My 2F to 1HZ-T swap thread

[rutbeer]

What gauge pod is that on your dash?

[lshobie]

Your fan clutch? I have a fixed fan if you want to try to see if it works better. It has the fan and the mount, I replaced it withy a new fan clutch for water crossing.

[kevinmrowland]

Originally Posted by rutbeer

What gauge pod is that on your dash?

The cover is from a 70 series, would have originally had an altimeter and in/out temperature display. I just cut out a piece of black plastic to mount the VDOs.
The pods from 4-runners do not come in a grey that matches the 60 dash, (brown, red and blue I think) I have another 70 pod that I put the guts from a 4-runner in (alitmeter/inclinometer) that was originally in this spot, I am hoping to mount it next to the new one as long as it doesn't look too weird.

[kevinmrowland]

Originally Posted by lshobie

Your fan clutch? I have a fixed fan if you want to try to see if it works better. It has the fan and the mount, I replaced it withy a new fan clutch for water crossing.

Hummmm, is there any way to test this? (other than putting another one on and seeing if it helps?

I am cobbling together enough of an exhaust to at least hook up the VDO pyro at the moment so I can get an actual numerical read on the temp.
However since I squeezed more coolant in it has been fine on a few trips around the block (no hills, not very fast, not much of a test)

The fuel cut definitely will not reopen when it gets hot. Is there any way to pull it without pulling the entire compensator?


Any of you guys recognize this pyro? It was on the motor, would be nice to hook it to something.

[kevinmrowland]

Originally Posted by kevinmrowland

The fuel cut definitely will not reopen when it gets hot. Is there any way to pull it without pulling the entire compensator?

Gota love Toyota, they made is so you could JUST unscrew the solenoid. I am thinking that the 24v solenoid is the culprit.
When it is hot it will respond to over 14v (reasonable for a 24v item)
Anybody have a 12v fuel solenoid (available FAST)?

I am off to post in the diesel parts section.

[lshobie]

If you want a 12V then you will need to contact ENS Industrial in Sask. They will ship it the same day express - faster than anyone else I find.

[VTCruiser]

Originally Posted by kevinmrowland

Gota love Toyota, they made is so you could JUST unscrew the solenoid. I am thinking that the 24v solenoid is the culprit.
When it is hot it will respond to over 14v (reasonable for a 24v item)
Anybody have a 12v fuel solenoid (available FAST)?

I am off to post in the diesel parts section.

sounds like a bad solenoid. my 24v solenoid has been getting 12v to it for over two years and works perfectly. ENS will be able to help you and a 12v should be availble as ishobie mentioned.

[kevinmrowland]

Sounds like I will be calling them first thing in the morning, overnight from Canada is gona hurt

VT, I though you were running a 24v setup, my bad.



On another note, I have been getting braver on my runs around town, went out a bit further last time. Took it up to 65 and pushed on the acceleration a bit, no overheating problems yet.
Boost reads max at 11.75psi, bit higher than I thought I wanted, but I am leaving it be for now.
EGTs did not go past 450, but then my exhaust is only 12" long.

I will have to say she feels A lOT stronger than the ol 2F. I still have not put the pedal to the floor yet, pulling away at 65 the pedal is only about 1" depressed, that means there is a whole 3 other inches I haven't tried yet.

I think I may be wishing I did not put the 4.11 gears in, 1st is pretty much useless at this point, 2nd pulls from a dead stop just fine, but that is how a truck is supposed to run!

Sounds like a jet engine coming down the street.

[esh]

Kevin- if the cooling situation is still ongoing, see pimp's comment in this post

http://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/25649-flushing-rad.html

[esh]

Originally Posted by kevinmrowland

I think I may be wishing I did not put the 4.11 gears in, 1st is pretty much useless at this point, 2nd pulls from a dead stop just fine, but that is how a truck is supposed to run!

Wait and see how you feel when you get on a few steep offroad climb/descents.

I've found having a useless 1st gear in high range can come in handy, especially with a diesel. I've driven/ridden in my friend's 3B/H55 BJ75 pu and BJ70, and Luke Porter's HJ61 (12H-T) and like the H55f's 1st in all of them, all 4.11.. largest tires were 33s on Luke's. That BJ70 just got a lift and he's looking at 35/36s. 1st was useless on road for them all.

The '79 40 only has 3 useful road gears and that space between 3rd and 4th is painful on the road (SM420/2F/4.56) but rocked the lower crushers trail out here with just the 4spd case. OTOH the BJ42 is keeping it's stock H42 and getting a low end boost from a split-case 4.7 toybox.

At worst, it's no huge ordeal to swap out diff gears.

[Dougal]

Originally Posted by kevinmrowland

Any of you guys recognize this pyro? It was on the motor, would be nice to hook it to something.

That socket is for a standard K type.
Any K type thermocouple reader will work fine on it, almost all EGT gauges too. But you'll need a K type thermocouple extension cable, if you try to extend it with normal wires then it'll distort the reading, especially in an area with temp fluctuations like in the engine bay.

[archtimb]

Originally Posted by kevinmrowland

I think I may be wishing I did not put the 4.11 gears in, 1st is pretty much useless at this point, 2nd pulls from a dead stop just fine, but that is how a truck is supposed to run!

