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Old 06-23-08, 04:17 PM   #1
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Rotate the vacuum-pump?

On my HJ60 There is a vacuumpump bolted to the back of the alternator. It has, as far as I can see, 3 bolts 120 degrees apart.
The banjo and bolt for the vakuum-line might interfeer with some pipes that soon will cris-cros my engine bay

Can anyone tell me if there is any reason why I can't turn it around so the banjo ponts towards the wheel-well?
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Old 06-23-08, 05:40 PM   #2
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The oil flow throught the vac pump . ?


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Originally Posted by pygpen
if you aren't denting and bending stuff, you just aren't wheeling hard enough
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Old 06-23-08, 05:47 PM   #3
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The oil flow throught the vac pump . ?
You tell me!... I dont know?
Does anything rely on gravity?
Does oil run into the vacuum-hose if the car is upside down?


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Old 06-23-08, 11:07 PM   #4
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You will collect extra oil in your vacuum line, that pump has oil flowing through it. There is a check valve in there won't work properly if you turn it upside down.

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Old 06-23-08, 11:43 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by marting View Post
The banjo and bolt for the vakuum-line might interfeer with some pipes that soon will cris-cros my engine bay

Can anyone tell me if there is any reason why I can't turn it around so the banjo ponts towards the wheel-well?
I will tell you everything I know about rotating the pump (nothing) if you tell us what turbo you have selected for your ride!!!

Rick
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Old 06-24-08, 12:44 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by marting View Post
....Does anything rely on gravity? ...
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tapage View Post
The oil flow throught the vac pump . ?
Quote:
Originally Posted by freebie View Post
You will collect extra oil in your vacuum line, that pump has oil flowing through it. There is a check valve in there won't work properly if you turn it upside down.

Cheers
I would be wary about rotating it. I also suspect gravity may affect a check valve and/or oil flow.

(Despite having had my pump apart recently - I can't be certain though.)

If I was you, I'd take it off, take it apart, have a look at all the internals, and then make the decision myself.

I think there could be a reason why Toyota always seem to put that big banjo on the top.

Here's mine:

Name:  vacuumpump.jpg
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Size:  81.1 KB

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Old 06-24-08, 03:09 AM   #7
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Hmmmmm I guess I'll Just wait and see how bad it gets in the way.. Thanx guys!

Choice of turbo Rick: Still not sure.. Keep reading my other thread


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Old 06-24-08, 10:51 AM   #8
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I'm not really worried about the check valvle .. more than the proper oil flow at the top of the vacc pump .. maybe nothging to worri about it, but the vacc pumps are not cheap .. and are working turning every second that your engine it's running .. so wear could be a issue if are not properly oiled all time ..

just my .00002 cents ..


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Quote:
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if you aren't denting and bending stuff, you just aren't wheeling hard enough
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Old 06-24-08, 11:03 AM   #9
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I don't know about the gravity comments, as I see the bigger line is at the top. The bigger line should be the scavenge line for return oil. So if gravity was an issue you would think that line would be on the bottom. Like a turbo, you put the scavenge on the bottom and ensure it has no bends on the return that could cause the oil to pool.

My guess is you could rotate it. But like mentioned above, maybe take it apart and see if there is a reason to have it the way it is.

Other option is to remove that alternator and install another higher amp unit that doesn't have a vacuum pump. Then you could run an electric vacuum pump. Get a 200 amp or so unit and have power to run a welder etc.


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Old 06-24-08, 03:32 PM   #10
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......The bigger line should be the scavenge line for return oil. So if gravity was an issue you would think that line would be on the bottom. Like a turbo, you put the scavenge on the bottom and ensure it has no bends on the return that could cause the oil to pool. .......
But the big banjo (and connecting line) on the top come from the booster (or to be more accurate - from the vacuum reservoir which in turn sucks from the booster) and there shouldn't be any liquids flowing in that line at all Brownbear.

It is the side connection that dumps oil and "sucked gases" into the engine crankcase.



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Old 06-24-08, 04:21 PM   #11
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the oil is pressure in and gravity out...don't mess with it.


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Old 06-24-08, 10:38 PM   #12
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But the big banjo (and connecting line) on the top come from the booster (or to be more accurate - from the vacuum reservoir which in turn sucks from the booster) and there shouldn't be any liquids flowing in that line at all Brownbear.

It is the side connection that dumps oil and "sucked gases" into the engine crankcase.

Very good... thanks for correcting me. Yes the vacuum line should be up. Keeps it out of oil I think too... Thanks mr. Marbles.


