quick garrett turbo question... opinions

[Otterav]

hey,
Its most likely the radiator. When Toyota designed the car they sized the components to work with each other. You added a turbocharger, which increased the exhaust back pressure as well as increased the power output. Both of these things increased the heat in the engine. Your cruiser was designed for the 3B at its original power output, the turbo and operating your cruiser in central america , gasp near the equator. You have 2 choices 1) reduce the heat load in the cruiser(lower the power, ie. remove the turbo) 2) increase heat rejection rate(more cooling capacity)(assuming your cooling system is operating correctly). My FJ/BJ mutation had the same heating issue and adding a triple pass, optima radiator solved the over heating issue.
Hola
eric
P.S. I turned my fuel screw out 3 1/2 turns and am pushing 15-18 psi.(even if Dougal says I can't)

[Dougal]

Originally Posted by Otterav

P.S. I turned my fuel screw out 3 1/2 turns and am pushing 15-18 psi.(even if Dougal says I can't)

It's interesting that other users of the Supra on the 3B don't reach 15psi boost till about 3000rpm (which you'd expect).
Yet with a very similar setup you're claiming the same 15psi boost arrives at 1900rpm.
IH8MUD.com Forum - FJ to BJ mutation?

Originally Posted by big blue 84bj60

hey i just put a toyota supra(3L gasser engine) turbo on my 3b bought a 13bt manifold from gscruiserparts.com so the turbo would bolt right in. It is awsome i get 5lbs boost at 1200rpm 10lbs boost at 2000 and at 3000 waste gate opens at 15lbs boost

IH8MUD.com Forum - school me in turbo tech for the 3b

How do you explain a difference this large?

[joshoisasleep]

Otterav that's encouraging. Do you have a pyro and if so what were your EGT numbers like?

Totally unrelated but kind of weird, a guy from your town just came up and started talking to me randomly here in Peru as you must have been typing that...


Hey another kind of quirk with my setup. When I'm warming up my truck there is a sort of "hump" in coolant temps where for a few seconds it raises up to about halfway on the gauge and then goes right back down to cool operating temp. It does this idling without any strain put on the engine... weird?

[gettocruiser]

sounds like your thermostat opening upon reaching temp. may be it's sticking closed?
good luck.

[joshoisasleep]

Hmmm could be but it's about a 1.5 month old thermostat that didn't appear to do this before the turbo install. I wonder if it's something along the lines of the turbo getting a little toasty right before the oil gets warmer and then the oil starts moving better and cools the turbo back down....?? As usual grasping at straws...

[cruiser_guy]

Originally Posted by Otterav

hey,
Its most likely the radiator. When Toyota designed the car they sized the components to work with each other. You added a turbocharger, which increased the exhaust back pressure as well as increased the power output. Both of these things increased the heat in the engine. Your cruiser was designed for the 3B at its original power output, the turbo and operating your cruiser in central america , gasp near the equator. You have 2 choices 1) reduce the heat load in the cruiser(lower the power, ie. remove the turbo) 2) increase heat rejection rate(more cooling capacity)(assuming your cooling system is operating correctly).

I have a BJ60 with a turbo (with water cooling), A/C and the OEM 4 core rad. My A/C is on almost all the time. I have no issues with overheating and I'm also way down south here in Guatemala City. If there is overheating issues I would look at cooling system problems. The factory 4 core rad is quite sufficient for the A/C and turbo. If you have a three core rad then I'd suggest swapping it out for a 4 core which is what Toyota did to these trucks when they added A/C.

[joshoisasleep]

Yeah but I think if I recall correctly that because my engine's an 81 my rad hose comes out from the other side (to the left looking at the truck) and I'd have to change my t-stat housing to put a newer rad on?? (At least a landcruiser one)

In any case I should flush the coolant I guess and replace it. Is there any special tricks or advice to cleaning out the cooling system? All my stuff is old and was never "restored" during the engine swap like most people do.

[cruiser_guy]

Originally Posted by joshoisasleep

Yeah but I think if I recall correctly that because my engine's an 81 my rad hose comes out from the other side (to the left looking at the truck) and I'd have to change my t-stat housing to put a newer rad on?? (At least a landcruiser one)

In any case I should flush the coolant I guess and replace it. Is there any special tricks or advice to cleaning out the cooling system? All my stuff is old and was never "restored" during the engine swap like most people do.

Is your rad the original 3 core rad or is it a 4 core from an FJ62? You can tell by removing the rad cap and counting the cores you can see. Alternatively, a 4 core rad fills the space on the tanks and a three core rad has a little room left on the rear edge of the tanks.

If you have a 3 core you should upgrade to a 4 core or have yours recored to a 4 core. The 3 core is not sufficient if you have A/C and when you add more to it it gets even worse.

[wesintl]

Originally Posted by Dougal

How do you explain a difference this large?

The fuel setting... I can boost 25+ and see #'s that are greater than his with a T3. I can also see almost nothing with the fuel way back. I played with my fuel til I got what I feel is optimal at about 15psi.

