Trouble Starting BJ40

[albert rodrigues]

Hi All
This is my first post. I just purchased a 79 BJ40 from someone in California who had it shipped from El Salvador. As soon as it arrived from El Salvadore I bought it and had it shipped to NJ. Fresh off the trailer, I drove it about 30 miles and it ran well. There did appeared to be excessive black smoke the entire trip. I parked the vehicle after the trip and spent the weekend changing the oil, oil filter, a few hard brake lines and replaced all the brake fluid. After the simple tune up, I was unable to start the vehicle. I can get it to crank and with starter fluid was able to get it to run for a few minutes but that was it. I am pretty sure the battery is no good since I had been charging it the whole time during the tune up. I am not sure what the status of the alternator is either. Electrical system seems to be pretty well hacked. It has one battery and am not sure if it is 24V or if it was converted at some stage in its life.

Can anyone recommend a comprehensive service manual? I am specifically looking for the was to test if the fuel system is working properly and the proper setting for some of the adjustment valves and screws.

thanks

[ampeirce]

do not use starter fluid!!! check the fuel shut off (on injection pump ) is it stuck in off position ? (forward)

[roscoFJ73]

Originally Posted by albert rodrigues

Hi All
This is my first post. I just purchased a 79 BJ40 from someone in California who had it shipped from El Salvador. As soon as it arrived from El Salvadore I bought it and had it shipped to NJ. Fresh off the trailer, I drove it about 30 miles and it ran well. There did appeared to be excessive black smoke the entire trip. I parked the vehicle after the trip and spent the weekend changing the oil, oil filter, a few hard brake lines and replaced all the brake fluid. After the simple tune up, I was unable to start the vehicle. I can get it to crank and with starter fluid was able to get it to run for a few minutes but that was it. I am pretty sure the battery is no good since I had been charging it the whole time during the tune up. I am not sure what the status of the alternator is either. Electrical system seems to be pretty well hacked. It has one battery and am not sure if it is 24V or if it was converted at some stage in its life.

Can anyone recommend a comprehensive service manual? I am specifically looking for the was to test if the fuel system is working properly and the proper setting for some of the adjustment valves and screws.

thanks

See the online manuls in the stickys at the top of the forum.

Any fuel leaks,especially around the fuel primer pump? If so you probably have air in the system.
It probably needs the injectors rebuilt also but you could check the air filter. If clogged they can cause black smoke.

Leave the settings on the fuel pump till everything else in the manual checks out.

I dont think the 24 v engines will run with a single 12v battery so you proably have a 12 v model which is for warmer climes

And welcome to the forum

[albert rodrigues]

Thanks for the quick response. I have slowly been downloading the manuals and will review them this week. I need to learn the lingo regarding the fuel system and will check things out slowly. I did look at the air filter and it looked to be pretty clean.

Thanks again!

[roscoFJ73]

Originally Posted by albert rodrigues

Thanks for the quick response. I have slowly been downloading the manuals and will review them this week. I need to learn the lingo regarding the fuel system and will check things out slowly. I did look at the air filter and it looked to be pretty clean.

Thanks again!

Thats ok ,stay in touch and tell us how it goes

[AVLFRK]

There are a few manuals - there is a good 2b engine manual, which I believe I had gotten from the IH8mud page, and then there is a BJ4#, 55, etc diesel manual. If you do a search on Amazon, you will find it - that is where I got mine for like $12.

As far as servicing your engine, the PDF version of the 2b shop manual will be the best that I have seen.

My 79 BJ-41 is from Japan, and, by looking at multiple posts, it seems like most BJ's are 24v system - there should be a battery on either side of the motor.

I have the same issue with an alternator, very difficult to find one - I spent most of today looking without much result. There are no new replacements that I found except for a few companies in taiwan - which I have not looked into. There may be some used sources or some in canada - where the BJ was imported to. I have also heard that you can get the alternater rebuilt locally if you look hard.

Hope this helps - sounds like we have some of the same issues...

[albert rodrigues]

I was able to download a few of the manuals and think I have identified the problem. Prior to making the 30mile trip, I stoped to refuel the extremely empty tank. The manual suggests air in the system. I think that may be it since the engine sounded like it was not getting any fuel. I had a similar problem on an old backhoe and we had to bleed the sytem to get it to start. I'll follow the manual this weekend and let you all know how I made out. I'm sure I will need some more advice moving forward and am glad for the help.
ar

[AVLFRK]

Did you find a copy of the 2b manual - send me a personal message with your email, and I can send it to you. Just click on my user name in the post and send me a message..

[roscoFJ73]

Originally Posted by AVLFRK

Did you find a copy of the 2b manual - send me a personal message with your email, and I can send it to you. Just click on my user name in the post and send me a message..

