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Old 06-21-08, 09:49 AM   #31
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it started with changing the 15 year rule to stop the JDM flood...that didn't work
then compliance issues was made more stringent in hopes of killing the JDM flood...that didn't work
ICBC and their BS report caused a number of insurance companies to refuse insurance coverage or raised the deductable...that didn't work
i guess they figure if the JDM is not allowed to 'stay' in Canada the private importers will get scared and stop importing...we will see.


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Old 06-21-08, 10:46 AM   #32
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as for value of JDM trucks in Canada...
supply and demand. the west coast is saturated with JDM vehicles so the value will go down.
Actually, a certain JDM rig has gone up in value in the last two years. And no, I won't sell my Safari.

But yes, Crushers is dead on regarding the maket being flooded. However, it is model secific. Businesses, curbers and pivate owners saw the high prices and demand for Land Cruiser and the Skylines as a great opportunity. The market has been flooded with more supply than demand and with lower quality units. The Delica market still seems to be strong. But even that has the potential to go in decline soon. For the careful buyer who is willing to do some testing and maybe some repairs, good deals can probably be had from the fad buyer who is now selling.
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Old 06-21-08, 02:13 PM   #33
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as for value of JDM trucks in Canada...
supply and demand. the west coast is saturated with JDM vehicles so the value will go down.
Hear, Hear!!!


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Old 06-21-08, 04:24 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crushers View Post
it started with changing the 15 year rule to stop the JDM flood...that didn't work
then compliance issues was made more stringent in hopes of killing the JDM flood...that didn't work
ICBC and their BS report caused a number of insurance companies to refuse insurance coverage or raised the deductable...that didn't work
i guess they figure if the JDM is not allowed to 'stay' in Canada the private importers will get scared and stop importing...we will see.
Wayne, i just don't understand why TC people are being pricks about this little subculture (well maybe not little anymore)...are they just ignorant and misinformed?? doesn't say in ivoac why they want to stomp on this. yes i'd like to exercise my freedom to choose what vehicle to drive (and choose to hopefully find a more environmentally friendly way to fuel it), but why is the gov't so against it? are they being influenced by local n. american car dealerships?? are sales getting affected by jdm's??

and now this "soil" BS?! is that really valid? i think ships and zebra mussels are a much bigger issue....look at lake simcoe..

all this makes me worry about how far veggie oil systems/home made fuel will go in the future, even tho it's great for the environment/carbon neutral, i'm sure the gov't will find some stupid reason to ban it....

like you said, we'll see....


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Old 06-22-08, 12:23 AM   #35
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This thread is totally sidetracked. I played my part, I admit. But while we're at it, don't be a "fad" buyer. That's my point. Do your research, know what you're getting into before you get in. Romey is a great example of a new buyer- lots and lots of questions covering the whole field of ownership and he'll no doubt be a Cruiser owner for a very long time. I'm not talking about keeping prices artificially inflated and no one with reason considers these vehicles to be $$ "investments". I'm speaking about educated ownership. Land Cruisers have always had a following of passionate owners who know their vehicles well. That's changing. Maybe I'm just a Cruiser snob.

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Hear, Hear!!!
Why the hate on for the West Coast, Dude? Mountain envy?


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Old 06-22-08, 06:16 AM   #36
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is it valid?
no

WVO?
there is chatter that the government wants to charge an estimated "road use" tax on anyone that runs WVO on Canadian roadways.

the government is protecting big (auto) business, it has NEVER been for the Canadian citizen.

why is there a quadillion different taxes on the stuff we need and want? ever notice ANYTHING you like to do has a tax (license, permit) on it?
do you remember when you could go fishing with a stick and a line and a worm? not any more. taxed
boating? taxed
hunting? taxed
renovating? taxed
soon we will be paying a tax for the air we breath...hold on...we do!

