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Old 05-10-08, 03:46 PM   #1
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Crazy Starter

I was cruising down the road and I hear this high pitch whine so I pull over to listen and it stoped, got it home pulled into the garage and there is the whine again. I can hear it's the starter motor and I can smell something burning. I quickly shut the motor off and it stoped with a loud klunk. Needless to say the starter is fried (it got really hot) and now won't turn over. Thoughts on it being rebuildable? If yes where is a good place in CT to get it done? Thanks


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Old 05-10-08, 04:38 PM   #2
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Any electric motor place should be able to rebuild it.


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Old 05-10-08, 05:39 PM   #3
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I have a 12v 3B starter if you need one..

http://forum.ih8mud.com/parting-out/...ine-parts.html



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Gord
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Old 05-10-08, 07:28 PM   #4
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Aside from a faulty ignition switch, what would make it flip out like that?


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Old 05-10-08, 07:32 PM   #5
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I actually had the same thing happen, but caught it before the starter burned out. For me it was the ignition switch doesn't fully spring back to "run" on its own; you hafta turn it out from "start" by yourself. I'd done it countless times subconciously but then one day I must have changed my technique somehow.


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Old 05-10-08, 07:36 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Moe R View Post
Aside from a faulty ignition switch, what would make it flip out like that?
The contacts probably welded themselves together. That's an easy repair that you could do yourself. If the motor is burnt (which it probably is now) then you either need Gord's starter or a rebuild at an electric motor shop.


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Old 05-10-08, 07:57 PM   #7
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I'm kind of an electrical dummy but are the contacts the brushes? I have an FSM and nowhere does it mention contacts.


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Old 05-10-08, 08:08 PM   #8
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The contacts are for the solenoid, housed in the box on the starter next to the motor. You can remove the back panel to view them. You'll see a plunger with a round copper disk on it that contacts two copper plates beneath it. If the plunger got welded to the plates you have your culprit.

These pictures were from when I was troubleshooting the same problem. As I said, mine turned out to be the ignition switch, so make sure you start with the easy stuff first.
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Old 05-10-08, 08:23 PM   #9
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Thanks
That's the only part of the starter the FSM dosen't explain. Excellent pics, I know exactly what your talking about.


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Old 05-10-08, 09:32 PM   #10
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Take a good look at the copper that the disc contacts as well. They almost always wear unevenly and you'll likely see one side worn much more than the other. The contacts and plunger are available easily. I have part numbers posted in the parts thread.


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Old 05-10-08, 09:56 PM   #11
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I wouldn't mess with rebuilding the contacts. New reman from toyota is like 100 or 120

http://forum.ih8mud.com/diesel-tech-...rter-died.html

or buy gords..


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Old 05-10-08, 09:58 PM   #12
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Take a good look at the copper that the disc contacts as well. They almost always wear unevenly and you'll likely see one side worn much more than the other. The contacts and plunger are available easily. I have part numbers posted in the parts thread.
That statement truely gives huge clairity to my situation. From what you wrote, I'm sure there will be uneven wear because many times, when I tried to start the engine I would get only a click and after a few attempts the starter would engage and off I go. The uneven wear would create a situation where I would not complete contact and experence the click. Good stuff Cruiser Guy. Many Thanks !


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Old 05-11-08, 08:41 AM   #13
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Quote:
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I'm sure there will be uneven wear because many times, when I tried to start the engine I would get only a click and after a few attempts the starter would engage and off I go. The uneven wear would create a situation where I would not complete contact and experence the click. Good stuff Cruiser Guy. Many Thanks !
Sounds like you might have waited too long though. Contacts and plunger are like $20 and you can replace them in an hour if you're half way good with a wrench.


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Old 05-11-08, 09:42 AM   #14
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Yeah. I think your right. The click thing only happened once in awhile so I lived with it. I thought it might have been a relay. Hope it's not too expensive of a lesson. I hope others with the same problem will learn from this. Thanks again!!


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Old 05-11-08, 03:04 PM   #15
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The Carnage

It definatly welded itself.Is the plunger suposta just slide out? Cuz it's seized.
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Old 05-11-08, 03:42 PM   #16
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yeah.. you can take the top stud nuts off to. that'll help you get the plunger and contacts out. hopefully your motor is still good. I replaced my contacts. It helped slightly then i'm sure the contacts on the motor were shot. buying the parts and replaceing all of it wasn't worth my time anymore compared to what a toyota reman was.


