Starting a 3B that's been sitting - my new ride

[splitbuseric]

HI all,

I just finalized the deal on my new 81 BJ42.. One owner, original paint truck. Needs the usual body work but the chassis/frame/mechanics appear in excellent shape. Original John Deere green colour. Will have to go over the mechanics and usual stuff for a sitting vehicle. It has been in a garage for about 6 years and has not been started in that time...

So what are some diesel precautions I should take before starting it... Obviously I should charge the batteries and change the oil and fuel. I will likely drain the fuel tank as well if you guys think it's necessary... Previous owner to the truck was anal about maintenance and it has always had the filters changed and water separator emptied...

But what other things should I do before cranking it over? should I try to build oil pressure somehow first? Are there any 24V precautions? Both my other 3B's are 12V trucks, if I remember right I need to fully charge both batteries individually for the 24V system....

Suggestions please and no, I don't have any pics yet..... to follow..

Thanks,

Eric

[roscoFJ73]

I would drain all the fluids inc coolant and brake,clutch fluid.

Its possible there is algea in the tank. It lives in the condensation in the upper parts of the tank where the fuel doesnt or hasnt touched for some time.
There are fuel treatments for this.

I would remove the glow plugs(maybe buy new ones) and spin the engine on the starter motor. This should bring the oil pressure up without the engine starting.

Be aware that vehicles that have not been moved or started for some time can have seals and gaskets that have dried or shrunk and can leak oil profusely.

I would say you will need new batteries. But yes you must charge them one a time with a 12v charger.
I dont if you can do both at once with a 24 v charger.

[brownbear]

all noted above is good.


was the tank stored full? If so you might get lucky. Less chance of condensation.

The diesel may still be fine to burn off. Unlike gas it won't go off, but can grow algae and have water in it.

The tank has drain plug so you could crack it with a clean container below. Then look at the fuel and see if you see water bubbles. Or contamination.

[marting]

I would drain all the fuel-lines, fill up with fresh diesel ,it may contain water, and diesel is a "fresh product" like milk.... .... and ofcourse you need to pump fuel manually to the filter.+ you might need to crank it for a while. my prediction is: it will start right away and then stop after 5 seconds when the lines from the pump to the engine are empty... after that: expect to drain your battery!

Good luck..

[splitbuseric]

Originally Posted by brownbear

all noted above is good.


was the tank stored full? If so you might get lucky. Less chance of condensation.

The diesel may still be fine to burn off. Unlike gas it won't go off, but can grow algae and have water in it.

The tank has drain plug so you could crack it with a clean container below. Then look at the fuel and see if you see water bubbles. Or contamination.

I am not sure about he fuel tank.... Will likely drain first anyway... Hanve't got the truck home yet... Will know more then...

How do the glow systems on these earlier 3Bs(I am assuming its a 3B, although the injection pump had a # 33 on it different, than the numbers on both my other 3Bs) work? Is it manual? I though I remember seeing something like a switch on the das that said glow?

thanks
Eric

[cruiser182]

Originally Posted by roscoFJ73

I would say you will need new batteries. But yes you must charge them one a time with a 12v charger.
I dont if you can do both at once with a 24 v charger.

You can charge both batteries at the same time with a 12V charger - just connect them in parallel.

[marting]

Originally Posted by splitbuseric

I am not sure about he fuel tank.... Will likely drain first anyway... Hanve't got the truck home yet... Will know more then...

How do the glow systems on these earlier 3Bs(I am assuming its a 3B, although the injection pump had a # 33 on it different, than the numbers on both my other 3Bs) work? Is it manual? I though I remember seeing something like a switch on the das that said glow?

thanks
Eric

Nah... it's supposed to glow automatically in the ON position of the key.. well... actually i'm on a limb here ...3B.' are unfamiliar to me,,, i'm guessing it's the same as every other diesel though..

[brownbear]

Originally Posted by splitbuseric

I am not sure about he fuel tank.... Will likely drain first anyway... Hanve't got the truck home yet... Will know more then...

How do the glow systems on these earlier 3Bs(I am assuming its a 3B, although the injection pump had a # 33 on it different, than the numbers on both my other 3Bs) work? Is it manual? I though I remember seeing something like a switch on the das that said glow?

thanks
Eric

Well this is just a stored vehicle...not something out of a farm field.

The glow plugs may all be fine.

Seriously I would just pump up the primer till it got solid and start it up. Guys pour all kinds of crappy things into their diesels. They are fairly rugged.

