My 2F to 1HZ-T swap thread

[kevinmrowland]

Originally Posted by roscoFJ73

Are you using the vacuum fast idle for the aircon?

Don't have one.
Think I'll need it?
I have the VSV from the 2F, but no place to hook it to on the new motor.

[cruiser_guy]

You don't need to worry about increasing the idle speed on the diesel. The A/C in the 3B hardly affects idle at all.

[roscoFJ73]

Originally Posted by kevinmrowland

Don't have one.
Think I'll need it?
I have the VSV from the 2F, but no place to hook it to on the new motor.

VSV?? Vacuum solenoid valve??. I plugged that green thingy into a t/piece off the vac pump for its vacuum. It used to be plugged into the manifold.
If you dont need it why bother

[kevinmrowland]

Yup, I am not going to worry about engine RPMs and their relationship to the AC pump. (i hope)


Made some more progress today, played around with the engine placement.
I bolted the transmission to the crossmember and moved the front around till things looked good.
My main concern is obviously having enough clearance for everything, but particularly getting the fan to line up nicely with the radiator.

By removing the PS cooling lines I found that I could lower the radiator an inch by just drilling new holes for the mounts (the top mounts actually already have two holes in the perfect spot) Lowering the rad, combined with tipping the front of the motor up a bit gives enough room between the fan blade tips and the lower rad outlet so than I can pass my hand through. Very promising.


The sideline concern then is obviously, what to do with the PS cooling line. I could probably move it down or back, remove the line altogether or plumb it into a little trany cooler.
How important do you guys think that short run of metal tubing that is almost entirely isolated from good air flow and right underneath the very hot lower rad tank is to cooling the PS fluid?
Would an aux trany cooler keep the PS fluid toooo cool? If such a thing can happen? I know when it gets cool it has a harder time moving, hence the winter time groaning.

*EDIT* Did some forum searching, it appears that the trany cooler as PS cooler mod is old news, I am definitely going to bypass the original metal lines and run a small radiator type aux. cooler. This will clean the PS system up nicely as well, I like it

[kevinmrowland]

The other interesting thing from today was what I found when I cut the 2F motor mounts off.

I cut the top of the passenger side mount, then got the cutting the back edge and as I finished the cut the mount fell off, ".....strange I thought: the mounts must be only welded on the two sides."
It wasn't till later that I went to grind the welds down that I realized that all three sides were supposed to be welded, but whoever put the weld on the front edge completely missed the target. The mount has been hanging on by two edges for the last 22 years and has subsequently cracked the small part of the frame it was welded to.
Glad I found that, I guess this makes the whole swap worthwhile, right?

[kevinmrowland]

The one unacceptable thing that I found today is the fact the the exhaust now dumps directly on the fuel and brake line frame terminations. I think I will cut them all back just in front of the transfer case, run soft lines under the transmission hump and up to the firewall for the fuel filter and a long stainless brake line for the rear brakes. For the front brake I think I will run a stainless line from the frame to the axle on the drivers side, instead of on the passenger side.
I do not want the exhaust anywhere near that close to those fluid lines.

[roscoFJ73]

Its moving along nicely
The RHD 75 series have all lines from the MC right next to the exhaust
The brake lines have a shield and the rubber fuel line coming from the transmission hump has another larger hose over the top and wrapped in a fireproof cloth.

I can wrap my hand around the exhaust pipe after its been idling a while

The tranny cooler for the PS might be over kill. Maybe some coiled tube would do it and then you could dispense with it running under the radiator all together.

[kevinmrowland]

Thanks Rosco, and thanks for the pic.
I will snap a pic of my exhaust tomorrow, picture yours, but then picture a large 1HDT turbo housing and exhaust flange pointing right at those lines. It gets tight quick.

Good idea with the coiled tubing, maybe I got carried away with the cooler, but it would still be very clean that way.

[CaliCruiser]

Man this is awesome! Keep up the good work Kevin.

Dylan

[Gus]

Nice work Kevin, that rig has really come a long way over the years.

[kevinmrowland]

Hahaa, thanks Gus, you know how this old rig started out, not much of those days left in her now.

Not a very big day today (back to work) got a bunch of parts ordered, already on the way are the Racor, clutch slave, new transfer gaskets, oil and air filters.
On the way this week are some "J Bends" 2.5" for the exhaust and 3" for a custom air intake tube. Silicone connections for the intake (plain jane black, this is not THAT kind of JDM) Long braided clutch and brake lines with metric adapters, I went ahead and ordered a tiny little fluid cooler, VDO boost pyro and oil gauges, a handful of other bits to make it all work. They should all be here this week, ready for another big weekend.

