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Old 12-05-07, 01:56 PM   #1
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Smile OK Mr. Wilson…what now?

OK, so I told Toyota to stick their parts and decided to go with a Wilson switch. I get the general idea. But my glow sensor is pretty much fried at the end so I have to bypass that connection and connect directly to the busbar at one of the glow plugs. Question is, what do I have to disconnect and/or connect to get this to work? I am going to be bypassing the resistor and sensor, which are the normal connection to the busbar. Here's a pic of the fried end of the sensor.

Also, Greg's explanation of how to connect the three wires to the button switch is unclear to me. I know there is lot's posted. I just need clarification on where these three wires go on the switch.

Thanks a bunch.
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Old 12-05-07, 04:17 PM   #2
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Since my timer is still fine, can I not bypass the sensor and run wire from the relay to the plugs? Would that require two separate wires? I such case I could possible keep the stock key switch.
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Old 12-06-07, 06:51 AM   #3
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Would it be possible to braze some metal the end of the bar?

I had a similar problem with the contacts in my starter. The dealer brazed the end of the contacts (for free) so my starter would work while I waited the few days for the parts to come in. I still have the ordered parts and the brazed part still functions.


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Old 12-06-07, 02:22 PM   #4
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Use a apropiate relay that can handle all V for GP .. after that wire to the inside of your cruiser the wires that you need to activate your relay from the cabin with your wilson switch. then from the relay to the glow bar .. and you are done.


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if you aren't denting and bending stuff, you just aren't wheeling hard enough
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Old 12-06-07, 11:44 PM   #5
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to do a simple install... just control the two field wires on the relay. They turn the relay on and off.


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Old 12-07-07, 05:09 AM   #6
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Sorry for the double posting. I really am electrically challenged. What do you mean by field wires?
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Old 12-07-07, 09:51 AM   #7
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Sorry for the double posting. I really am electrically challenged. What do you mean by field wires?
http://www.autoshop101.com/trainmodules/relays/106.html

The field wires when energized(magnetic field) pull the contacts closed for the main power to flow from the battery to the glowplugs. You control the field wires.

DC theory is fairly simple stuff. I suggest getting a book from the library to read up on dc circuits. It can only be beneficial in life to know them a little better. Especially when you can look after an older cruiser.


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Old 12-07-07, 03:02 PM   #8
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Especially when you can look after an older cruiser.
Great advice .. you will practice in your cruiser .. I preefer 100:1 electrical work to a mechanical work ..


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if you aren't denting and bending stuff, you just aren't wheeling hard enough
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Old 12-08-07, 12:36 AM   #9
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I learned and practice my DC theory on a plane. My cruiser is way harder to figure out with this darn negative switches and stuff... but still not too bad.


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Old 12-11-07, 05:57 PM   #10
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Wink

OK, I have some 8 gauge wire and heavy ends to bypass the metal strap to the busbar. But the only push switches at NAPA were rated to 25 amp. It that "heavy-duty" enough? I wasn't planning to run the full current to the switch but use the Wilson to the glow plug relay.
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Old 12-12-07, 09:47 AM   #11
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In the diesel classifieds "eric" has them for sale. Nice heavy buttons.

But remember the switch cannot take the whole glow plug load. You have to use a relay. One rated for 100 amps. The switch turns the relay on and off. So think of the relay as a large amp remote switch.


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Old 12-12-07, 09:48 AM   #12
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OK, I have some 8 gauge wire and heavy ends to bypass the metal strap to the busbar. But the only push switches at NAPA were rated to 25 amp. It that "heavy-duty" enough? I wasn't planning to run the full current to the switch but use the Wilson to the glow plug relay.
25 amps is plenty. the field coil to operate the relay is no more than an amp or two.

8 gauge is a good size for the glow plugs I think.


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Old 12-13-07, 04:03 PM   #13
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Wink

I think I can get something more robust from a local heavy equipment supply shop. I am still hoping to do the Wilson and run the 8 gauge wire from the stock relay. You guys are so right about the stock timer. I forgot about how it seems to give even lower times in cold weather. This morning, coldest yet, it would only give me a few seconds. Time for a change.
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Old 12-14-07, 05:21 PM   #14
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Done. Probably easier not in the driveway with snow and after dark. I'll know better in the morning how it will work. Will change from the strap to the wire another time. Not sure about attaching to the busbar at one of the plugs. I guess that's where the stock plate attaches. So, how long should I glow? Winter nighttime temps. in Nova Scotia is typically minus 5, maybe minus 10, although we do sometimes get minus 20. Thanks again for all the help, especially BrownBear and all the other animals.
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Old 12-14-07, 06:44 PM   #15
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Red face Something fishy!!!

So, cold truck did not want to start!!! Glowed for about 10 secs. and it didn't even want to kick. glowed some more and still nothing. I think it pretty much started without glow. I can hear the relay kick in when I push the button. But the voltmeter only drops maybe one volt during load. Did I get the wrong wire? Too stormy to look at it tonight. How much does your meter drop during load? Before I did the switch, it dropped at least 4-6 volts during the first part of the cycle. Strangeness…
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Old 12-14-07, 07:09 PM   #16
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My V can drop up to 8V during the Glow process ..


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