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Old 12-30-07, 04:50 PM   #1
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Fuel Leak, 1991 HDJ81

From underneath the center of the picture below, I see fuel dripping when the engine is running. The drip is constant, so it is not something that has just been purged. It's so crowded in the area it's hard to see underneath to exactly where it is coming from, if anyone has seen this problem before and has any suggestions, it would be appreciated.
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Old 12-30-07, 05:07 PM   #2
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Try getting underneath with a flashlight and a piece of cloth. The light will pick up the shine of the fuel and use the cloth to wipe it down and see if it reappears.
There is a dozen places it could be leaking from.

Ill take a stab in the dark and say the o ring on the advanced cold start device(ACSD) or the plate on the opposite side has sprung a leak.
If it was from the top or bottom of the pump housing you would be able to see it


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Old 12-30-07, 05:09 PM   #3
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ACSD x2. Blank plate it and be done- unless you live the Arctic...


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Old 12-30-07, 07:06 PM   #4
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Thanks guys, that was fast!

Is the large nut in the center of the pic the top of the ACSD, or is that the pump? Anway, originally, I thought it was coming from there, but I see now it is dropping onto that from above. SO it is coming from the bottom of the assembly in the original picture by the looks of it, where I cannot see even when I crawl underneath. It would seem that I'll have to remove the whole assembly, but then the problem arises of course, where was the leak in the first place.





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Old 12-30-07, 10:05 PM   #5
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The injection pump is the whole thing in the 1st pic. The hex bolt its dripping onto looks like its the powersteering banjo bolt.

Have you checked under the fuel line where it leaves the fuel filter and where it enters the pump?
It enters the pump where the little red hat is on my pump.

This is diagram showing my poor photo skills and the location of 2 likely sources of fuel leaks.
You can see the o ring in the ACSD which often leaks.

The pic is showing the pump housing with a blanking plate after ACSD removal. This pump is a non turbo type and doesnt have a ACSD but it is not critical for the turbo version either. The ACSD is a anti pollution device designed to make it run a little cleaner during the warm up period.

Ignore the "adjust here" part,it was to show the positon of the aircon fast idle ajustment for someone else
Attached Images
  


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HZJ75 cab chassis 95 model ,stocker
FJ73+1HZ Diesel NEW GEARBOX
1HZ =same power as 3F with 30% better fuel economy
2in Dobinsons lift.Powerdown adj shocks
33 in BFG A/T
HJ61 with slidin windas regrettfully SOLD:(
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Last edited by roscoFJ73; 12-30-07 at 10:16 PM.
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Old 12-31-07, 10:01 AM   #6
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If one seal is gone then I suggest you get all the seals done with viton type seals. Part # 22176A on Rosco's daigram is the drive shaft seal. You have to pull the pump to do this seal. If you commit to pulling the pump, then you need to decide if you want a fuel shop to look at it for wear and rebuild it. Sorey but looks like you have been another victim of ULSD mixing with old rubber seals.
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Old 12-31-07, 05:09 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by canucksafari View Post
If one seal is gone then I suggest you get all the seals done with viton type seals. Part # 22176A on Rosco's daigram is the drive shaft seal. You have to pull the pump to do this seal. If you commit to pulling the pump, then you need to decide if you want a fuel shop to look at it for wear and rebuild it. Sorey but looks like you have been another victim of ULSD mixing with old rubber seals.

x2 Unless you can fix the o ring yourself,the shops usally want to do the whole seal and gaskit thing(cost me $450 for that at oz prices).
Gets pricey,there is about 4-5 major parts that wear and they cost $400+ ea + labour(I spent $1550 on that shiny one)


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HZJ75 cab chassis 95 model ,stocker
FJ73+1HZ Diesel NEW GEARBOX
1HZ =same power as 3F with 30% better fuel economy
2in Dobinsons lift.Powerdown adj shocks
33 in BFG A/T
HJ61 with slidin windas regrettfully SOLD:(
Volvo 740 GL
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Old 01-01-08, 04:16 AM   #8
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Where are you located?