unless you are big business or a religion, you pay up the gazoo to exlist.
Quote:
Originally Posted by romey View Post
Wayne, i just don't understand why TC people are being pricks about this little subculture (well maybe not little anymore)...are they just ignorant and misinformed?? doesn't say in ivoac why they want to stomp on this. yes i'd like to exercise my freedom to choose what vehicle to drive (and choose to hopefully find a more environmentally friendly way to fuel it), but why is the gov't so against it? are they being influenced by local n. american car dealerships?? are sales getting affected by jdm's??

and now this "soil" BS?! is that really valid? i think ships and zebra mussels are a much bigger issue....look at lake simcoe..

all this makes me worry about how far veggie oil systems/home made fuel will go in the future, even tho it's great for the environment/carbon neutral, i'm sure the gov't will find some stupid reason to ban it....

like you said, we'll see....


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Old 06-22-08, 01:46 PM   #37
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well that's just nucking futs! gonna eventually have to go underground and bootleg waste grease for pete's sake...

mac, i got mountain envy! ju gota prol'em with that?! lol! well i certanily plan on bein an LC enthusiast for a long while, would certainly at least hope so....don't think i'll ever EVER get a new car (my 91 is the 'newest' vehicle i've ever owned..), and if and when the 80 has to move on, i'll just grab another 80 or some other LC. i guess with everything else, there are always those who purchase for (according to enthusiasts, however way you want to define that...) the wrong reasons....

ah well, we live by what the market dictates, we bend over and take it up the arse from the gov't, we do our best....

(sorry for jackin the thread althisforyou! but i'm sure you got your oil situation figured out by now)


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Old 06-22-08, 02:16 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crushers View Post
is it valid?
no

WVO?
there is chatter that the government wants to charge an estimated "road use" tax on anyone that runs WVO on Canadian roadways.
Actually, I just found out that using WVO is considered by the revenue people in Quebec to be an offense exactly the same a using heating oil here: you get fined stiffly for using it. They even have the gall to say so on their website, while on the other hand touting themselves as heroes ("ils se pčtent les bretelles", so much more appropriate to describe it in French ) for having converted a couple of buses for using FIVE PERCENT Biodiesel!!! Once again, you are encouraged to be green and recycle, as long as it profits big companies and more importantly, the Government. Don't you dare to recycle yourself!!!

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the government is protecting big (auto) business, it has NEVER been for the Canadian citizen.
Yep, that's exactly it. Governement mistrusts individual entrepreneurs and self made men.

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Originally Posted by crushers View Post
why is there a quadillion different taxes on the stuff we need and want? ever notice ANYTHING you like to do has a tax (license, permit) on it?
do you remember when you could go fishing with a stick and a line and a worm? not any more. taxed
boating? taxed
hunting? taxed
renovating? taxed
soon we will be paying a tax for the air we breath...hold on...we do!

unless you are big business or a religion, you pay up the gazoo to exlist.
Hear, hear!

Even the remote countryside is deluged with more and more laws and regulations. You can't do anything informal anymore: There's either a permit to get or some other form of privacy invasion going on. (Yes, there's even a permit demanded for a public gathering at the local community centre in my little village of a 1,500 [in the summer], that's how bad it's become!!!)

It's for our own good, Wayne. Big Brother has quietly taken us over many decades ago and we're just finding out now.


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Old 06-22-08, 02:21 PM   #39
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Quote:
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(sorry for jackin the thread althisforyou! but i'm sure you got your oil situation figured out by now)
Yeah, the grumpy old man says Mea Culpa, allofthisforyou


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Old 06-22-08, 03:04 PM   #40
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if the country was made of people like you and me then our government would be more cautious of the shit they try and pull...

Quote:
Originally Posted by 83bj60 View Post
Once again, you are encouraged to be green and recycle, as long as it profits big companies and more importantly, the Government. Don't you dare to recycle yourself!!!
Yep, that's exactly it. Governement mistrusts individual entrepreneurs and self made men.
Hear, hear!


