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#1 |
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IH8MUD Rookie
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: San Francisco
Posts: 29
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new member with some questions
I have been reading off & on for years and think I might have even been a member once upon a time (long enough ago that I forgot any email and password...). I have recently bought an '87 HJ60 and have a few questions- nothing pressing, the truck isn't in pieces on the floor of my parking area or anything. First, what are some options on treating rust in the doubled roof/ window post areas. I have owned an FJ55 & 60 and they both had the cancer in the roof. My many hours of parking at the beach can't have helped. Secondly, I am running B100 fuel and am curious about long term effects of biodiesel on the fuel system- any "cut it off at the pass" replacements? With my 300TD there were some supply hoses that went due to the biodiesel. Lastly, anyone want to buy my five pretty damned near new BF Goodrich Mud Terrain tires (33x10.5), not much wear at all. They are way to butch for my 80% pavement lifestyle in the Bay Area. Would swap for same sized Goodrich All Terrains.
That's it for now but a general thanks to the aggregate of information posted here, I learned a lot about my 24v charging system a few months ago when it was on the ropes. Jeff |
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#2 |
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Diesel for blood
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: west australia
Posts: 6,523
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Hi Jeff
This a diesel tech forum. Bodywork questions should go to the 60 series forum ,there is lots of pics and other guys chopping rust and there is a classified section for selling stuff which is viewed by the whole board .After 94 ,Toyotas diesel got Viton fuel lines which dont deteriorate.Its just a matter of buying some the correct size and replacing them. You can get access to the fuel tank through the hatch under the carpet in the rear. Or you could leave them till when and if they deteriorate . By the way ,some of us have a theory the roof rust is caused by lack of ventilation after rainy days which causes condensation to form on the inside of the roof. It nearly always rust from the inside out
__________________ HZJ75 cab chassis 95 model ,stocker FJ73+1HZ Diesel NEW GEARBOX 1HZ =same power as 3F with 30% better fuel economy 2in Dobinsons lift.Powerdown adj shocks 33 in BFG A/T HJ61 with slidin windas regrettfully SOLD:(Volvo 740 GL |
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#3 |
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IH8MUD Addict
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I would also post the tires in the parts classified section. I'm sure there would be good demand for that size and that tire among Bay Area cruiserheads.
Nice to hear of another biodiesel cruiser in Cali. B __________________ Brendan 1983 BJ42 bioD, lots o' Aqualu, TIC Parabolics/DT8000s, Tuffy, 33x9.5 BFG ATs, SOLD
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#4 |
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IH8MUD Rookie
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: San Francisco
Posts: 29
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Thanks, I'll post the rust & tires elsewhere. I too have been suspicious that rust starts that way too though... Have people had trouble with fuel lines failing with biodiesel? if they don't need to come out quickly, I won't get right on it. That low sulfur stuff, though, that killed me. Our local bio station closed and all it took was a month of running low sulfur fuel to rot the primer pump gasket and fuel filter gasket. I hope that the biodiesel gets things back in order that I couldn't see.
PS: what of new radiators? I went through an incredibly expensive ordeal having mine rebuilt, couldn't find a new one anywhere outsideof Canada or Australia and with shipping and transit time it seemed easier to bit the bullet locally. I hope to not need a new radiator for a very long time but if I do, or should need something else that Specter doesn't stock what are some good sources for diesel engine parts? Thanks again, Jeff |
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#5 | |
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Diesel for blood
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: west australia
Posts: 6,523
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Quote:
The radiator in a HJ60 is a mirror image of the FJ60 I think. Maybe you could use a new core with your old tanks or modify the tanks by having new spouts put on(I think the imprints of where they go are already there.) Or you could get some longer hoses to reach the opposite side they are on now. IMO ,bite the bullet and get a new one from a Canadian dealer. There is a vendors list in the index and one of them may help. Hanging around MUD is a good place to learn about sourcing hard to get parts,its just a matter of time and everything crops up sooner or later .Your going to need consumables like filters and injectors so keep an eye out for them
__________________ HZJ75 cab chassis 95 model ,stocker FJ73+1HZ Diesel NEW GEARBOX 1HZ =same power as 3F with 30% better fuel economy 2in Dobinsons lift.Powerdown adj shocks 33 in BFG A/T HJ61 with slidin windas regrettfully SOLD:(Volvo 740 GL |
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#6 |
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Mod in Hibernation
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Hey Jeff welcome to the forum. Specific bio questions can be asked in our alternate fuels sub section here in the diesel section.
Roof rot is well covered in the 60 section. All the seams on these things are bare metal. So I would squirt some corrosion proofing oil in all the seams you can find. Post the tires up in the parts section of the classifieds. I bet someone will trade cross the board for there regular tires. __________________ -84 BJ60, Finally on the FN road! -91 FJ80, wife's ride Iron Butt award winner of the Cruise Moab 08 ! |
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#7 | |
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IH8MUD Rookie
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: South Central Texas
Posts: 19
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Quote:
In terms of your rust, you could probably inject "phos" into the "cancer" areas. It is a form of sulphuric acid that kills rust and coats with sort of a primer. You could probably shoot some sort of "undercoating" into the holes once you've neutralized the rust. This sounds crazy, but it may be the least problematic way to deal with things other than dismantling the car and dipping it in acid to kill all the rust (I did a '54 Chevy truck that way a few years ago). I would not run your car on biodiesel until you get some confirmations on this site about long-term effects. I would do it in a pinch, but there's no reason to do so at present. You figure these old 2H engines were engineered for regular diesel and if they're babied supposedly they can get 1,000,000 miles. Even if that's a 50% exaggeration, why screw around with biodiesel and jeopardize that sort of possibility. I may be way off base on this, but that's just my intuitive thinking. Again, welcome to the forum. Post a picture so we can all see your HJ-60. What color is it? |
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#8 |
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IH8MUD Rookie
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: San Francisco
Posts: 29
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Thanks again all for dishing the dirt- injections of rust acid is a good tip, I wondered about that with my FJ-60. I am going to stick with the biodiesel as a principled fuel choice. The current admin, the war, the profiteering of the big oil companies. I know that there are holes in these rationales but I still want to walk/ bike/ skate where I can and drive something that doesn't burn oil that further enriches BP or the like. Hopefully a tire trade will come my way....
I'll post a picture from my upcoming camp/ fish/ surf junket when I return early in the New Year. |
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#9 | |
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IH8MUD Rookie
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: South Central Texas
Posts: 19
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Quote:
When you get the radiator, take it to a regular radiator rebuild shop in your town. They will change the portlet/outlet on the bottom from one side to the other. It's an easy deal and will run you about $50. (at least that's the cost here in South Central Texas). That way you'll have a brand new radiator and there you have it! __________________ I love my HJ-60 with its little 2H wonder engine!
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