94 FZJ80 6.2 conversion begins!

[rtarh2o]

Ok, so I guess my next question is, when I get it to where it feels like it is shifting correctly is it probably ok? With that said I will probably err on the side of a bit too harsh of shifting as too soft because from what I have read to soft is where you can damage your transmission.
I just got back from the transmission shop and the had the pan off and found some broken pieces in the pan, still wondering if the adjustment could have caused something to break?
Rusty

[Chas Stricker]

Howdy Rusty,
The shop that I had build mine said that the TV cable misadjustment could easily break the tranny. I also had the wrong gov and so it shifted odd. I don't know how I'd feel with the company that "fixed" it and adjusted it touching it again. It takes some doing but they can be built durable. If you want callRob McMullen at Scotty's Transmission....1.775.359.7676. Tell him they rebuilt a tranny for me in a FJ55 wagon with a turbo'd 6.2 and I loved it. Ask them for their thoughts.
Chas

[JimCrow]

Too loose burns clutches and too tight breaks things like sprags and drums. My pickup cable has an 1/8 pull on the cable when hooked up at idle, shifts good with that.
Jim

[rtarh2o]

They pulled the pan today and found looked at it when I was there. Sprag is the word they mentioned, I didn't know what that was but it sounds like it is from the cable being too tight? That actually makes me feel a bit better in the fact that maybe it is not a bad rebuild just not knowing how to adjust it correctly, that I might be able to remedy now that I have a little more knowledge. If I hadn't just paid them to rebuild it I would definitely be taking it somewhere else. This time I am not letting it leave there shop until I am happy with the shifting, I may have to help them do it but I want it to be done there so in case anything happens again they won't say it is my fault. I really need to find another shop but not sure what to do at this point. I don't think they would give me my money back but I am sure I would have a case considering they had it for over a month and I only drove it 2 weeks before it broke.
Live and learn, the rest of the conversion went so well I guess something was bound to happen.
Rusty

[JimCrow]

This is another name for a one way clutch, free wheels one way and locks up the other, this trans has two. One is called sprag & the other low roller clutch. The governor should have a green paint mark on it for a diesel, Dacco trans pt. # is 77410D.
Jim

[rtarh2o]

JimCrow, you are saying I can order a diesel governor? I ordered some springs and weights but never got the chance to install them. It would be nice to get the governor I will look into that. I am going to go check on it again today and try to talk to the owner about all of this. He is not there much and relies on his help too much. When I picked up the car last time he said one of his guys drove it and said it was good. I drove it around the block and brought it back and told them I thought it shifted too hard. They told me to bring it back after a couple thousand miles and they will adjust it then because they loosen up on their own. Now that I am armed with more information I think I can get them to get it right this time, I think they are so busy they thought it was good enough. Hopefully I can convince them that by spending a little more time getting the adjustment right will probably keep it from breaking again.
I am not holding my breath though but at least this time I think I can get it adjusted myself, probably better than they can.
Rutsy

[rtarh2o]

Good news today (sort of) they finally got the trans out and apart (pretty quick for them, only 2 weeks so far this time!) Turns out the rebuilder used a bolt that was too long and it was hitting what I think was the input drum. The problems were two fold, first there was the obvious problem of the bolt hitting and dragging on a major part (no telling what that was doing to the performance) and then there was the problem of the debris coming off of the bolt and drum making the throttle valve stick. I consider this good news in that they actually found a problem and I won't have to drive it wondering why it quit working. Assuming they can assemble it correctly it should be trouble free from now on. I also spoke with the owner and told him about the TV cable problem, he said he would do the adjustment himself this time and try to get it right. I am not counting on it being perfect when I get it back because I think a good part of the problem could be with my throttle attachment and TV cable bracket. I have all kinds of information on how it should be set up now so I am pretty confident I can get it right with a few mods once I get it home.
While I have been waiting on it this time I have sand blasted and painted a spare set of wheels I have. I am going to get tires this weekend. I also have a new Tiny Tach tachometer I am going to install. Will keep everyone posted on the progress.
Rusty

[Chas Stricker]

Howdy Rusty,
That sounds like good news. Keep on pushing and learning. I think you'll end up being "the" go to guy real soon.
Chas

[rtarh2o]

Chas, thanks, if I can help anyone benefit from my mistakes I will at least feel like it was all worth something. I am hoping this will be the last shop visit for awhile. I did check on it again today, they were about to start reassembling it and hopefully get it installed in the morning. Can't wait to drive it again, I have a few things I am anxious to get done on it this weekend, will post more then.
Rusty

[JimCrow]