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Old 06-23-08, 04:07 PM   #41
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oil

from what i've learned always run factory toyota filters.they have a nominal and beta raiting.do not add any additives to your oil or fuel.with your oil always look for an API certification(the round donut on the front)and don't change it to another brand.with your mileage i would run a 0w30 (0 at the front means 0 vis at start-up and 30 vis at temp.)check your top coolant hose when she's warm.if it's not hard to squeeze then you need a new rad cap.if your running green coolant you will need suplamental coolant additives.do not fill your rad with tap water because it creates scale.you can get demineralized water from any store.green anti was outdated 50 years ago.hope that helps
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Old 06-23-08, 06:03 PM   #42
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What 15 year old diesel engine calls for 0W30? I'm not talking wear, but oil clearances here...

Furthermore, have you checked your oil pressure lately? And are you aware of the 1HD-T Big End Bearing issue that is at least in part caused by excessive stress during combustion (the non turbo 1HZ engine does not suffer from this as much)?

Have you seen the results?

Name:  BEB.jpg
Views: 126
Size:  75.0 KB

Would YOU run such an engine in the summer in 25-30 Celsius with such as thin and runny oil as a 0W knowing how much stress these bearings endure?

Not Me!!!


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Old 06-23-08, 10:14 PM   #43
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The input on this thread makes me ALMOST encouraged that Canadians are waking up and are as "mad as hell and not going to take it any more!" .... Bravo gentlemen, love it, cheers,Tony


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Old 06-24-08, 09:13 AM   #44
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The input on this thread makes me ALMOST encouraged that Canadians are waking up and are as "mad as hell and not going to take it any more!" .... Bravo gentlemen, love it, cheers,Tony

Something like this ... YouTube - Twisted Sister - We're not gonna take it

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Old 06-24-08, 03:26 PM   #45
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I believe he sold the 81 in question here. Side note, while test driving the 81 we eventually bought, drove right past it parked in his driveway.


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Old 06-24-08, 04:01 PM   #46
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okay, i have been running 0/30 rottella T for almost 10 years now in ALL the diesels including that big old 7.3L powersmoke WITH NO ISSUES at all. brand new Mazda 2200 in 93 now has almost 400K on it (yah, yah it is a gasser) but that was summer and winter (and the first 140K was severely abused) in that vehicle for 15 years and it is still running strong...

and as for clearences, buddy the gassers have the same clearences as the diesels.

it is the ash content in the diesels you want to be concerned about.

now saying this, i do not recommend the 0/30 in the summer but i do in the winter and 15/40 in the summer.

you know me, screw the books...

BTW, the 7.3 pulled 8 ton across canada and the us a couple months back, the oil pressure never varried the entire trip.
so
if there really was an issue with 0/30 it would have shown up on that tow...

what is important is the quality of oil filter, crappy oil filter and you could be rebuilding your engine.

but <see sig line>


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Old 06-24-08, 11:04 PM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 83bj60 View Post
What 15 year old diesel engine calls for 0W30? I'm not talking wear, but oil clearances here...
Wayne answered that one.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 83bj60
And are you aware of the 1HD-T Big End Bearing issue that is at least in part caused by excessive stress during combustion (the non turbo 1HZ engine does not suffer from this as much)?
Is it excessive stress...or just shitty bearing composition. I think the latter.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 83bj60
Have you seen the results?
Yes, a number of times. Mostly on 1HD-T's, and on some 1HZ's.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 83bj60
Would YOU run such an engine in the summer in 25-30 Celsius with such as thin and runny oil as a 0W knowing how much stress these bearings endure?
Some information for you:

"First number (0, 5, 10) is cold weight."
"Second number (30, 40) is hot weight."

