FJ to BJ mutation?

[Otterav]

Hey,
Latest mod to the Mutant. Massive battery cables, 2/0 positive and negative cables, I grounded the battery negative cable to the engine. I also created a couple of extra grounds for the engine-tub and fenders. My voltage at the instrument panel was almost 2 volts lower than the battery and the engine was cranking a little slow. With the new battery cables and grounding cables, the starter spins quite a bit faster and the voltage at the instrument panel is within .3 volts of the battery. A much improved electrical system!
Ola
eric

[exmodlad]

Originally Posted by Durock

Woah ! Thanks A lot for the info Otterav !

The way rutbeer did his swap is what I had in mind. only I might have to fab some mounts ... that is, if I cant find any in a junkyard.
Thanks again for the pics and advice !

Here is a BJ60 that still has all the mounts still in place for a 3B engine......pm me for details



Best Regards

Gord

[Durock]

Here is a BJ60 that still has all the mounts still in place for a 3B engine......pm me for details

Thanks but I ended up reusing the fj's front engine mounts (relocated) and fabed a simple crossmember for the rear. completed the swap in 3 days.

[Otterav]

Hey,
Added some Alcan front springs 4" lift. I removed the Hellscreek fronts they were a little stiff, the Alcans have 2 more leaves and already feel smoother. Anybody know of a shock less stiff than the Rancho 5000.
eric

[Otterav]

Hello,
Again I have a new addition to the mutation! I acquired a power steering from Gord(exmodified), to further my mutation project. Gord was awesome shipping the stuff internationally, he went above and beyond to make sure the deal went smoothly. When UPS decided to use my parts for a wheel chock on a semi, Gord chased them like a pit bull looking for a bit of the mailman for lunch. Problem was solved nicely, all is well. I decided to mutate the mutation even more, the real estate in the left front just wouldn't lend its self to the BJ 60 steering box in the left front of the frame. Between the battery holder, fender mounting and the shock mount, I just couldnt find a satisfactory spot! Mutate the mutation, I say, I got a 4x4 mini truck box to replicate the 40 series system of steering. The problem is the mini box mounting pad is 40 degrees different than the FJ mount. Solution? Make a new mount for the box, I used 1/2" cold rolled steel and duplicated the FJ mount with a mounting pad 40 degrees different. Welded the plate with my 500 amp Miller TIG welder about 400 amps aprox to get penetration needed. Torch is a 250 amp model and got hot, tungsten eroded like crazy, 3/32" rod filled the fillets to the tune of one 3' rod filled about 1-2" of weld. Welded both sides. I think this will be strong enough. I will make mounting plates like the engine mounts shown earlier. Here are some flicks:
The original mount is in the foreground.



I will most likely drill some more hole, for giggles, and then have the mount cadmium plated when I am done.
Hola
eric

[Otterav]

Hello,
I am tossing the idea around for replacing the tappet cover. It seems like just about everyone says their cover leaks! I was thinking that since I have already chopped/modded the existing cover to include a turbo drain, relocated breather line, and a drain for the air/oil separator. Why not replace that stamped sheet metal leakfest monster with a piece of 1/4" cold rolled steel, just transfer the holes, a little welding of the bungs for the fittings, done! I think replacing the cork gasket with a more modern paper gasket and gasket sealer would yield a more oil tight system. What does everyone think? I can't think of any downsides to using the 1/4" steel. Anyone?
Hola
eric

[polarweasel]

That's some nice work, there! Nice and clean, and appears to be pretty much bombproof...

What's that mount weigh, about 100 pounds or so?

[Otterav]

Originally Posted by polarweasel

That's some nice work, there! Nice and clean, and appears to be pretty much bombproof...

What's that mount weigh, about 100 pounds or so?

