3B clutch slave- trick to re-attatching?

[beejay42]

More newb questions from me
So- in removing my starter motor for investigation, and then a temporary solder-fix (to see if my engine would indeed run) I had to take off the clutch slave to get access to the bottom bellhousing bolt for the starter motor.
This all went fine-
the problem came when trying to get it back on-

It was just that little bit too tight against the clutch arm thing- and it was an absolute bastard of a job to get it back on.
I put a rope around the arm and had someone pulling from the back- quite strongly, and managed to move it maybe 1mm or so in- and with much pain, many attempts, swearing and frustration just got the slave back on.
No problem...
now I have to take off my messed up starter motor again tomorrow to send away for a rebuild- so for later when I have to try to put it back on again-
Is there a trick to this I am missing?
There really didn't seem any way of adjusting anything to make it easier?

btw- trying with a LOT of strength to pull the rope attached to the arm back- and watching it barely move at all had me wondering if it was even meant to move any further- and question myself what the hell was happening and how I had managed to confuse this somehow...it was soo hard/impossible to move back.
Then got the slave back on- and one press on the clutch from someone above and I watched the whole thing effortlessly move back an inch or so-
taught me like nothing else before the sheer power of hydraulics

[Joe Egolf]

Man , I hope that does not become a problem for me when I replace my master cyl and slave cyl on my BJ42 when I get em from canada.

[AJAEbj42]

I replaced my slave cylinder about a year ago and if I recall, it was fairly straight forward? One thing that I do recall made it easier is to make sure that the slave is adjusted all the way (to the loose end) if that makes sense. After it is installed, you can adjust it to make sure it is 'tight'. You'll know if you push on the clutch and the goal is to have about 1/4-1/2 inch of 'play' at the top of the clutch stroke.

Let me know if that doesn't make sense and I'll try to re-explain it!

Cheers,
Rob

[american psycho]

you could let a bit of fluid out of the bleeder plug or shorten the push rod.

what year and which transmission? i'm wondering if i'll be having this problem with my 83 3B with the h55f.

[AJAEbj42]

Here is a picture of the slave cylinder. The pen points to the adjustment nuts...

[freebie]

I would go with the above suggestion (bleed off the pressure) if you open the bleed screw slightly you will be able to compress the rod into place. Keep out of the way the fluid will squirt out hard enough to spray you in the eyes.
Once the bolts are in it would not hurt to flush a little of the old dirty fluid out through the bleeder while you top up the reservoir.
When you adjust the linkage just bring the pushrod up againest the clutch fork, and retighten the lock nut, then check your pedal play.

Good luck

[beejay42]

I should have included a few more details-
its a 82' BJ42 with a H41

I bled fluid until the rod pushed up hard to the end-
the 'lock-nut' on the rod (pictured above) made no sense to me as to how it adjusts anything certainly not in the direction I wanted (this is probably what I am stuffing up)
So basically with the push rod all the way in and its end seated in the hole for it in the clutch fork It was a few mm too long to get the bolts in the hole- thus had to try to pull from the back on the clutch fork.
I'll try today to see what I missing with the lock nut- that really is the only thing it could be-
and if my girlfriend left the camera today- take a few shots.

and yes- squirting fluid was had and one point- invloving the whole cylinder coming out (don't ask)- at least it gave me a chance to check the condition of the gasket which was 100% (after cleaning out the dirt it collect from landing on the ground)- and learn how to bleed air from the line after getting it back in.

[beejay42]

oh, and AJAEbj42
thanks for the photos-
looking at your clutch fork- I have realized that I am missing that whole rubber seal thing- mine just has a big black hole- open for the inflow of whatever is driven through
hmmm.
Time to find a part number...

[freebie]

beejay

There are two nuts on the pushrod! you will need to grab the rod with pliers or vise grips, then loosen the first nut adjust the second one (near the cylinder) then once it feels right re-tighten the lock nut.
The boot you are missing cost me over $40 CDN two years ago!!! its a part number 31126-36030, but thats the North American number ??

Good luck and nice looking 42

[swifty]

Hey Mate, I've had my starter in and out a few times. Didn't run into any probs at all with the slave. Did you drop the starter down or lift it up past the edic? I took my edic out long ago so maybe that makes it easier?
Oh yeah i ran mine without the rubber boot for ages with no apparent problems. But i should get a spring for it to stop the rattles

[beejay42]

Thanks Freebie- that part number may save me a lot of time-

what I didn't get with the push rod is that the back nut on mine appears part of the rod- and doesn't move- making any movement of the forward nut irrelevant- I could have had this wrong though...
I the starter off today with no drama's (off is easy) and was busy with other stuff- so didn't have a close look at it again- but will soon.