[DanS HJ-45]

That looks awesome Kevin.

Having gone down this road myself, I can tell you how awesome it will be when it runs--and it will run better than you think.

It's all those details (the brake lines, the PS lines) that take all your time and money, but they are also what keep it a pleasurable vehicle when it's done.

If I had a TiVo (or this was on TV), this thread would be on my list! I'm waiting for next weekend now

Dan

[Tapage]

I cut and remove my old PS lines in front of my 60 and add a PS cooler ( ya the same sh** like a tranny cooler ) and it's perfect from now ..

[kevinmrowland]

Slow day today, played with motor placement a bit more, lowered the radiator mounts and planned the shroud mods.

I found that if you clamp a support between and underneath the frame rails the motor oil pan rests on it and is held at just the right height (the trany is held in the right position by the OEM mounts) and you can scoot the motor to the left or right and get things just where you want.

Once I was sure about the motor placement I went ahead and lowered the rad.
In the top pic you can see the extra hole that I moved the top bolt to. The lower pic shows the holes for the lower mount drilled 7/8" lower,very easy and it looks like this will let the fan line up very nicely with the radiator.

[roscoFJ73]

Originally Posted by kevinmrowland

Slow day today, played with motor placement a bit more, lowered the radiator mounts and planned the shroud mods.

I found that if you clamp a support between and underneath the frame rails the motor oil pan rests on it and is held at just the right height (the trany is held in the right position by the OEM mounts) and you can scoot the motor to the left or right and get things just where you want.

Once I was sure about the motor placement I went ahead and lowered the rad.
In the top pic you can see the extra hole that I moved the top bolt to. The lower pic shows the holes for the lower mount drilled 7/8" lower,very easy and it looks like this will let the fan line up very nicely with the radiator.

Dont forget to check the diff clearance and make sure the bonnet will close
You can also check the centrality of the gear stick through the hole in the floor.

There is also some sideways adjustment on the gearbox mount which has elongated holes on the crossmember(well the 70 series do).

Is there any scope for a taller radiator if needed as the 1HZ radiator in a 70 has a 1 inch extension on the lower tank compared to a 3F rad?

How long before a start up?
I nearly shit myself when my rebuilt 1HZ started for the 1st time. Instead of a splutter and backfire, it just purred and I was so surprised

[kevinmrowland]

Originally Posted by roscoFJ73

Dont forget to check the diff clearance and make sure the bonnet will close
You can also check the centrality of the gear stick through the hole in the floor.

Check, check and check. Thanks for calling that out though, probably should have mentioned those as well. It almost looks like it was made to bolt in there.

There is also some sideways adjustment on the gearbox mount which has elongated holes on the crossmember(well the 70 series do).

The 60 has oversized holes, not really elongated, but yes that gets scooted around as well.

Is there any scope for a taller radiator if needed as the 1HZ radiator in a 70 has a 1 inch extension on the lower tank compared to a 3F rad?

There is certainly a bit more room, but with a tight shroud and the fan lined up, I hope to be drawing plenty of air. One thing I though about: the 1HZ fan in very light compared to the 2F-3F fan, which has stouter blades and little extra airfoils molded on them. Is the 1HZ a more efficient blade? Or were the changes made as a cost cutting measure? If the 2F-3F blades perform better, it looks like they would swap right across.

How long before a start up?
I nearly shit myself when my rebuilt 1HZ started for the 1st time. Instead of a splutter and backfire, it just purred and I was so surprised

[archtimb]

Originally Posted by roscoFJ73

Dont forget to check the diff clearance and make sure the bonnet will close
You can also check the centrality of the gear stick through the hole in the floor.

There is also some sideways adjustment on the gearbox mount which has elongated holes on the crossmember(well the 70 series do).

Is there any scope for a taller radiator if needed as the 1HZ radiator in a 70 has a 1 inch extension on the lower tank compared to a 3F rad?

How long before a start up?
I nearly shit myself when my rebuilt 1HZ started for the 1st time. Instead of a splutter and backfire, it just purred and I was so surprised

Don't worry about that bonnet. We will be fabbing up a old Chevy style hood scoop for it next weekend. Probably make it out of wood...