Weeze,
I think it weighs about 15 lbs or so. It is like an engineer buddy told me anyone can make something big and strong, it takes an engineer to make it light and just strong enough to do the job. I agree, big and tough is easy, light and just tough enough is a little more difficult. Aircraft come to mind, being an aircraft mechanic the elegance of the structural elements are just plain neat and interesting. Sometimes I will just look and try to imagine the load paths, pretty cool! I will be doing the powersteering mod after the new radiator comes. I ordered a US Radiator Optima with the triple pass option. This should take care of my overheating issue when over 8 PSI when extended climbing on the road. Once the radiator is here I will move the rad mounts back about 1", this will allow my eBay bar and tube intercooler to fit in front of the radiator. After that I will see about installing a water/methanol mister. After that I will fab a new exhaust and install the Preluber preoiling system. Whew, lots of projects!
Hola
eric

[rutbeer]

Yeah, I have intercooling in mind as well. Not that I need it, I just want to know what difference it makes on climbs with a heavy trailer in tow.

[Otterav]

Hello again,
Well I received my rear Alcans, I installed them and have been driving for a few days now, I really like them, very smooth and compliant. On the same day my plating was done and I drove and picked the parts up here are some flicks:







Hola
eric

[Otterav]

Hello,
My book, Maximum Boost by Corky Bell arrived yesterday. I have only read a few chapters and whew, what a fantastic read! The book is orientated towards gasoline engines, but the details on turbocharger design and installation are applicable to diesels also. I was curious about the temp rise of the intake charge during the boost phase. It seems like a temp rise for a 70% efficient(average) turbocharger at 10 psi would show almost 200 degrees above ambient. If you assume a average temp of 59 deg at sea level that would be a inlet temp of almost 260 degrees! I am sure an intercooler would help lower this to a more acceptable level. I have a 18"w x 12"h x 3"t aluminum bar and tube intercooler that I will be installing when my new radiator arrives.

[Otterav]

Hello,
After reading the Corky Bell book, I decided to plumb my turbo for water cooling. It seems Mr Bell was saying that watercooling all but eliminated the coking problems that earlier turbo charging systems were experiencing. I was really quite simple, a few fitting from my local hose shop, a few feet of hose and BAM, water cooled turbo! A few flicks:








Hola
eric

[Otterav]

Hello,
Latest addition to the mutation. I won this turbo diaper on eBay, $55.00. I installed it, quick job, went out and drove around, when I returned I could hold my hand on the outside of the diaper. This should lower my underhood temps and keep the turbo at operating temp, for quick boost.
Here are some flicks of the installed diaper:




Hola
eric

[Fast Eddy]

Originally Posted by Otterav

Hello,
Latest addition to the mutation. I won this turbo diaper on eBay, $55.00. I installed it, quick job, went out and drove around, when I returned I could hold my hand on the outside of the diaper. This should lower my underhood temps and keep the turbo at operating temp, for quick boost.
Here are some flicks of the installed diaper:

eric

Still running mega-boost?

[Fast Eddy]

[Otterav]

Ed,
YUP! I have been monitoring pretty closely the actual boost numbers now that the setup will still pump 18-20 psi. I find that most of the time I run between 8-10psi when driving in the hills, 10-15 psi when under hard acceleration, like freeway entry, and 18-20 psi only when experimenting to see how quick the engine gets to max boost(almost never).
Hola
eric

[Otterav]

Hello,
I finally got my TinyTach and installed it today. Pretty cool little unit, about 1.2" tall and 2.0" wide. Transducer fits my newly cad plated injector line like a charm! Got it all wired up and went out for a drive, nice, below 1000RPM, readout shows RPM to the rev, above 1000RPM the tach shows RPMs to the nearest 10 RPMs. It has timers and max RPM developed in the menu. I will post a flick tomorrow when it's lighter and the camera will autofocus. Oh yea, the readout has an internal backlight, its a soft green, nice!
I was most curious as to how the boost vs RPMs would chart out. At 1000RPMs the boost is 5psi, At 1400PSI-10psi, 1900RPM-15psi, and 2300-18+psi. All of these readings were with the throttle wide open and an uphill load on the engine. I also found out that the fastest I spin the motor is 2800RPMs. I will post freeway numbers when I get to a freeway. I think this turbo setup is vindicated, I am totally happy and/or satisfied!
Hola
eric

[Otterav]

Hello,
Here is a flick of the TinyTach tachometer I installed. I have the hand throttle set to idle up for the warm up.

