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Old 06-16-08, 04:41 PM   #61
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Originally Posted by Tapage View Post
I'm not clear on that .. it not only allow more fuel at higher alt .. coz I turn up my fuel there and im at sea level .. so it need to do something else in the hole range of fuel ..



Thanks .. clear as mud ..
How did you turn up your fuel? By spinning the HAC, correct? Spinning it away from the "stop' lever?


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Old 06-17-08, 11:39 AM   #62
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Originally Posted by lowenbrau View Post
How did you turn up your fuel? By spinning the HAC, correct? Spinning it away from the "stop' lever?
Gotcha ! sorry was a long day yesterday here at the office ..


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Old 08-19-08, 07:58 AM   #63
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Hello, thanks to everybody for the great info. I have recently bought a 1982 BJ60 with the 3B, and it shows the symtoms of needing a diaphram replacement. I notice people have been listing the part number, does anybody know of a place to order one, through the web? I'll check around town with the parts guys I deal with, but any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks, Eric
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Old 08-19-08, 05:47 PM   #64
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Hello, again. I looked around the site a bit more and found what I was looking for. 4wheelauto.com had the part I was looking for. Thanks, and I'll check back for more info, and hopefully help someone out myself, Eric
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Old 08-20-08, 03:48 AM   #65
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Hello, again. I looked around the site a bit more and found what I was looking for. 4wheelauto.com had the part I was looking for. Thanks, and I'll check back for more info, and hopefully help someone out myself, Eric
Glad you found one alright Eric.

They seem to be very readily available. (I got my last one from a local diesel service shop.)



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Old 09-26-08, 02:44 PM   #66
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Hey everybody. I just changed the diaphram on my cruiser. The motor is running alot better. The idle is back down to normal, and it doesn't put out a huge cloud of smoke when it's running. I really appreciate the help of this forum, without the info found here, I would've had a headache. With the help it wasn't too bad. Thanks again, Eric
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Old 10-07-08, 08:47 AM   #67
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Originally Posted by lostmarbles View Post
And here's another photo that would be a good addition to this thread and my earlier reference to "sucking on a hose" to test your diaphragm:

Attachment 213419

I'm going to have to check but your hose are crossing each other, doesn't seem to be that way on my truck.


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Last edited by eleblanc; 10-07-08 at 09:24 AM.
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Old 10-07-08, 09:17 AM   #68
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I had no idle issues, nor black smoke (just the familair white/gray at start-up, virtually nothing once warm, but my IP gasket where the diaphragm is, is leaky. I was told to replace the diaphrams and gasket, but have not yet done so. Was I misled?


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Old 10-07-08, 03:37 PM   #69
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I'm going to have to check but your hose are crossing each other, doesn't seem to be that way on my truck.
Don't worry. I think the crossed-hoses could be unique to the B-engine.

I remember discovering previously that other people's hoses don't necessarily cross over each other (but their set-ups still work the same as mine).


Quote:
Originally Posted by Tofudebeest View Post
I had no idle issues, nor black smoke (just the familair white/gray at start-up, virtually nothing once warm, but my IP gasket where the diaphragm is, is leaky. I was told to replace the diaphrams and gasket, but have not yet done so. Was I misled?
I seem to remember there is no separate gasket there and that the "diaphragm assembly" itself serves as the gasket. So if you want to stop the leak, then it could be wise to replace the diaphragm at the same time.

I guess it is difficult to tell whether it is "neatsfoot oil" or "engine oil" that is leaking out because both will be "black" from my experience. (Old neatsfoot oil turns black.)

My diaphragm housing used to have "dirty oil stains" around it at the joint but it is reasonably clean now:

Name:  8Oct08 005.jpg
Views: 36
Size:  68.0 KB

When it was "oozing" - I don't recall any problems associated with it.

So my answer is - If you want to stop the leak - Yes - Change the diaphragm (and perhaps apply some sealant to ensure you get an oil-tight seal)



By the way - There is a drainplug there to drain engine oil (that leaks into there) from the compartment on the injector-pump side of the diaphragm (as I suppose you already know).
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Old 10-07-08, 06:02 PM   #70
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lostmarbles View Post
And here's another photo that would be a good addition to this thread and my earlier reference to "sucking on a hose" to test your diaphragm:

Attachment 213419

Lostmarbles, your hose are not installed correctly according to the manual.
Attached Images
 


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Old 10-07-08, 07:12 PM   #71
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Lostmarbles, your hose are not installed correctly according to the manual.
Mine is a 2977cc B engine rather than a 3431cc 3B engine.

Looks like they moved the positions of the "venturi" and "reference" connections on your engine's intake manifold so your hoses don't need to cross over each other.



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Name's really Tom & I have a 1979 BJ40 that is RHD and mainly "original" with Toyota PTO winch, 16" split rims, drums all round, B engine, H41 transmission and 12V electrics that I've owned since 1981

A hood is really a bonnet. A fender is really a guard. A windshield is really a windscreen. A zerk is really a nipple. A trunk is really a boot...........
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LinkBack to this Thread: http://forum.ih8mud.com/diesel-tech-24-volts-systems/182948-3b-diaphragm-replacement.html
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