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Old 04-16-08, 11:33 AM   #61
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joshoisasleep View Post
OK I did the hose clamp thing yesterday and no more problems with the hoses blowing off. I am in a port city now so on Tapage's suggestion I will look for a marine supply store and see if I can find a pyro that way.

Mainly when the engine heats up going uphill I have just been turning off the air conditioning and that usually brings the needle back down... haven't seen it go above halfway on the white part. Will also look for a better coolant temp gauge.
Yes, the A/C will cause coolant temps to climb. Mine only does that in Arizona at 110F outside when pulling hills. The water temp gauge is, and always will be, a poor way to watch EGT's. The EGT's would have to be VERY high and the ambient would also have to be high before the EGT's would affect the water temperature.

If your temperature guage is working well I see no need to change it.

Were you able to find the GOOD hose clamps or just the cheapo screw type?


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Old 04-16-08, 04:06 PM   #62
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Originally Posted by joshoisasleep View Post
Tapage what do you call a pyrometer in Spanish? I had it but I forgot...
Wouuu .. ahora si me la pusiste complicada !

I thought the oficial translation in spanish is " Pirometro " but I'm not sure if you as for one the people know what are you taliking about ..

Other option that come to my mind are the Heavy Truck Store .. Caterpilar, John Deree or so .. maybe they have or at least know where you need to look.

Also if you found a racing shop .. ( not those pimp shop that only know about sound and music .. ) maybe they also can help you ..


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if you aren't denting and bending stuff, you just aren't wheeling hard enough
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Old 04-19-08, 06:23 PM   #63
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I thought the oficial translation in spanish is " Pirometro " but I'm not sure if you as for one the people know what are you taliking about ..
That's what I thought! I went to a marine supply store in Manta and he seemed to know what I was talking about, but didn't have any. I'm now in Guyaquil which is a huge port city... probably my best bet in Ecuador

As far as the

Quote:
Originally Posted by cruiser_guy
Yes, the A/C will cause coolant temps to climb. Mine only does that in Arizona at 110F outside when pulling hills. The water temp gauge is, and always will be, a poor way to watch EGT's. The EGT's would have to be VERY high and the ambient would also have to be high before the EGT's would affect the water temperature.

If your temperature guage is working well I see no need to change it.

Were you able to find the GOOD hose clamps or just the cheapo screw type?
Yeah ambient temp is quite high... I'm very close to the Equator and at sea level... was driving during the hottest part of the day today and things got toasty... towards mid afternoon I can pretty much just run the AC constantly and not worry. I only really need to worry when pulling hills in fifth in the hottest part of the day... the only real problem is that on the highway that's quite a lot of our driving!

Only got the screw type hose clamps but my boost is not high and they seem to hold it secure no problem. Have the heavy duty ones elsewhere so I know what you mean.

I only meant to add an aux coolant temp gauge that has numbers... because when other people quote temp numbers all I can say is "well it's about this far up the white part..."


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Old 04-19-08, 06:29 PM   #64
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Also, it may be my imagination but the turbo seems to be noticeably more effective when the engine is running cooler. Oh well, I may have a good shot for "we need an intercooler", thanks to having to turn the AC off...


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Old 04-21-08, 03:36 PM   #65
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The engines runns far better when it's fresh and fresh around .. ( enviroment ) more heat in your engine, more heat in the engine room, more heat in your compresor .. means less Oxigen available.


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Quote:
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if you aren't denting and bending stuff, you just aren't wheeling hard enough
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Old 04-25-08, 05:19 PM   #66
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What sort of difference does the size of the air cleaner make to the turbo set up? They put in one that looks smaller in place of my old one. Would it maybe be a good idea to install a second one on the other side of the engine compartment where I have more room?

For some reason (complete coincidence? Landcruiser gods?) my exhaust pipe blew itself apart just under the passenger door. There is noticeable improvement above 2500rpms... I'm sure this is not my imagination. Since it's busted anyway, I think I'm definitely going for the larger one tomorrow.


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Old 04-25-08, 05:58 PM   #67
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You don't want backpressure with a turbo engine .. more exhaust flow, more faster your turbo will spool ..


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Quote:
Originally Posted by pygpen
if you aren't denting and bending stuff, you just aren't wheeling hard enough
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Old 04-26-08, 03:41 PM   #68
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Originally Posted by joshoisasleep View Post
What sort of difference does the size of the air cleaner make to the turbo set up? They put in one that looks smaller in place of my old one. Would it maybe be a good idea to install a second one on the other side of the engine compartment where I have more room?
Get a vacuum indicator (many truck and industrial engine air cleaners have them), they lock on to show the biggest vacuum your engine pulls on the intake.
If it reads excessively high (usually a red zone on the scale) then you've probably got a blocked filter or restriction somewhere.