Multigrade Oils

"How does motor oil have good low temperature flow properties and give the protection necessary at high engine operating temperatures? This is achieved by having a high Viscosity Index which is defined as an empirical number indicating the degree of change in viscosity within a given temperature range. A high VI indicates relatively small change in viscosity with temperature change, whereas a low VI reflects a larger viscosity change with temperature. Most mineral oils range in VI from 0 to 100. Synthetics (used in motor oil) and hydrocracked stocks usually have VI temperatures exceeding 100."

I've been running Synth Esso XD 0/40 year round in my 13BT's and 12HT for a while now. I'll continue too do so.
When I get a 1HD-T into something personal I will be trying the Synth Esso XD 0/40 as well. If I lived in Panama I might reconsider that.

For me, in any IDI Toyota motor is it dino 15/40, changed out at 5000kms. If I was east of the Fraser Valley I would find a lighter diesel dino oil for the winters as Wayne has suggested.

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Not Me!!!
Fill your boots.

gb
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Old 06-24-08, 11:26 PM   #48
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For me, in any IDI Toyota motor is it dino 15/40, changed out at 5000kms. If I was east of the Fraser Valley I would find a lighter diesel dino oil for the winters as Wayne has suggested.
Same with the "big sister's" IDI engine. By 5,000 kms with two filters (one a by-pass) the oil thickening is noticeable to the eye, especially on cold used oil compared to cold fresh oil. Both 5W40 dino and 0W40 synthetic collect the same amount of soot. Apparently I should be able to do near 7000 kms according to the oil analysis others have done with the same engine. But there is no sense risking a premature engine rebuild for saving a bit on oil and filters.
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Old 06-25-08, 07:34 AM   #49
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If I lived in Panama I might reconsider that.


Actually I'm running gere 20W-50 Castrol Mineral and change it as soon as it reach the 2500km barrier .. in a hot day with heavy city traffic ( that mostly do in my 1HD-T ) you can see 16 PSI - 20 PSI .. it all depends how it goes outside.

I was running the same oit in Tencha and after a hard run it never reach the 20 PSI line .. always was over 22 PSI no matter what you do .. but in the last change swap to 15W-40 CRB Castrol with a 6 - 8 PSI less after a hard run .. ( all values based in normal operative temp and idle ) means the same 18 - 20 PSI ..

I thought I will back to 20W-50 in Tencha and give a shot to a 5W-50 Mobil 1 syntetic for the next oil change in Marilu ( 1HD-T ) and see what happends ..


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Old 06-25-08, 12:03 PM   #50
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okay, i have been running 0/30 rottella T for almost 10 years now in ALL the diesels including that big old 7.3L powersmoke WITH NO ISSUES at all. brand new Mazda 2200 in 93 now has almost 400K on it (yah, yah it is a gasser) but that was summer and winter (and the first 140K was severely abused) in that vehicle for 15 years and it is still running strong...

and as for clearences, buddy the gassers have the same clearences as the diesels.

it is the ash content in the diesels you want to be concerned about.

now saying this, i do not recommend the 0/30 in the summer but i do in the winter and 15/40 in the summer.

you know me, screw the books...

BTW, the 7.3 pulled 8 ton across canada and the us a couple months back, the oil pressure never varried the entire trip.
so
if there really was an issue with 0/30 it would have shown up on that tow...

what is important is the quality of oil filter, crappy oil filter and you could be rebuilding your engine.

but <see sig line>
No, no, I agree with you, Wayne, a Synthetic Diesel Oil of 0W30 will certainly be fine in winter, I've been using synthetic Rotella 5W40 this winter with good results (on the other hand had poor results with Mobil 1 the previous winter), even doing fairly high speed for a sustained amount of time, with no noticeable oil pressure degradation, up to about 10,000 km, heck I only used 1/2 litre over 15,000 km... As to recommend it for summer use... In 30 degree celsius weather?... Hmmm!

