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#1 |
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IH8MUD Junior
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A couple of Mysteries
Hi folks,
I wanted to get these pics up while I was I having some coffee this morning, so sorry for lack of info. Going to head out later and take a closer look at both of these. Pics are from my 1982 bj42. First, I can't figure out what this box is/does. It sits approximately under the left hand (passenger) seat. The soft lines pictured connect to some hard lines near the bottom of the firewall, but I haven't traced their path in the engine bay yet. ![]() ![]() Next, my parking brake handle looks like this, with extra cable sticking out. Anyone have this happen? Does it mean my brakes are dragging, or just that the cable is sticking somewhere? Apparently I lost the pictures for that, but basically the cable dangles a couple inches above the handle when the handle is pressed towards the floor (released). Parking brake otherwise seems to work fine, although I noticed the other day that it started to slip slightly on a steep incline. |
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#2 | |
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IH8MUD Junior
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: switzerland
Posts: 154
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Quote:
Need to shorten-adjust the cable, it sounds like. not sure how to do it, though. |
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#3 | ||
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IH8MUD Lifer
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: New Zealand (The other side of the world to most of ya!!!)
Posts: 1,824
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Quote:
Quote:
I can't see any photo connected with this question but Psycho is probably right again.![]() Trust us (Psycho ... and myself ). I'm sure the pseudonyms we've chosen inspire confidence? __________________ Name's really Tom & I have a 1979 BJ40 that is RHD and mainly "original" with Toyota PTO winch, 16" split rims, drums all round, B engine, H41 transmission and 12V electrics that I've owned since 1981 The only people that aren't insane are the ones I don't yet really know. |
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#4 |
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IH8MUD Regular
Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 262
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Yeah,
I thought that was a fuel water seperator, and mine isnt hooked up - should it be connected? __________________ -24 volt 1980 BJ40. -Five 24 Volt Hobbs heavy duty equipment lights. -32x11.5 GWrench AT's. |
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#5 |
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IH8MUD Lifer
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: New Zealand (The other side of the world to most of ya!!!)
Posts: 1,824
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Well it gives you "a reserve of vacuum" so you won't immediately lose your "brake boost" should your engine stall. (Then again - petrol-powered cruisers don't have these separate reservoirs. -- But then perhaps their "vacuum reserve" is "built into the booser body" because the boosters on most petrol models seem to be massive compared to mine.)
And if you go "deep wading" and happen to apply the brakes while doing so, the reservoir (if connected) would tend to act as an "accumulator to store water" and thus prevent it going straight into your vacuum pump (and possibly smashing the carbon paddles there). (When you apply your brakes, air is sucked into the booster via those "air intake holes" in the rubber boot around the pushrod behind your brake pedal.) So it is entirely up to you whether you reconnect your reservoir. Personally, I prefer to have my vehicle standard - unless changing gives me clear advantages. Here I see only disadvantages in disconnecting the reservoir - Although I admit they don't appear to be BIG disadvantages.
__________________ Name's really Tom & I have a 1979 BJ40 that is RHD and mainly "original" with Toyota PTO winch, 16" split rims, drums all round, B engine, H41 transmission and 12V electrics that I've owned since 1981 The only people that aren't insane are the ones I don't yet really know. |
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#6 | |
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IH8MUD Junior
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Well, that solves one question. I'll try to look those up for some more info. If it can also accumulate, should it be periodically drained?
Quote:
Weird thing is it used to sit flush to the handle (the little nub at the end of the cable) and one day when I released the brake it just stopped following the handle all the way down. Sorry, should have edited that post better, I didn't find the photo I snapped of it, but might take another one if my "shorten adjust" search doesn't help. Could something like this be causing brake drag in the drums in back? (80% sure the parking brake connects there on this truck). |
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#7 | |
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IH8MUD Lifer
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: New Zealand (The other side of the world to most of ya!!!)
Posts: 1,824
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Quote:
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#8 | |
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IH8MUD Junior
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Quote:
Fresh pic of the brake lever and cable:
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#9 |
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IH8MUD Junior
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: switzerland
Posts: 154
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i'd have to crawl under the truck to check, but i bet there's a clamp that fixes the cable-housing to the body somewhere near to underneath the lever. the cable likely has slipped through this clamp and let the cable and housing pull up a bit.
you might find this clamp is now holding the cable firmly with the remnants of the plastic housing that was stripped off when the whole thing slipped. pure speculation, but you'll find that most cable-based systems work similar. |
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#10 |
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IH8MUD Lifer
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: New Zealand (The other side of the world to most of ya!!!)
Posts: 1,824
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There should be some sort of "return spring" to ensure the brakes don't stay "engaged" and I would expect this spring
(or "springs" - plural) to also prevent the adjustment knob from being able to pop up like that. So I would check at the other end of the cable to see if the spring(s) is broken or if the mechansim there has seized up to cause a similar effect. Cheers PS. My e-brake acts on the driveshaft so I am not really familiar with those that act on the rear drums. __________________ Name's really Tom & I have a 1979 BJ40 that is RHD and mainly "original" with Toyota PTO winch, 16" split rims, drums all round, B engine, H41 transmission and 12V electrics that I've owned since 1981 The only people that aren't insane are the ones I don't yet really know. |
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#11 |
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IH8MUD Lifer
Join Date: Feb 2004
Posts: 9,203
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does the e/brake work at all?
the e/brake is one of the biggest POS toyota ever invented (right up there with the 2LTE head design). once again designed by an engineer that had no sense of reality. i would check the towers at the backing plates where the cable attaches to the steel lever going through the aluminum towers into the rear drum housing. these are notorious for siezing up. steel/aluminum/water... some smart engineer designed that one. __________________ pulling this info out of my ass so take it with a pound of salt "People are poor because they don't spend money wisely, tough sh!t !!! " John Galt 09/22/08 Wayne Owen Sound Ontario http://www.ivoac.ca separating the rumours from the truth. join today |
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#12 | ||
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IH8MUD Junior
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Quote:
The dude I bought it from recommended not trusting the e-brake in older LCs, but it seemed alright for a long time. Like I said, the cable just suddenly did that after I released the ebrake one day. Had been on the freeway for a bit, stopped at a campsite ranger gate, engaged brake, sat there, released, and then the problem started. Quote:
At the drum housing, I am not entirely certain what I am looking for. It appears that the springs might be a little stretched and maybe not returning all the way. The position of the arms moves only minimaly when engaging/disengaging the ebrake. I'll try to get some measurements and pics, but it looks like my problem may be where Crushers mentioned? If so, any suggestions on un-sticking them without replacing? Is changing to a different ebrake style a big job? Would like to go to rear discs in the next year or two. Thanks again for the help! |
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