Hola
eric

[Otterav]

Hello,
I was at SnT for Saturdays festivities, my buddy took a 15 second clip of the mutant cruising a sand dune, enjoy all 15 seconds!
Video of Sand Mutant - Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting
Hola
eric

[polarweasel]

Oh, that sounds nice! Congratulations!

[Otterav]

Hello,
Went to Hollister SVRA today, wanted to hit a few mud boggs! Did the dry thing, wanted to do the wet thing, traction was perfect! Mud holes were muddy, what more could you ask for? here are a couple of flicks:


I also had the new lowrance 540C Baja installed, still waiting for the mapping software then I will have TOPOs and all the trick stuff for the unit. This GPS is very sophisticated/capable and just the ticket for off road exploring!
Hola
eric

[Otterav]

Hey,
'nuther flick in the mud bowl, Hollister Hills SVRA:

Didn't think you could get so much mud in so many different places!
Hola
eric

[Otterav]

Hello,
I just returned from Honolulu, a friend of mine sent me an e-mail with a link Vancouver craigslist. It was for a BJ60 parts for sale, specifically a H55 trans. Called him and made a deal, hopped a flight to HNL and hooked up with the seller(Matt). He told me he was going to have to scrap the truck(Leroy) due to a spun main bearing(and a pretty impressive collection of rust) I got the tranny dropped the next day and all the parts packed onto a pallet and over to the freight forwarder. He let me pull all the misc parts I wanted, I got the front driveshaft, alternator, starter, EDIC motor, relays, powersteering pump. I also got the crossmember and lots of hardware. The parts are going to be on a slow boat from Hawaii. I will post a flick of the treasure when it arrives!
Hola
eric

[Otterav]

Hey,
I got a full float rear end from Cruiserpartsnet, price was very competitive. Here is a flick:

I fabbed a mount to get the Lowrance 540C mounted in a good viewing area, sucker is big an location is an issue, if mounted too high a good chunk ov fwd visibility is lost. Here is my version:


If you look closely on one of the flicks, you can see the cabling running in front of the defroster vent. I used a couple of 1/2" wiring clamps to secure it in place. I have used the unit off road and can say it is more stable than I am!
Hola
eric

[Otterav]

Hello,
Latest install was the full floating axle rear end. Swiped the rear diff from the BJ42, stuck the Detroit into that. Was kinda fun, set it up like the FSM said, couldnt find red lead, so I used Prussian Blue for the tooth contact pattern. Took about 2 hours, checking and rotating and checking some more. Went out for a drive, kinda wild, when you add power sucker wants to go straight, gonna have to drive it a bunch to get the feel for the locker in the rear.

[Otterav]

Hello,
Wanted to try the Detroit out, took it up into the hills, went off the side of the road and tried to climb a bank I normally couldn't get 1/2 way up. I was over the top and exactly where I did not want to be, shit! Detroit lockers rule!
Hola
eric

[Otterav]

Hey,
I just changed the URL links to IMG links and the flicks appear, no clicky required(thanks Fast Eddy!)
Hola
eric

[Otterav]

Hey,
I got the FF rear installed, wanted to post a few flicks with my newfound skillz:



Sticker collection, note new badge:


FF from the side:


Hola
eric

[Otterav]

Hello,
Here is a short review of my bumper build. All materials were .250 thickness, with the exception of the winch mounting tabs, they are .500 angle iron. All welding was done with a Miller 175 MIG using 25%argon/75% CO2. Most of the cutting was with a Thermal Dynamics Plasma cutter.




I cut a wedge of steel out of the ends and beveled the edges, then rewelded with the MIG.








Inspector Odie, nose and tail!



eric