-08, 08:58 AM
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#14 (permalink)
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Site Addict
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Cupertino, CA
Posts: 2,187
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Quote:
Originally Posted by goldchaser
amaurer did this fix your oil usage problem,im doing my 12ht the same way tomorrow,ive got similar probs,good compression but chewing oil,keen to know how its going after you changed the seals
cheers goldchaser
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no. 
Its not that they didn't need to be replaced, as it was clear my old ones were toast, it just sadly didn't fix it. I don't know if thats cuz i damaged some of the new seals putting them on, or, more likely, my problem is just elsewhere. sigh.
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