My 2F to 1HZ-T swap thread

[overhanger]

Oh my, where to start.....I give chit to people who put 60 series front fenders on their 62s........
Per usual Kevin, you aren't looking to take the easy way out. Didn't your old man teach you better? Well, he did teach you stubborn that's for sure! Can't wait to see the running product in Sierra Vista really soon. Keep at it and good luck, Savant, but know now that you are the eternal tail gunner.
By the way, remind me to tell you the story of my 3FE friend who just won four auctions in the same week for Frito-Lay bread trucks with 4BT Cummins in them, when we are sitting around the campfire. Wait, campfire and AZ in July - is that possible?

[kevinmrowland]

All this chit-chat better not get my thread moved out of the tech section.

Thanks Steve, I think.

[archtimb]

What?! We have'nt even brought up beer yet!

Get busy!

Dad

[kevinmrowland]

Ok, ok, so I got some work done today. MORE WIRING! For such an electrically simple swap, there sure is a hell of a lot of wiring.

If my power steering line would hurry up and get here I think I could try and start this thing.

Got the pieces of the air cleaner/intake together today:
3 inch mandrel bent exhaust pipe (summit racing)
Silicone reducers to go from 3" to the Cruiser 2.75" (silicone intakes dot com)
T bolts from the same place.

I used the lower half of the can from a 3FE and the top from a BJ70. This combo seemed to get things pointed in the right direction.

[kevinmrowland]

The upper and lower rad hoses for the 1HZ are almost a perfect fit on the 2F radiator.

[kevinmrowland]

Cobbled together fittings so that the turbo has its oil line, the OE electric pressure sender is hooked up, and I ran a braided stainless line for the VDO mechanical pressure gauge.

This was a bit of a bitch finding fittings that would work. The Toyota thread for these is 10mm x 1.0, same as brake fittings. Mine go back and forth between 10mm, 1/8npt and various -AN sizes.

[rutbeer]

Don't suppose you can measure the diameter of your air can for me? I have a BJ40 can and the bottom works out great, but the top intake is much longer than the one you have, and I can't stand the way my hose worked out.....even if it is only temporary.

[kevinmrowland]

11-13/16ths" The 3FE and the 70 series cans are the same size. Knowing Toyota, I would bet than any air can that looks like it is the same size, probably is.
For this application an air can lid from a 1HD-T would be better because it has the vent elbow for the rocker box vent and the output makes a 90 bend right down toward the turbo.

[roscoFJ73]

Originally Posted by kevinmrowland

11-13/16ths" The 3FE and the 70 series cans are the same size. Knowing Toyota, I would bet than any air can that looks like it is the same size, probably is.
For this application an air can lid from a 1HD-T would be better because it has the vent elbow for the rocker box vent and the output makes a 90 bend right down toward the turbo.

Is that a standard 60 series air filter box? My 61 had the box sitting about 2 inches off the fender but yours is close like a 70 series??
Some 70 get their air from next to the rad like mine,but they are all the same size lid and take the same filter, and 80 series too
Except the new 70 series ,they have a square plastic box.
My 3F box below

[kevinmrowland]

Originally Posted by roscoFJ73

Is that a standard 60 series air filter box? My 61 had the box sitting about 2 inches off the fender but yours is close like a 70 series??

I cut the brackets off and mounted it close to the fender. It did not have enough room to make the bend down to the turbo otherwise.

[kevinmrowland]

It runs!

[Rob Faucett]

Yahoo! This is world record top shelf stuff! Is anything better posted anywhere on MUD? ROTW-M-Y for sure.

[roscoFJ73]

Originally Posted by kevinmrowland

It runs!

Good show.How does it sound. You dont have the t/case on yet?

[kevinmrowland]

3 weeks and six days since the crate was dropped off on the shop floor. still a few things to button up, but it runs. I got a call from the machinist yesterday, he had no trouble milling the gear, I owe him $30. So I should be able to get the transfer in and drive it soon.

I finally got the PS hose I have been waiting on, and very slowly and carefully went through the steps to start it up, put diesel in the tank for the first time, bleed the filter out, filled the power steering, filled the oil, checked that the air cleaner was buttoned up. Then my plan was to go real slow, not make any stupid mistakes, bump the starter a few times to build oil pressure, then glow the motor for a few seconds, crack the injector lines to bleed the air out, THEN, turn the key to start it. Instead, I turned the key to bump the starter and rather than turning over it just went, bump, rumble,rumble,rumble. The motor just started without even turning over. I then panicked, shouted, NO!NO! it wasn't supposed to start yet! and immediately stumbled for the key to turn it off. After a few seconds I just sat there and started laughing.