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Old 05-11-08, 03:57 PM   #17
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Wes, where did u find your reman and what do they go for? I wouldn't mind getting one thats been fresh so to speak.


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Old 05-11-08, 04:46 PM   #18
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the 12 v from toyota 28100-54090-84 which is a 2.5 kw gear reduction. then swap the nose cone. It was like $120 from toyota. I'll sell you my almost new contacts from my old one if you want.


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Old 05-11-08, 04:55 PM   #19
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I hate to sound too stupid but is the nosecone the magnetic switch?? Mines fried.


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Old 05-11-08, 06:22 PM   #20
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Moe R, the plunger should slide out easily followed by a spring and ball. You might be able to get it out if you take the nuts on the outside off and push the two bolts back in so the contacts are free of the housing. I'm not sure if there is enough room for that though so you may have a little work on your hands.

The nosecone is the part with the plunger/contacts (basically what you have pictured) so you'd need to fix yours to take advantage of the cheap rebuild.

Is your truck a 24v or 12v BJ42? Canadian trucks are 12v and I think Aussie trucks are 12v.


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Old 05-11-08, 06:49 PM   #21
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Hey C-Guy
I have a 12V from NZ. Not enough room to get the studs out. I will try to free the plunger. Too bad the FSM has nothing about the magnetic switch.The black plastic thing fried and fell appart when I touched it. Everything else is cooked. So, where do u find the "slightly" more expensive reman?


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Old 05-11-08, 08:12 PM   #22
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Buy Gord's "exmolad's" starter and be done with it. Save your old one for next time as parts. A 3B rebuild in the US would have to come from SOR or you need to buy new.


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Old 05-11-08, 08:58 PM   #23
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I dont see anything wrong with buying gords unit. If I can purchase a remaned unit than I don't have to worry if gords unit will have new connectors or brushes or paint. Just like to have the option. If u can direct me,great.


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Old 05-11-08, 09:01 PM   #24
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Im in the process of getting the 2H on my 82 Troopy worthy for daily driving as my work rig and was considering replacing the starter. Worth it or just forget about it until necessary? I got a price on a new starter....$1466. Seemed pretty steep to me. I was also thinking about replacing the alternator. I do need all new radiator hoses, probably a radiator, thermostat, speedo cable, rocker cover gasket...the list keeps growing. Im wide open for suggestions/tips. Thanks. Dave
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Old 05-11-08, 09:03 PM   #25
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The nosecone is the part with the plunger/contacts (basically what you have pictured) so you'd need to fix yours to take advantage of the cheap rebuild.
The nosecone is the piece that mounts to the bellhousing. The rest is the body, which houses the contacts and motor assembly. I'll see if I can find a pic

so the bright new shiny part is the piece that comes with the 2l starter. you swap that off the new one and put yours on so it fit's the 3b. The pic is my old starter motor and contact housing on the 2l nose cone. make sense? Supposedly you can do the same thing with cummins starters. There is info here from lowenbrau.


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Old 05-12-08, 07:58 AM   #26
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Im in the process of getting the 2H on my 82 Troopy worthy for daily driving as my work rig and was considering replacing the starter. Worth it or just forget about it until necessary? I got a price on a new starter....$1466. Seemed pretty steep to me. I was also thinking about replacing the alternator. I do need all new radiator hoses, probably a radiator, thermostat, speedo cable, rocker cover gasket...the list keeps growing. Im wide open for suggestions/tips. Thanks. Dave
Generally the Totoya starters are pretty good. I wouldn't replace it though I might change the contacts.


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Old 05-12-08, 03:26 PM   #27
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Sorry ! I get it, finally. Sometimes the frustration of ones (my) lack of knowlege cripples the mind. For $143.00 I can have a reman starter. I'll be keeping my eye or ears on those contacts. Thanks all !


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Old 05-15-08, 05:48 PM   #28
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On The Road Again

My starter is in and running smooth. Thanks to Cruisre Guy (thanks for ur patients), Wesintl (couldn't have done it without u) and Lowenbrau cuz he helped u out.Had to bling the nosecone, hope u like.
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