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Old 11-05-07, 11:50 AM   #31
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Amsoil Heavy Duty Diesel Oil.

5W-30


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Old 11-05-07, 07:53 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bj70_guy View Post
I used Delo 400 15-40 for years in my BJ70, but recently started using the Tech 2000 15-40 "Premium Diesel" in the 20L pail from Wal-Mart. The specs are nearly identical to delo 400 and it's <$30 for the pail. I change the oil @ 3000 miles.
I'll NEVER run that shit again in MY 3B, never mind the 1HD-T! OK, I'll calm down... I meant about the semi synthetic version. It's thicker than regular Rotella 15W40 at -20, baaad for winter!

Rotella is the ideal oil for the 3B, not sure yet about the 1HD-T. I'm seriously contemplating using Amsoil 15W40, if the price is right, that is. With the US dollar down, it may become affordable for us cannucks. Or I may try the 5W40 synthetic Rotella. I'm not decided yet.

Lat winter I used Mobil 1 15W50 synthetic, and it never slowed cranking in really cold weather. But I had to replenish it at a rate of 1l every 5,000km or so. I'm definitely sold on synthetic, it's just that it's so expensive, I wish there was an on- board oil analysis computer to tell me when I should replace or replenish the oil... Easier to justify a 100$ oil change then, if it will actually last 20,000k...


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Old 11-05-07, 10:28 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 83bj60 View Post
I'll NEVER run that shit again in MY 3B, never mind the 1HD-T! OK, I'll calm down... I meant about the semi synthetic version. It's thicker than regular Rotella 15W40 at -20, baaad for winter!
Who said anything about semi-synthetic?
This is plain old dino oil, with specs VERY similar to Delo 400.

Delo 400 - CI-4, CH-4, CG-4, CF-4, CF, CE, CD/SL, SH, SJ

Wal Mart - CI-4, CH-4, CG-4, CF-4, CF-2, CF, SH, SL, SJ

I change my oil religiously at 2500 - 3000 miles. Since I started keeping a beater car several years ago, I also don't put big miles on my Cruisers anymore, so a 20K mile drain interval could be 3 years for me. I'd rather have fresh dino every 5 months or so. Bonus - the beater diesel Jetta runs the cheap oil too.
If I lived in a cold climate I would definitely run a winter weight synthetic. But we don't get -20 here, so 15-40 is just fine year round.


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Old 11-05-07, 10:54 PM   #34
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Here's some info from an Aussie I've had some dealings with. I believe it's a HZJ105 with an aftermarket turbo.
Not sure if the formatting will work, but it shows that 15,000km oil change intervals are possible with his engine without risking damage.













Lab Number
Sample Number
122600
121421
122161
Date Sampled
14/10/2007
14/07/2007
11/05/2007
4/02/2007
Date Received
22/10/2007
18/07/2007
12/05/2007
11/05/2007
Date Reported
25/10/2007
19/07/2007
13/05/2007
12/05/2007
Machine
235000
230000
225000
220000
Oil Age
15000
10000
5000
5000
Oil
PENRITE
PENRITE
PENRITE
VALVOLINE
Oil Make
HPR50
HPR 50
HPR 50
SUPER DIESEL
Oil Type
15W50
15W50
15W50
15W/40
Oil Grade
0
0
1
Oil Added
0
0
0
Filter Age
Metals / Additives
Aluminium (Al)
<1
2
1
1
Copper (Cu)
<1
<1
<1
<1
Chromium (Cr)
<1
<1
<1
<1
Iron (Fe)
19
14
5
11
Lead (Pb)
<1
5
6
6
Tin (Sn)
<1
<1
<1
<1
Magnesium (Mg)
6
44
37
12
Molybdenum (Mo)
<1
3
3
2
Boron (B)
12
93
95
3
Sodium (Na)
2
<1
<1
<1
Potassium (K)
<1
<1
<1
<1
Calcium (Ca)
56
2930
295
3213
Zinc (Zn)
86
1103
1150
1238
Phosphorous (P)
256
808
948
1030
Silicon (Si)
1
5
4
3
FTIR Analysis
Soot
88
59
38
46
Glycol
<1
<1
Oxidation
4
2
2
5
Nitration
4
2
2
3
Water
<0.1
<0.1
<0.1
<0.1
Physical Tests
Viscosity @40
13.6
13.2
Viscosity @100
17.4
17.5
17.2
14.1
TBN
9
10.9
PQ Index
15
16
17
11
Fuel
0%
0%
0%
0%


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Old 11-05-07, 11:44 PM   #35
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I use whatever is availible for free.
This really messes with my oil change interville!
Filter changes are pretty random, too.
Its only a Toyota!


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Old 11-06-07, 12:25 AM   #36
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I run amsoil 15-40 and a frantz bypass. Oil is noticably cleaner even after a few thousand km. I change the oil on my birthday, that way I cant forget. The Tp roll every 5000K or when I remember... doh.
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Old 11-06-07, 09:57 AM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by matt 105 View Post
I use whatever is availible for free.
This really messes with my oil change interville!
Filter changes are pretty random, too.
Its only a Toyota!
Love the heathty common sense attitude of the Aussies regarding Toyota and Landcruisers... Here they are so rare (and so much better than the local ērap) they are held as Gods

Don't look at me, I'm guilty as well


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Old 11-06-07, 10:04 AM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gerg View Post
I run amsoil 15-40 and a frantz bypass. Oil is noticably cleaner even after a few thousand km. I change the oil on my birthday, that way I cant forget. The Tp roll every 5000K or when I remember... doh.
That's great, I should look into it myself... Are you running a gas or a diesel engine in your truck?


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Old 11-07-07, 06:55 PM   #39
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Hey M Galt....

Sorry if I'm repeating myself, I'm just having a bit of trouble with the whole putting straight canola into the tank. You really don't do anything to it, just dump it in at about a 10% mix? Dosen't this get wicked expensive? canola is like 5 or 6 times the price of diesel, isn't it? Or is it available in bulk much cheeper?
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Old 11-07-07, 07:31 PM   #40
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I can vouch for M John on the price. I am in Whitehorse right now and I saw diesel at around $1.50 CAN / Liter. You can buy canola oil at Superstore in bulk cheaper here. In cold weather down south, I wouldn't go over 5%. I am not sure up here when it is down to -30 C you would want to risk going over 1-2%. Even winter diesel clouds in extreme cold and anti gel additives need to be put in it.
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Old 11-07-07, 08:05 PM   #41
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Last winter I got some Arctic winter grade #1 ULSD and mixed different proportions with clear NON-hydrogenated canola oil I got in 16L containers at the Superstore. I observed the cloud point temperature of the mixes and made this graph.



I run up to 20% in the hot summer and a minimum of 6% all winter.

The ULSD and canola are premixed at 50-50 into a fuel container before pouring in the tank. Before it gets to -20°C I fill a few fuel containers with the 50-50 mix. Below -20°C I let the 'jerry can' of fuel mix come up to room temperature before pouring in the tank and topping up with ULSD.
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Old 11-07-07, 09:46 PM   #42
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This page has some useful info on various VO properties:

http://vegburner.co.uk/oils.htm
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Old 11-07-07, 10:41 PM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cruiser_guy View Post
I try to get an oil which is the latest technology even though my truck is 25+ years old.
This is not always a good thing, there was a discussion about this at bobistheoilguy.com, as additive packages have recently changed when the diesel surfur contant was changed, and some people are saying the newer lubricants with less zinc and phosphorous (IIRC, don't quote me!) are not as good as the older ones, to comply with the new emissions standards.

Like I said I don't remember exactly, but it's definitely worth checking out.


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