94 FZJ80 6.2 conversion begins!

[Chas Stricker]

Howdy Rusty,
I think I would trust the Diesel Page. They really seem to know their stuff. I don't remember what model of Carter I used. It was low pressure high volume for a carb engine. Five years later I never needed the spare. I was always trying to have a "just in case" plan and parts if something went to poo. I used two in series because of a dual inline tank set-up I made for offroad angles. My main tank (64 gallons) would sometimes starve on left hand extreme tilts. My secondary tank (1 gallon) was used as a feeder for the engine at any angle (I never had it upside down). I never used WVO straight only mixed with my pump fuel. The only other issue that some have had is with water in the fuel. Get you pump fuel at locations that turn it over and you'll not have that issue. Good luck I really think you'll love the drivetrain,
Chas

[FL cruiser]

I’ve found that none of the electric pumps work as well as a mechanical pump for pumping WVO or thick viscosity fluids. I’ve tried various brands and types. Of the electrics, the cheap plunger type works the best.
Since you are mixing and thinning WVO, anything should be ok.
But why not just use the mechanical pump? It will draw better, prime faster and may be better in out of the ordinary conditions.

[rtarh2o]

It runs!, sort of!
Got home in time today to make a trip to auto zone and pick up a pump. Model E8012 S (I think) it is the one recommended on the diesel page with the same set-up. I am running it with my mechanical pump, not sure why but makes me feel good knowing that if one quits there is always another. I got it installed, changed the fuel routing around (again!) and installed a pressure gauge before the IP. I also installed a new thermostat because I couldn't get my temp gauge working (possibly because it never ran more than 7 minutes). I also tightened a couple belts. After all of this I finally started it up. It idled great with both pumps running. After about 15 minutes idling I decided the problem was solved so I backed it out of the driveway and headed around our block. The engine was great but the transmission wouldn't shift, then started slipping! The transmission/exhaust shop that had it for a month never got around to adjusting the transmission because they couldn't get it running. My plan was to get it running a drive it back to them but by the time I got back around the block to my house (about 1 mile) it was barely moving. I hope I didn't cause any damage. I am not sure if it is cable adjustment, overfilled etc but it is going back to the shop tomorrow. My delima is, what shop? I feel like I should take it to the guys that had it before but I am afraid it will take another month, so I am probably going to take to take it to another transmission shop I have used before that is very quick. The only reason I took it to the other place before was because it was the only place that could do the transmission work and exhaust, made sense at the time.
Anyway, the engine sounds great, a little louder than I thought but not any worse than any other diesel. I happened to pull up to an Isuzu NPR truck today and rolled my window down to listen to the engine to compare it to the 6.2, sounded about the same and it is supposed to be a relatively quiet engine so I guess it is about as good as can be expected. It is a sound I am sure I will grow to love. I used to drive my father's Ford 6.9 diesel and it is definitely quieter than that!
Anyway, progress is being made, I was hoping to get to drive it tomorrow but it looks like it is back to the shop, hopefully just for the day though. Will post more tomorrow.
Rusty

[fzjconvert]

Yeah! GOOD JOB! I am really glad that you got it working. I have been keeping my fingers crossed for you... Looking forward to all the particulars. IMO don't take it back to the last shop, a month for job that should have taking at most a week is way to long. No matter where you live, those guys took advantage of your obvious good nature. After all you were not asking for anything free. They were just cherry picking. It also doesn't matter if they had there own problems, employees sick, car problems. That is not your problem, you are the customer and you are giving them your hard earned money. So they should treat you with respect and not shove you to the back burner... MY .10 cents.. Anyway post some pictures when you get a chance.

[kcustom73]

Good work Rusty. Gives me motivation for mine. I've have found someone selling a complete 89 Vandura with 6.2 and a rebuilt 700R4 for $800. Hopefully I can get it for less. Good to see that there a few of you out there that have done this and that I will have some brain's to pick when I do mine. From everything I've read, I think the 6.2 will make a good engine for my daily driven 75 FJ40. Keep up the good work and keep us posted on how it's going.