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Old 01-02-08, 07:18 PM   #9
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I just had the same problem. I assume you are in Canada where you are driving a HDJ81. This is a pretty common problem with the Japanese imports and there really is not cheap way out. If you know what your doing you can fix the seal (probably the top seal) yourself, but in all honesty the other seals are likely shot too. There are a number of shops in Vancouver doing these rebuilds routinely and one in Calgary that is good. None in Edmonton. Once you pull the pump take the oppotunity to change the timing belt.

It sucks but your likely going to be into it for $1200. It's just fact. These pumps are the heart and soul of the truck. If your truck is in as good a condition as it looks from the photos under the hood, your best leaving it to a shop that has a bench that can time and pressure check it properly plus you'll get a 1 year warranty. A new pump runs about $3500-$4000 depending on where you live.....so think it over carefully and chose your shop carefully.


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Old 01-02-08, 09:51 PM   #10
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I just posted in the JDM Alliance section of the Int'l of MUD on the same topic. One of the importers discovered one of the older threads that named his business. Now he claim to be offering superior prep service as reason for higher prices. Really pisses me off that there are very few importers which claim great service packages but who are actually talking care of big price maintaince items like BEB, IP seals and Injectors. And as dweisger and I can tell you from experience, don't just take it to any bosch certified shop. Ask around for the best. Hopefully you have a warranty still in effect which covers this if you bought it off an importer.
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Old 01-08-08, 06:37 PM   #11
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Thanks for the info. For some reason I must have missed the email notifications so I didn't know there were any replies, that's why I'm so late getting back.

I'm nearest Calgary so it sounds like Pro Active is the place that most recommend.

Didn't realize it was going to be such an expensive job but at least now I am forewarned.

PS: I'm trying to find the radiator draincock so I can drain the coolant and after looking for the past hour I can't find it, can anyone point me in the right direction?

Regards, John

Last edited by TSellers; 01-08-08 at 07:00 PM.
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Old 01-08-08, 06:43 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TSellers View Post
Thanks for the info. For some reason I must have missed the email notifications so I didn't know there were any replies, that's why I'm so late getting back.

I'm nearest Calgary so it sounds like Pro Active is the place that most recommend.

Didn't realize it was going to be such an expensive job but at least now I am forewarned.
I would still try and diagnose the leak yourself. It maybe a $5 fix you can do yourself or by a friend.
Once the diesel shops get hold of it,everything adds up in multiples of $500


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HZJ75 cab chassis 95 model ,stocker
FJ73+1HZ Diesel NEW GEARBOX
1HZ =same power as 3F with 30% better fuel economy
2in Dobinsons lift.Powerdown adj shocks
33 in BFG A/T
HJ61 with slidin windas regrettfully SOLD:(
Volvo 740 GL

Last edited by roscoFJ73; 01-08-08 at 08:42 PM.
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Old 01-08-08, 07:08 PM   #13
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Thanks Rosco,

I agree. I do work with some mechanics who are allowed to use the facilities after hours if it is only for trade of services. I talked to one of them who said he would be willing to have a look but he was quick to point out to me, rightfully so it would seem, that there may not be anyone in our shop that is experienced enough with these diesels to do it. However we do have quite a few large diesel trucks, loaders, graders, etc., that they work on so can't be that bad can it? Or maybe it can!


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Old 01-08-08, 08:38 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TSellers View Post
Thanks Rosco,

I agree. I do work with some mechanics who are allowed to use the facilities after hours if it is only for trade of services. I talked to one of them who said he would be willing to have a look but he was quick to point out to me, rightfully so it would seem, that there may not be anyone in our shop that is experienced enough with these diesels to do it. However we do have quite a few large diesel trucks, loaders, graders, etc., that they work on so can't be that bad can it? Or maybe it can!
Ive seen large fuel pumps from heavy earth moving gear and they often look like larger versions of the rotary pump on your landcruiser.
There are, AFAIK, only 2 basic types of fuel injection pumps ,rotary and inline and they would all be fundamentally the same.