I think the 2B manual is included in the 3B manual and also the direct injection engines such as the 11B 12B,13b and 13BT

[albert rodrigues]

Ok,

I have not been able to start the BJ again even after bleeding the system thoroughly from the inline pump to the injectors as the manual shows. I am not sure if my method is perfect. To test my results I have removed the fuel filter and emptied it completely. Next I reinstalled the filter and opened the bleeder screw. After using the primer pump a few times the filter was completely full. I have moved on to examining the glow plugs and of course, there are more questions and confusion considering I drove the car about 30 miles before I could no longer start the vehicle. Can anyone suggest the following:

-How to confirm if my vehicle has always been 12V. There is no evidence of another battery tray on the passenger side. All lights seems to work properly. The only noticibly dim light is one for the gauges at night
-Proper glow plugs to use, notice one of the plugs does not match the others.
-Function of the small dash mounted screen to the left of the steering column ( glow plug indicator?)
-Can my fuel filler cap be part of the cause?
-how to check if the DAC is operating properly

Any help is greatly appreciated.


I am including pictures in this post and am open to any suggestions.

[lostmarbles]

Originally Posted by albert rodrigues

-How to confirm if my vehicle has always been 12V. ...

Hi Albert Don't be alarmed at it being 12V. In fact all diesel cruisers of that era sent to this part of the world were 12V.

Proper glow plugs to use, notice one of the plugs does not match the others.....

Since one is mismatched I'd replace them all. Do a search (Internet) on "glow plugs B diesel". Places like Roodogs in Australia sell them cheap and they are readily available elsewhere too.

-Function of the small dash mounted screen to the left of the steering column ( glow plug indicator?)......

That should glow to show you when your glow plugs are glowing. My 12V B diesel takes about 20 seconds of glowing before it is ready to be cranked. (When the engine is cold.) At the end of that time, the coil of wire inside the dash-mounted indicator is glowing bright orange.I'd get the glow system working before chasing other possibilities. (Because it looks like you've got the fuel bleeding done OK.)

Cheers-Tom


PS. You have bled the air at the injector pump too? And it is also a good idea after that to bleed at each injector while someone is cranking it!

[amaurer]

Originally Posted by lostmarbles

That should glow to show you when your glow plugs are glowing.My 12V B diesel takes about 20 seconds of glowing before it is ready to be cranked. (When the engine is cold.) At the end of that time, the coil of wire inside the dash-mounted indicator is glowing bright orange.I'd get the glow system working before chasing other possibilities.

x2.

Start by measuring the voltage across your plugs. You're looking for ~10V from the end of the plug to ground when the plugs are energized.

As for the indicator, I thought mine initially didn't work but I've learned that they really can't break: all of your glow plug current flows through there! If its not glowing, cup your hand and get close, its never bright even when working properly. If still nothing, take the indicator out, open it up and clean the coil off; mine had so much dust on it that you couldn't see it glow. If it still won't glow, then you have a problem with your glow plugs, probably a bad ground (and you should have failed the voltage test mentioned above).

[VTCruiser]

Did you bleed the injectors? I have no experience with B engines, but if my 1HZ won't crank after it has been sitting for a while, bleeding the injectors get it running every time. here's what i do:

• Crack the fuel lines at each injector
• have a friend turn the starter until diesel sprays out each fitting
• re-tighten each fuel line
• crank the engine

you might give it a shot and see.

[roscoFJ73]

Originally Posted by albert rodrigues

Ok,

I have not been able to start the BJ again even after bleeding the system thoroughly from the inline pump to the injectors as the manual shows. I am not sure if my method is perfect. To test my results I have removed the fuel filter and emptied it completely. Next I reinstalled the filter and opened the bleeder screw. After using the primer pump a few times the filter was completely full. I have moved on to examining the glow plugs and of course, there are more questions and confusion considering I drove the car about 30 miles before I could no longer start the vehicle. Can anyone suggest the following:

-How to confirm if my vehicle has always been 12V. There is no evidence of another battery tray on the passenger side. All lights seems to work properly. The only noticibly dim light is one for the gauges at night
-Proper glow plugs to use, notice one of the plugs does not match the others.
-Function of the small dash mounted screen to the left of the steering column ( glow plug indicator?)
-Can my fuel filler cap be part of the cause?
-how to check if the DAC is operating properly

Any help is greatly appreciated.


I am including pictures in this post and am open to any suggestions.

Most likely air in the injector lines and pump.
Ebay is a good place for glow plugs. A lot of us use HKT brand or NGK as they are much cheaper and easier to get than Denso. As long as a plug is the same length and voltage it probably wont hurt but its best if they are replaced as a set.
A lot of us deal with this seller TOYOTA LANDCRUISER 3B ENGINE GLOW PLUG SET (4) - eBay, Other Car Parts, Accessories, Car Parts, Accessories, Cars, Bikes, Boats. (end time 26-Apr-08 18:33:32 AEST)

The 12 volt is easier to trouble shoot for most owners.

Fuel filler cap is easy to check by removing it,but I doubt it is the problem.

