rookie clutch question

[renaissanceman]

Recently I noticed that when pulling up hills in a high gear, my rpm's stay at what they would at 100 kmh, but the speedo registers the obvious fact that I'm slowing down. I'm guessing my clutch is badly worn and has begun to slip. When I shift, there's no grinding, but it's like I can feel the cogs bump a little as they mesh. I would think that the clutch isn't doing it's job of separating the engine and the drivetrain for pain free shifting. Am I on the right path? Seems like a clutch kit may be in order. Any recommendations for a good kit and supplier in Canada, as near SE BC as possible?

[djawahir]

I have a clutch disc, clutch cover, throwout bearing that has about 5,000 miles on it if you're interested. I took all that off because I'm going to a V8. You may still need to get a pilot bearing, but if you're interested, let me know.

[red_dirt_okie]

A fouled clutch will do this. Meaning if your rear seal leaks oil it will get all over the clutch pads causing them to slip. Weak springs in the clutch could cause this as well but not in most cases. However, the fj60 has allot of low end torque so I wouldn't rule it out. I know this wasn't much help but though I would chime in anyway.

RDO

[Mace]

Short shift the motor and floor it. If the motor RPM's increase but the speed does not, your clutch is slipping..

It does sound like it is time for a replacement tho..

[renaissanceman]

So, whether the clutch is weak or the friction surface is besmirched with oil, it's gotta go. I should obviously replace the rear main seal. Anything else recommended while I'm in there?

[renaissanceman]

Originally Posted by djawahir

I have a clutch disc, clutch cover, throwout bearing that has about 5,000 miles on it if you're interested. I took all that off because I'm going to a V8. You may still need to get a pilot bearing, but if you're interested, let me know.

How much? Include shipping if you don't mind.

[CruisinFJ60]

Originally Posted by renaissanceman

So, whether the clutch is weak or the friction surface is besmirched with oil, it's gotta go. I should obviously replace the rear main seal. Anything else recommended while I'm in there?

a throwout and a pilot bearing (if it isnt included in clutch kit)

[renaissanceman]

Originally Posted by red_dirt_okie

A fouled clutch will do this. Meaning if your rear seal leaks oil it will get all over the clutch pads causing them to slip. Weak springs in the clutch could cause this as well but not in most cases. However, the fj60 has allot of low end torque so I wouldn't rule it out. I know this wasn't much help but though I would chime in anyway.

RDO

It seems to be more prominent at high end, when the drivetrain has the mechanical advantage and the engine has to push harder to gain speed.

[renaissanceman]

By the by, could you inform me if compatibility is an issue? My rigs' an hj 62, with the 12 HT engine.

[Mace]

you would be better off asking this in the diesel specific forum. The 2F clutch will not interchange IIRC.

Want me to move the thread there?

[renaissanceman]

Originally Posted by Mace

you would be better off asking this in the diesel specific forum. The 2F clutch will not interchange IIRC.

Want me to move the thread there?

Make it so.

[orangefj45]

i'd say the clutch disc is worn to the point where the pressure plate cannot apply enough pressure to create a "positive lock". so it's time for a new clutch.

i'd recommend either an oem clutch kit from the dealer or an aftermarket kit from LUK.

[cody c]

i got my clutch kit for my bj60 from napa, it was some performance aftermarket looking kit and ran about $350. works good, and was my first real wrenching experience on a vehicle. It's a good oppurtunity to invest your money in wrenches instead of taking it to a shop if you feel courageous.

[Henry James the 47th]

SOR has some very inexpensive clutch parts and kits available

[code 621]

4 wheel auto. I did mine on my '84bj60 this past winter. It wasn't easy...but very do-able. The hardest part was pushing the trany back into position. I ended up using ratchet straps to push it back in place. All the other stuff ( rear main seal, pilot bearing, and whatever) was fairly easy

[rchalmers3]

Didga check the adjustment? It may be too late, but you might buy some time putting in a little free play if it's too tight.

BTW, oil on the clutch doth not a slipth make..... Chatter yes, but slip no.

Rick

[crushers]

so i am curious...
how many of you have ACTUALLY SEEN, first hand, an ENGINE oil soaked clutch disc in a land cruiser?

now i want you to think this through:
the oil seal is between the engine block and the flywheel
there is a drain hole at the bottom of the bell housing
the clutch disc is roughly 3/8" thick
the inner is protected by the flywheel
the outer is protected by the pressure plate
the chances of oil actually getting from the oil seal to the face of the clutch is remote...VERY remote.

now i have seen MANY contaminated discs. almost all are from off-road contamination (under water in mud) and i have tons of burnt discs but i have yet to see a single "engine oil" contaminated disc.

