1HZ engine noise, harmonic balancer, delamination

[lshobie]

Hi guys,

I was a little worried that my engine was packing it in, I had a hollow knocking sound for the last couple of days and when I started it this morning it was making a nasty bearing/grinding sound. So, I spent most of the day taking the oil pan off, valve cover off, timing cover off, looking around, trying to see and hear where the problem was coming from - turns out it was the pully behind the harmonic balancer that the alt and AC belts are driven by.

The pully is not just a solid piece of steel, there is a steel part that the crank bolt goes through - then a rubber band, then the stell grooved part that the belts ride on. I guess the rubber section is used as a damper for loads. As it turns out the outer steel section delaminated from the rubber and was just slipping around on there.

229 bucks from ENS and I should be on the road tomorrow.

I'll post pics tomorrow when I get it off so you can see how it is put together.

Louis

[Tapage]

It cost me around 300 USD here in Panamá year or more ago .. Easy replace ..

[lshobie]

How did you get the crank bolt off??? It is on there really tight!

[rstl99]

Originally Posted by lshobie

How did you get the crank bolt off??? It is on there really tight!

WHen I once replaced a timing belt on a Land Rover 2.5 N/A engine (which required removing the crank bolt), the general advice was to use the 3/4 handle and socket on the crank bolt, rest the handle against the frame, and flip the starter to loosen the bolt. Or use the old approach of removing the starter and jamming a large screwdriver into the flywheel gears. After trying the latter rather unsuccessfully (I found the former a bit risky), I went with a lower tech approach: take the pan out, jam a piece of 2x4 between a crank journal and the side of the cast block, and get a long piece of pipe on the end of the 3/4 extension to crack loose the bolt. Used the same approach to torque the bolt back on (no torque wrench, getting the sucker as tight as I felt necessary).

Thanks for letting us know about this issue with the 1HZ.

[roscoFJ73]

Originally Posted by lshobie

How did you get the crank bolt off??? It is on there really tight!

I made up a spanner that fits the balancer and used the bolts that connect the pulley and balancer,otherwise ,use the starter motor.
I used the spanner because the engine was out.
You can also use the weight of the vehicle by fitting a spanner to the nut and lowering the vehicle.

I found the injection pump shaft nut ,far far harder

[lshobie]

I had tried the starter method earlier today and broke 2 breaker bars, I'll build the spanner tool tomorrow.

Thanks guys!

[roscoFJ73]

Originally Posted by lshobie

I had tried the starter method earlier today and broke 2 breaker bars, I'll build the spanner tool tomorrow.

Thanks guys!

Make the spanner a bit stiffer than mine as mine is a bit flexi

[lshobie]

OK will do - thanks.

[mac]

I have one of those sitting on my shelf- from Rosco! Decent price from Ens tho'. Getting the proper torque on it when replacing it is really the challenge- unless you have a torque wrench that does something like 750ft/lbs. I used a 4'bar and calculated the force req'd to achieve the proper spec. I then used a weigh scale to get the torque right.

[roscoFJ73]

Originally Posted by lshobie

I had tried the starter method earlier today and broke 2 breaker bars, I'll build the spanner tool tomorrow.

Thanks guys!

Im just thinking this is not going to work for you. If your engine is still in the vehicle it sbould be easy to stop the engine rotating by putting it ih high gear with the handbrake on.
I built my spanner because the engine was out and it was spinning.

Im thinking you will need one of those impact shifters that you hit with a 10lb hammer

[matt 105]

Originally Posted by lshobie

I had tried the starter method earlier today and broke 2 breaker bars, .......

Sure your going the right direction?
Ive never had a problem (getting the ballancer of a cruiser)and always use the starter method.
On some other engines, I haver used an old bearing shell in the flywheel teeth.

Matt

[crushers]

Louis, go buy a 3/4" set from Princess Lotto... you will never regret the purchase.
most of the sockets are used for installing seals, the breaker bar is STRONG and the proper sized nut is there for removing the crank nut...
$80

[lshobie]

Thanks Wayne, picked up the breaker bar set - put the socket on and rested the bar on a 2x4 on the ground - turned it over and it came right off very easily. That is one big toyota bolt!

The pulley came off easily with a puller, the part should be in today so the install will be easy. Not sure how I will torque it to 750 pounds or whatever it is - will probably just make a spanner tool and pull maybe a tenth of my manly power - don't want to snap that little bolt

Thanks guys!

[Tapage]

I need to remove the rad and the hole front grill to remove mine .. use some locktight to secure it ..

loctite 243. threadlocker. Super nut lock. Pt. # 21321 - eBay Plumbing, Building Materials, Hardware, Construction, Business, Industrial. (end time 24-Jul-08 13:36:53 AEST)

[crushers]

jamb the bar under the frame, put the tranny in first and roll the truck the direction you want the bolt to go...
or do as i do, get a 5 foot snipe and secure tightly...

[lshobie]

Awsome, will do that today or tomorrow.

Thanks guys.

[mac]

What is your impact gun rated for? If it's a good gun it will be rated for a high torque setting. A little loctite and a good hammering with the impact(assuming it's not a 1000ft/lb gun) and you should be good to go.

[lshobie]

All done, didnt need an impact gun - did it all without taking the rad out. Used a big homemade spanner and a 4 foot breaker bar, thread locker - it is very tight now.

Thanks guys.

[mac]

Good on ya. Actually by not using an impact you created a lot more room for yourself. With a 4' bar you need something like 110lbs of force to get to the spec.