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Old 04-22-08, 11:56 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mac View Post
Since when are published HP #'s theoretical? Do you think Toyota just pulls these #'s out of their ass based on how the truck feels ? This wasn't an attack on you personally Galt it was simply a stating of the facts.

My behind the wheel experience? Plenty of it. But it's not something I feel the need to prove to you.
I think it is that torque is really noticable moving these trucks around.
1HZ has 15 extra horsepower but 23 foot pounds less torque than the 13B-T.
I have spent a bit of time driving both as well and I will have to agree with John that the 13B-T is definately feels more lively.
But let's face it...Really not the best two motors to compare, if you gave a 1HZ the same advantantages the 13B-T has (Direct injection and Turbo) you get 165hp and 268 ftlbs and well...er.. a 1HD-T.
Each has it's pros and cons. Consider yourself very lucky if you have either one powering you Cruiser.

Back to the topic of the Thread.. Get the motor hot and see where the readings go. Make sure you have lots of Amperage to spin the starter and see about trying another gauge for a second opinion.
You could also see about getting a diesel shop do a cylinder leak down test and see if that supports what your tester is saying.
And like Craig says.. the fact that if fires up and runs means it's probably not as bad as the gauge is saying.


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Old 04-23-08, 09:28 PM   #32
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Originally Posted by joshoisasleep View Post
"engine restorer"? what is this stuff?
Restore Engine Restore

There's lots of opinions about this stuff all over the web. It's essentially a graphite additive that allegedly fills small scratches and voids in warn metal parts. I'm not convinced that it's responsible for my gains in compression but I figure it can't hurt.
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Old 04-24-08, 01:27 PM   #33
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first off, those numbers suck. that truck must run alike a dog with three legs...

secondly, a 13BT is a LOT more peppy than a NA 1HZ. torque is about the same. the 1HZ is by far my favorite engine and would recommend one to anyone considering a swap but really NEEDS a turbo to be driveable.

if you are happy with the way that truck drives then as long as the oil pressure is good then drive it but that is what kills these engines is low oil pressure.

i would suggest another compression test using a different gauge to confirm yours is working properly. i have bought gauges in the past that could read compression properly if you gave them glasses.

any 3B bleow 360 is ready for a rebuild in my books..

but then what do i know, i ain't no engineer...


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Old 04-24-08, 01:38 PM   #34
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...what kills these engines is low oil pressure.
What would you consider low? Looking at the stock gauge behaviour that is...


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Old 04-24-08, 05:34 PM   #35
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stock gauges are not worth the plastic/metal they are made from...

aftermarket only...
below 30 psi at cruising speeds would make me nervous...below 4 psi at idle as well


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Old 04-24-08, 05:59 PM   #36
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I went snooping around the internet about this Restore stuff, I was surprised how generally positive the reviews are. There is a lot of people who dismiss it out of hand (all snake oil is crap!) but overwhelmingly people who have actually used it are very convinced its good juju. I found a few other compression tests that improved like this one.

For clarity, I generally don't believe in additives, just reporting what I read.


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Old 04-25-08, 11:20 AM   #37
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Can anyone recommend a good quality, relatively inexpensive compression tester I can get to compare my numbers against?
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Old 04-27-08, 09:20 AM   #38
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I picked up a cylinder leakdown tester. That will help pinpoint if I have any serious problems.
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Old 05-21-08, 05:10 PM   #39
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BTW, I don't know about this restore stuff. I'm 3,200 miles into a trip to UT/CO. For the first 1,500 or so miles of mostly highway driving I was using about 1 quart of oil every 300 miles. I assume mostly due to blow-by based on what the underside of the vehicle looks like near the crankcase breather tube.

Since I was using so much oil I decided I'd put another 500ml can of engine restorer into it. My oil pressure dropped 8 psi at highway speeds. I got that stuff out of there ASAP and I'm back up to 30 - 32 psi at highway speeds.
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Old 05-29-08, 05:51 PM   #40
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Engine restorer is just what the man stated, it is an oil additive that supposely frees up loose rings and restores compression. I used it in an old mazda truck and sure enough there was less blue smoke from the engine. It may actually improve compression.
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Old 05-30-08, 06:22 PM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crushers View Post
below 30 psi at cruising speeds would make me nervous...below 4 psi at idle as well
Actually by the FSM 36 - 64 PSI @ 2000 rpm @normal operative temp.

If I saw my oil press gauge under 20 PSI @ idle and less than 40 PSI @ 2000 rpm and not happy ..


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if you aren't denting and bending stuff, you just aren't wheeling hard enough
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