[crushers]

BTW repalce it, your's is done...
best way to tell if a clutch is slipping is to put your front tires against a curb or log, put it into third gear and let out the clutch... the engine should die, if not then your clutch is toast.

[orangefj45]

yup, chances of an oil contaminated clutch in a cruiser are very slim to none. ain't gonna happen.......

and oil will cause it to slip. chatter is caused by a mis-alignment issue between the flyhweel, disc, pressure plate, thro-out bearing. well, the combination of any two or more items in that list anyways....

[renaissanceman]

So, since I'm going to be in there, is it worth it to replace the pressure plate as well? Being a rookie, I don't know what kind of wear to look for, or what kind of tolerance in plate thickness is acceptable. It doubles my parts cost, and if it's really unnecessary, I'd rather not do it.

[crushers]

buy the kit, that includes the PP, disc, release bearing also ask for the pilot bearing and rear engine seal to be added... some kits even include a plastic alignment tool...

[roscoFJ73]

Originally Posted by renaissanceman

. Anything else recommended while I'm in there? So, since I'm going to be in there, is it worth it to replace the pressure plate as well? Being a rookie, I don't know what kind of wear to look for, or what kind of tolerance in plate thickness is acceptable. It doubles my parts cost, and if it's really unnecessary, I'd rather not do it.

I would have the flywheel machined. If done correctly,it will improve the frictional grip of the clutch disc.
You have to have it machined so it is not too smooth. Some places grind them but it doesnt alwaty get the surface as even as a proper lathe.

It is better to have everything new and you wont have to worry about it for another 100000 miles and buying individual clutch pieces is not cheap

[crushers]

LOL!!
i thought turing the flywheel was a given...my mistake and nice catch Roaco...

[roscoFJ73]

Originally Posted by crushers

LOL!!
i thought turing the flywheel was a given...my mistake and nice catch Roaco...

I never use to bother with machining them but after talking to a machinist and the fact it only cost $60 ,Ive had both my cruisers flywheels machined.
I just wish I hadnt put that crap chinese clutch in the 73 when I was low on cash:miserable:

[orangefj45]

definety replace everything while you're in there. LUK sells a great kit that includes the disc, pressure plate, pilot and throw-out bearings along with the plastic clutch alignment tool. best part about LUK is the fact that all components are new, not rebuilt or remanufactured. i used to run a transmission shop and then got into transmission parts sales before opening my own cruiser shop. i have sold and installed literally hundreds of LUK clutch kits with great success.

definetly check the rear main seal for leakage while you're in there ang get the flywheel resurfaced.


hth

georg @ valley hybrids

[orangefj45]

btw, there is only one situation i can think of that would result in an oil contaminated clutch disc.
the only tru direct oil passage from the engine to the disc is thru the flywheel bolts. so if one of the bolts came loose or the proper sealant was not applied when the bolts were installed, oil could work it's way along the threads and then get flung onto the disc.
this is posisble but very un-common. i have only seen it once.

[renaissanceman]

Thanks for all the info. Hopefully all goes well. BTW, Dan at 4Wheel Auto in Edmonton priced all of the parts separately, as the turbo diesel specs a burlier pressure plate to take the extra torque. So, higher price definitely buys a longer life. The typical clutch kit would apparently be under the rating for the turbo.

[crushers]

what i have found is the factory PP is plenty strong.... what kills the clutch is poor adjustment, you need full pressure when the clutch pedal is released.
of course, since you are redoing the clutch anyway stepping up is probably a good idea. on these heavier PP is the activation pressure still the same? i have never run one so i i do not know the answer...

[roscoFJ73]

Originally Posted by crushers

on these heavier PP is the activation pressure still the same? i have never run one so i i do not know the answer...

I have a exedy sports tuff on the 75 and it is noticeably harder that the stock clutch,but not unpleasantly so.It has lots of control and you can still make it slip if needed
I have a cheap light duty clutch on the 73 and it is softer than the stock clutch.

The parts boss at the dealer said the stock clutch was medium duty which seems about right. The dealer have dropped the price and are about the same as what I can get the exedy for now