Most 4wd aircleaners are massively oversized for dust capacity. You won't starve your engine of air with a smaller one until it's got a shovel full of sand in it.


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Old 04-26-08, 04:30 PM   #69
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Most 4wd aircleaners are massively oversized for dust capacity. You won't starve your engine of air with a smaller one until it's got a shovel full of sand in it.
Uh that's actually likely in my case. And the new one is a little square thing meant for some kind of Hyundai I think, in place of my big round one.


Did the exhaust today! I now have a 2.5" straight pipe ending just before my rear tire, in place of the stock skinny one that bent down, back, across and over my drive shaft, through the muffler and finally up and over the rear shock. The engine seems really happy with me. I'm hoping for lower coolant temps (and also to find that pyro!!!). It's a little louder, and in retrospect I should have let the guy install the high flow sound dampener thingy he wanted to put on... I passed on it in my insane lust for flow!

Pics to come...


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Old 04-28-08, 04:59 PM   #70
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Did you already check your fan clutch for correct function ?


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Quote:
Originally Posted by pygpen
if you aren't denting and bending stuff, you just aren't wheeling hard enough
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Old 04-28-08, 07:00 PM   #71
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is there a simple way to do that?

No slop in the fan to clutch and when the engine is cold you should have a little less drag than when the engine is hot.


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Old 04-29-08, 03:12 PM   #72
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is there a simple way to do that?

No slop in the fan to clutch and when the engine is cold you should have a little less drag than when the engine is hot.
Easy method .. and warning, maybe not the more safe method, but it function for me.

When the engine running @ operative temp, get a hard cardboard ( shipping box ? ) and try to stop the fan ( engine running ) if your Fan clutch it's in great shape you could not stop it.


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Quote:
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if you aren't denting and bending stuff, you just aren't wheeling hard enough
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Old 05-02-08, 10:22 PM   #73
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cardboard was destroyed quickly with no apparent fan slowing. I'm starting to think that the turbo installed may just be too small and that's why it's heating up at higher output.

This thought is frustrating especially in my situation, but in spite of what research I have done, I really have no one to blame but myself. I know some of you must be shaking your heads at my seat of pants approach to things like this. Even though I have a warranty for everything that was done, backtracking several days to try and convince "experts" of what I think (which is going to cost them money) sounds unlikely.
I'm considering the idea of trying to find a larger used turbo... I don't know. Using the skinny pedal in fifth sees raising coolant temps most times of the day here, and that's no fun. I'm already running 4.11s with an H55F so cruising speed is already low (fortunately it's usually about the speed of the traffic. Maybe insulating the intake pipe or attempting to find and add an intercooler will help?

Maybe I should just blow up my truck... (don't worry it wouldn't be a scam, I don't even have insurance! )


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Old 05-03-08, 12:31 AM   #74
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A larger turbo won't help, but an intercooler probably will.

However, your better to find and cure the problem rather than just randomly change or add things.
First make sure the cooling system is functioning as toyota intended it to. Once you're sure of that, it could be as simple as more power = more heat, the same thing Tapage experiences.
In which case turning down the fuel will help.

But turning down the fuel will eventually solve any heating problem. Go low enough on the fuel and it wouldn't even need a coolant system.


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Old 05-03-08, 06:01 PM   #75
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Quote:
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A larger turbo won't help, but an intercooler probably will.

However, your better to find and cure the problem rather than just randomly change or add things.
First make sure the cooling system is functioning as toyota intended it to. Once you're sure of that, it could be as simple as more power = more heat, the same thing Tapage experiences.
In which case turning down the fuel will help.

But turning down the fuel will eventually solve any heating problem. Go low enough on the fuel and it wouldn't even need a coolant system.
Huh! I was under the impression that with a smaller turbo spinning faster there would be more heat? I mean you said yourself that if it was operating outside its best efficiency it would cause additional heat. Wouldn't a turbo that is too small be operating outside its best efficiency?

I guess my biggest frustration is my inability to find the gauges to properly even monitor what's going on... for all I know my EGT's are totally fine and it's only a coolant temperature issue I'm encountering!! I doubt that though unfortunately. I have a bit of high temp material I can use to insulate the exhaust tube where it goes closest to the intake... I'll see what happens with that at least. As far as an intercooler goes... well if that didn't solve the problem I'd still end up with an intercooler!


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Old 05-03-08, 06:08 PM   #76
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Huh! I was under the impression that with a smaller turbo spinning faster there would be more heat? I mean you said yourself that if it was operating outside its best efficiency it would cause additional heat. Wouldn't a turbo that is too small be operating outside its best efficiency?

