another alternator question

afischer · 12-28-07, 09:36 PM

I am trying to track down a charging problem on a 1984 BJ60. engine will start but sliggishly and more so each day. The charge light is not working and the glow light timer flashes on, then off quickly at start up. The other posts I have read suggest cleaning the grounds, for a start, and then checking the voltage regulator and alternator. I assume I have a 24Volt system...the vehicle is Canadian spec and has two batteries. The alternator, on the other hand says that it is 12volt. Is this possible? Do I really have a 24volt setup?

so what kind of alternator do I get if this one is toasted? Does anyone have a part number fro a BJ60 alternator? Will an fj60 alternator work?

Thanks

simonliew · 12-28-07, 09:56 PM

Hi,
All canadian specs BJ60 have 2 batteries connected in series and are 12 volts.l have one where the glow light flashes quickly on then off,ended up to be a bad voltage regulator.it can be wornout brushes too.Check the batt voltage when the engine is running,should be at least 14 volts.
The regulator and brushes can be access and change without taking the altetnator out of the truck,just remove a few screws and the brushes and regulator will comeout.
Check the brushes first,minimum length is about 10mm,l am not sure,my books are in the shop.just buy one from any alternator rebuild shop,you can buy the brushes with or without holder,if you buy it without the holder,you have to solder the new brushes ont o the holder.
Simon

gbcruiser · 12-28-07, 10:35 PM

Simon - I'm pretty sure there are 24v BJ60's up here as well, or did only the HJ60's get the 24V setup?

MrMoMo · 12-29-07, 07:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by simonliew

Hi,
All canadian specs BJ60 have 2 batteries connected in series and are 12 volts.

ERRRRRR!!

Unless you are running 6V batteries, you can not connect two in series and get 12V.

They are connected in PARALELL (double the capacity, same voltage) not series (same capacity, double the voltage)

mel lowe · 12-29-07, 10:21 PM

Your bj alt is rebuild able and most likely needs a brush kit.

The fj alt could be made to work, but you would loose your vac pump.

The bj alt has a vac pump built in....

afischer · 01-01-08, 01:19 PM

so it looks like two 12v batteries in parallel. I took the alternator to a shop. The voltage regulator was bad and the brushes were low. i should have it back tomorrow. i will let you know if it solves the problem, but it is looking like the alternator. so, how is a 24v system set up? Batteries in series? 24v alternator?

MrMoMo · 01-01-08, 02:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by afischer

Batteries in series? 24v alternator?

Yup!

afischer · 01-06-08, 10:20 PM

I got the alternator back. New brushes, regulator and bearings. I disconnected all the battery cables, put the alternator back in, grounded and plugged in the alternator and then connected battery cables. Smoke started pouring out of the alternator connector. Toasted one of the wires coming out of the regulator. Not sure what happened. I didn't really change anything else. Did the shop screw up the wiring? or did I connect something wrong or in the wrong sequence. Both batteries (parallel 12 V) seems fine with a full charge.

Ron R · 01-07-08, 03:58 AM

The sequence you reconnected everything sounds okay.
If you connected everything properly it looks like the shop made a mistake (put in the diodes the wrong way?)

fe sus · 01-08-08, 06:44 PM

i Just went through a very similar problem... it turned out the guys who rebuilt my alternator (the first time) put the regulator in UPSIDE DOWN. It can be done. Maybe it happened to you... if this is the case you'll need a new regulator...

afischer · 01-15-08, 09:59 PM

I think my alternator is shot. The shop rebuilding it said the teeth on the core are chipped and worn, and they are having trouble locating a new core. Anyone have a source for a new core or another alternator?

UpsideDown · 01-15-08, 11:53 PM

The wires to regulator can get pinched under the reg if it is not carefully installed leading to the smoking (dead) alternator problem you just experienced - or if the insulated terminal at the top of the alt was missing its insulated sleeve.

I'm sorry to hear about your grief. I think you should take it back to the alt shop to have them carefully check their work.

Ron R · 01-16-08, 02:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by afischer

I think my alternator is shot. The shop rebuilding it said the teeth on the core are chipped and worn, and they are having trouble locating a new core. Anyone have a source for a new core or another alternator?

Sorry you have this troubles, but if this is what they are saying after rebuilding it, they messed up their job and now want to make it your problem.

I would take it back and make them doing their job properly or have a refund !!

Or find a rebuilder that understands his trade.

