Valve ajustment

[eleblanc]

Just out of curiosity, i've read once that for a 3B, valve must be ajusted every X km. Is that really necessary?

[lshobie]

I did it whenever I bought a BJXX model just for the heck of it. If it hasn't been done to your truck it is not a bad idea - especially with the turbo. It is a fairly easy job and there are some helpful tricks on here about doing it.

[eleblanc]

Originally Posted by lshobie

I did it whenever I bought a BJXX model just for the heck of it. If it hasn't been done to your truck it is not a bad idea - especially with the turbo. It is a fairly easy job and there are some helpful tricks on here about doing it.

You mean i can do that myself?

[eleblanc]

Been talking with a friend and i think i may have a manifold leak, the engine has been ticking more then usuall. and the top of my manifold is white. I'l try to post up a picture.

I've check the manifold bolt and the top one are all tight.

any trick to detect a manifold leak?

[lshobie]

If you hear ticking the you are proobably right. Exhaust manifold I assume. Did you machine the surface when you added the turbo? You can just put the mating surface on a flat sander belt and get the same result - then use a new gasket. Lots of pressure there that wasn't before.

you can adjust the valves yourself - easy - but chek for tips on here - someone had a good tip for setting them up.

[eleblanc]

Originally Posted by lshobie

If you hear ticking the you are proobably right. Exhaust manifold I assume. Did you machine the surface when you added the turbo? You can just put the mating surface on a flat sander belt and get the same result - then use a new gasket. Lots of pressure there that wasn't before.

you can adjust the valves yourself - easy - but chek for tips on here - someone had a good tip for setting them up.

Which surface? the manifold surface?
I mean by ticking the sound of badly ajusted valve. But i think when you have a manifold leak you can hear the same noise.

[lshobie]

Yes you will hear a ticking noise too. Yes resurface the manifold, and you can take an airtool with an light abrasive pad and wheel and clean the surface of the block.

http://forum.ih8mud.com/diesel-tech-...xtraction.html

[brownbear]

start with the valves and see if it goes away.

One trick is to use a dial gauge instead of a feeler gauge. cause the feller gauge cannot compensate for any indentations on the wear surface of the rocker. That tip came from someone else on here. Not me.

I have to do my adjustment soon.

There are lots of easy descriptive valve adjustment pages here.

First hit on google... Toyota 3B valve adjustment specs

[eleblanc]

what is the white? could the manifold turn white?

[brownbear]

all my exhaust leaks have been black and sooty. Yours could be exhaust... but maybe it is burnt coolant. I dunno. Is it coming out around the exhaust flange?

Wipe it clean if it come off and see how long before it re-appears..

[eleblanc]

The white won't go away, i've put water on it, and scrubb it. It dries and come back just like it was. And the white is mostly near the turbine, (hot side). So my guess is that the paint on the manifold is changing color.....i guess.

[lshobie]

I think you are right - paint is changing colour.

[brownbear]

Yah I would not worry about it.

[eleblanc]

Turboglide, says white = excessive heat, check EGT. But i never cross 900 deg F long full load. Right now at 100 kph on a leveled road i'm at 750deg F.

Here is a picture to show how deep the pyro probe is in the turbo outlet elbow. Do you think it is not deep enough? i personnaly don't think a 1/4" or 1/2" deeper would really change anything. But i maybe wrong...

[eleblanc]

I'm not in the middle 2/3 tho...

[brownbear]

your picture of how deep you are never showed. It might matter. But I guess not too.

The white stuff, could it be soap that is dried on from a car wash etc?

Like I said I would not worry.

What PSI are you running on your turbo. I run 10-12 psi max and hardly ever see 800-900 post turbo. Average higway is 600-700 for me.

[eleblanc]

I washed the engine with a hot water pressure washer lately. But no soap there since it was installed.

I've added the picture to my link. If i had a manifold leak, shouldn't i notice some black carbone build up where it leaks? Also the probe is not perfecly leveled with the steel bushing. It should be 1/16 to 3/32 higher.

Boost never go over 10psi. Seems limited by the waste gate.