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Old 06-25-08, 08:43 AM   #13
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shouldn't matter if the vacuum line is low--- some oil may get in, but will be sucked out as soon as the engine runs.

having said that, I'd take it apart to check it before moving it around.

the elec vac pump seems like a pretty decent idea. these toyota vac pumps are really spendy.

side note: wow. you're vacuum pumps are a lot cleaner than mine :(


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Old 06-25-08, 10:08 AM   #14
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the elec vac pump seems like a pretty decent idea. these toyota vac pumps are really spendy.
actually I found several electrics in summit for around 300 bucks .. but can buy a complete new alternator 110 amps with vacc pump attached for 200 USD .. that the reason that I'm not running a electric vacc pump right now.


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if you aren't denting and bending stuff, you just aren't wheeling hard enough
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Old 06-25-08, 10:26 AM   #15
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As far as i can tell from Lostmarbles picture, the upwards bend on the banjo that make the vacuum-hose stick up and out on mine, is absent on his pump.
Does this mean it would be ok to cut the banjo closer to the nut, and run the hose closer to the wheel-well? Or is the hose angeled like that to keep it above the oil-level in the pump?


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Old 06-25-08, 05:27 PM   #16
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As far as i can tell from Lostmarbles picture, the upwards bend on the banjo that make the vacuum-hose stick up and out on mine, is absent on his pump.
Does this mean it would be ok to cut the banjo closer to the nut, and run the hose closer to the wheel-well? Or is the hose angeled like that to keep it above the oil-level in the pump?
There is no problem associated with shortening that metal pipe on your banjo (so long as you can get the tubing to seal on what's left of it) Marting.

And you can turn the banjo around so the pipe faces in any direction you want. ................................Edit - Just had another look at your picture. Our banjos are different. Mine doesn't have that little "peg" coming out the side to fix its position. I suspect it is there just to stop the banjo from rotating as you tighten the thru-bolt - If so, you should be able to simply cut it off to turn your banjo. (My banjo doesn't have one of those. - I think you should first remove the thru-bolt and try pulling off your banjo to check out exactly what that peg is for. ---- Assuming you would like to turn your banjo.)

With that banjo on the top it is already protected from getting oil in it - so the way the piping/tubing (that connects to it) goes/points doesn't matter at all.

Here's another photo of mine showing there is no "peg" on the banjo:

Name:  alternator.jpg
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Size:  75.1 KB


Last edited by lostmarbles; 06-25-08 at 05:46 PM. Reason: Added note about "peg" and added photo
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Old 06-26-08, 02:10 AM   #17
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Thanx mate!


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Old 06-26-08, 08:32 AM   #18
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There is no problem associated with shortening that metal pipe on your banjo (so long as you can get the tubing to seal on what's left of it) Marting.

And you can turn the banjo around so the pipe faces in any direction you want. ................................Edit - Just had another look at your picture. Our banjos are different. Mine doesn't have that little "peg" coming out the side to fix its position. I suspect it is there just to stop the banjo from rotating as you tighten the thru-bolt - If so, you should be able to simply cut it off to turn your banjo. (My banjo doesn't have one of those. - I think you should first remove the thru-bolt and try pulling off your banjo to check out exactly what that peg is for. ---- Assuming you would like to turn your banjo.)

With that banjo on the top it is already protected from getting oil in it - so the way the piping/tubing (that connects to it) goes/points doesn't matter at all.

Here's another photo of mine showing there is no "peg" on the banjo:

Attachment 240497

Dude .. why all your engine pics .. looks clean like my tools . ? damn ! how can you keep it that clean ! congrats !


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Quote:
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if you aren't denting and bending stuff, you just aren't wheeling hard enough
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Old 06-26-08, 05:24 PM   #19
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Dude .. why all your engine pics .. looks clean like my tools . ? damn ! how can you keep it that clean ! congrats !
Truth is - At the moment it is seeing very little off-road use. Once I've finished working on it (the major work -that is), I hope to post pictures of it getting dirty out in the bush.

But I'm in no rush to finish. Because I enjoy "doing it up" just as much as I enjoy "wheeling".

Actually - if the opportunity presents itself - like a brilliant fine day after a heavy snowstorm in the mountains - I could even scoot off for some wheeling soon because it is presently "back in one piece".

Thanks for the compliments.



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Old 06-27-08, 11:08 AM   #20
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Dude .. why all your engine pics .. looks clean like my tools . ? damn ! how can you keep it that clean ! congrats !
I have just washed my engine bay.... But with an engine that doesn't leak anywhere all you have to do is avoid spilling oil and stuff.


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