Hey swifty-
the problem is that the bolt head is just about hard up against the side of the slave cylinder- so that I can't fit a socket over the head-
I might be able to do it with a spanner- but there is a lot of thread on that bolt- it would be a long and unfun process.
I lifted mine up- rather than down.
And the boot- does that mean you have one now?
If so where did you get it from?
Cheers,
Hans.

[swifty]

Yeah mate i've got one now. Grab one from Don Kyatt Spare Parts - suppliers of 4WD four wheel drive replacement parts .Moorabin and Nth Melbourne i think, shouldn't cost much. There werre i get all my bits and pieces.
I think i have the opposite prob with the slave push rod though, mine has a gap between it and clutch.
Which side of Melb you at? I'm near Dandenong & I have a "spare" starter if you need a loan. love to grab a look at your 40 while were at it

[beejay42]

Swifty-
thanks for the link- I'll give them a call soon- you don't happen to know the part number do you?
I'm in Hawthorn, and you're welcome to drop past anytime you are nearby- it'd be great to have a fellow BJ42 owner have a look over mine pm on its way.
Thats a real generous offer for the starter- mine isn't even registered yet so its really no problem for me to wait for this one to get re-done- so long as it doesn't take too long.
I've gotta get the windscreen done, get a gear fab'd up for the drivers side window winder (that has stripped), get a dash switch and wire up the window washer tub I have just put in- and depending on how fussy the RWC people are- possibly get the heater and blower installed and working(for de-mist)(I've got the blower and heater/heater core cleaned out and repainted but no plastic plumbing pipes for the air- and have to figure out the coolant plumbing)... and whatever else they tell me to do...
so there is plenty of time for the starter to get rebuilt.

Cheers, Hans.

[crushers]

use a pry bar instead of a rope.
the rod and the arm shoud just kiss when
bleeding does no good since the fluid is free flowing back into the master cylinder.

[swifty]

Try 31126-36030 for the rubber boot.

[hes21]

Originally Posted by beejay42

get a gear fab'd up for the drivers side window winder (that has stripped), get a dash switch and wire up the window washer tub I have just put in

Can't you wire the window washer tub to the existing switch like the original was?

Post a pick of what you need for the window winder (I'm wrecking a BJ40 now). Might even be able to hand deliver to Hawthorn (grew up there - and have a craving for Mario's coffee just about every week).

Hamish

[beejay42]

Thanks Swifty-
I'll let you know how I go.

Cheers Hamish-
you are right of course- I should be able to connect up the washer to the old switch.
One odd thing (or another odd thing) with my truck is that two of my dash controls are for the wipers. The normal one pulls out for a slow speed, a faster speed, and has the capacity to turn for spray- then I have the fan control that pulls out- and it turns on the wipers for the delay intermitant-wipe (where you can hear the timer motor going).
I am pretty sure the actual wiper control only has two positions- so I might have to loose the intermitant wipe (no biggy really as the other two speeds are slow enough).


Heres some pictures of the window winder I need-
It is from an older door- some have said 75'?
this is the inside of the passenger door- though I need the drivers side one-



heres starting to pull it apart for the problem






Essentially I only need the little cog- but now that I have pulled it apart I am not too sure how easy it will be to make- so I may have to look at getting a whole unit.

Let me know if you have the same winder-
Cheers,
Hans.

P.S. Marios coffee? in Hawthorn? We have yet to find anywhere for good coffee in Hawthorn- haven't heard of a Marios in Hawthorn.

[crushers]

i love them old girls and it looks to be in pretty good shape...care to post up some pics of the whole truck?

[hes21]

Marios: Glenferrie Rd under the railway. THey are stronger than most places by default so you might need to start off asking for weak ones. I went there everyday for about 8 years while I lived in Kew and Hawthorn.

Those doors do look old. I doubt my 79 doors will have any similar mechanics, but I'll have a look.

Cheers,
Hamish

[beejay42]

Thanks Hamish- that would be great- let me know.
And I will be sure to try that coffee.

And Crushers-
theres quite a few photos on this thread
http://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series...australia.html
most on the second page- more coming up when I have a bit more time.

Oh- and just heard I can go and pick up my starter motor tomorrow morning.