94 FZJ80 6.2 conversion begins!

[rtarh2o]

I decided to start a new thread on this and somewhat document my progress and hopefully get some questions answered along the way. The car is a 1994 FZJ80. I purchased the car with a bad head (already removed) just for this conversion. This is my second 94, sold my previous one last year because I got tired of the mileage but miss it too much so decided on a diesel conversion and eventually run WVO. I was originally thinking Toyota diesel but ofter pricing them they were immediately out of the question. Next thought was the Isuzu, I actually was in the process of buying one but as I was waiting on the guy to remove it from his truck (I waited about 6 weeks, still haven't heard from him!) I came across a local guy selling military take-out 6.2's. I have read up on these and have heard all the stories about reliability but from the 6.2 forums they seem to be very reliable engines. I was a bit concerned about power so I went to visit the guy selling them, he had a Chevy 2500 4x4 he had converted that I drove. I was sold, it seemed to have more power than my old 94 FZJ80 ever did, plus just had the feeling of torque that the V-8's have. The other factor about the 6.2 is that it doesn't require the engine to trans adapter as does the Isuzu, this saves another $1,000. So far I have about $2,500 in parts (engine, rebuilt trans and adapter) I am thinking there will be about another $2,000 to complete it, not including the tires and lift! These are "before" pictures. The car was a mess when I got it so the first thing I did was completely gut the interior, carpets out, removed the padding, even pressured washed the interior! I pressure washed the carpet and hand scrubbed every interior piece. Despite being a mess the seats and carpet were actually in really good shape, they cleaned up great! After the car is running I will detail the exterior. Rusty 94 FZJ80 6.2 Diesel in progress

[rtarh2o]

This next set of pictures is of the engine coming out. It is huge, there was a discussion on another thread about removing the engine/trans combo. I am not sure how you could do it without removing the radiator/condensor and top of the core support. It came out fairly easy after I realized I had not removed the transfer case shifter! Total length - 6'6"!

[rtarh2o]

Here is a picture of the engine. The guy painted the whole thing black, I pressure washed it now plan to detail it a bit before installation. I spent yesterday assembling the trans/transfer case, working on the shift linkage for the auto shifter (want to keep it stock) and detailing the engine compartment.

[rtarh2o]

Cleaned up the picture of the transfer case adapter/trans. It is a Mark's unit, got it from the classifieds here on Mud! It is a nice set-up, retains the factory mounts and shifter, can't wait to get it in! My question is about the wiring? I assume this is for the center lock, is this going to work with my new set-up? I assume it will. Also, where do you get the switches so you can lock it in high gear?

[rtarh2o]

Another question, does the speedometer work off of the transfer case or the transmission? I can't find anything on the transmission that looks like speedo and there is something on the transfer case that does. Although with electronics I am not sure what I am looking for. I am used to the cable coming out! The transfer case looks to have something like that with an electrical hook up to it. Hopefully this is it so I can use my factory speedometer.

[ChuckB]

Very Cool!!! Can't wait to see how this turns out. Good luck!!!

[Towpack]

The speed sensor is on the rear extension housing of the Xfer box,next to the rear prop shaft.

[rtarh2o]

I assume the speed sensor is what makes the speedometer work? Like I said, I am old school, used to seeing an actual cable! If this is the speed sensor is it what makes the cruise control work too? I am hoping I can use my factory cruise control work, I am looking into aftermarket, not too bad price wise but I like the controls on the column.
Rusty

[rtarh2o]

By the way, I am trying to get rid of all the parts left over, I posted it in the classifieds and had 2 responses but nothing firm yet. I am willing to give it all away right now, just want the space. If I still have it after the conversion I will crate the trans and sell it and part out the rest. I would rather have someone come pick it all up! The trans has about 130,000 miles and was serviced at 103,000, should be excellent! I am in Texarkana, Texas first come first served.
Rusty

[Tapage]

Mm nice .. you gonna turboed the Chevy engine ?

[rtarh2o]

Not planning on a turbo now, I am hoping I will be happy with it without. I live in the flatlands at low altitude so I think it might be ok. As I said, the Chevy truck I drove with the same engine seemed fine but I only drove it a short distance. If I end up towing much, or find I need more power on the long hills I can add one fairly easily.
Rusty

[browndog]

Glad to see you're moving forward. I will be following a similar route and will have lots of questions for you when I get started.

I'm not sure how easy it will be to add a turbo afterward as the passenger side shock tower will have to be modified (unless you go with a center mount turbo, which I'm not sure is an option on the 6.2).

Is that the Toy trans? What are you doing to modify the shifter?

Good luck.

[rtarh2o]

I am using a 700r4 trans mounted to the toyota transfer case via a marks adapter. The Toyota shift linkage is on the right side of the trans and the 700r4 is on the left side. The toyota shifter is on the left side of the trans tunnel with a shaft running to the right. I took the arm off of the right side of the shaft and am welding it to the end of the shifter on the left side. I cut a hole through the floor and hope to use the factory linkage to mate it to the 700r4. I know the toyota shift arm on the trans is going to have to be modified as well but doesn't look too bad. I will let you know how it is going to work, that is my next project.