[Dazza]

x2 on going to the quick shop. that's jsut not professional, and borderline extortion in my book. but ia am kinda crazy about my truck... you will learn to love the clackity diesel noise, at least I did with the wifey's

kcustom73... just bring only the amount of cash you wanna pay, and if he doesnt take it walk away with cash in hand(make sure to show him the cash before you go)... you can always come back later with more $, but everytime i started walking with cash in hand they call me back. I saved $3000 off the cost of a used 300sd mercedes turbodiesel for the old lady. I've done it a lot, only had to come back with more cash once.

good luck,

[rtarh2o]

I am going to take it to the shop that has been quick for me in the past. The only reason I didn't use them this time is because I thought it would be easy to just take it to one shop and get both things done. Live and learn.
I went out and started it up again tonight and just sat in it for about 15 minutes, the noise outside the car isn't bad, inside is pretty loud. I am going to try to do some good sound deadening in the next couple weeks. Next I need to get the A/C hooked up (we are already using it here in Texas) and it is pretty much finished.
Kcustom73, $800 sounds like a good deal as is, if the engine is nice and you are sure the trans has been rebuilt I would do it. Great if you can get it cheaper, but $800 is good. Especially considering you will get all the little brackets and things I had to spend days looking for. I think you can rebuild the engine pretty inexpensively, the best thing about this engine is how simple it is. While trying to get mine running the other day I only had about 1-1/2 hours for lunch. In that amount of time I pulled the intake manifold, repaired a leak and re-installed it, pulled the fuel pump and re-installed it correctly and one other thing I can't remember right now. To do any one of those things on the stock FZJ80 would have taken me all day!
By the way, I have a 78 FJ40 that is next to be restored, if I like this engine as much as I hope I am going to I will drop one in my 40 too.
Rusty

[kcustom73]

Rusty, I always told myself if I did this swap I would get a complete parts vehicle to make life easier. I like the idea that this egine is fairly simple. I'm trying to go all mechanical on the FJ40 and the 6.2 is a good start (even if I go turbo). The 75 FJ40 is almost completely stripped to the frame. Only the suspension and the axles are left. I sort of want to get the 6.2 and 700R4 and get the brackets installed on the frame before I clean up and paint the frame (don't feel like doing things twice). Keep us informed on the progress.

Dazza, nice way of getting a used vehicle. Might have to try it out.

[rtarh2o]

It should be a great engine for the 40, after I get the 80 finished I will probably get back on my 40, I was just about to take the body off when I stopped working on it a couple years ago.
Good luck with it
Rusty

[Chas Stricker]

Rusty,
The adjustment to get close is really easy. I'll of course forget the official name, but, it's the T.V.(?) cable. Call your "quick" shop and tell them you're affraid to screw the tranny up just getting it to them and ask about the adjustment. It goes something like this: Find the blackish plastic housing on the throttle body(butterfly). Here's where my memory goes south. You either release the clip and push the cable to its stop or pull the throttle once you have the clip(retainer) released. Then in that position pop the clip secure. It is kind of picky for perfection or durability but to get you down to the tranny shop you'll be fine. I adjusted mine then let the pros fine tune it. Don't pour the coals to it until this is done. My first one was for a gasser and not adjusted perfectly and oops, it took a dump.
Chas

[rtarh2o]

I had it towed to the reliable, quick transmission shop today (the one I should have used the first time) I was pretty sure the TV cable was set close and it was still slipping badly. The guy that had the first time for a month the first time said sometimes when a fresh rebuild sits for awhile before being used a pressure spring (something like that) sticks inside the trans. After the shop today adjusted a couple things they said it was a bit better but they are sure now it is that spring that is stuck. To repair this they have to pull the pan so they had to keep it overnight. Sounds promising, hopefully I can get it picked up at lunch and actually drive it home this time!
Will keep you posted.
Rusty

[Chas Stricker]

Good to know Rusty. It sounds like this outfit is way better than the last you used. Did I happen to mention putting a much larger cooler than what you think you might need? I also used a tranny temp gauge. You could put the sending unit in the out tranny line but a more accurate spot is a hole above the shifter if I remember. I takes the temperature at the pump which is the high temp spot.
Chas

[kcustom73]

Rusty, the van is in the driveway and I start pulling out the tranny and 6.2 this weekend. Got it for $650. From your expereience (or anybody else that's done a 6.2 swap) are there any parts/brackets I should really make sure to pull of of the van?