[albert rodrigues]

thanks for all the great suggestions! I will give them all a try and provide feedback.

Just two more questions
1 - Regarding the spring connected to the DAC, reference second picture. It has obviously been modified from the factory mounting position nearest the firewall. Dose anyone have a diagram showing how the spring should be connected?
2- is the B fuel filter the same as the 3B. I now have a ph2835 luber finer? Anyone know the fram or Napa replacement? The part numbers post was not so clear to me.

[lostmarbles]

Originally Posted by albert rodrigues

... Regarding the spring connected to the DAC, reference second picture. It has obviously been modified from the factory mounting position nearest the firewall. Dose anyone have a diagram showing how the spring should be connected?....

Sorry. Mine never came with a DAC so I can't help you.

.....Is the B fuel filter the same as the 3B. I now have a ph2835 luber finer? Anyone know the fram or Napa replacement? The part numbers post was not so clear to me.

Yes. (To the best of my knowledge.)

Fram P4178 or Ryco Z169 are what I use. (Also Ryco Z127, Z169A, or Z321 - but Z321 is extra high/deep)

Except you may have very limited clearance with the radiator hose directly below the filter. If so - You're best to remove the old one and take it to a supplier to compare the depth of the replacement.

Those short ones are both hard to find and expensive. (Which is why I moved my whole filter assembly from the engine to the side of the battery support where it now accepts the more-readily-available/cheaper cartridges.

AFAIK the 3B engine used the same filter holder but it didn't have the same limited clearance underneath. (Of course you can shim the holder higher using longer bolts and spacer washers but that is too "mickey mouse" for me.)

[albert rodrigues]

Thanks Tom for the info! I'll check out those part numbers here in the states.

[maddad]

Before replacing the glow plugs, have you checked if they are good? To check them remove the energizing wire from the glow plug and set it aside. Take a continuity meter and see if you have continuity from where the energizing wire connects to the glow plug to ground. If you do the glow plug is good. If not it is bad. I would definitely bleed the injectors before I did anything else.

[freebie]

Have you checked the position of the fule control relay?? Look at it with the key off, then turn the key on it should move back? and during the cranking cycle it will be in the overinject position. Or try pulling off the control arm and see what happens?

[_Walker_]

x2 on that, Iv never worked on a 2B before but on the 3B the EDIC or DAC in this case should move when you turn the key from off to acc to start etc... Also on the 3B when you disconnect the EDIC motor the selector arm on the injector pump is internally spring loaded to go to the "run" position. So if you have an electrical problem you can still get it running (with a bit more cranking if its cold RE no over injection.) Then to stop it either manually move the arm back or pop the clutch. Anyway good luck!

[albert rodrigues]

My 40 does not have EDIC only DAC (Diesel Altitude Control?) The DAC is directly connected to a cable used to shut the engine off. The spring on the DAC is not in the factory position and I would like to know if this could also be causing a problem.

I did bleed the injectors following the manual from the online manual link. I bled them both with the pump and with someone at the crank.

Ill check the glow plugs for continuity, I will purchase a hand held tester and will do that before buying new glow plugs. I have a download that states I should have .72 ohms at 68 degrees. Is using an ohm meter the only way to test them?

thanks again

[roscoFJ73]

Originally Posted by albert rodrigues

My 40 does not have EDIC only DAC (Diesel Altitude Control?) The DAC is directly connected to a cable used to shut the engine off. The spring on the DAC is not in the factory position and I would like to know if this could also be causing a problem.

I think you mean HAC ,high altitude compensator. If the stop lever is the problem ,you should be able to hold it back and start the engine.


You can ascertain there is fuel going into the combustion chamber by removing all the glow plugs. When you crank it you should see little puffs of fuel coming out the glow plug holes.
If you do ,it should fire with some glow plug heat

[_Walker_]

Definitely if the DAC arm isn't in the right spot nothing you do to the fuel system/glow system is going to mean a thing.... before getting really into other avenues, I would pop the spring off and try starting it in different positions. It may just be a 3 1/2 minute fix...

[albert rodrigues]

the vehicle was running with the arm in this position. How sensitive is the location of the arm? Is there a neutral position for starting? should the arm be placing more pressure forward towards the firewall or vise versa?

[freebie]

You mentioned earlier, there was lots of black smoke? maybe the arm is being held far enough out of position to not let the engine start. Also the spring may have been added to correct a faulty diafragm?
I just had alook at the FSM and mine shows an EDIC motor controlling the fuel!
Did this model come with a factory manual cable??
Anybody?

[roscoFJ73]

Originally Posted by freebie

You mentioned earlier, there was lots of black smoke? maybe the arm is being held far enough out of position to not let the engine start. Also the spring may have been added to correct a faulty diafragm?
I just had alook at the FSM and mine shows an EDIC motor controlling the fuel!
Did this model come with a factory manual cable??
Anybody?

There were EDIC and non EDIC models

[amaurer]

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