Hello just wanted to say last person that removed the valvebody would the one to look at. it has different length bolts to mount it they have to be in the correct location. Hope this will be the correct all.
Good Luck,
Jimmy

[rtarh2o]

The guy that built the trans admitted he screwed up, put the wrong bolt in, he said he had probably built 1000 transmissions and that was a first. Anyway I am a bit relieved that it was an obvious problem and that I won't have to worry about why it broke and if it is going to happen again. I should get it back this week, it is on the bench and they have started re-assembly. The good news is that they have done it enough now that they can get the trans in and out in about 30 minutes! The exhaust goes on either side and over the transfer case so. The body lift makes the bellhousing bolts really easy to reach so I could probably do it myself in a couple hours. I think that is possibly the best thing about this engine is how easy everything is to get to and work on.
I bought a 40 gallon tank off of the mud classifieds and it came in today. Really nice, complete with pump, dual filler etc. Can't wait to get it in and have a 1300 mile cruising range! I better get my WVO going because I won't be able to afford 65 gallons of diesel!
I will post some pictures when I get it home and get all the new things installed.
Rusty

[rtarh2o]

Got it back from the transmission shop today, hopefully for the last time! It is a night and day difference, actually shifts like it should (feels like my old suburban did) It was probably a combination of the TV cable and trash from the broken and shaved parts from the rebuilder screw-up but nevertheless it is good now! While I was waiting to get the car back I got new tires mounted on an extra set of wheels I had, I debated for a long time about tires but finally decided to go with a set of Cooper Discoverer ATR's in 285/75's. I really considered some more aggressive A/T's but since about 95% of my driving is on the road I decided on the ATR's. I had a set on my old 80 and after 60,000 miles they still had decent tread left. I also painted the wheels a grey color, not sure if I like it yet but it is different. I got those put on today as well as a tiny tach (ordered that while I was waiting) so I could see what rpm's I am turning. On a brief run with the new tires it was turning about 2130 rpm @70 mph. I have read that 1800 rpm is the best for economy for the 6.2, I am right around there at 60 mph, not sure if I can drive that slowly but I am going to try various speeds on the next few road trips to see how it effects my mpg (although that won't matter as much once I get the WVO going) With the old tires I got 20 mpg on my only trip, I now know I must have been running around 2300 rpm on that trip so I think I can get a couple more mpg's out of it now with the larger tires.
I have a few more things to install in the coming weeks, a cruise control, a 40 gallon auxillary tank, a rear tire mount I am going to build (have to with the new tank) and roof rack. Not sure when I am going to get all of that done but I have a 1500 mile road trip mid June so hopefully by then.
Right now I am just enjoying driving it again and will get it cleaned up tomorrow and post some new pictures and may even attempt a video!
Rusty

[Chas Stricker]

Rusty glad to hear it is shifting as it should. Do you have a tranny temp gauge yet? Keep us informed,
Chas

[lorax]

Randy, can you post where you got the RPM gauge and a pic of it mounted? I tried to get the stock one working, but could not, so now I am thinking I need a small tach to put at the bottom of the pillar.

Thanks.

[rtarh2o]

It is called a Tiny Tach, really nice. I bought it on ebay because it was cheaper than buying it from the manufacturer. Right now I just have it double stick taped to the plastic covering the gauges, over on the left side (under the temp gauge) It is a really nice little unit, about 1"x3", light so you can see it at night. I think it cost about $70 and took about 30 minutes to hook up. My thought is that it is just going to be temporary until I can get the factory tach working. In order to get the factory tach to work I am going to have to get a transmitter that takes a signal off of the alternator. But since it is made for an 8 cylinder engine I was going to have to calibrate it with a different tach, so I bought the Tiny Tach to use temporarily and eventually to calibrate the factory tach if I ever get around to it.
The past week I have just been enjoying driving it, made another road trip with new tires, didn't check the mileage because about half of the mileage was in town with the bad transmission so it wouldn't have been accurate (it was around 15) but I still think that I could get low 20's if I could drive 65ish.
Powerwise I am still pleased, it is very similar to the 1FZE or maybe the 3FE, slow but not enough to really bother me. Acceleration from a dead stop is very good, highway passing is another story, but with the gearing I am turning about 2130 rpm at 70 which makes it somewhat responsive when you need to go. Nothing but good things so far, for the price I don't think it can be beat.
Rusty
Hope to post some pictures this week as well as some video

[kcustom73]

Happy to see that you finally got it on the road.

My 75-40 project has slow down a bit with the nice weather and having promissed the "boss" that I would finish the landscaping at the house this year. I'm hoping at getting back in the garage on week nights so that the project doesn't slow down to much. I need to pull the 700R4 off of the 6.2 so that I can start prepping the engine for the rebuild. I'm still debating if I want to go turbo or not.