Mitch

[kevinmrowland]

Originally Posted by archtimb

Don't worry about that bonnet. We will be fabbing up a old Chevy style hood scoop for it next weekend. Probably make it out of wood...

Mitch

Uh, we'll try that on your hood first, yup.

[roscoFJ73]

Originally Posted by kevinmrowland

There is certainly a bit more room, but with a tight shroud and the fan lined up, I hope to be drawing plenty of air. One thing I though about: the 1HZ fan in very light compared to the 2F-3F fan, which has stouter blades and little extra airfoils molded on them. Is the 1HZ a more efficient blade? Or were the changes made as a cost cutting measure? If the 2F-3F blades perform better, it looks like they would swap right across.

I remember thinking how beefy some of the bolt on 3F parts were compared to the 1HZ ,so yeah cost cutting is probably the answer.
But I also remember the 3F,1HZ and 2H all had a different blade pitch and depth with the 2H being the shallowest(memory fade).
I think it may have something to do with engine length.
Someone told me the fan has to match the clutch,which is why fan clutches are engine specific. I guess its to do with rpms etc.

Here is a pic of the difference between a 70 series 3F and 1HZ with their respective metal and plastic shrouds.
The 3F fan sits right up in the corner compared to the 1HZ which is more central.
The 1HZ radiator was a perfect bolt up allowing for some badly predrilled holes

[kevinmrowland]

Good point about the fan clutch matching the fan, makes sense. I am trying to do things right with the fan that is on there, we will see how it works.

Thanks for the pics, but one important note is that both those rads are for a 70 series, the 60 series are different proportions (more rectangular) Much more of the fins are covered by the fan with the 2F than with your 70series 3F. The 2F fan protrudes above the top, left of the rad and the 1H fan wants to protrude out the bottom right, hence the outlet interference. With careful placement I have the 1HZ fan protruding out the bottom a little bit, but mostly centered on the rad.

[BlueHZT60]

Originally Posted by kevinmrowland

Good point about the fan clutch matching the fan, makes sense. I am trying to do things right with the fan that is on there, we will see how it works.

Thanks for the pics, but one important note is that both those rads are for a 70 series, the 60 series are different proportions (more rectangular) Much more of the fins are covered by the fan with the 2F than with your 70series 3F. The 2F fan protrudes above the top, left of the rad and the 1H fan wants to protrude out the bottom right, hence the outlet interference. With careful placement I have the 1HZ fan protruding out the bottom a little bit, but mostly centered on the rad.

Good job, you will appreciate the effort on the back side when you are ready to turn the key and go play with the HZ-60.

The HZ clutch fan is beefier than the 2f, plus the bolt pattern is just ever so slightly different. Now make sure the fan & hoses (that you will be fabbing together for the power steering) don't interfere with the other side of the fan blade - it's close enough that it warrants looking. I'd also consider splitting the fan shroud into two pieces - makes for much easier removal later withouth scraping knuckles, dinging the radiator and/or poking holes. Bob

[kevinmrowland]

I recommend the split fan shroud for all 60s, diesel or not, that has made my life much easier over the years.

Got the fan shroud cut, chopped, widened, sectioned and extended tonight, fits great, I think it will pay off in the end.
It was late and I was late for dinner, so no pics, I promise some for tomorrow. Lots of work in the shroud and I am sure there is more than one way to skin that cat, but it is worth posting my solution.

More tomorrow, looking forward to the weekend!

[kevinmrowland]

Little bit more today, getting ready for the weekend.
I snapped some pictures of the fan shroud from last night.

One of the guys that works at the shop with me is a hotrod/drag car guy, a wealth of advice on this stuff. He showed me how the hotroders around here make their motor mounts.
The stock mounts were not going to work out as well as I wanted so I gave the custom ones a shot, hotrod style.

What do you think? They are stronger in some ways, dubious in others, but they are certainly stronger that the OE broken one.
I think I like it, the plate without the hole spans the height of the frame and gets stitch welded in place.
Seems like a plan, but I have no idea what I am doing. Self taught welder to boot, so a little nervous.

[roscoFJ73]

Looks beefy enough to me. Dont forget you may need a tab for the diff vent to attach to,or you can hang it onto the new mount with a zip tie like I did
That shroud looks good too.
Why do NA landcruiser radiators have thE cap on the end of the tube rather than on top of the radiator?