The removal of the ACSD and replacing the o ring and blanking plate is one job they could handle.
I havent done it(mine never had one) ,but some diesel owners have done it without any hiccups.
By all means let him have a look and give his opinion,at least it something to arm yourself with if you have to take it to a shop.
Knowing a few of the part names on a pump can make shops think twice about overcharging if they have to explain things in detail.

These pic shows the typical points of wear in a denso rotary pump. This is my pump and the shop stripped it down to show me and pointed out the things that were worn.
It was pretty rough as it had ingested salt water
Attached Images
  


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HZJ75 cab chassis 95 model ,stocker
FJ73+1HZ Diesel NEW GEARBOX
1HZ =same power as 3F with 30% better fuel economy
2in Dobinsons lift.Powerdown adj shocks
33 in BFG A/T
HJ61 with slidin windas regrettfully SOLD:(
Volvo 740 GL
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Old 01-08-08, 09:03 PM   #15
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Removal of the ACSD and fitting the blanking plate is something you can do yourself without removing the pump. I'd recommend you blank the ACSD (while changing the O-ring) and see it that stops the leak. If it's still leaking after that then take it to a pump guy and bring your wallet.


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Old 01-08-08, 09:07 PM   #16
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OK, I'll give it a shot, thanks.

Salt water! Take your digital camera to the diesel mechanic. Wow, probably an adventure to take a trip in the Outback with you!


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Old 01-09-08, 12:47 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by dweisger View Post
A new pump runs about $3500-$4000 depending on where you live.....so think it over carefully and chose your shop carefully.
I heard back from our contact in Japan. A recon from there is $925.00 with exchange. A new one is $2775.00. So if a parts supplier in North America is bringing them over your price estimate is pretty much on the mark. I guess it would be better to get them out of Japan if it comes down to that because shipping isn't going to cost you $725.00.


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Old 01-09-08, 11:13 PM   #18
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OK, I'll give it a shot, thanks.

Salt water! Take your digital camera to the diesel mechanic. Wow, probably an adventure to take a trip in the Outback with you!
Do a search for "acsd", there are a couple of threads where the procedure is explained. It's a bit of a PITA but not too bad.


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1990 HDJ81 w. OME, 35'', intercooler, safari snorkel, locked all-round, viair 450 onboard air, deer-killer bumpa + train horns, milemarker hydraulic

1991 PZJ-70 factory lockers and winch.
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Old 01-10-08, 07:42 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by canucksafari View Post
I just posted in the JDM Alliance section of the Int'l of MUD on the same topic. One of the importers discovered one of the older threads that named his business. Now he claim to be offering superior prep service as reason for higher prices. Really pisses me off that there are very few importers which claim great service packages but who are actually talking care of big price maintaince items like BEB, IP seals and Injectors. And as dweisger and I can tell you from experience, don't just take it to any bosch certified shop. Ask around for the best. Hopefully you have a warranty still in effect which covers this if you bought it off an importer.
WAY OT but...

where's the JDM Alliance ? I can't find it anymore.



Kalawang


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Old 01-10-08, 09:28 AM   #20
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We are here: INTL- JDM Owners Alliance - IH8MUD.com Forum. However, since IVOAC.CA has started this time last year, a lot of the JDM owners from Canada are over there.
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Old 01-11-08, 08:24 AM   #21
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We are here: INTL- JDM Owners Alliance - IH8MUD.com Forum. However, since IVOAC.CA has started this time last year, a lot of the JDM owners from Canada are over there.
Thanks Canuck.

The link on the forum page no longer seems to be there for me so I thought the forum had been removed. Glad to see it's still there, and I've added it to my favorites.


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