Remember: when these engines were designed, the oil clearances were such that NO 0W or 5W was recommended for sustained high speed driving. It's not for no reasons that they have oils designed for 'worn' engines... Although I don't know that for a fact, it's simply an assumption, but I presume these oils would have a greater amount of viscosity index improver to battle excessive pressure loss due to the extra oil clearances from engine wear. Unless I'm mistaken, of course. Those who better know the standards for oil lubricaton and standard oil clearances would be better placed to answer this (there may also be oil combustion reducers and other factors)...

In any case the fact is that when viscosity is reduced, so does the amount of oil between connecting rod and bearing... The engine in the Mazda (or the 3B for taht matter) may be extremely sturdy (the bearings have to withstand fairly low shock and/or pressures and could probably run with almost no oil pressure at all (in fact many engines can), but with our 1HD-Ts? Hmmm!

Oh and BTW, I totally agree with you regarding the oil filter. On that engine, the OEM filter with its dual elements is definitely a major advantage.

Anyway, like you say, 'what do I know', I'm pulling all this from my a** sitting 20 years on those Toyota Diesel Landcruiser driver seats


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Old 06-26-08, 01:25 PM   #51
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[quote=allofthisforyou;3405482]Hi guys, I recently purchased a 1992 Toyota Land Cruiser Turbo Diesel (HDJ81) without an owners manual.

Because it is getting higher fuel consumption then I expected (16L/100km) I am currently trying to sell it. In the mean time, I still have to make sure that the car is properly maintained and I have started with an oil, oil filter, and air filter change. Because the guy at the Toyota dealership sold me a filter that was too small for the engine, my LC is currently sitting in my driveway with a punctured oil filter and a drained oil pan. I am planning on adding fresh oil in the next couple of hours (I have 10L of MotoMaster 10W-30 diesel oil sitting in my garage) but I am just wondering whether I would be better off adding 15W-40 to this engine (I haven't been able to find this information, regarding an HDJ81, in any previous posts so if anyone knows what the "recommended" oil to be used is that would be greatly appreciated).

I live in Vancouver, B.C. (Canada) and the highest temperature that we get in the summer is about 35 or 36 deg. Celcius, for a day or two...

I purchased the 10W-30 oil because I read, on this site, that lower viscosity oil is supposed to give better gas mileage and lubrication, with the trade-off being that the engine ends up running louder. From the chart on this page: http://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/220628-oil.html (post #24) it seems that it should be okay to use 10W-30, but if you guys could let me know for sure, within the next few hours, that would be great.

Also, does anyone know how often the oil, and air filter, should be changed?? I changed the air filter on Saturday, and am going to change the oil today, but without a manual or the ability to read Japanese, I'm not sure how often I should change these two things (is it: oil 5,000 km/3 months and air filter 10,000 km/6 months??).

If my gas mileage gets better within a month of this oil/air filter change I may still keep this vehicle (it currently has 35" tires on it so I'm not expecting it to get the 7 L/100 km @ 60 km/hr and 10 L/100 km @ 100 km/hr that it is "supposed" to get, but if I can get it down to about 11 L/100 km around the city then I figure it would use the same amount of fuel as a Suzuki Sidekick, with bigger tires on it, and I would be happy...)

Anyways, thanks in advance for any advice,
Rob[/quote


The right oil is very important in these hdj81's. You must use oil with at least 3000 ppm calcium. There are a few oils available that meet the JDM LC criteria. These are Shell Rotella T Plus, Chevron Delo, Amsoil, and a few others. The wrong oils have been the main reason for BEB failures/premature wear. Make sure you use the proper toyota oil filter as it has an important built in bypass filter that other fitting filters dont have. You can get them from Jcruisers in Armstrong BC. He imports OME hdj81 parts from japan. I can send you all the info you ever need about oils and filters for hdj81's that a fellow here in kelowna sent me. I dont know if I can send that big of file on this forum so if you want it, just PM me with your Email. CHEERS
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Old 06-26-08, 01:40 PM   #52
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change out the BEBs, it really is that simple...


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