[Dougal]

Originally Posted by wesintl

The fuel setting... I can boost 25+ and see #'s that are greater than his with a T3. I can also see almost nothing with the fuel way back. I played with my fuel til I got what I feel is optimal at about 15psi.

It does make a difference I agree, but you can't use fuel to "wake up" a turbo that large without getting into dangerous EGT levels.

Maybe he is on the way to a meltdown and doesn't know it.

[joshoisasleep]

OK this is really sweet. He didn't have gauges that matched my temp range so he's sort of making one up for me. He said he can do me a dual instrument that will display EGT on one side and air inlet temp on the other side... very cool!

What temperature range is best? 500 degree F range. My guess was going to be 800F - 1300F on the EGTs, and 0-500F on the air in.

What do you think?

[cruiser_guy]

Originally Posted by joshoisasleep

OK this is really sweet. He didn't have gauges that matched my temp range so he's sort of making one up for me. He said he can do me a dual instrument that will display EGT on one side and air inlet temp on the other side... very cool!

What temperature range is best? 500 degree F range. My guess was going to be 800F - 1300F on the EGTs, and 0-500F on the air in.

What do you think?

My Isspro pyrometer has a range from 100 - 1500 F. For air in, post compressor, I'd think no more than 300 F, more than that and an intercooler would be really useful.

[joshoisasleep]

wow I hope you never use the full range of that Pyro... my understanding was that at 1350 you've melted something already...? Hmmm I've got to choose within a 500 degree range...

[wesintl]

500 is too broad on temp. 240 or 250 max is what you want so you can see the temps swings better. My pyro is 0-1600. which is a good range. 1500 is fine too.

[joshoisasleep]

Originally Posted by wesintl

500 is too broad on temp. 240 or 250 max is what you want so you can see the temps swings better. My pyro is 0-1600. which is a good range. 1500 is fine too.

I'm really confused. You say 500 is too broad, and yet 1500 is good? I'm assuming there's something I don't know about gauges here...

[Dougal]

In metric you want 200-800 deg C.
That works out to 400-1500F.

200C is a safe shutdown temp, 750C is the highest you ever want to see.

[wesintl]

Originally Posted by joshoisasleep

I'm really confused. You say 500 is too broad, and yet 1500 is good? I'm assuming there's something I don't know about gauges here...

up to 250f for water temp. 0-1500f for pyro

[joshoisasleep]

Damn, I think that puts me back at square one since he said 500 degree temp range... good for the intake but not the EGTs. That sucks cause I was really stoked on the awesome dual-instrument! What do you guys think of the technique below?

One thing you could do is convert the milivolt output from the thermocouple with a multimeter and then convert it to temp from a conversion chart. Yeah, a multimeter duct taped to your dashboard!

[jzilla]

I have an 81 BJ60, I had mine recored.
Definitely get a 4 row rad if you can.

[Otterav]

Originally Posted by Dougal

It's interesting that other users of the Supra on the 3B don't reach 15psi boost till about 3000rpm (which you'd expect).
Yet with a very similar setup you're claiming the same 15psi boost arrives at 1900rpm.
IH8MUD.com Forum - FJ to BJ mutation?



IH8MUD.com Forum - school me in turbo tech for the 3b

I don't know what you would expect, other than being wrong more often than not. I am not "claiming" anything just stating fact, as evidenced by two other mud members.

How do you explain a difference this large?

Once again, I had those same numbers until I adjusted my fuel settings. Everyone has their own settings that they prefer, I guess it's hard being wrong, get over it!
eric

[BillyGHusk]

here we go again......

[gerg]

Otterav, what kind of Exhaust Gas temperatures are you seeing at those RPMs... 1200, 1500, 1800 etc? Like if your climbing a hill in 4th and are stuck with slow acceleration. I could see how you can get great boost at lower rpms, I would only worry about Temps.
Later
G

[Otterav]

Originally Posted by gerg

Otterav, what kind of Exhaust Gas temperatures are you seeing at those RPMs... 1200, 1500, 1800 etc? Like if your climbing a hill in 4th and are stuck with slow acceleration. I could see how you can get great boost at lower rpms, I would only worry about Temps.
Later
G

Hello,
I limit my EGTs to 1100F post turbo, and only for transients(few seconds), if the EGTs are climbing I use the gearbox and skinny pedal to regulate the EGTs to my 900F or so, increasing RPMs cure EGTs quickly and effectively. I have come to the realization that this is not a 3208 Cat w/500 HP. and drive with that in mind.
Hola
eric

[BillyGHusk]

Originally Posted by Otterav

Hello,
I limit my EGTs to 1100F post turbo, and only for transients(few seconds),

Do you have any idea/thought what they are pre turbo? How far is the probe "post turbo"?

Just curios, trying to learn.....

Tim

[Otterav]

Originally Posted by BillyGHusk

Do you have any idea/thought what they are pre turbo? How far is the probe "post turbo"?

Just curios, trying to learn.....

Tim

Hey,
I was talking to Banks Engineering, back when I was turboing(in the early 90's) my 2 1/2 ton military truck, they estimate that the average drop across a average turbo was 250F. My probe is about 1" from the turbine wheel face.
Hola
eric