Oil and filter question?

[RayRickburn]

Hi There,

First post, just found this site and had to join. I have a 1990 PZJ77, 56,XXX km. 1PZ engine, stock. During the winter, temperatures in my area are from a max low of -30/25c to a high of 10c. What type of oil should I be using, mineral, semi-synthetic or synthetic? What viscosity and weight, 10W30, 10W40 or other? Any info on this subject would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

[brownbear]

maybe rotella 0w40. good all around but if you start getting above 10 degrees I would consider going back to 15w40 or so.

[gerg]

You could also try amsoil 5-30 HD diesel. But that might be harder to find where you are. Personally I only use synthetic oil, I find it protects better and is more cost effective.

[Big Blue 84BJ60]

can you switch back and forth between dyno and synthetic oils with no problems?

[Cruisin']

Originally Posted by gerg

You could also try amsoil 5-30 HD diesel. But that might be harder to find where you are. Personally I only use synthetic oil, I find it protects better and is more cost effective.

Can you shed some light on how synthetic oil is more cost effective? I won't question that the lubrication qualities are superior, but I can't wrap my mind around the idea of superior economics when the stuff is around 3 times the cost. I'd have to stretch my oil change intervals to 15,000 kms

[M John Galt]

Originally Posted by Cruisin'

Can you shed some light on how synthetic oil is more cost effective? I won't question that the lubrication qualities are superior, but I can't wrap my mind around the idea of superior economics when the stuff is around 3 times the cost. I'd have to stretch my oil change intervals to 15,000 kms

synthetic is about 6x the cost of recycled oil, for those who want to use the cheapest oil.

Owning and maintaining a quality vehicle like a Landcruiser is a bit different than a N.American truck where one may be tempted to use the cheapest oil and filters cuz it's only gonna last about 250K miles anyway and will likely sell it before then.

Landcruisers are designed to last for half a million miles or more if maintained correctly, with lubes and parts equal or better than Toyota quality.
That's why mining companies in N.America buy the new Toyota trucks we can't because of our "father knows best" government.

My Cruiser gets Mobil1 synthetic in the winter and Delo400 in the summer, about 8k on each.
Every oil change gets a sample analyzed by Finning
I buy oil on sale in 5gal pails or gallon jugs for about $20 a gallon, which is what I pay for a gallon of good beer that only lasts 6 days not six months like top quality oil. I also use the best filter: Purolator PL30001

[MattF]

Originally Posted by Big Blue 84BJ60

can you switch back and forth between dyno and synthetic oils with no problems?

It's not generally recommended. My honest opinion would be use the oil type the engine was designed for. If it wasn't designed to run full synth, don't use it. The main point to remember with diesel engines is to use a good oil and filter and change it frequently. They deposit a lot of crud in the oil over a fairly short period of time, so renewing the oil and filter on a regular basis will keep the condition as good as possible.

With regards to synth, the problem arises with engines that have been used with normal oil for a period of years. If the engine had been using full synth since day one, its use would probably be no problem. However, when you've been using mineral or semi-synth in it, switching to a full-synth can lead to deposits being dislodged, which is where the basis of the 'switching to a fully synth causes leaks' tale arises from. It isn't that the oil creates leaks, it's more along the lines of it unplugs ones which already exist but have been plugged by buildup over time.

[RayRickburn]

The Toyota oil filter part number for the 1PZ is 909153002, has anyone cross referenced this part and found other brand that will fit this engine?

[hedydd]

Originally Posted by brownbear

maybe rotella 0w40. good all around but if you start getting above 10 degrees I would consider going back to 15w40 or so.

Why? Both oils are equivilent at 40 viscosity at 100Celcius.

[MattF]

Originally Posted by RayRickburn

The Toyota oil filter part number for the 1PZ is 909153002, has anyone cross referenced this part and found other brand that will fit this engine?

I assume you meant 9091530002? If so:

http://outgoing.bauchan.org/toyota_s...fo/filters.txt

Edit: Btw, that list was done for the Surf, so the other filters, air/fuel, may be different.