I started it again, the oil pressure shot right up, let the motor get to operating temp and left it run for awhile, no leaks, no weird noises, sounds great, surprisingly quite. At idle there is a very strong flow of air through the radiator.
I tried the tachs from the 60 and from a 62, no luck, no reaction at all.
Revved the motor a few times to hear the turbo whine, shut it down, stared at it for awhile and went home for the night.
Holiday today, and what are holidays for other than working on cruisers?

[Tapage]

Originally Posted by kevinmrowland

and I ran a braided stainless line for the VDO mechanical pressure gauge

you can post a pic to show how you attached the braided line to the VDO gauge .. ( I try it but can't and finish with a copper line )

[roscoFJ73]

Great news I can assure you will never tire of that 1HZ rumble each morning

[hks3sgte]

Ahhh!!! The smell of diesel!

[kevinmrowland]

Ahh, all the pidly shit is killing me, but its still really fun at the same time.
I actually have a bunch of projects going on the truck right now, spent most of the day trying to wrap some of that stuff up.

The starter was acting like it had bad contacts but it was actually the magnetic switch line drawing a lot more power than the 2F starter did. I had run the switch line from the passenger side where it was originally, across the firewall and down to the new starter. That long of a run was to much for the OE wiring to handle. I ended up pulling the starter wire back through the harness, heat shrunk it and ran it right out the fire wall (through the old throttle linkage grommet) and directly to the starter. jumps right to life now.

[kevinmrowland]

Originally Posted by Tapage

you can post a pic to show how you attached the braided line to the VDO gauge .. ( I try it but can't and finish with a copper line )

The nipple on the back of the VDO is 1/8"NPT I used an AN-3 stainless line and got a AN-NPT adapter.

This is the adapter I used, you can get an elbow one as well if space is tight, but they cost three times as much for some reason.
https://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stor...y=OrderItemAdd

And the line:
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

And Summit sells this as a kit:
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

I can snap a pic for you tomorrow.

[Tapage]

Originally Posted by kevinmrowland

And Summit sells this as a kit:
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

I can snap a pic for you tomorrow.

Dude .. really thanks .. I got the link !

P.S. I never found it in summit .. my bad.

[kevinmrowland]

Originally Posted by Tapage

Dude .. really thanks .. I got the link !

P.S. I never found it in summit .. my bad.

Summit is weird, you can type in exactly what you are looking for an it wont come up. I find it is better to just call them. Hope it works for ya

[kevinmrowland]

Got the transfer input gear back from the machinist, looks great, fits even better, I owe him $30.

[esh]

Great job, Kevin!

Hey I spotted a tach from an HJ cluster in the Metal Tech cave. I think it was a 24V truck though? You could give Mark a call and ask if you think that would do any good. Not sure how the diesel tachs connect.

ROTW for sure, only if the hot custom rack stays on it though! :P

See you in a couple weeks!

[lshobie]

I use a diesel tiny tach - they work great and yuou can stick them anywhere, very easy install.

[kevinmrowland]

Thanks Ken and Louis.
The HJ tach has been proven not to work by VTCruiser, The main reason to be concerned with the tach is to get the AC amp the coil signal it needs. (new info may suggest this is not the case)


Put the transfer case in this morning and took it for a spin. Went down the road great, decided to drive to the gas station and fill er up with diesel for the first time. The temp gauge read dangerously hot within the mile it took to get to the station.
I used the sender and OE gauge from the 2F, I was under the impression that the HZ ran at a lower temp than the 2F so the gauge should be calibrated to run in the "normal" range. Even if it was not, there was WAY to much fluctuation between where it sat at idle (middle) and when it got hot (just under the red, VERY scary)

The other thing, is the injection pump supposed to get hot to the touch? Once I got to the station (very slowly) I let it idle till the temp was back to normal, shut it down, filled it up and then it didn't want to start.
The fuel cut solenoid would not click but had power, I let the engine sit and cool for a long time (and poured some cool water on the pump) and then the solenoid would click again, started right back up. Does the fuel cut solenoid have some kind of heat sensor on it that would make it not work?

I am hopping that the cooling problem just has to do with air pockets in the system since it was all drained for the swap. But I let it warm up and cool off, running the heater repeatedly at the shop with no problem.

So she runs and drives, but not quite right yet

[lshobie]

You shold be using aftermarket guages for your truck now, ie. pyro, water temp, oil pressure etc. also, the tiny tach is very simple, just wrap it around one of the injector lines and you see your rpm - use a 4.3 mm transducer.

Not sure w