Hell, come Fall we can just swap again! Then I won't need rubber overdrive. Well that will work for me...not you!

Mitch/Dad

[rutbeer]

Originally Posted by kevinmrowland

The cover is from a 70 series, would have originally had an altimeter and in/out temperature display. I just cut out a piece of black plastic to mount the VDOs.
The pods from 4-runners do not come in a grey that matches the 60 dash, (brown, red and blue I think) I have another 70 pod that I put the guts from a 4-runner in (alitmeter/inclinometer) that was originally in this spot, I am hoping to mount it next to the new one as long as it doesn't look too weird.

I looked for a 4-runner pod this weekend in the local junk yard....even went to Toyota to price an FJ cruiser one. I want to see if one of those will fit on a 40 dash, then splice in the boost, pyro, and tach gauges I have. The depth on the FJ cruiser one is about right, but I haven't looked at a 70 series or 4 runner one to see if they would look right on a 40 dash.

Sweet install on your motor....you did that in a tenth of the time I did.

[kevinmrowland]

Ken, Cooing seems to be under control, I have a flush port on the top heater hose, I plan to flush and fill with Toyota red before we hit the road.

Pops, I figure if it is a problem I can just give you back your 4.11s and I'll put 3.73s from one of the other 60s back in. But I figure that if the speedo reads right, then it must be how toyota wanted it. The 4.11s are staying in for now, It feels more like it did with 31s on, but with a diesel, and a turbo, well, ok nothing like it did.

Dougal, thanks for the tip, K type huh? I will have to do some googling. What makes it a K type? the images of the "k type" look just like the "thermocouple" I have on the VDO but the resistance of the sensor is very different between the two.

rutbeer, I have the second 70 series pod coming from G&S, they might have more, if not then ebay seems to have them pretty regularly. I did have to do a good bit of modification to get it to sit on the dash (modification in this case means a belt sander)

[VTCruiser]

Originally Posted by kevinmrowland

VT, I though you were running a 24v setup, my bad.

i am, but my solenoid gets 12v through a manual toggle.

[pismo62]

Great thread. Thanks for posting up all the info and picts. Drool

[kevinmrowland]

expensive little bugger at $181.99

[archtimb]

Wait and see where your RPM's are at actual 65 mph (GPS). I'm now about 2700 with the H55, 31's & 4.56's. Just gonna need to go to 32's or 33's...

Actually, right NOW, it's not spinnin' nothin'! I got work to do...

Pop

[lshobie]

181 - be glad you can just get that part so easily!

[kevinmrowland]

Originally Posted by lshobie

181 - be glad you can just get that part so easily!

Yup, that was a big part of the decision to go with the 1HZ, parts are at least somewhat available.

Oh, and thanks for the tip on the tinytach, I went ahead and ordered one, I still plan on using a translator for the OE tach, but the system for the tinytach is so simple, at the very least it will make calibrating the translator that much easier.

[lshobie]

Ya, if your system is 12V then you can get everything here.

I recommmend using the tiny tach transducer , you just bolt this tiny sendoe around 1 injection line - it's dummy proof. Make sure you ordered the diesel type, and the hole size in the transducer is 4.3mm - dont let them sell you a 5mm - I had to send 3 back to them - finally got it right the last time.

[kevinmrowland]

I called and ordered a diesel specific tinytach, originally they tried to tell me it was a 5mm, I went out to the shop and put calipers on the line, the nice fellow on the phone translated the measurement over to a 4.5mm, said he did not have a 4.3. Am I screwed?

[lshobie]

No, you arent screwed, they just sent me one that was 4.3mm's, talk to the old guy there - he knows what he is talking about - I forget his name. Remind him that he talked to me about my japanese diesel engine and the 4.3mm trans thingy.

[kevinmrowland]

I think it was the old guy I talked to, he was nice and seemed to know his stuff.



Got a box from G&S today containing the goods for AC, spent the evening getting it all hooked in (appointment in the morn to charge it up, so no choice)
I had to rebuild the air intake tube to clear the AC pump,
The lines actually ended up working out:
Firewall to dryer, 60 hose
Dryer to condenser, 60 hose
Condenser to pump, 62 hose (took some coaxing)
Pump to firewall, 62 hose. This one was the bitch. The 3FE pump sits low, just like the 2F, the line therefore exits the pump at an upward angle, the hood closes with it in that position, but kinks the hose a bit.
I was not going to take no for an answer so, on the advice of my hotrod friend, I wrapped the aluminum part of the hose very tightly with wire and attempted to bend it, I soon found that the hoses are WAY tougher than they look, I ended up having to use a bench top pin bender to slowly work the bend out of the hose. It does not look pretty but it goes right over the intake tube and does not even touch the hood liner. Now lets hope it all holds pressure.

[archtimb]

Good luck! Looks great.

Pop

[rutbeer]

Ya, still have to do that on mine. I have the underdash a/c hooked up, but need to run the lines. I'm guessing I will have similar issues, but not so tight on the hood clearance.

Yours looks good.

[BlueHZT60]

$39 DBL probe, remote BBQ thermometer & some silicone tape will help chase down exactly where the heat is being generated. Plus, afterward you can use it for manifold cooking