Did you do any work to the engine before dropping it into the 80. Have you done any performance mods to it yet (turning up the IP). I would think the 80 weights more then the 40, so maybe a updated N/A 6.2 (sort of like Dr.Lee from the diesel page), a way to get good air in, headers and large exhaust would give a good engine for the 40... This is one of my main debates on this project right now...

Let us know how the long trip goes

[rtarh2o]

I didn't do a thing to the engine except change the oil. It was a military take-out engine so it is the most powerful of the 6.2's. I wanted to drive it first then decide. I am using a stock air cleaner with drier vent hose going from the air cleaner to the fender where the stock Land Cruiser hose went. It seems to work fine. As I have said, it is not fast but so far I am very happy with it, no thought of a turbo right now. If I end up towing much with it I might change my mind but I think even towing will be fine if I don't encounter many hills.
As far as the engine in a 40 I think I would prefer it NA instead of the turbo. I had an 80 FJ40 years ago that had a 383 V-8, it was scary to drive. I don't want that much power in a 40. I would just use the 6.2 stock, you can probably fit the military headers in the 40, that would help, but that is all I would do.
Good luck, I hope to do the same to my 40 this Fall.
Rusty

[kcustom73]

Rusty, thanks for info. I didn't drive my 40 very long before I started the restoration and have never driven in any vehicles with the 6.2 (that I can remember). It's good to here from somebody with first hand experience with a 6.2 in a cruiser. I would imagine the 80 is heavier then the 40 so a slittly modified N/A 6.2 in a 40 should be fine. I'm happy I found this thread before I started spending any big $$$ on my project.
Kevin

[smileyboy]

Now that u have been driving for a bit. Is there any change in fuel economy? Also, howe the video and pictures coming?

[rtarh2o]

I just put 160 miles on it today with my WVO blend, it ran great, a bit of surging at first but smoothed out fine and really smells pretty good.
As far as mileage I really think it could get about 22 or so, I will let you know when I get home Tuesday. I am trying to drive between 65-70 and that is still turning about 2040 rpm. The optimum rpm for mileage is about 1800 rpm, that is about 60 mph, not sure if I can drive that slow on the interstate but it would be interesting to see what it would do. The last trip in which I got 20 mpg I drove the same speed but I had the smaller tires so I am expecting more than 20 this time.
So far things are finally going well, the transmission is not perfect but drivable. The biggest complaint is that I had a hydraulic lock-out kit put in it and it trys to lock out too soon in 3rd gear and sometimes doesn't want to unlock making the car sort of lunge when slowing. I am hoping there is a way to remedy that but haven't even started researching it, just trying to get higher priority items done now.
I will get some pics and video posted when I get home on Tuesday.
Rusty

[fzjconvert]

Originally Posted by rtarh2o

I just put 160 miles on it today with my WVO blend, it ran great, a bit of surging at first but smoothed out fine and really smells pretty good.
As far as mileage I really think it could get about 22 or so, I will let you know when I get home Tuesday. I am trying to drive between 65-70 and that is still turning about 2040 rpm. The optimum rpm for mileage is about 1800 rpm, that is about 60 mph, not sure if I can drive that slow on the interstate but it would be interesting to see what it would do. The last trip in which I got 20 mpg I drove the same speed but I had the smaller tires so I am expecting more than 20 this time.
So far things are finally going well, the transmission is not perfect but drivable. The biggest complaint is that I had a hydraulic lock-out kit put in it and it trys to lock out too soon in 3rd gear and sometimes doesn't want to unlock making the car sort of lunge when slowing. I am hoping there is a way to remedy that but haven't even started researching it, just trying to get higher priority items done now.
I will get some pics and video posted when I get home on Tuesday.
Rusty

Hey any videos or numbers?

[rtarh2o]