[rtarh2o]

Great buy! I bet you can't wait. It really goes pretty fast, at least the big stuff. You really don't need much except for the engine trans and all accessories. I would also get the hydroboost brake system off and keep all hoses. Make sure you take a good look at everything, take lots of pictures. Also take most of the wiring along with it, you may not use alot of it, the van probably has alot of stuff you won't use so you can eliminate those wires but having the glow plug system and wiring and the IP wiring will be nice (I had to make my own which still wasn't a big deal)
If I were doing it I would try to take it out and place it in the framerails of the 40 first thing. Make sure you have all accessories and fan on it. Also make sure the radiator is installed. Figure out where you are going to put your mounts then take it back out, clean, rebuild, whatever you plan to do.
As for my 6.2 FZJ80 (I need a new name for it) the transmission shop called this afternoon and said it was finished, unfortunately I had to stay late at work and couldn't pick it up so will have to go in the morning. I will post as soon as I get it back what I think!
Rusty

[rtarh2o]

I wasn't clear on the engine/trans mounts. In the 80 at least I used the Toyota transfer and transmission mounts. I assume you will do the same with the 40. The engine mounts were from Advance Adapters, they are easy to do, don't look like the strongest but the say they use them with big blocks so if that is the case they should be fine. They were inexpensive and came complete with everything you need.
Good luck, post some pictures of what you have so far. I want to hear how you like it in a 40.
Rusty

[Dazza]

you might want to consider scrapping the glow plug system from the van. they use a 6 volt system in order to have the plugs heat up faster, but they also burn out faster, and if they overheat they will break off, fall in the cylinder, and poof, your done. Also, the automatic timer setup is one of the main parts that fails a lot on these motors, so you may as well set it up to be reliable from the start.

My motor came from the mechanic I bought it from with 12v plugs, and I am going to use a push button switch mounted on the dash to activate. (you would just have to hold it down for 7-10 seconds) that would be hooked up to a ford style solenoid and activate the plugs at the push of the button. Make sure to use a push button switch, so you can't accidentally leave it on too long and burn the plugs up (and poof, you'd be done again)

good luck, I can't wait till I have enough cash together to get the remaining parts and start my swap!

[rtarh2o]

I bought a variable glow plug timer for mine from Peninsular Diesel. It is pretty nice, it hooks up through your ignition so it works just like the factory, no button to push. It is adjustable so you can set how long it stays on according to the weather. It was expensive (I think around $175?) but I like it being like the factory unit. Also bear in mind that the exhaust manifolds you have may not fit but don't worry about it because there are several different styles used for that engine. I got mine back from the transmission shop today, only got to drive it home because it has a fuel leak and one of the transmission cooler lines is leaking (you would think the transmission shop would fix that!) so I parked it at home and will work on it a bit more this afternoon. The shift points still aren't quite right but until I get my tires on it in the next day or two it would be pointless to try to get them any better. It drove well, didn't really go very far but it was the longest trip so far. It is a bit loud on acceleration but I don't have all of the interior back in it yet and I think alot of the noise is coming up from the shifter area since I don't have the housing around it. I will put that back on this afternoon and put some insulation in with it to see if I can quiet it down a bit. I will post more this evening Rusty

[kcustom73]

Rusty, where the motor mounts you got from Advance adpaters for a GM/Chevy small block or do they have specific ones for the 6.2? I'll have to check it out. It will be a while before my 40 is on the road. I calculate that it is a 3 winter project. Thanks for the help and I'll try and keep my build up thread up to date.

Dazza, thanks for the info on the push button glow plug system. I was thinking of doing something like this just to get away from the failure prone controler and to also be able to go to the better 12V glow plugs.

Are any of you (or planning of) using the stud girdle (sp?) and phaser timming gear set from DSG? If the block web isn't cracked I think the stud girdle is a good idea. What about going to a higher flow water pump for protection? I know the 6.2 doesn't like the heat so it might good protection.

[rtarh2o]

The mounts I got were for the SBC. They are pretty simple, not sure how the rubber will hold up but it isn't too big of a deal to replace it either. So far I haven't done any of the preventive things, I have just been trying to get it going as fast as possible, hopefully I won't regret it.
My Fj40 restoration began about 6 years ago, it has been sidelined quite awhile for other things. I am hoping to get back on it soon but after spending the last 5 months working on pretty much nothing but my FZJ80 I think my wife might have other ideas!
Rusty

[Dazza]

I have been told very firmly that i should avoid the small block rubber from motor mounts if I don't want to replace them. these individuals swore that at napa i could buy diesel rubber that is tougher, and won't need replacing as soon. they also said that most employees at napa didn't know there was a difference in the two, and were surprised to find out there were in fact 2 different rubber parts.

others have said that's bull... i don't know what to believe as I haven't bought any yet... anyone else know for sure?