UpsideDown · 01-16-08, 09:12 AM

Can you take a picture of the top of your alternator please...

afischer · 01-16-08, 10:45 AM

The shop has the alternator. It sounded like they were trying to cover their butts, claiming that it needs a new rotor or core. When i connected the alternator the first time, smoke poured out of the electrical connection (the green plug) on the alternator side. One of the wires, I believe it was white had gotten really hot, the insulation burnt off and the damage to the wire extended all the way back into the regulator. I took it back to the shop immediately , after posting here.

Now, not knowing much about electrical, could it be possible that the wrappings around the core were completely fried, as well. I suspect the shop could be able to re-wrap that or is a new core needed when that happens.

Thanks for the replies so far

Ron R · 01-16-08, 03:35 PM

They can rebuild everything if they understand their trade.
Maybe it's easier to have a new one instead of rebuilding.
This must not be your problem as they messed it up. So let them take care of it on their expense.

afischer · 01-16-08, 05:07 PM

Thanks Ron R...I think I will go for a refund. If seems as if they screwed this alternator up more than when I brought it in.

just talked to 4wheelauto..they were telling me that the splines on the alternator rods commonly wear down or strip in the BJ models Apparently it is worse in '82 BJ60s. The spline on the vacuum pump in these models can also strip. This necessitates replacing both the alternator and vacuum pump. They were quoting me prices...a new alternator from them...$450CN and a reman vacuum pump $350CN. They were telling me the new vacuum pump from Toyota runs $1300. Whew. i hope he old one can still be fixed.

Anyone else had the splines strip on the alternator rod and/or vacuum pump?

12-28-07, 09:36 PM	#1
afischer IH8MUD Rookie Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Monterey, California Posts: 39	another alternator question I am trying to track down a charging problem on a 1984 BJ60. engine will start but sliggishly and more so each day. The charge light is not working and the glow light timer flashes on, then off quickly at start up. The other posts I have read suggest cleaning the grounds, for a start, and then checking the voltage regulator and alternator. I assume I have a 24Volt system...the vehicle is Canadian spec and has two batteries. The alternator, on the other hand says that it is 12volt. Is this possible? Do I really have a 24volt setup? so what kind of alternator do I get if this one is toasted? Does anyone have a part number fro a BJ60 alternator? Will an fj60 alternator work? Thanks

12-28-07, 10:35 PM	#3
gbcruiser IH8MUD Regular Join Date: May 2007 Location: Vancouver Island Posts: 308	Simon - I'm pretty sure there are 24v BJ60's up here as well, or did only the HJ60's get the 24V setup? __________________ http://www.4wdtraveller.com/ 4x4 travel, adventure, news, and reviews.

12-29-07, 10:21 PM	#5
mel lowe IH8MUD Lifer Join Date: May 2005 Location: The Sunshine State Posts: 1,674	Your bj alt is rebuild able and most likely needs a brush kit. The fj alt could be made to work, but you would loose your vac pump. The bj alt has a vac pump built in.... __________________ "if the asparagus is over 4 inches in height then you have to go for the broccoli spring over roll with oppressive shackle reversal" - PhilC64

01-07-08, 03:58 AM	#9
Ron R IH8MUD Addict Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: The Netherlands Posts: 538	The sequence you reconnected everything sounds okay. If you connected everything properly it looks like the shop made a mistake (put in the diodes the wrong way?) __________________ Ron R 1995 HZJ-73 4.2ltr Diesel; ARB-lockers front and rear ; MM-hydr.winch 10,500#; home made sliders; HST-Parabolic springs; Koni Heavy Track shocks. http://www.ourwebspot.nl/English_index.html

01-08-08, 06:44 PM	#10
fe sus IH8MUD Addict Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Seattle Posts: 868	i Just went through a very similar problem... it turned out the guys who rebuilt my alternator (the first time) put the regulator in UPSIDE DOWN. It can be done. Maybe it happened to you... if this is the case you'll need a new regulator... __________________ 92 FJ80 - for sale 85 FJ60 - mostly stock, dog hauler 97 BMW R850R www.rhodescreations.com

12-28-07, 09:56 PM	#2
simonliew IH8MUD Junior Join Date: Oct 2004 Posts: 108	Hi, All canadian specs BJ60 have 2 batteries connected in series and are 12 volts.l have one where the glow light flashes quickly on then off,ended up to be a bad voltage regulator.it can be wornout brushes too.Check the batt voltage when the engine is running,should be at least 14 volts. The regulator and brushes can be access and change without taking the altetnator out of the truck,just remove a few screws and the brushes and regulator will comeout. Check the brushes first,minimum length is about 10mm,l am not sure,my books are in the shop.just buy one from any alternator rebuild shop,you can buy the brushes with or without holder,if you buy it without the holder,you have to solder the new brushes ont o the holder. Simon

01-01-08, 01:19 PM	#6
afischer IH8MUD Rookie Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Monterey, California Posts: 39	so it looks like two 12v batteries in parallel. I took the alternator to a shop. The voltage regulator was bad and the brushes were low. i should have it back tomorrow. i will let you know if it solves the problem, but it is looking like the alternator. so, how is a 24v system set up? Batteries in series? 24v alternator?