Just an update since my last post. I was planning on posting some pictures this morning but it is raining! Anyway, I now have over 1,000 on a WVO blend, no problems so far, starts up and runs just like on diesel but my mileage has dropped to about 18 on the highway. I have read that running WVO retards the timing so maybe if I advance it a bit I will get the mileage back but since my fuel cost is under $1.00 per gallon it is not too big of a concern.
Since the last post I have added a flex-a-lite dual 13.5" electric fan set-up, it now runs nice and cool no matter how long I sit in traffic but on the highway it runs a bit warmer than what I want. This surprised me but after discussing it on the Diesel Place forum I was told the 6.2's don't develop much heat at idle. I have decided it could be the radiator. The radiator I have is a newer 2 core, I have the original 3 core radiator that came out of the 94 so I am planning on getting it cleaned and installed. At the time of my installation I wasn't aware (or even noticed) there was a 2 core and a 3 core available but after looking at them the 3 core is noticeably larger. After a little research I have found (in other vehicles anyway) that a 3 core radiator can flow as much as 50% more than a 2 core, wish I had known all of this a few months ago! Fortunately it isn't too big of a job swapping the radiator on the Land Cruiser. Since the 6.2 develops more heat running it is possible the smaller radiator just doesn't flow enough. The flex-a-lite fans are great though, they have an adjustable thermostat so you can set it to come on at any temperature, they come on at only 60% and slowly increase to 100% if needed. They are quiet and really well made and easy to install. Highly recommended.
I also just got it back from hopefully the final trip to a new transmission shop (I didn't want to wait another 6 weeks for the place I had used, plus I am not real happy with their work). I decided after the last couple weeks of lurching while coasting and stopping to order an electric TC lock-up kit and have it installed. I just got it back yesterday, they also said the TV cable was out of adjustment. It is like night and day, the shifts are much softer and better spaced and I can tell it doesn't lock up until after being in 4th for a couple seconds. Now it unlocks with a touch of the brake pedal so stopping is much more pleasant.
Next on the list is my 40 gallon auxillary tank and cruise control.
Hope to get some pictures posted as soon as the sun comes out.
Rusty

[GM60]

Rusty,
Awesome thread and I've really enjoyed reading it!
You have shown a ton of heart solving all those dramas to get to where you are now.

I've been running a 6.2 in a 5 speed 60 for almost 8 years now.
I run a stock fan ,with stock shroud, and an original Toyota fan clutch which I have refilled with new goo.
I've also set the fan clutch cut-in temp to suit the 6.2.
Radiator is 3 core.
The biggest influence, providing the radiator is good, is the airflow through the radiator, both from the fan and also through the grille at highway speed.
I don't run any spotlights on the bullbar of this vehicle in the interest of maintaining an unrestricted airflow to the radiator cores at cruising speeds.
Regardless of how much airflow is able to reach the front of the radiator at speed, you will still need the fan to cut in to assist when needed, especially when the ambient temp is up, the air conditioner is set on high, the vehicle is loaded and pulling up a long hill.

My 6.2 overtakes at highway speeds real well, even when heavily loaded, but it didn't do so when I first fitted it. Had to change a couple of things to get it all happening!

Does your motor rev right out to 3500 and pull strong all the way?

[rtarh2o]

GM60, thanks, I have actually enjoyed most of it, if I had just picked the right transmission shop in the first place most of the frustrations would have been eliminated and I would have been driving it about 3 months earlier. As far as performance, I haven't gotten it to 3,500 rpm yet but it pulls really strong from about 1,800 on to wherever the 700R4 decides to shift. I wish I could have gone with a 5 speed but sourcing the parts for an 80 5-speed would probably be tough. As far as cooling, the weather was a few degrees cooler yesterday (only about 90º) on my little 150 mile road trip and the temperature stayed right on 195º the whole way so it was either the lower air temperature or the fact that I plugged the wire back in that makes the fans run with the A/C on. I don't have anything blocking airflow in the front of the vehicle so I think the 3 core radiator should be all I need.

[rtarh2o]

Another update. I have driven another 500 or so trouble free miles. Spent the weekend installing a 40 gallon auxiliary tank with dual filler neck, the install was pretty easy just time consuming. The hardest part was the dual filler neck, had to cut the stock filler tube. The instructions should have mentioned doing this before installing the tank, would have been much easier but it is finished now I just need to clean enough of my WVO blend to fill the tank and see how it works. It is a pretty cool set-up, there is a pump that pumps fuel from the auxiliary tank into the stock tank when you push the button. Can't wait to try it out. I have not installed my 3 core radiator, It is doing fine without it but I plan to do it soon, I will need it when I tow or get into the mountains, don't have any plans to do either soon but will feel better getting it done sooner instead of later. The transmission is doing great, I have no problems recommending a 700R4 to anyone now. The more I drive this engine the more I love it, can't explain it but it just feels good. It vibrates a bit more on idle than I would like, probably due to the engine mounts, I might research it a bit and change them out, wouldn't be too difficult, just more time laying under the car. (I am a bit sore today from my tank install)
The Flex-a-Lite fans are still great, well worth the money. I am beginning to see the light at the end of the tunnel, only things I really have left to do are the cruise control, install a WVO specific fuel pump and install my 3 core radiator. Each one is pretty simple so in a couple weekends I should have it finished and start on the next project!
I still plan to post some pictures and hopefully some video!
Rusty