[MattF]

Originally Posted by hedydd

Why? Both oils are equivilent at 40 viscosity at 100Celcius.

Edited: There's a viscosity chart at the link below for recommended oil viscosities for the 2LT range.

http://outgoing.bauchan.org/toyota_s...type_chart.jpg

[RayRickburn]

Originally Posted by MattF

I assume you meant 9091530002? If so:

http://outgoing.bauchan.org/toyota_s...fo/filters.txt

Edit: Btw, that list was done for the Surf, so the other filters, air/fuel, maybe different.

Sorry, my mistake on the part #. Thanks for the list!

[gerg]

Sorry for the late reply cruisin'. I run a bypass oil filter with synthetic and change the bypass and full flow filter every 5000k. Takes bout a litre of oil to fill the filters. The rest of the oil I will have tested and go by their recomendations as for oil changes. In the long run... like over a year it is quite affordable. Check out bobistheoilguy.com great site
Cheers
G

[brownbear]

Originally Posted by hedydd

Why? Both oils are equivilent at 40 viscosity at 100Celcius.

the 40 part of the equation is not as important as the first part. While is supposedly supposed to act like a 40 weight at temp is isn't.

My research into told me the second figure is with additives. So a 15w40 is thicker than a 0w40. But even at temp they will not be the same, as the 0w40 will be thinner.

If oils were perfect we would be offered a 0w40 for everything. For all heat ranges.

Wish I could find the info.

All I can say is no, the 0w40 will offer lower oil pressure on a hot day than a 15w40.

So the charts are important to follow.

I'm not versed well enough on it to know. I am only using my practical experience of watching oil pressure gauges on various days.

[brownbear]

Originally Posted by Big Blue 84BJ60

can you switch back and forth between dyno and synthetic oils with no problems?

The ratings on the bottle say you can. Supposedly compatible.

But I would not do it myself. The only advantage to using synthetic is going to be sticking with it.

[brownbear]

Originally Posted by MattF

It's not generally recommended. My honest opinion would be use the oil type the engine was designed for. If it wasn't designed to run full synth, don't use it. The main point to remember with diesel engines is to use a good oil and filter and change it frequently. They deposit a lot of crud in the oil over a fairly short period of time, so renewing the oil and filter on a regular basis will keep the condition as good as possible.

With regards to synth, the problem arises with engines that have been used with normal oil for a period of years. If the engine had been using full synth since day one, its use would probably be no problem. However, when you've been using mineral or semi-synth in it, switching to a full-synth can lead to deposits being dislodged, which is where the basis of the 'switching to a fully synth causes leaks' tale arises from. It isn't that the oil creates leaks, it's more along the lines of it unplugs ones which already exist but have been plugged by buildup over time.

I agree with this.

One other note. When you have an engine with a hundred thousand or more KMs, and is 20 yrs old....what advantage is synthetic oil going to provide. You were not there for the break in or the care of the engine for the first 15-20 years so somehow synthetic is going to make your engine last forever?

Honestly on a used a engine, good quality regular oil will work fine. Keep fresh and be happy.

My FJ80 was switched to synthetics my the PO, and I wish he didn't. I have numerous leaks.

I'd rather buy a nice bottle of wine.

[Ron R]

AFAIK never break in an engine with full synthetic.
Apparently this keeps the piston-rings from breaking in properly and the engine will start burning oil after some time.
General recommandation is to break-in the engine with dino and then change to synthetic if you want to.

Brownbear I think you're in the aircraft business? Have you heard about the story regarding Continental engines?
There once was an big discussion about these engines starting to burn the engine oil in high amounts.
This was related to a recommendation from the manufacturer to use full synthetic from zero hours on.
Costed them a lot due to engine rebuilds.
Soon they reverted back to breaking in with dino and after that go to (semi-)synthetic.

[M John Galt]

Originally Posted by Ron R

AFAIK never break in an engine with full synthetic.

That is correct, especially with aircraft engines, even after a top end OH, especially if using chromed bores and cast iron rings. First oil is single weight straight mineral oil, non detergent.