01-06-08, 10:20 PM	#8
afischer IH8MUD Rookie Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Monterey, California Posts: 39	I got the alternator back. New brushes, regulator and bearings. I disconnected all the battery cables, put the alternator back in, grounded and plugged in the alternator and then connected battery cables. Smoke started pouring out of the alternator connector. Toasted one of the wires coming out of the regulator. Not sure what happened. I didn't really change anything else. Did the shop screw up the wiring? or did I connect something wrong or in the wrong sequence. Both batteries (parallel 12 V) seems fine with a full charge.

01-15-08, 09:59 PM	#11
afischer IH8MUD Rookie Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Monterey, California Posts: 39	alternator source I think my alternator is shot. The shop rebuilding it said the teeth on the core are chipped and worn, and they are having trouble locating a new core. Anyone have a source for a new core or another alternator?

01-15-08, 11:53 PM	#12
UpsideDown IH8MUD Addict Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Koksilah, Vancouver Island, BC Posts: 575	The wires to regulator can get pinched under the reg if it is not carefully installed leading to the smoking (dead) alternator problem you just experienced - or if the insulated terminal at the top of the alt was missing its insulated sleeve. I'm sorry to hear about your grief. I think you should take it back to the alt shop to have them carefully check their work. __________________ 1978 FJ40 - parts vehicle - PM me 1987 HJ61 VX 5spd - loaded - daily driver 1981 BJ42 - ARBs, Warns, oba, ps, h55f, hws, soa

01-16-08, 09:12 AM	#14
UpsideDown IH8MUD Addict Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Koksilah, Vancouver Island, BC Posts: 575	Can you take a picture of the top of your alternator please... __________________ 1978 FJ40 - parts vehicle - PM me 1987 HJ61 VX 5spd - loaded - daily driver 1981 BJ42 - ARBs, Warns, oba, ps, h55f, hws, soa

01-16-08, 10:45 AM	#15
afischer IH8MUD Rookie Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Monterey, California Posts: 39	arrgh! The shop has the alternator. It sounded like they were trying to cover their butts, claiming that it needs a new rotor or core. When i connected the alternator the first time, smoke poured out of the electrical connection (the green plug) on the alternator side. One of the wires, I believe it was white had gotten really hot, the insulation burnt off and the damage to the wire extended all the way back into the regulator. I took it back to the shop immediately , after posting here. Now, not knowing much about electrical, could it be possible that the wrappings around the core were completely fried, as well. I suspect the shop could be able to re-wrap that or is a new core needed when that happens. Thanks for the replies so far

01-16-08, 03:35 PM	#16
Ron R IH8MUD Addict Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: The Netherlands Posts: 538	They can rebuild everything if they understand their trade. Maybe it's easier to have a new one instead of rebuilding. This must not be your problem as they messed it up. So let them take care of it on their expense. __________________ Ron R 1995 HZJ-73 4.2ltr Diesel; ARB-lockers front and rear ; MM-hydr.winch 10,500#; home made sliders; HST-Parabolic springs; Koni Heavy Track shocks. http://www.ourwebspot.nl/English_index.html

01-16-08, 05:07 PM	#17
afischer IH8MUD Rookie Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Monterey, California Posts: 39	Thanks Ron R...I think I will go for a refund. If seems as if they screwed this alternator up more than when I brought it in. just talked to 4wheelauto..they were telling me that the splines on the alternator rods commonly wear down or strip in the BJ models Apparently it is worse in '82 BJ60s. The spline on the vacuum pump in these models can also strip. This necessitates replacing both the alternator and vacuum pump. They were quoting me prices...a new alternator from them...$450CN and a reman vacuum pump $350CN. They were telling me the new vacuum pump from Toyota runs $1300. Whew. i hope he old one can still be fixed. Anyone else had the splines strip on the alternator rod and/or vacuum pump?

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Switch to Hybrid Mode Switch to Threaded Mode