[brownbear]

Originally Posted by eleblanc

If i had a manifold leak, shouldn't i notice some black carbone build up where it leaks?

Thats what I think. I can see my little leaks. Black little streaks. If you don't see that I don't think you have a leak..

Yes your probe could go in further. But unless you can thread the bushing in further that is what you have to live with. I doubt mine is much different. I welded a fitting to my elbow. So I think we are the same height.

[freebie]

Hi all
The pyrometer is a thermocouple which needs to see temperature difference between the tip and the other end (connection to the lead wires) if there is no difference the reading will be lower or zero! I would tend to keep the probe in the minnimum distance? or you could check it with a propane torch, try heating the tip only (record the temperature) and then move the heat up the probe to see what happens to the temperature reading does it increase or decrease. This will give you an idea of the correct depth.

Cheers

[BURGER]

Originally Posted by freebie

Hi all
The pyrometer is a thermocouple which needs to see temperature difference between the tip and the other end (connection to the lead wires) if there is no difference the reading will be lower or zero! I would tend to keep the probe in the minnimum distance? or you could check it with a propane torch, try heating the tip only (record the temperature) and then move the heat up the probe to see what happens to the temperature reading does it increase or decrease. This will give you an idea of the correct depth.

Cheers

Yes and no. A pyrometer is a thermocouple but they work on the basis of:
A pyrometer consists of two parts: a thermocouple and a galvanometer
The thermocouple works on the principle that if two dissimilar metals
are heated where they join then a small electric current is generated.
The galvanometer is really a millivolt meter, because the current so
generated is in thousandths of volts. Most galvanometers are of the
swinging-arm type although digital ones are now appearing on the
market. The swinging arm type is very sensitive to knocks, dust, heat,
etc., and most malfunctions occur because of these factors. This type
is also less accurate, as its scale is limited in size and it is not
easy to differentiate between the 20 C calibrations so that
effectively we can only be sure of a reading of plus or minus 10 C.

I got this from a potters website but the principle is the same. I think in an immersion situation like the exhaust over time say running on the highway the whole Kprobe(thermocouple) would become relatively uniform in heat. I'm not posititve on this latter part but I think the temp difference would be minimal. also know from my job(HVAC) we use thermocouples all the time and I have never heard of the keep the wire end cool as it won't work. I have seen times where a shoddy service guy has placed the whole probe completely in the pilot flame and it worked just fine.

[freebie]

Hi Burger and thanks for the insight, you may be right but the simple test is to heat up the probe and see if it changes the output to the sensor?
The thermocouple will definetly not respond correctly if heated through its entire lenght, try one with your torch and a millivolt meter :-)

Cheers

[eleblanc]

Why do i have 3 marks on my crank pulley? in the toyota engine maintenance they say align it to the mark on the pulley. But there seem to show to align to one of the 2 closes marks. So there are 2 very close mark and a other one about 90 deg, which is the correct?. I'm just finish doing this and we did it with the second mark of the two close together. At the other mark there were more then 4 rocker lose.

Which is the good one?

[eleblanc]

Anyone?

[eleblanc]

Originally Posted by brownbear

start with the valves and see if it goes away.

One trick is to use a dial gauge instead of a feeler gauge. cause the feller gauge cannot compensate for any indentations on the wear surface of the rocker. That tip came from someone else on here. Not me.

I have to do my adjustment soon.

There are lots of easy descriptive valve adjustment pages here.

First hit on google... Toyota 3B valve adjustment specs

I haven't run the truck on steap road to have it run with a good load, and even tho i am unsure i've aligned the crank pulley properly seems like my ticking has went away after ajusting the valve! Sure was easier then removing the manifold!

[brownbear]

very good to hear. I'm sure you did it correct. I have no idea on the lines on your crank. I tried to find out, but my pdf manual on my computer is too slow.

Cheers, BB.. did you use a feeler gauge?

[eleblanc]

Originally Posted by brownbear

Cheers, BB.. did you use a feeler gauge?

No a dial and a magnet base. Not alot of place to hold the base, if the arm is short...