[Chas Stricker]

I used the momentary button on the dash for 6 seconds and the off and so on until it starts. You do need to be careful not to over time the glow plugs because when they crap out the can be nearly impossible to remove without breaking. With a bad one that breaks you have to pull the head to get all the parts out. There are different compounds of rubber for the motor mounts. The mounts are a "captured" type so nothing really bad happens if they fail...just a little more movement and noise. I also used the hydroboost brake booster because of the power steering conversion and hydrualic winch. As for noise.... the turbo really quiets it down even without a muffler. Rusty how is the tranny shifting?
Chas

[Dazza]

thanks chas, i think i will look for the diesel rubber compound mounts.

[kcustom73]

I have seen rebuildebale motor mounts from Mark4WD.

diesel motor mounts

FYI, I've just ordered the 3 books from the diesel page about the 6.2. Almost twenty years of info on these engine. Should make for some interesting reading. If you guys ever have any questions or issue with these engine, let me know and I can look it up in the books to see if there is a solution. I plan to rebuild my engine into the most reliable engine I can make it while running bio-diesel and also adding a bit of performance to it. So I'm hoping the books will help with doing this once and not wasting any money for stupid ideas.

Found a local shop that is really good at rebuilding engine. Will have to go see him and see what he can do with the engine, but first I have to fit the engine onto the frame and get all the brackets installed so that I can at least finish the frame.

[Ruadhrigh]

Originally Posted by rtarh2o

As for my 6.2 FZJ80 (I need a new name for it) Rusty

how 'bout

FZJ6.2 or FZJ86.2

[rtarh2o]

FYI, I've just ordered the 3 books from the diesel page about the 6.2. Almost twenty years of info on these engine. Should make for some interesting reading. If you guys ever have any questions or issue with these engine, let me know and I can look it up in the books to see if there is a solution. I plan to rebuild my engine into the most reliable engine I can make it while running bio-diesel and also adding a bit of performance to it. So I'm hoping the books will help with doing this once and not wasting any money for stupid ideas.
I bought those books before I even got my engine, mainly just as research to see if I was going to go that direction. They are good books and convinced me the 6.2 was a good way to go, enjoy. Rusty

[rtarh2o]

I have about 18 miles on the FZJ80 6.2, so far so good. I finally think I have the fuel leaks repaired. I decided to go with the electric pump instead of the mechanical pump because it is much more tolerant of leaks (the electric pushes the fuel out of the leaks, the mechanical pulls air in through the leaks) now that i hopefully have them fixed it won't be a problem but if I develop one down the road at least it will keep running. I have discovered that the majority of the noise from this engine comes from the intake! The factory actually made a muffler that went on the snorkle of the intake, I don't have that because of the restriction so I made a hose running out to the stock location in the passenger fender. I might get the muffler to see if I notice any lack of performance, or I might just get used to the noise. At cruising speed it is actually quite nice, obviously louder than the 1FZE but a pleasant sound and I have a pretty free flowing exhaust set-up. The transmission is still not right but after I get larger tires I am going to take it somewhere and have it dialed in, It is not really bad just annoying in the fact that it doesn't appear to shift at the right times. Powerwise, it has been about a year and a half since I have driven an 80 but I would say from what I remember it is about the same. I will know more once I get it out for a road trip, probably won't be this weekend because I found another problem I need to fix. I noticed the belts were bouncing a bit and thought they were loose so I tightened them and they still bounced. They were also getting frayed (I thought maybe they were just a little too wide) I took a good look at the crank pulley and noticed it has a little wobble to it. It is not the military pulley, I got it from a salvage yard somewhere so it could have been a frontend accident. I am going to see if the military pulley will fit (it is a 4 groove and may be too long) but it is really solid, I don't think there is any way it would bend! Besides that I have a leak in my transmission cooler lines (unfortunately at the transmission, tough to get to) so I need to fix that as well.
After that it is off to the AC shop to get it hooked up and then it is good to go! At least I am getting to drive it around and play with it now, I am going to take it tomorrow to get it liscensed.
Will post more as I go and hope to get some video on soon.
Rusty