Rusty

[rtarh2o]

I am in the process of trying to make my stock auto shifter work with the 700r4. Has anyone done this?
Rusty

[bigluxs]

Not on topic but are you going to put it on DYNO???

We just had the old mans one on DYNO after a month of fart assing around with the shop trying to get it right....anyway the first DYNO was 87kws than the second run a month later after timing it properly now is at 100.9kws at the wheels

[rtarh2o]

Hadn't thought about dynoing it, but it would be interesting. I have a friend a few hours from here with a dyno, might have to pay him a visit! How do those numbers translate to HP? I am thinking this engine is probably a late model and since it is a military unit I am just guessing around 160 hp and just shy of 300 in torque. I could be way off, but the truck I drove with one of these engines felt pretty strong.
Rusty

[bigluxs]

Originally Posted by rtarh2o

Hadn't thought about dynoing it, but it would be interesting. I have a friend a few hours from here with a dyno, might have to pay him a visit! How do those numbers translate to HP? I am thinking this engine is probably a late model and since it is a military unit I am just guessing around 160 hp and just shy of 300 in torque. I could be way off, but the truck I drove with one of these engines felt pretty strong.
Rusty

i'll have to get the print out of it but i think torque was 300+

the motor is a 1992 and was reco about 5-7yrs ago

[bigluxs]

ok here is the print out (.....oh this is a 6.5L)

[FL cruiser]

I am thinking this engine is probably a late model and since it is a military unit I am just guessing around 160 hp and just shy of 300 in torque.

you're close on the HP, but off on the torque.
The two military engine I bought came with all the paperwork. They were dyno'd at a military facility in Texas. The peak HP was 150 on one, 148 on the other, but peak torque was under 250 ft lbs. The military usually has their inj pumps calibrated for more output and tests is done with Military headers. I guess if you tweaked the pump a little more you could get close to 160HP/250 ft lbs, but I'm guessing by the time you put cast iron exhast manifolds and exhaust on you would be back down to 150HP.

[gumps10]

If you have acces to them why not use the military headers? Their pretty cheap on ebay.

[FL cruiser]

It's the issue of fit. Military headers won't fit where manifolds will. hopefully he gets lucky and they'll fit. That pass side header aims straight back at the firewall.

[made4surf]

I would have to agree with fl cruiser, there is no way you could use those military headers. For sure you would have to modify the heck out of the firewall and your passengers will lose a lot of leg space.

[rtarh2o]

My engine came with the headers, I have also ordered some stock manifolds because after trial fitting the engine mounts to the block I thought I may not be able to use the headers. I am hoping to get the engine set in the car this weekend so it is possible I can modify a few things to keep the headers. The guy I bought the engine from had a Chevy 2500 4x4 he converted with the same engine. He couldn't fit the headers either but the truck still drove with what seemed to be plenty of power. Hopefully I will feel the same about the 80. I will post some picture of my progress this weekend!
Rusty

[rtarh2o]

Got engine and trans (seperately this time) in for a trial fit. Am in the process of transmission linkage. I moved the lever connected to the shift lever in the car to the opposite side and bought an adapter from a company called Lokar. It is a pretty good set-up, it is an adjustable linkage exactly for what I am doing. I got it trial fitted today and it seems like it is going to work, I just need to modify my shift console a bit now for the extra gear.
I trial fitted the engine with the Toyota mounts still on the frame, I had a thought that they might just line up. The passenger side probably could have worked but the drivers side is smaller and in the wrong spot by about 6". I am now in the process of removing the mounts. This is by far the hardest thing I have done to date, I don't have a tourch so am using whatever I can find. I have them off now just have a bit of grinding to do now!
Hope to get some pictures up tomorrow
Rusty

[rtarh2o]

Here are some pictures of what I have accomplished this weekend.
First is shift linkage mods.

[rtarh2o]

Here is the Lokar adjustable shift linkage. The billet aluminum piece goes on the transmission and the shift rod attaches to it. It is adjustable to change the amount of throw in the shifter. Haven't hooked it up yet, but layed it in there and it looks like it will work.
Rusty

[rtarh2o]

As I stated above, removing the mounts was the hardest thing I have done so far. Below is the frame with the mount removed then a couple pictures of the engine in for a trial fitting with the mounts installed. It is getting exciting at this point!
Rusty

[rtarh2o]

Next step is to look at everything for a couple days, make sure it is all where I want it. I am sure the headers are not going to work but there seems to be plenty of room for the stock manifolds. I am going to lay them in and make sure it all fits then tack the mounts in and pull the engine again for some serious welding. At that time I am going to get the shift linkages working. The mounting plate for the transfer case lever doesn't quite line up in the center of the hole so I am going to have to re-work it as well. The instructions said the transfer case mount might have to be slotted to make it line up. But mine is off about 2 inches and would require moving the engine more than I want so I am probably going to make a new plate.
Enough for today
Rusty