I guess my biggest frustration is my inability to find the gauges to properly even monitor what's going on... for all I know my EGT's are totally fine and it's only a coolant temperature issue I'm encountering!! I doubt that though unfortunately. I have a bit of high temp material I can use to insulate the exhaust tube where it goes closest to the intake... I'll see what happens with that at least. As far as an intercooler goes... well if that didn't solve the problem I'd still end up with an intercooler!
That turbo should be about right for your engine. A bigger turbo would only make less heat because it won't be doing anything for a bigger percentage of the time.

It's possible that the extra boost is fooling your fuel pump into putting out much more fuel and power than you expect.
The cooling load is roughly linear with power. 50% more power and your cooling system has to shed 50% more heat.

Take it easy, get an EGT gauge and see what it reads.


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Old 05-03-08, 06:26 PM   #77
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That turbo should be about right for your engine. A bigger turbo would only make less heat because it won't be doing anything for a bigger percentage of the time.
it whines when idling...? Not much but a bit.

Quote:
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It's possible that the extra boost is fooling your fuel pump into putting out much more fuel and power than you expect.
I don't think that's it. It's more powerful than before but it's not immense. I know at least that it's got a LOT more in it than what I'm getting now, because when I had the problem with those little hoses on the IP popping off it got a ridiculous amount more power.

The best sign that I have of the EGT temps is when I occasionally hop out and put my hand next to the exhaust pipe where it is visible near the front tire. I think I've read on here of people seeing it glow... mine never seems all that hot even when coolant temps are high.

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get an EGT gauge and see what it reads.
I had my dad personally ship something to this country like 3 months ago and it just arrived... unless I can find a dealer I think I'm out of luck for at least 10 days of driving until I get to Bolivia.


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Old 05-04-08, 10:42 PM   #78
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OK just talked to a family friend who owns an aircraft instrumentation manufacturing company, and he very kindly offered to send me an EGT gauge for free (if sending is possible)!
He was talking about installing multiple probes one for each cylinder in addition to the main one, so that I could use them to monitor the individual cylinders and injectors. Has anyone done this?


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Old 05-04-08, 10:48 PM   #79
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OK just talked to a family friend who owns an aircraft instrumentation manufacturing company, and he very kindly offered to send me an EGT gauge for free (if sending is possible)!
He was talking about installing multiple probes one for each cylinder in addition to the main one, so that I could use them to monitor the individual cylinders and injectors. Has anyone done this?
Cool.
I've seen race cars with a probe on each exhaust port, but the expense means most people are happy just using one.


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Old 05-05-08, 06:55 AM   #80
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He was talking about installing multiple probes one for each cylinder in addition to the main one, so that I could use them to monitor the individual cylinders and injectors. Has anyone done this?
How deep do you want to get into this? I'd do one probe in the manifold and call it done.


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Old 05-05-08, 10:15 AM   #81
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How deep do you want to get into this? I'd do one probe in the manifold and call it done.
Well since he's such a nice guy it isn't going to cost me more money, so it's really just a matter of drilling holes right? Despite my apparent happy-go-lucky attitude towards engine mods, I'm a serious engine worrier and am constantly listening, stopping, opening the hood, worrying, etc. More instrumentation means less worrying!

However I'm not sure if the multiple probes is a go. He thinks there's not enough room in my manifold to position them from looking at photos.

here's some of his explanation to me about setting it up...
Quote:
Great place for a simple clamp style in the exhaust loop. To put one in each exhaust manifold pipe would be difficult since there is no place for one before it reaches the main exhaust manifold.

... The standard element length is 3/4" which about how much sticks into the exhaust stream.

... It would be cool to have a probe on each cylinder but no room in your setup to install them. I guess you could remove the manifold and tap or weld on a boss for each cylinder. Look at the screw in thermocouples we have on our website too. With the meter you would just add a switch box and then you can switch between cylinders...
Does the 3/4" sound fine? What does he mean by a "boss"? I think the single probe may be the way to go considering complication + South America != fun

These are the parts he's recommended
86255 EGT/TIT Thermocouple
46150 EGT Meter


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Old 05-05-08, 10:58 AM   #82
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If I were you I'd get a "bung/boss" or whatever you want to call it, welded onto the loop off your stock manifold going to the turbo and put your pyrometer sensor right there and call it good.

If I were going to use multiple sensors I would be measuring temperatures of the air entering the engine AFTER being compressed by the turbo before I'd be messing with individual cylinder readings. With your flipped manifold the individual readings would not be accurate anyways as you don't have a separate path from each cylinder to the turbo.


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Old 05-05-08, 11:15 AM   #83
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If I were you I'd get a "bung/boss" or whateve