You can drain just a gallon off the tank and see if it's got water. Water is pretty evident in diesel. It sits on the bottom of the tank, right where the plug is. And when you sample the tank if there is water it will go to the bottom of the can and look like bubbles. Shine a light in the can to see it.

Drain the water sedimenter too.

[mac]

As BB already stated, don't worry about the diesel going bad- it doesn't. Worry about water and algae.

I think I'd pull the valve cover, check the clearances and put a drop of prelube on each rocker. Then do as Rosco said and crank it w/o the glowplugs.

[HJ61TurboDiesel]

I am starting a 2H that has been sitting in storage for like five years. It has been stored inside but not in a heated room so it has the hot temp in the summer and freezing in the winter. It has been filled with coolant the whole time. Should i squirt some oil into the cylinders as well before starting and running it on the starter to lubricate the cylinder walls? Is it likely to corrode inside the cylinders when stored? The engine looks OK under the rocker cover and has no corrocion there. Anything else I should/could do?

[brownbear]

Originally Posted by mac

As BB already stated, don't worry about the diesel going bad- it doesn't. Worry about water and algae.

I think I'd pull the valve cover, check the clearances and put a drop of prelube on each rocker. Then do as Rosco said and crank it w/o the glowplugs.

you could probably soak the rockers with an oiling can thru the filler hole.

[brownbear]

Originally Posted by HJ61TurboDiesel

I am starting a 2H that has been sitting in storage for like five years. It has been stored inside but not in a heated room so it has the hot temp in the summer and freezing in the winter. It has been filled with coolant the whole time. Should i squirt some oil into the cylinders as well before starting and running it on the starter to lubricate the cylinder walls? Is it likely to corrode inside the cylinders when stored? The engine looks OK under the rocker cover and has no corrocion there. Anything else I should/could do?

the cylinders with open valves may have some surface corrosion. If it's been inside I will guess it is fine.

Drain and re-fill the engine oil. Prime it up and start er. Maybe drain a gallon off the tank with the drain plug.


TIP: if you want to drain only a bit of fuel off the tank it is messy. I suggest a large bucket placed under it. Then roll up your sleeves. Put on a rubber glove. Then tie a shop towel around your wrist. The towel will stop the fuel from going right to your arm pit.

[mac]

Originally Posted by brownbear

you could probably soak the rockers with an oiling can thru the filler hole.

Ya, could do but many 3B's are in need of a good valve adjustment and it's soooo easy to do. Also prevents rocker assy wear and the associated clatter. I always check a new-to-me 3B first thing.

[splitbuseric]

Originally Posted by brownbear

you could probably soak the rockers with an oiling can thru the filler hole.

I will try that too...

What is this glow system called? I assume its not a superglow? The PO said that a little red light slowly glows brighter and brighter until it is fully red, thus meaning the glow plugs are ready... Does this sound correct? I thought I noticed a black rocker switch that said glow on it... maybe I am mistaken.....

[brownbear]

It's probably just a manual glow system. As long you get power to the plugs it doesn't matter what the system is.

[brownbear]

Originally Posted by mac

Ya, could do but many 3B's are in need of a good valve adjustment and it's soooo easy to do. Also prevents rocker assy wear and the associated clatter. I always check a new-to-me 3B first thing.

I thought the valve adjustment was supposed to be done with the engine at temp(hot) not cold.........

[canucksafari]

Originally Posted by brownbear

I thought the valve adjustment was supposed to be done with the engine at temp(hot) not cold.........

Yes, most people recommend to do it after a good run and adjusted while it is still too hot to touch. Apparently shops rarely get them hot enough to do them properly (time is money). I paid to have mine done about 40,000 kms ago and it is due again. May give it a try if I can convince someone who has done it to supervise for beers. Greg? But for now, I think it is best to do all the other prep and leave the valves until she has run for a few days without issues.

[mac]

For the time it takes- pull the cover, drop some assy lube in there, do a quick check for clearances (leave them on the loose side if cold) and re-check after a few runs hot.

That's what I'd do if it were mine. Your 3B will probably be fine if you don't but doing it that way you'll 100% know that your rocker assy isn't dry.

[Big Blue 84BJ60]

when dooing my vale adjustments i ru my 3b on highway (the 410) for 20 min thne pull head cover set to 14degrees (timing settings) and adujust the valves but ive found that to do this properly the engine has to behot not warm (i take the valve cover off hot wearing gloves) other wise it doesnt work as well(less hoarse power/shitty power) my 2 cents take it or leave it

[roscoFJ73]

I know the F engines require a hot adjustment ,but does the B manual say the same thing?

[Moe R]

Engine up to temperature